It’s an open secret in fashion. Unsold inventory goes to the incinerator; excess handbags are slashed so they can’t be resold; perfectly usable products are sent to the landfill to avoid discounts and flash sales. The European Union wants to put an end to these unsustainable practices. On Monday, [December 4, 2023], it banned the destruction of unsold textiles and footwear.
“It is time to end the model of ‘take, make, dispose’ that is so harmful to our planet, our health and our economy,” MEP Alessandra Moretti said in a statement. “Banning the destruction of unsold textiles and footwear will contribute to a shift in the way fast fashion manufacturers produce their goods.”
This comes as part of a broader push to tighten sustainable fashion legislation, with new policies around ecodesign, greenwashing and textile waste phasing in over the next few years. The ban on destroying unsold goods will be among the longer lead times: large businesses have two years to comply, and SMEs have been granted up to six years. It’s not yet clear on whether the ban applies to companies headquartered in the EU, or any that operate there, as well as how this ban might impact regions outside of Europe.
For many, this is a welcome decision that indirectly tackles the controversial topics of overproduction and degrowth. Policymakers may not be directly telling brands to produce less, or placing limits on how many units they can make each year, but they are penalising those overproducing, which is a step in the right direction, says Eco-Age sustainability consultant Philippa Grogan. “This has been a dirty secret of the fashion industry for so long. The ban won’t end overproduction on its own, but hopefully it will compel brands to be better organised, more responsible and less greedy.”
Clarifications to come
There are some kinks to iron out, says Scott Lipinski, CEO of Fashion Council Germany and the European Fashion Alliance (EFA). The EFA is calling on the EU to clarify what it means by both “unsold goods” and “destruction”. Unsold goods, to the EFA, mean they are fit for consumption or sale (excluding counterfeits, samples or prototypes)...
The question of what happens to these unsold goods if they are not destroyed is yet to be answered. “Will they be shipped around the world? Will they be reused as deadstock or shredded and downcycled? Will outlet stores have an abundance of stock to sell?” asks Grogan.
Large companies will also have to disclose how many unsold consumer products they discard each year and why, a rule the EU is hoping will curb overproduction and destruction...
Could this shift supply chains?
For Dio Kurazawa, founder of sustainable fashion consultancy The Bear Scouts, this is an opportunity for brands to increase supply chain agility and wean themselves off the wholesale model so many rely on. “This is the time to get behind innovations like pre-order and on-demand manufacturing,” he says. “It’s a chance for brands to play with AI to understand the future of forecasting. Technology can help brands be more intentional with what they make, so they have less unsold goods in the first place.”
Grogan is equally optimistic about what this could mean for sustainable fashion in general. “It’s great to see that this is more ambitious than the EU’s original proposal and that it specifically calls out textiles. It demonstrates a willingness from policymakers to create a more robust system,” she says. “Banning the destruction of unsold goods might make brands rethink their production models and possibly better forecast their collections.”
One of the outstanding questions is over enforcement. Time and again, brands have used the lack of supply chain transparency in fashion as an excuse for bad behaviour. Part of the challenge with the EU’s new ban will be proving that brands are destroying unsold goods, not to mention how they’re doing it and to what extent, says Kurazawa. “Someone obviously knows what is happening and where, but will the EU?”"
-via British Vogue, December 7, 2023
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Upgrade Your Branding Game with These Latest Trends
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Femme Fatale Guide: Fall Wardrobe Essentials
Staple Tees:
**Purchase in Modal, Pima cotton, or a cotton-cashmere blend**
Fitted crewneck tees (long-sleeves/tees & tanks for layering)
Relaxed fit long-sleeve tees
Turtleneck long-sleeve top (fitted & relaxed fit options)
Contour bodysuits
Blouses/Shirting:
Silk button-down blouse
Cotton button-down blouse
Silk shell top/t-shirts/camis (for layering)
Sculpt knit top(s)
Self-tie wrap blouse
Shirred boatneck, mock neck, or cowlneck silk blouse(s)
Leather button-down
Knitwear:
Thin cashmere/wool crewneck sweater (fitted/relaxed fit)
Thin cashmere/wool turtleneck sweater
Chunky relaxed-fit cable knit sweater
Knit polo-neck sweater
Cashmere sweater vest (crewneck, v-neck, and/or turtleneck)
Mockneck cashmere/wool sweater
Cashmere long-sleeve sweater dress
Cashmere/knit skirt (mini, midi, or maxi - depending on your personal preferences)
Sophisticated coordinating knit set (top/pants or skirt of your choice)
Casual knit set (top/pullover and relaxed fit pants)
Cashmere cardigan
Cable knit cardigan (doubles as a light jacket)
Bottoms:
Black straight-leg jeans
Black bootcut/flared jeans
Black straight/bootcut trousers
Wide-leg trousers (I love a solid black, black pinstripe, and black with lace-up detail selection)
High-waisted leather pants
Split hem trousers
Stretch jersey/cashmere pants (straight-leg or flared)
Quilted leather/tweed mini skirt
Knit/wool mini and/pencil skirt
Leather skirt (mini or midi)
Silk midi skirt
Dresses/Jumpsuits:
Knit/sweater dress
Little black dress (shift dress/A-line cuts are great)
Blazer dress/jumpsuit
Slip dress (for layering)
Minimal black jumpsuit ("LBJ")
Leather and/or denim dress or jumpsuit
Jackets & Outerwear:
Black tailored blazer
Leather blazer
Tweed jacket
Trench coat
Leather moto/cropped/bomber jacket
Black wool coat
Raincoat ( I like Rains for high-quality options on the affordable side that are still built to last for several seasons)
Statement jacket/coat
Footwear:
Sleek flat/low-heel black boots with a pointed-toe or square-toe silhouette (I love Vagabond, Jeffrey Campbell, Vince Camuto, and Sam Edelman for more affordable, high-quality options)
Black loafers/sleek black flats
Black lace-up boots
Black heeled boots
Black pumps
White sneakers
Rain boots (I recommend the Melissa Shoes Welly/Grip/Step boots or a stylish, sustainable, and more affordable option)
Accessories:
White/black ankle & crew socks
Black control top tights
High-waisted shapewear shorts
Chunky/small chain necklaces & bracelets
Simple pendant necklace(s)
Pearl necklace
Simple diamond studs
Crystal drop earrings
Minimalist bangles
Stackable rings
A sleek, minimalist black tote (can fit a laptop for work/travel)
Black shoulder bag
Small black bag (top handle, crossbody, etc.)
Statement bag/evening bag
Cashmere scarf
Silk/decorative scarf
Fingerless/touch-screen friendly, lightweight gloves
Lingerie/Loungewear:
Seamless bra/underwear
Lace bra/underwear
Matching pullover cotton sweatshirt/sweatpants
Knit or jersey cotton top/lounge pants set
Luxurious pajama set (silk, Tencel, cashmere, etc.)
A to-die-for piece of lingerie like a lace slip/silk teddy
Silk or cozy robe
Cozy open-back slippers
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