On the Pi Compute IO board and Pi Zeros theres a camera connector that is 22 pins and 0.5mm pitch, whereas the classic Pi's use 15-pin 1mm pitch. what if you want to switch between the two? this lil open-source hardware doo-dad will do it. here we're testing it by connecting a Pi 3 to a 'mini spy camera' modules that would normally go right onto a Pi Zero https://www.adafruit.com/search?q=spy+camera and it works! we're going to also try it the other direction, and then order the PCBs & boards.
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Avoiding Common Mistakes When Using Brass Fasteners
Fasteners are indispensable tools in any workshop, yet they can sometimes be hard to keep track of when first starting without experience or knowing exactly which fasteners go where keeping track of these valuable fasteners may become quite the task!
Use of the wrong fastener can have serious repercussions. Therefore, avoiding common errors when working with brass fasteners is crucial.
Choose the Wrong Fastener for the Job
Fasteners are essential components in any project that involves mechanical attachment. They ensure all parts are secured in their place and provide the finished product will withstand continued use without wear and tear.
Your choice of material depends on what benefits and drawbacks it brings to the project, along with your specific application and expectations of it.
Brass is an affordable metal alloy with superior corrosion resistance that's also easy to work with and low cost.
Bronze, an alloy of tin and copper, is an excellent material choice for fasteners due to its superior corrosion resistance.
GRP is an excellent material choice for applications subject to extreme temperatures and corrosion-laden environments, including high vibration levels. Furthermore, it can be coated to protect against environmental conditions while improving its appearance and surface finish.
Don’t Use the Wrong Bit
When using brass fasteners, selecting the proper bit is of utmost importance. Choosing one that won't strip or cause other issues can save time and prevent frustration; ensure it fits safely!
Brass is a soft metal that must be handled carefully to avoid stripping. Drill pilot holes before driving it precisely.
Be mindful of what type of fastener you are using - brass nuts come with both coarse and fine thread options to meet any need, while coarse threading provides stronger hold while finer threads allow for greater precision with your finished results.
Consideration should also be given to the size of brass nuts you use; smaller nuts tend to work best for connecting small plates together, while heavier nuts provide added support or stability for more oversized items or provide added security. Doing this will ensure your bolt fits securely with its target material.
Don’t Forget to Countersink
Brass screws can be soft and easily snap off without proper pilot holes, so it's vital to countersink them to make them more stable and prevent potential breakages that could otherwise cause irreparable harm to your project. This also reduces their likelihood of breaking, potentially saving much time when installing them!
Countersinking screws is done through several means, the most popular being drilling conical holes that will fit over their heads. A countersink drill bit or unique tool should be used for this process.
Selecting an appropriate drill bit for any job can be essential. A bit that matches the size of the screw should be used to avoid over drilling it.
Select the perfect countersink bit for your needs and project from among the many available styles available on the market today. Some may feature single or multiple flutes, while others provide access to various chamfer angles.
Don’t Overdrill
No matter your skill level or field of endeavor, fasteners are indispensable in engineering and construction projects - whether they're used by professionals or amateurs alike. While their use should never cause issues for projects or engineers alike, any mistakes when using fasteners could create significant headaches in either field.
Brass is an ideal material for fasteners due to its hard but not brittle nature and resistance to corrosion and tarnishing, in addition to high thermal conductivity and excellent electrical properties, making it a popular choice in various industries.
Brass is not recommended for marine applications as it can corrode when exposed to seawater, and galvanic corrosion - which occurs when two dissimilar metals come into contact - can happen when two fasteners touch each other, potentially causing irreparable damage both to themselves and surrounding materials.
Arduino, in an era of rapidly changing technology, has excelled and revolutionized do-it-yourself electronics. Arduino is active, versatile, and accessible, inspiring creators, hobbyists, and innovators to turn their imaginative ideas into real-life working gadgets. In this paper, we will look at Arduino in detail including its general explanation of what it is, classification types, simulation tools for virtual experimentations, sensor and sensors of Arduino-based projects. This is a voyage of discovery and creation learn more.
Should’ve blogged this years ago. People email me about once a month asking for details and I reply with the following - don’t really have time to rewrite it or nicely format it right now, so I’ll just paste it as-is:
If you check the last comment on this Instagram post ( https://instagram.com/p/xjomIjq_pq/ ), that should get you started - if you reached me via Tumblr, you might not've seen those comments... But I never got around to doing a full Tumblr post about it, so thanks for reminding me!
It'll be a while yet before I find the time to make some diagrams, take some photos etc, but if you feel comfortable cracking open your DG-10 and poking around, you'll find that everything's fairly clearly laid out. You'll need to carefully unpack all the circuitboards and cardboard insulation layers, and the CPU's quite a fanny-on to access, but this doc will tell you exactly which one you should be looking for: http://www.warningwillrobinson.com.au/manuals/Casio%20DG10%20DG20%20service%20manual.pdf
It's worth having a multimeter handy so you can double-check my instructions: the gist is that when you're playing notes on the guitar (which'll involve a bit of precarious finger acrobatics - I recommend laying the sections of the guitar on your lap for this) you should get corresponding spikes on the multimeter when it's touching pins 17 and GND.
I crashed the DG-10 a few times by raking the wrong pins while confirming the info in the manual, but I found that pin 17 has to be counted from pin 1 on the top right going downwards. They then go from 32 on the bottom left up to 64 at the top. This is from the BACK of the CPU's board, where the soldered points are - and up/down are relative to the orientation of the board when you've got the guitar strings-down on your knees with the neck pointed out to your left, and the exposed board lifted up so it's accessible.
Might not've explained that very well, but the worst I was able to do was crash the thing and have to replace the batteries to start it again.
So once you've found the right pins, and ideally checked them by attaching some alligator clips/similar to a DIN-5 MIDI cable (be careful you don't short anything and wreck your MIDI interface! Most are pretty well protected and I've never ruined one, but there's a first time for everything - I accept no responsibility blah blah blah :), you're ready to solder a DIN-5 jack. MIDI is a unidirectional serial signal, so at its bare minimum it only needs two contacts - data and ground. DIN-5 MIDI normally just uses 2 or 3 of the available pins. Now...it's been a while, and I can't remember which two I soldered to on the jack...but I do remember that I found a bunch of conflicting pinout diagrams (most of which don't make much effort to specify whether they're showing the pins as viewed from the front or back of a jack) and had to resolder and swap the wires until I got it right. A few miniutes' googling will probably set you straight, though.
Beyond that, it was just a case of Dremelling the hole and screwing in the jack's mounting plate as you can see here: https://instagram.com/p/xp_Z7Zq_oG/
Another caveat: proper MIDI circuits have various types of spike/ground-loop protection, with diodes and things in, but I don't really know much about that... This is a bit rough and ready, but I haven't experienced any problems and it's thus far been solid enough for occasional studio use either into a DAW or controlling a hardware synth directly.
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As for other mods, the only one I did was hijacking the 'string mute' button for an always-on option with a switch - also visible in that last pic. It's not much use, to be honest.
I *was* a bit miffed to discover that while the DG-10's internals are almost identical to those of the DG-20, I couldn't find a way of accessing those basic synth parameter options detailed in the PDF on the DG-10 despite extensive probing. If you discover anything yourself, I'd be keen to hear about it!
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I've just realised that I complicated matters by saying you only use two pins; of course, you use the three pins that you've listed :) +5 from 64, ground from wherever you find it (though I used 32), and MIDI from 17.
Other tantalising pins on that CPU purport to control chorus, chorus speed, chorus depth, and distortion, and one says it switches between DG-10 and DG-20 mode, but I couldn't get them to do anything... Having built-in chorus on this would be amazing, though, and the only hardware difference I've been able to establish between the 10 and the 20 is the MIDI output assembly, the membrane patch control and the drum pads on the top. Frustrating to know the potential is there...maybe I can persuade a more technically-adept friend to look into it for me. I'll let you know if I find anything!
As for wiring those 3 pins, let's number the MIDI jack pins from 1-5 where 1 is the uppermost in these photos - ie on the far left if you were inside the case looking out through the jack hole:
GND goes from pin 32 on CPU to pin 2 on the rear of the MIDI jack (black in the photos)
MIDI goes from pin 17 on CPU to pin 3 on the rear of the MIDI jack (red in the photos)
+5v goes from pin 64 to on CPU to pin 4 on rear of MIDI jack (also black in photos - I only had red and black wire)
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Coming soon - hippity hoppity here comes a floppity 💾 🐇
We had a quest to do some floppy projects back in 2022 (https://blog.adafruit.com/2022/02/09/refactor-of-adafruit_floppy-for-timer-support-mac-disk-success/) but our eyes were bigger than our BOM - many components we designed into this floppy interface board were not available… but now we're back and it's time to make the bestest floppy archiver/writer/emulator(?)
First is the power supply - we need both 5V and 12V. We tried sourcing split 5/12V supplies but were not successful. so instead we can have a 12V power plug and a 5V ~3A buck converter based on the TPS563201 (https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/texas-instruments/TPS563201DDCT/5813458). we've also got a TPS259540 12V OVP chip (https://www.digikey.com/en/products/base-product/texas-instruments/296/TPS259540/28780) to make sure the 12V power supply doesn't get swapped with a 15V by accident. USB C can be used when no 12V is needed.
An RP2040 does all the heavy lifting for floppy interfacing. There's a 16M onboard flash plus an optional MicroSD card, so you can save raw disk flux dumps or 1:1 images. We tossed a 1.3" color TFT that might be useful for status updates. Also, we'd like to enable the ability to do off-line archiving - no computer is needed, and a display is essential.
Right now, we only have standard 34-pin IDC and 26-pin 'laptop' floppy pinouts. But we might look at adding disk ][ as well, since we got some Apple disk reading working. Since we have some silksreen room - the PCB is floppy disk sized but tbh we don't need that much space - we added some adorable floppsy bunny art.
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