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#ph meter for water
chansonwatersblog · 4 months
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In our quest for clean and safe water, understanding its quality is paramount. One of the key indicators of water quality is its pH level. Whether you are a homeowner, an aquarium enthusiast, a hydroponic gardener, or work in a laboratory, knowing how to measure and interpret the pH of water is crucial...
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alleycat4eva · 2 years
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If it's okay, could you tell us more about your dream job? It sounds interesting and I haven't heard anything about it
Okay so. Background is that there is a big hypoxic zone (no dissolved oxygen) in the gulf of Mexico. This is contributed to by excessive runoff from Agriculture and development. Basically extra nutrients go from lil canals to river systems to big Mississippi. This causes big algae blooms and massive dies offs and what is called eutriphication. Which is bodies of water aging before their time.
We knew this was happening for decades. We still know it's happening. The whole reason I went back to school was to work on this issue. (Goal: I will remove 10% of the excesses nutrients in the Mississippi) . I got a job as a research assistant to work on this.
No one, and I mean no one, is actually working on fixing it. Everyone is monitoring water systems or trying to work on more legislation.
That doesn't do anything /because it is already there./
It'd be like trying to prevent global warming but you can't because it's already warm. Only more because literally it's actively dying (reef bleaching, said hypoxic zone, record algae blooms, the crabs disapearing.)
Anyway, I thought somebody would be working on it ( I have read hundreds of research papers, largely on phytoremediation and rhizo-bacterial remediation) and there are methods that do show that they can work but fucking??? Nobody ??? Is doing out of lab testing or implementing these measures???
So I'm wondering why tf I would continue formal education if the job I want doesn't exist formally, and I why wouldn't take a higher paying job to save money and then spend my off work time implementing measures myself. Dream job somebody pays me so I can spend all my time working on developing and implementing measures to improve water quality.
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hmdigitalindia · 5 months
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WATER TESTING METER
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labotronicsscientific · 5 months
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Pocket TDS meter
Pocket TDS meter is a handheld unit with a dual measurement function. Hold function saves and records measurement readings. Automatic power off post ten minutes of last operation prolongs battery life. It determines the temperature and concentration of dissolved solids in a solution.
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bliiot-jerry · 8 months
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BLIIoT Industrial 4G Edge Router R40B for Smart Water Monitroing
BLIIoT uses the Industrial 4G Edge Router R40B to connect turbine flow meters, water meters, PH sensors, Chlorine sensors, EC Sensors, PT1000, etc Sensor. to help customers test the sensors and customize the MQTT Json format to connect to the customer MQTT Cloud. More information about Industrial 4G Edge Router R40B : https://lnkd.in/ggbfTHFY
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labequipments · 10 months
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Benchtop pH Meter
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The tabletop pH meter has a 0.0 to 14.00 pH range and is appropriate for everyday readings and testing. Automatic calibration may be conducted at two points using standard USA or NIST pH buffers. It allows for automated or manual temperature adaptation of pH readings. The pH meter boasts a sleek appearance and an easy-to-read backlit LCD screen that shows pH values and temperature at the same time.
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safecastle-sale · 10 months
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Ideal for a wide range of applications, including water quality testing, hydroponics, water purification, wastewater regulation, aquaculture, labs & scientific testing, pools & spas, ecology testing, boilers & cooling towers, and water treatment.
Measures four parameters: pH, Electrical Conductivity (EC), Total Dissolved Solids (TDS), and temperature.
Five scales: pH, µS, mS, ppm 0.5 (NaCl) Scale & 0.7 (442™) Scale.
Automatic Temperature Compensation (ATC): Uses three temperature coefficients to compensate for discrepancies in temperature.
Waterproof housing (IP-67 rating): Can be used in wet environments without worry.
Digital Calibration: Easy and precise calibration for better results.
Auto-off function: Conserves battery life.
Data-hold function: Freezes readings on the screen for easy reference.
Low-battery indicator: Alerts you when the battery is low.
Large and easy-to-read LCD screen: Includes simultaneous temperature reading.
Replaceable Sensor (model SP-C3): Easy to replace if it becomes damaged.
Factory Calibrated (pH/EC/TDS): Comes ready to use.
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labmatesblog · 2 years
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Portable pH Meter
Portable pH Meter LMPH-401 is a versatile device that can monitor pH, mV, and temperature when paired with the respective probe.visit www.labmate.com.
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records-of-dirt · 8 months
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Create Your Own Soil Profile!
A garden’s soil is the base of all its growth, and knowing how to properly  interact with your soil can make all the difference!
Step 1 Site Observations
Take a few photos of your site (project area)
Note down:
what vegetation is there?
is it near water?
the slope
approximate exposure to sun
Step 2 Take a soil profile
Set out a tarp or a garbage bag
Dig a hole about 3 feet deep (you may want a friend’s help!)
Place that soil in piles onto the tarp, sorted into different soil layers
Remember horizons! (O, A, E, B, C, R(bedrock))
Make a sketch of a soil profile, and measure the depth of each horizon
The top of the profile should start with 0 cm
Refill the hole, and try to return each type of soil in order!
Step 3 Build your profile
Describe each layer of soil, moisture/structure/color/smell
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Use the “feel” method to take notes
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Step 4 Drainage
Dig a hole 1 foot deep and 1 foot wide(ish)
Fill the hole with water and measure how long it takes to fully drain
An ideal time is around 10 to 30 minutes!
Note down the time
Keep in mind that even if the soil type would suit desert-like plants more, think of the weather. If it rains a good deal the drainage can matter less(or more!)
Step 5 Biological Activity
Bury a pair of cotton underwear(I know it’s silly)
Wait about 60 days
Unearth the undies, the more tattered they are the more activity there is!
Step 6 pH Testing
OSU Lab for Oregon, and many states have soil testing labs
Soil pH Meter
DIY Test
Step 7 Hardiness Zone
This just takes looking at a map!
Hardiness zones can tell you about the weather’s highs & lows in a particular area
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USDA Plant Hardiness Map
And that 's it! It's a lot, and you don’t have to do everything. Each step can provide a better view of how to properly support your garden, and can be fun activities to do with friends and family!
I’ve included a template for a complete soil profile, but feel free to make them as fancy as y’all want!
Sincerely,
records of dirt
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hedgehog-moss · 1 year
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forgive me for the possibly foolish question, but what kind of care do the fish in the aquaponics require? do you have to feed them to a certain point where the plants then supply their diet, or do you continuously care for them? merci! i love your blog 🌱
The plants don't feed the fish, it's the other way around :) The plants use the fish poop as natural fertiliser (with the help of useful bacteria that break it down), and in doing so they clean the water for the fish. Here's a little diagram
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Since my system has towers over the fish tank rather than grow beds, the fish do nibble on the plant roots that dip in the water but that's just an illegal snack, fish food is their main diet. Also when I find little insects on the plants, I shake them so the insect falls in the water where the fish give it an enthusiastic welcome. Some aquaponic gardeners farm insects to feed their fish (and they feed the insects with some of the plants so they have a complete symbiotic system) but I haven't tried that yet. I used to successfully breed dynasties of stick insects in a terrarium in my bedroom as a kid, so maybe someday.
The fish part of the aquaponic system is very low-maintenance—I don't clean the tank since the plants absorb the fish waste, I just have to adjust how much I feed the fish depending on how many plants there are, so the water doesn't get dirty, it's a bit of a balancing act. The main other thing to watch for is the water pH, for plants it should be around 6 or 6.5 (ideally) and for fish around 7 or 7.5, so I try to keep it between 6.5 and 7 to keep everyone reasonably happy. Rainwater has a lower pH and my spring has a higher one, so when I fill up my watering can in the tank to water outside plants, I look at the pH meter and top up the tank with rain or spring water depending on what's needed.
You just have to be careful not to pick up a hitchhiker fish in your watering can as you go to water other plants!
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chansonwatersblog · 4 months
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nardo-headcanons · 7 months
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Writing Scientist Characters
this post is mainly an excuse to post a certain list of lab supplies I've made for a friend and infodump about lab work. but feel free to use this as a little resource when writing characters who are scientists and/or lab nerds. who knows, maybe it'll be of use.
General thoughts
Many people think it's a stereotype that scientist or nerd characters talk using complex technical jargon. While that is true to an extent, there actually is some kind of lab jargon. It varies across different labs and fields, but one thing they have in common is that it seeks to simplify, not the other way around.
gelelectrophoresis becomes elpho
microbiology becomes mibi
deioninized water becomes aqua dist
biochemistry becomes BC
sodium hydroxide becomes NaOH
They will probably not call a glass of water "silicon dioxide and h2o".
...and more. feel free to get creative. If you're writing in any other language than English, you can throw in one or two anglicisms as well. Also, most scientists will never gatekeep their work, and in an opposite fashion, will not shut up about it unless you make them. And no, most chemists do not know the entire periodic table by heart, only the most relevant elements. (main groups and a few commonly used metals of the subgroups) When it comes to characters doing the lab work, keep in mind that there are a lot more people involved than the scientist themself. Most scientists are more occupied with paperwork and data analysis, it is the laboratory technicians and assistants that do most of the practical work. They often have more lab experience than the scientists themselves.
Things you can have your lab nerd character do instead of making random chemicals explode
writing a lab report (and losing their mind over excel)
degreasing the glass bevel stoppers
removing the permanent marker from beakers (labeling is important)
complaining about the lack of funding of [their field] research
cleaning glassware
preparing specimen for examination
googling the most basic equations for their report
checking if the glassware and utensil collections are complete
steal single use plastic pipettes from their lab
pirating expensive textbooks
A list of laboratory supplies and utensils you can have them work with
Laboratory general (chem + bio)
Erlenmayer flasks, beakers, precision scales (3 digits), glass rods, metal spoons/spatulas, screw on glass flasks (autoclave compatible) test tubes, stopcock grease, dispensers with sanitizer and hand cream, gas burners, heating plates, eppendorf pipettes, pipette tips, Peleus pipetting aids, squirting bottles, liquid and powder funnels, incubator/drying chamber, round watch glasses, magnet stirring plates.
Microbiology Autoclave, petri dishes, agar plates, innoculation loops (reusable and metal), clean bench, microscope slides, microscope, drigalski-spatula, test tubes with clamping lids
Histology
Paraffin bath, water bath, scalpels, scissors, razor blades, microtomes (rotating microtome, slide microtome and freezing microtome), histocinette, tweezers (various kinds), ocular
Biochemistry
Sequencing robots, eppendorf tubes, gelelectrophoresis chambers, centrifuge
Analytical Chemistry
Photometer, kuvettes, burettes, mass spectro meters, UV bank (for chromatogrophies), pyknometers, melting point meter, porcelain mortars, pH paper, analytical scales (4 or more digits)
Prep Chemistry
Tripod/standing material, miniature lifting platforms, spiral condenser, colon condenser, round bottom flask (three necked and y- necked), filtration material, Separating funnel
Electrical engineering
Electric generators, Soldering iron, Clamp connectors, plugin connectors, ohm’s resistors, plug in lamps, condensers, transistors, PCBs, amperemeters, voltmeters, multimeters
Mechanics
Tripod/standing material, metal hooks, metal rods, mechanical stop watches, marbles, metal springs, Newton meters, laser motion detectors
Optics
Prisma (various kinds), various glass lenses (concave, convex, biconcave, biconvex), laser pointers, optical bench, mechanical iris diaphragm, looking glasses, monochrome lamps, lamp filters
Most used chemicals
Deionized water, ethanol, NaOH, HCl, H3PO4, NaCl (+ physiological NaCl solution 0.9)
Useful websites for writing science stuff
DNA sequence generator (simple): http://www.faculty.ucr.edu/~mmaduro/random.htm
DNA, RNA and protein sequence generator: https://molbiotools.com/randomsequencegenerator.php Annealing temperature calculator: https://tmcalculator.neb.com/#!/main
Medicine name generator: https://www.fantasynamegenerators.com/medicine-names.php Anything chemistry related: https://www.wolframalpha.com/input?i=chemistry
Commonly used software:
MS Excel
Yenka
CASSY Lab
LabView
SpectraLab
LIMS
LaTex
Slack
Scientist friends, feel free to add onto this.
Have fun writing!
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hmdigitalindia · 5 months
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PPH-1000: Single Line pH and Temp Controller
HM Digital gives the user a Single-Line pH Controller ideal for any industrial or commercial system needing to control pH levels. It has a built-in sensor for Automatic Temperature Compensation (ATC).
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plantanarchy · 6 months
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Many of my blue hydrangeas turned out purple but I've overheard many people say "I love the purple" so. It's fine.
Changing the color of hydrangea blooms has to happen before they've started forming buds so you can't know if you've done it right until the sepals start to color.
Blue happens when pH is low and aluminum ions are available to be taken up by the plant to bind with pigments, creating blue. If pH is too high or other phosphorous too high, aluminum ends up as aluminum hydroxide or aluminum phosphate which isn't available to the plant, and flowers end up pink.
Purple means some of the aluminum was available to my supposed to be blue hydrangeas and some wasn't. I watered them by hand with a watering can since January with only with a low phosphorous fertilizer specifically meant for blueing hydrangea and every other watering with a plain water sulfuric acid solution through our injection.
Our water's default pH from the well is around 8, sometimes higher, so it's difficult to drop below 6 and every pH meter we have is broken so... No cabiliration has been done on the injector for several years and there was no pH testing of the Hydrangea's soil or the acid solution through the hose done this year.
But my big hunch about our trouble with blurple hydrangeas that happens yearly is just that transplanting forced hydrangeas in January into large pots without bottom heat to encourage root growth means their root systems are never the greatest and they can't take up much aluminum without the healthy roots to do so. The solution to that would be growing them on a heated bench in a warmer house or transplanting into 6.5"-7" pots rather than 8".
God, sorry for the horticulture chemistry word vomit. I haven't studied chemistry since my sophomore year of high school and I actually nearly flunked that class because that was the year I got brain damage falling off a horse.
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Samurai gourami (Sphaerichthys vaillanti)
Endangered
The samurai gourami is a small fish from the area of the Kapuas River in Borneo and its SO FUCKING COOL LOOK AT THEM I WANT ONE RAHHHH
They don’t actually live in the river, they’re way too cool for that-  
They live in a wonderfully bizarre habitat called a peat swamp, where pure rainwater pools over a meters-thick layer of decomposing leaves and wood fallen from the dense canopy above. The acids released as it all decays mean the pH of the water is so low (sometimes 3-4) that nothing can even decompose when it dies, and the tannic acids bond to any dissolved minerals and sink them into the soil. 
The water has the dark color and distinct scent of tea. It sits perfectly still, too dark for any plants to grow, so nearly every fish that makes its home there has to use a specialized organ called the labyrinth organ to get their oxygen from gulps of air. 
…btw, most adult fish will die within minutes in water like that - it’s nearly as acidic as pure vinegar. Samurai gouramis are literally so fucking metal… they live in the fucking Evil Death Water of Doom and theyre just. chilling. unbothered. thriving :3
The gouramis live in pairs, hidden in the tangles of submerged roots and branches and leaves. Their thin shape helps them mimic a dead leaf- and they play into that by acting like one too!! their slow, calm movement looks like they’re simply drifting peacefully through the water, even as they stalk their prey (mostly insects like mosquitoes). Also, they’re some of the biggest fish in the swamp- at a whopping 3 inches long. 
They usually form a social hierarchy where the biggest females get the best territory, food, and mates. And when they choose a mate, it gets really funky and weird :3
The males are less colorful than the females, but they have a pouch in their throat that they can extend as a display, kinda like an anole. The females lay from 10 to 40 eggs at a time before the males fertilize them and scoop them up with their mouth. It’s a lot like the toba betta, but it’s even more specialized - they keep the eggs in their throat pouch, even after they hatch 0.0 The babies spend a while growing up in there, just living in their father’s throat, and so he has to find a way to feed them…
He uses the tannic acids in the water. He absorbs them and mixes them with his own mucus, using their natural stickiness to form sort of a fishy tannin slime that he excretes into his throat like milk for the babies. They spend weeks nibbling at it until they get big enough that he can let them out to swim away. He doesn’t eat anything until they’re free. 
Overall 10/10 fish very funky does a masterful imitation of a leaf. but like if the leaf was fruity or something
They’re endangered by deforestation and pollution from illegal gold mining upstream. The efforts to protect them in the wild have failed, but not in aquariums :3
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Luckily they don’t have to live in vinegar or acid rain or something. They’re okay in any soft water with a pH of 6.5 or less, which may even be how your tapwater is naturally. If not, you can gather fallen leaves, seed pods, and sticks from local trees and let those soak in your aquarium, and the tannins they release will give the fish what they need just like in the peat swamps. They really do need very soft water though, so if your water isn’t already naturally soft, this may not be the best fish for you. 
They do best in a shallow tank of at least 30 gallons, with very clean and warm water (75-82 F) and minimal flow. They don’t like bright light so add plenty of floating plants to cast shadows, and make sure the water has plenty of tannins to keep it that dark color. They can be very shy and reclusive sometimes so they really need a lot of cover to feel safe and comfortable enough to come out. It’s easy to give them that, just add lots of wood, dark caves, dead leaves, and plants to the tank. Most plants won’t do well in blackwater, but there are plenty that will - I like to use frogbit, cryptocorynes, water lilies, mosses, and some stem plants like rotala rotundifolia if you let them grow up to the surface. You can also use plants like pothos and peace lilies that like to grow with only their roots in the water - these are amazing at keeping the water clean and your gouramis will love the roots. There should be about an inch of air at the top for the fish to breathe from, and a lid to keep it humid enough so the babies’ labyrinth organs can develop properly. 
Samurai gouramis are wonderfully peaceful and harmless, so whatever you keep with them (except shrimp) is perfectly safe. The only thing you need to worry about is that the gouramis are slow and timid enough that a lot of other fish will eat all the food before they can get any- and if the other fish are aggressive at all the gouramis are done for. The best tankmates for samurai gouramis are small, slow, peaceful, and unintimidating, so I’d suggest a small school of pygmy cories or tiny rasboras like chili, kubotai, or axelrod rasboras. You could probably also keep them with similar peaceful gouramis like chocolate gouramis, licorice gouramis, or snakehead bettas. Just make sure you have plenty of other samurai gouramis (at least 6) since they need company almost as much as we do.
Breeding them is easy, just have a group and they’ll form pairs. The difference between males and females is really easy to see - the males are chocolatey brown like an old fallen leaf, and the females look like a psychedelic rainbow. They’ll all find their own spots in the tank when they decide to breed and eventually the males’ throats will be filled with eggs and they’ll become reclusive and stop eating for up to three weeks while they care for them. It’s best to move the adults into another tank temporarily for a few days after the babies are released or they could get eaten. The fry need to eat the microorganisms that grow around dead leaves, and they should be fed other tiny live foods as supplements like microworms and baby brine shrimp until they get big enough to eat what their parents eat. Even the adults are a bit picky and they prefer live foods but they can usually learn to eat protein rich prepared foods too.
Have fun with ur gouramis :3 
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