#surplice bodice

[chic-a-gigot]

L'Art et la mode, no. 35, vol. 15, 1 septembre 1894, Paris. Toilettes de soirée. Dessin de G. de Billy. Bibliothèque nationale de France

Corsage de soirée en tulle rose pointillé de jais noir, draperies croisées retenues par un corselet "guêpe” en broderie de jais. Manches ballons drapées, garnies dans le haut sur l’épaule et dans le bas d'un gros bouillonné de tulle uni et d'un volant plissé en tulle.

Evening bodice in pink tulle dotted with black jet, crossed draperies held by a "wasp" bodice in jet embroidery. Draped balloon sleeves, trimmed at the top on the shoulder and at the bottom with a large plain tulle ruffle and a pleated tulle flounce.

—

Corsage de dîner en peau de soie mais garni de plumes noires. Gros nœuds de velours noir ornant la polonaise croisée. Manches drapées. Corselet et poignets des manches brodés de jais et d’or.

Dinner bodice in peau de soie but trimmed with black feathers. Large black velvet bows adorning the crossed polonaise. Draped sleeves. Bodice and cuffs of the sleeves embroidered with jet and gold.

—

Toilette de château en veloutine abricot. Veste Louis XVI en vieille soie à ramages, fond vert mousse broché vieux tons, revers arrondis en veloutine abricot, jabots en dentelle rousse. Capeline de tulle coulissé garnie de plumes.

Apricot velvet house ensemble. Louis XVI jacket in old silk with patterns, moss green background brocaded in old tones, rounded lapels in apricot velvet, jabots in red lace. Drawstring tulle capeline trimmed with feathers.

—

Robe de dîner en liberty bleu très pâle ou vert d’eau. Le corsage drapé en spirale est garni d’entre-deux de vieux Bruges suivant le mouvement des plis. Polonaise drapée légèrement sur le côté et relevée par une ceinture avec choux. Première jupe en plissé surplis.

Dinner dress in very pale blue or sea green liberty. The spiral draped bodice is trimmed with old Bruges in between following the movement of the pleats. Polonaise draped slightly on the side and raised by a belt with choux. First skirt in surplice pleats.

—

Robe de satin aurore. Jupe plate garnie sur le côté d’un coquillé de dentelle, relevé dans le bas par un nœud de jaune nacarat. Corsage avec petits revers châle fixés à la taille par deux boucles; col de guipure, manches de panne nacarat, gros nœud sur la poitrine serré par une boucle.

Aurora satin dress. Flat skirt trimmed on the side with a lace shell, raised at the bottom by a yellow pearl bow. Bodice with small shawl lapels fixed at the waist by two buckles; guipure collar, pearl panne sleeves, large bow on the chest tightened by a buckle.

[jewellery-box]

Polka-dot Printed Dress                            

1810-1815

Style: This simple dress attests to American women’s ability to keep up with European fashions while modifying them to suit simpler middle-class American taste and budgets. The bodice has been lengthened to keep up with fashion, and the flounce is superimposed atop a simple self-pleat, which would have updated the dress when skirt hems began to be accentuated with ruffles and trims. Hem accents appeared late in the first decade of the 1800s and increased in volume and complexity as skirts began to widen after 1810. The dress’s relatively narrow skirt (84 inch hem circumference) may place its original construction closer to 1810.

Fabric: A cheerful print of good quality but modest cost is made up with a fashionable crossover (surplice) bodice and a small flounce.

Dress, cotton, United States, private collection; reproduction chemisette, private collection; coral necklace courtesy of Dames à la Mode.

[professorpski]

Big Blooms Print Dress: The Layout, or How Did I Do?

I must confess that I was so focused on getting the front bodice lay out just right that I really did not think enough about the skirt. For the front bodice, I wanted to feature a motif, but one in a softer color, have enough background white in the middle, make sure the motifs and colors harmonized where the two bodices pieces created the illusion of surplice, or wrap.  I laid the pattern pieces in several places to see the results. I think it worked out very with the motif spreading across the center, getting paler as it goes as the whole idea was to make sure that it did not overwhelm the wearer--me!

I was so focused on the bodice that I thought far less about the skirt layout. I an a little worried at having the pale but large leaf in peach hitting in the middle right below the waist. On the other hand, it is part of a larger motif, so maybe it does not make anyone else think of a fig-leaf?

In any case, I decided then that a sash--not a belt--should accompany the dress with enough of the peach-colored leaf to blur the location of that color and that leaf. Stay tuned to see how it worked out.

This is Butterick 6582, a re-issued pattern from 1960. It comes in both a slim sheath and in this wide-skirted version which created the hour-glass figure that was so popular in the 1950s.

[dresslily123456]

2023 dress pop elements – Peach Blossom Floral Print

As spring and summer 2023 approaches, Dresslily’s peach blossom floral dresses have become increasingly popular. These skirts feature a variety of stylish details, including zippers, prints, panels, embroidery and bows, all of which are combined with peach blossom floral elements to create a unique and eye-catching look.

Peach Blossom Floral Print A Line Vacation Sundress and Bowknot Surplice T Shirt Two Piece Summer Set

This two-piece dress is truly unique! The bodiced short-sleeved jacket features a special bow, while the skirt can be worn alone as a slip dress. With two different ways to wear it, this dress is perfect for any vacation.

Flower Leaf Print A Line Midi Cami Dress And Heather Crossover Tied Cropped Top Two Piece Outfit

This spring, a long-sleeved skirt style has been added to the summer collection. The pink hue of the skirt gives off a gentle and feminine vibe, making it the perfect choice for the season.

Colorblock Flower Print Dress Lace Panel Empire Waist Belted Mock Button A Line Mini Dress

This pink floral dress is absolutely adorable! Featuring all the popular elements such as lace, bows, and peach blossom flowers, it is perfect for any party or gathering. When you wear it, you will be sure to turn heads and be the center of attention.

Welcome spring in style with Dresslily’s selection of beautiful floral dresses! With a variety of styles and colors to choose from, you’ll be sure to find the perfect dress to welcome the new season.

[retropolitanllc]

Check out this listing I just added to my Poshmark closet: NWT Womens Size Small ZARA Printed Plumetis Patchwork Floral Midi Dress NEW.

[zealouslifestylequotes]

Check out this listing I just added to my Poshmark closet: Chico’s animal print dress with pockets.

[the-blackorchid1]

Check out this listing I just added to my Poshmark closet: INC NEW XL PINK FLORALS BLACK DRESS International Concepts NWT Womens Christmas.

[trendilyyours]

Check out this listing I just added to my Poshmark closet: VINCE Camuto Sleeveless Floral Faux Wrap Midi Dress.

[manark-blog1]

Check out this listing I just added to my Poshmark closet: Tahari ASL Animal Print Faux Wrap Crepe Jumpsuit.

[ecposhgirl]

Check out this listing I just added to my Poshmark closet: NWT Motherhood Maternity Floral Nursing Dress.

[cbelleschic]

Check out this listing I just added to my Poshmark closet: Zara Flutter Sleeve Romper in Burnt Orange Sz M.

[dobroyeutro]

Check out this listing I just added to my Poshmark closet: TADASHI SHOJI ROYAL NAVY Plus Made In Usa Alberti Sequin Slit Gown.

[amquirk-blog]

Check out this listing I just added to my Poshmark closet: Baltic Born Mustard Yellow Celine Maxi Dress Sz.2X NWT.

[professorpski]

Calvin or Claire? Vogue 1793 from 1996

The question comes from my recent spotting of a very similar draped neckline in an image of Claire McCardell from the 1950s; she was an American designer who died far too young. I like this neckline because it has the crossing of the fronts above the bust which means it neither catches the bust nor droops down too low at the neckline as many surplice or wrapped bodices can do.

True, from what I can tell McCardell’s neckline seems to have been a raised neck in the back which is easier to sew, while Klein’s acts like a shawl collar, that is, the front bodice has an slender piece which extends around the neck to meet in the back. Which is an improvement to my eye because I find it fits the neck better.

And McCardell’s dress had set-in sleeves while Klein’s are dolman. Which is not an improvement to me, as it takes up LOTS of fabric, especially when you use a fabric with nap which I did with this velour. This pattern would take up much less fabric done in a fabric without nap as you could place the pieces far more closely together. McCardell did use dolman sleeves often, especially when she was placing a cotton plaid on the bias which she liked to do. You can see how dolman sleeves would make life much easier as the matching of the plaid was then limited.

And another difference was Klein used giant shoulder pads as this dress does. Women’s wear sported giant shoulder pads starting in the late 1980s and it continued into the 1990s. It was an era when women were moving into corporate leadership and apparently we all thought we would look more formidable if we dressed like linebackers. ;-)

In any case, it makes for a very nice dress and I have made it multiple times without the shoulder pads, and without the center back zipper by always using knits which makes it easy to pull on. I added a godet to long slit at the back hem.

And then I decided to make it as a top as you can see. This palomino velour had been stuck in a box for far too long which explains the creases which should come out with the first garment washing. If you have never worked with cotton-blend velour, it is medium weight fabric, has a nap, and is soft. The nap makes you want to stroke it and also means it catches the light in subtle ways.

[ladivafashions]

Check out this listing I just added to my Poshmark closet: Band of Gypsies Dress Large Mustard Yellow Floral Wrap Maxi Fairy Ruffle Boho.

[briefranchweaselhuman]

Check out this listing I just added to my Poshmark closet: Banana Republic Lavender Pull Over Sweater Wool Aire Crossover V-neck.