#Benakis Family

[imperiumodyssey]

Housed in the Benakis family mansion in downtown Athens, the Benaki Museum, established and endowed in 1930 by Antonis Benakis in memory of his father Emmanuel Benakis, a prominent merchant and politician, considered a national benefactor of Greece. | Athens, Greece. 2019.

[suetravelblog]

Benaki Museum of Greek Culture Athens Greece

Benaki Museum of Greek Culture Athens Greece

[thehistoricalgods]

Gold hairnet with a relief bust of Athena wearing a triple crested helmet and blue enamel inlaid for her eyes. Dated to around the 2nd century BC.

According to the article, Unpublished Greek Gold Jewelry and Gems, this piece was found in a “large Hellenistic hoard of gold and silver jewelry and coins, said to have been found in 1929 in two large jars (one of clay, the other of bronze in which the hoard was) in the river Xerias near Halmyros in Thessaly. In the hoard were a small fourth century terracotta pot,...unmarked gold bars, a bronze pot of the fourth century, and several silver vases and other objects, some of which are earlier than a 100 BC, the approximate date of the burial” (Robinson, 5).

Another article, Two Hellenistic Gold Medallions from Thessaly, states that this item, along with another of its type, except it had a bust of Artemis instead, were “accidentally discovered by peasants in 1929 in a remote spot of northern Greece near Halmyros in Thessaly” (Segall, 3). The one shown here with the bust of Athena was later acquired by the Benaki family, while the other one [of Artemis] was acquired by the Stathatos family. The author also hypothesizes that the artifacts could by of Ptolemaic origin given the style and technique used in making them, but this has yet to be proven.

As of right now, both artifacts are believed to be funerary treasures.

[architectuul]

Skopje 2020

Skopje, the North Macedonia capital, has changed regimes and countries. From the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes to Yugoslavia or FYROM. Besides the demolishment of almost 80% of the city during the earthquake in 1963, has the most brutal demolishment occurred in last ten years, after its project Skopje 2014 was executed.

Tange’s model for the central area of Skopje. | Photo via Bakalchev

Architcetuul already revealed Skopje’s story several times; from Macedonia Unfinished: The Tree Break Points (2014) to the Skopje Unfinished 2014-2018 from the Venice Biennial (2018). This time we talked about Skopje with the curatorial advisory board Ana Ivanovska Deskova, Vladimir Deskov and Jovan Ivanovski from the MoMA exhibition Toward a Concrete Utopia: Architecture in Yugoslavia, 1948-1980.

Poster for the retrospective exhibition of the architect Janko Konstantinov (1984). |  Personal archive of Jovan Ivanovski

What happened in Skopje in 1963?

Skopje was struck by an earthquake of catastrophic proportions in July 1963. There were over 1.000 casualties, more than 3.000 people were injured, while 75% to 80% of the urban tissue was either demolished or damaged beyond repair. What followed after this unfortunate event, was actually a case of unprecedented international solidarity. More than 80 countries gave their donations in many different forms, from the most needed immediate supplies, financial aid, different kinds of intellectual help and expertise, all the way to art pieces or architectural designs. Help started to come immediately after the earthquake and continued for a decade.

The clock at Skopje railway station stopped at 5:17am, when the first wave of the earthquake hit the city of Skopje in 1963. | Photo via Paperheritage

After the first shock, the natural disaster became a trigger for radical transformation of the city. Previous peripheral, local and unknown Skopje, suddenly became a spot where famous architects and planners worked together with architects both from Macedonia and other parts of former Yugoslavia. The whole reconstruction process was guided by the UN. Ernest Weissman, the former CIAM member was appointed as a Chair of the International team, Adolf Ciborowski from Poland was project manager of the Master plan, Doxiadis Associates from Athens were involved, as well as many other international experts.

In 1965 as a joint effort of the UN and the Yugoslav government, a very interesting invited competition was launched for the Skopje city center for an area of 2x2 km. In the reconstruction plan for Skopje four Yugoslav and four international teams participated. The prize was divided; 60% went to the Japanese architect Kenzo Tange and his team, whereas 40% were awarded to the Croatian architect Miščeviċ and Venzler.

Kenzo Tange team in front of their model of the eastern area of the city centre of Skopje.  | Photo via Templates of consumption

The urgency of the post-earthquake condition in Skopje and the specific phenomenon of rapid construction could be compared to the post-World War II situation in many European cities; the need for rational solutions, the use of industrially produced elements and economical construction methods. As a consequence and result, the relatively short but high in intensity period of 15 years brought the undoubtedly most powerful architectural segment within Skopje’s recent architectural history.

What happened in Skopje in 2014?

If you refer to the Skopje 2014 project, it started several years earlier, in 2009, a short video was launched on the national television showing the development and transformation of Skopje into a new national capital. No one could believe his eyes at the time. In the years to come, it turned out to be our unavoidable reality.

Neo-baroque facades over the River Vardar. | Photo © Maja Janevska Ilieva

Skopje 2014 was a decadent project, highly political in nature, that damaged the city tissue to a great extent, probably the biggest disaster the city had after the earthquake. Once again, the project saw the architecture as a tool for representation. The unwanted modernist (socialist) heritage was supposed to be erased and replaced with strange eclectic (supposedly neo-classical and neo-baroque) structures. The size of the project is huge; new buildings were erected; existing buildings were changed (new facades have been made), some of them real masterpieces of the post-war or post-earthquake architecture; numerous sculptures have been placed all around the city center, together with ridiculous structures in the riverbank of Vardar, such as ships and panoramic wheel.

What is color revolution?

In April 2016 there were mass protests against the government. Thousends of people were walking and demontrating in front of the Parlament and the Government building. At certain point some of the protesters started throwing paint on the governmental buildings as well as on the buildings and sculptures of the project Skopje 2014.

Colorful Revolution. | Photo © Maja Janevska Ilieva

Skopje 2014 was the major project of the previous government and the former Ministry of Culture. Therefore targeting its results and staining them with color bombs was a symbolical and powerful yet peaceful way of showing dissatisfaction and revolt. Many buildings were target; the Ministry of Culture, the Government (previous modernist building re-clad in eclectic mixture of styles), the new Archaeological Museum, the Triumphal Arch. The media's described it as a colorful revolution and it became a symbol of the protests.

What happed to the city of Skopje in last few years?

There is an intense construction activity going on, mainly housing. The city is densifying, practically every single gap has been filled in. In many settlements, the existing building plots have been enlarged and extruded to height, which the city can not sustain. Therefore one could not find much quality in it. Regarding the city center, the previous activities with Skopje 2014, has been stopped. At least nothing new has emerged; however nothing has been knocked down or disassembled as well.

How do you encounter values of the modernist legacy?

In the past 10 years we have conducted an extensive research on the architecture of the 20th century in Skopje, especially the post-war architecture. It was based upon our individual interest in this segment of the architectural history about the city of Skopje, which is an interesting architectural and urban case per se. This interest coincided with the increasing global interest for the post-war and late-modern architecture.

The first major international presentation of the modernist legacy in Skopje was the project Findings on the 2014 Venice Biennale, which was created by a wider group of architects, mainly colleagues from the Faculty of Architecture in Skopje. Later, the three of us conducted several other research projects: Biography of an Architectural work: The Telecommunications center Skopje – architect Janko Konstantinov (2016), Skopje Verticals (2017) and Endangered Species (2018). We collected abundance of material, original drawings, scans, digitized and redrawn material, archival photos, photos of the current condition of the buildings. For many buildings we made models in different sizes and material. We tried to discipline ourselves and finalize each research with a public presentation, an exhibition and a publication. Thanks to the fruitful collaboration we had over the years, most of the exhibitions took place in the premises of the Museum of the City of Skopje. We developed our own methodology, always with the idea to speak about the material, to open the question, to show the results and to raise the awareness of the public about the buildings that are our recent heritage.

Skopje Verticals, Museum of the City of Skopje (2018). | Photo © Vase Amanito

The Future as a Project: Doxiadis in Skopje, Benaki Museum, Athens (2018). | Photo © Vase Amanito

Endangered Species, Museum of Natural History (2018). | Photo © Vase Amanito

It might be interesting to point out that during the process we collaborated with many, either students of architecture in their final years of studies or just graduated young architects. These are people with great knowledge and skills, fully dedicated to the project and with great capacity for professional collaboration. Their work was completely outside the school curricula, based solely on enthusiasm and deep faith in the projects we were doing together.

How did you contributed to the exhibition “Toward a Concrete Utopia: Architecture in Yugoslavia, 1948– 1980″ in MoMA in New York?

For the MoMA exhibition we were invited to be part of the curatorial advisory board. At the end of 2015, the whole group met in Skopje for the first time. At that moment, it was still a bit uncertain whether the exhibition would take place. As part of the curatorial advisory board we proposed the research topic, suggested material (abundance of material that underwent several phases of selection), contacted institutions, archives, authors and their families in order to provide original material for the exhibition, contributed within the exhibition catalogue. 

Toward a Concrete Utopia: Architecture in Yugoslavia, 1948–1980 at MoMA (2018). | Photo © Vladimir Deskov, Ana Ivanovska Deskova, Jovan Ivanovski

Having in mind the fact that in Macedonia 20th century architecture is still not considered a heritage, that we lack an institution dealing specifically with architecture (such as MAO in Ljubljana for example), it was quite an effort to find it and obtain permission to lend it.

What are your future plans and perspectives?

As we already said, we have been researching Skopje and its modernist legacy for a decade now, presenting it in various forms (local, international exhibitions, Venice biennale) to raise local awareness and international interests about this architecture. We have collected a certain archive, created more than 30 models. Much of the work has been done almost without resources, based on our enthusiasm and the huge enthusiasm of our co-workers, former students.

The 2018 was really an overwhelming year. In May we had the finale of the project Skopje Verticals, presented in the Museum of City of Skopje, in July we traveled to New York for the opening of the exhibition we all eagerly waited for Toward a Concrete Utopia: Architecture in Yugoslavia, 1948-1980. Then in December we had the opening of Endangered Species in the Museum of Natural History in Skopje and The Future as a Project: Doxiadis in Skopje, a huge collaborative effort with our colleagues from Athens, held in Benaki Museum in Athens. One might expect that there was a loud resonance after the exhibition in MoMA; strangely so, Skopje did not give much publicity to the event. I don’t think we comprehended to the full extent the meaning of the event, that Macedonian architects and architecture were presented there; that drawings of Georgi Konstantinovski and Janko Konstantinov (for example) are now kept in the archives of MoMA.

However, we will continue working with the modernist legacy of Skopje and possibly of the wider territory of Macedonia, since we still see a huge potential for research there. There are still piles of material to be collected. We hope to get some funds that would enable us sustain with the idea.

City Walls | Photo © Vladimir Deskov, Ana Ivanovska Deskova, Jovan Ivanovski

Which is your favorite part of the Skopje’s Tange plan and specific building in Skopje?

Difficult question. As for Tange, probably the City Wall, as this segment of the city is functioning well even today. It introduced a large number of residents in the city center and is very active and alive; buildings themselves are creating a vast public space in between. The post-earthquake segment of Skopje is a very extraordinary collection of buildings, kind of a museum-like collection.

The Macedonian Opera and Ballet by Biro 71. | Photo © Damjan Momirovski

Inside Macedonian Opera and Ballet. | Photo © Adolph Stiller

Ana said that If she have to choose, the choice will of course be partly subjective, connecting with her memories, so it will be the National opera and ballet building, the City Trade Center and a less known but marvelous building, her High School Nikola Karev by Janko Konstantinov. As Vladimir live and grew up nearby City Trade Center, this is his favorite one. 

The City Trade Center by Živko Popovski. | Photo © Damjan Momirovski

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Jovan Ivanovski (1976), Vladimir Deskov (1977) and Ana Ivanovska Deskova (1978) are architects who have been collaborating on various architectural and research projects for more than a decade. As a co-founders and members of the informal architectural group SCArS (Studio for Contemporary Architecture Skopje) participated in and won a number of awards at international and local architectural competitions. In 2014 were curators and part of the team of authors of the project Findings for the Macedonian Pavilion at the 14th Venice Biennale. They are authors of numerous research projects: “Invisible Skopje” (MGS, 2013), “Biography of an architectural work: Telecommunication Center – Skopje” (MGS 2016), “Skopje Verticals” (MGS, 2018), “Endangered Species” (Museum of Natural Sciences, 2018) and Constructing a Modernist Utopia: The Architecture of The Post-Earthquake Renewal of Skopje, ‎1963-1981 (Gallery MC New York, each followed by an exhibition and publication. They have presented their research on Skopje’s Modern Architecture outside the borders of Macedonia with the exhibitions “Skopje, Macedonian architecture in context” (Ringturm Gallery, Vienna, 2017), “The future as a project: Doxiadis in Skopje” (Benaki Museum, Athens, 2018) and within the wider research team at the exhibition “Toward a Concrete Utopia: Architecture in Yugoslavia 1948-1980” (MoMA, New York, 2018).

Jovan, Vladimir and Ana | Photo © Maja Janevska-Ilieva

[ridiasfangirlings]

Hi Ridia:) so i just read the ask where babies hate Aki but turns out baby Fushimi loves Aki and it was so adorable. And being thr BenAki shipper i am imagine Benzai finished his bath early cos he was worried that Aki is wallowing in self-pity if baby Fushimi rejects him and so Benzai goes to check up on Aki only to see that whole adorable scene play out. Cue BenAki being the best parents baby Fushimi will ever have :D then when Fushimi turns back, BenAki continues to parent him XD Thanks Ridia!

Aw, imagine Benzai walking in on Akiyama playing with baby Fushimi and his eyes just shine with how adorable his boyfriend is. Like Akiyama's been a bit down all day because he expected baby Fushimi to hate him, Benzai left Akiyama with the baby but he starts feeling a bit bad as he walks away because what if baby Fushimi really does hate Akiyama. Benzai tells himself that well, it's Fushimi-san, of course he'll like Akiyama, but he can't entirely convince himself of it and he feels bad because what if he left Akiyama there to be disappointed. He hurriedly finishes his bath and rushes back to where he left baby Fushimi with Akiyama, half-expecting to find the baby crying and Akiyama sitting in a corner cultivating mushrooms in a stance of ultimate gloom. Instead he hears baby Fushimi's cute happy little gurgles, Benzai peeks in the door and there's Akiyama with baby Fushimi on his knee bouncing the baby up and down. Little Fushimi just seems so happy and even throws his arms around Akiyama's neck to hug him and Akiyama is just beaming because Fushimi-san loves him this much. Benzai can't help but laugh as he walks over, saying he knew that this would work out. Akiyama looks up all “Benzai, look!,' just so proud of ow much baby Fushimi is attached to him.

The rest of the squad shows back up eventually but baby Fushimi is still the most attached to Akiyama so it's decided that AkiBen will take care of him in the meantime. Akiyama's still unsure because he isn't great at handling babies but Benzai has a little sister and feels confident that together they can handle it. Cue a few days of AkiBen being parents to little Fushimi, like imagine they have to take him into the city for some reason and Akiyama gets to carry Fushimi in one of those little baby harnesses strapped to his chest. Benzai thinks Akiyama's turning out to be a great mother, he's all cautious and gentle around baby Fushimi and Fushimi just seems like he feels very content. Fushimi's a bit of a fussy baby (naturally) but Akiyama's good at calming him down and Benzai's able to figure out what Fushimi needs pretty quickly. Imagine them sitting together at like an outdoor cafe and Fushimi is on Akiyama's lap being bottle fed while Benzai sits next to them and all the passersby are commenting on what a cute little family they are and Benzai is so proud.

The little family gets to be happy for about a week or so and then Fushimi eventually turns back, the entire squad has to pretend that they aren't just a little disappointed that they don't get to parent him anymore. Akiyama and Benzai can't help but still feel kinda attached to him though, like they fed him bottles and changed his diaper for a week they feel parental. Fushimi notices pretty quickly that the two of them are being kinda clingy towards him, like suddenly Benzai's asking him if he's eaten and Akiyama's asking about his sleep habits and they're bringing him healthy snacks and putting their hands on his forehead wondering if he has a fever. Fushimi's probably not very happy about this either, like he gets enough of this from Munakata he doesn't need it from AkiBen too (but then at the same time he can't quite manage to swat them away because he still hasn't gotten used to this kind of parental treatment).

[bites-kms]

Kalimera! Something to eat?

Greek hospitality means food. It taste like kalamata olives, fresh, sweet figs and strong, delicious olive oil, not to forget the soft grapes that torn you between harvesting them for the next delicious sip of House White versus indulging yourself in them straight out from the vine.

There are certain musts you should try in Greece (if you haven’t done so in Turkey or in Georgia) like Tomatokeftedes or sun dried tomato croquettes, Greek Fava Dip, that delicious yellow split pea puree, feta cheese in one of their multiple, exquisite special preparations, meat filled zucchinis and tons, tons of wine to pair with all of it. 

I gained almost 2 kilos in 2 weeks, - thank god I was prepared and I lost weight before traveling - but no regrets nor harm feelings: those were the best 2 kilos I gained in a while. All the beauty and history surrounding you deserve a proper celebration, and when it comes to commemorate something, Greeks know exactly how to do it. A little bit of cheese, some home made pies or veggie croquettes, you name it. And that is just for starters.

We took this hospitality really seriously, and as my friend Mau would say, we knew our “priorities”, so FOOD became a crucial part of our experience and tour. The heat also made it easier for us to stop every 2 hours for a soul refill- since when we ate, we were happy. Here’s the recap of our favorites places went in Athens:

Diongenes  Lisikratous, Athina, 105 58

It was our first dinner and we were both starving: Mau from flying 10+ hours from the future and myself flying almost another 10 from the past. Luckily, this restaurant which we researched before and was recommended to us, was around our place. It was a gorgeous taverna. Exactly as you would imagine a mild night in Greece might be like. We ordered some zucchini, tomato croquettes and an octopus, which seemed to be more tasty than what they usually and actually were given our flight famine. But still, the place is worth giving it a shot since the ambience and the service is very, very good.  Kayak  Durrachiou 30 & Amvrakias  Athina, 10443

It wasn’t a brilliant idea, to be honest, to have a kick-in-the-butt-awaken Ellinikos or Greek Coffee that night instead of a regular espresso. Same as in Turkish culture, their coffee is extremely strong, heavy and with the grounded bean in it so it has this dusty and dry taste. Strong. Killer. Not at all jet-lag helpful. Worth it, though? Absolutely!  Everest  various locations Bites&Kms Fav: Syndagma Square, Athina, 105 63

photo courtesy of polyarch.com We found this place by chance and, oh, odds are in our favor! Since that moment, each time we needed a refilled, we stoped by the closest Everest we could find in seek for an orange juice or a cappuccino. Cheap, delicious, great service. Tons of food and snack options to go along, even at this store on Syndagma Square, freshly made pizzas, sandwiches and croque monsieur were available!  Klepsydra Tavern  Klepsidras, Athina 105 56

Finding this secret gem was pure coincidence but once again, we ended up in the most wonderful corner in between Plaka and Anafiotika. There was only one table left, with a “reserved” sign on it, and as soon as we mentioned we were there for lunch, they remove it, reverse their glasses and brought the bread. It was meant to be. The view, the service and the food was all perfect. We ordered some of our favorites: spanikopita, tzaziki and greek salad. Spanikopita or otherwise known as Greek spinach pie is a traditional yet delicious recipe. With its versatility the dish matches with every time of the day. Feta cheese, butter, olive oil all are mixed and baked until golden crispy perfection.

Greek salad is a must have for Greeks with almost every meal. Choriatiki, as they called them in Greek, are made of tomatoes, olives, cucumber and a large piece of feta cheese and served undressed. Dressing is left at person’s choice hence all restaurants serve vinegar, salt, pepper and olive oil with the salad - although, in our experience, most of the times, it came already prepared. With the tradition of being a starter, Greek salad can also be a great side dish. Look at this beauty! We were definitely in food heaven!

Stamatopulos Tavern Lisiou 26, Athina 105 58

At night, we had a reservation on this place a Greek friend recommended. A little bit touristy yet fun, the only regret was that a couple came in after us and sat super close to our table, and started smoking non-stop, which became really annoying. Yet, there was nothing left to do, since it was an al fresco dinner place. Regardless, it was a lovely evening. They had live music with the traditional guitar and two guys with the typical voice you expect from the Greek coasts. The highlight of the night, aside from the great Moussaka, a lemon dressed lamb and some more croquettes, it was the time the musicians start playing the amazing Zorba Song! I couldn’t help myself and stood up, went to the front, and tried to learn that beautiful dance. After a while, right next to a two-left-legged old guy, I managed to do something, but the highlight of the night was when Mau joined and we killed the dance floor, throwing shame to all the other not-so-gifted people with our grace and moves! Coming back to the food, the moussaka is a legendary, traditional dish that is creamy and juicy. Moussaka is served in almost all tavernas in Greece. In the big family gathering this dish is prepared by Greek homemakers. In Moussaka, tomato sauce is used to cook minced beef which is subsequently layered with sweet eggplants and creamy béchamel sauce. This irresistible cuisine is filling so you don’t need too many side dishes. I was a little bit skeptical about moussaka at first since the ones I had before weren’t that good, but this one, OMG, completely changed my mind about them! Brettos  Kidathineon 41, Athina 105 58

Brettos is Athens’ oldest bar and distillery, established by Michail Brettos in 1909. Most of the alcohol served there such as ouzo, mastiha, liqueurs and other beverages, are home made and they still respect the old recipe from Mr. Brettos. You can taste them are feel the fermentation happened in the old oak barrels placed inside. As soon as you step inside Brettos, you will be amazed by the wall adorned with colorful glass liqueur bottles and impressive original wooden barrels.  Its unique décor is probably one of the reasons why Brettos is one of the most photographed locations in Athens, behind the Acropolis, Syntagma Square and other ancient monuments and sites in the city. We had two strong and delicious drinks: Aphrodite, which was ouzo gold, raspberry liquor, pink grapefruit soda and mint leaves and the one called Sea Breeze, made with Gin, fresh lime, fresh orange cubes and soda. Guess who got what ;) 

Acropolis Museum Café Dionysiou Areopagitou 15, Athina, 117 42

When researching about the Acropolis, when to go, how to get tickets, etc, etc, the obvious question of “is the Acropolils museum worth a visit?” pops up. It is if you are super into history. Its greatly display showcases all the valuable stuff they removed from the Acropolis seeking for preservation. But, if you are like me and decide to go just for the real ruins per se avoiding an overflow of information, then the Acropolis and the other monuments spread out around Athens should do the trick. Although, there’s one thing not so many sites mention, and is that the Acropolis museum has a terrific terrace where to contemplate the Parthenon and a delicious seasonal menu to go with the view. We had some eggs, two delicious cappuccinos and the fantastic feta me meli - another Greek food dish that can be tasted as dessert or an entrée. Feta is wrapped in filo pastry before oven baked and honey is drizzled over it. The optimum balance between salty feta and sweet honey creates a mesmerizing taste. They served it with a tomato jam on the side instead of the honey and was absolutely delicious.  Da Vinci Ice-cream  various locations Bites&Kms Fav: 4 Selley Street, Athina, 10558 

Play it safe, avoid a heat stroke: have an ice-cream! And if it’s a gelato, even better. The creative cone flavors at Da Vinci match the delicious and unique ones from the gelatos so be sure to pick wisely, or come again and again to try them all!

Thea Terrace  Rooftop of Central Hotel Apollonos 23, Athina, 105 57

This was another fantastic, last minute Mau finding. It was so great, we ended up going twice. Close to Plaka but far enough from the crowd, this boutique hotel counts with a privilege terrace and rooftop bar from where we could see the sunset. It wasnt happy hour, but the drinks were so cheap and the prosecco was so good, we had two!

Nolan  33, Voulis 31, Athina 105 57

This place is definitely unique within the fusion restaurants I’ve been to. This is truly a delicious blend in between Greek, Asian and German cuisine, all the influences its owner has ingrained. As a Michelin recommendation, we left it aside pursuing Greek traditional tavernas, but it happens that after a while, you’re craving for something different like a burger or some pasta. What you don’t actually know is that what you need is a stop by Nolan. Once again, wondering in what we thought was a new, orthodox neighborhood, we ended up by its corner and its name rang a bell. We went in during a sunny Greek noon and we were lucky they were able to sit us regardless of not having a reservation. Minutes after, the restaurant got full, local artists started playing music on the streets and we were having a true fusion feast. We had some marinated tuna, a delicious octopus salad and some lamb dumplings. It was amazing, a must stop during your stayed in Athens. 

Taf Coffee Shop Emmanouil Benaki 7, Athina 106 78

This is one of the top coffee places I’ve ever been to. Not because its price, look or location, but because of the love and passion they put on each brew. This is how they described their daily special - hence, the coffee of my choice: “Rosebud double shot cap creaming feeling, smooth body caramel chocolate and nutmeg aroma. Taste of cherry and caramel with apricot tangerine and almond nuts.”  

Mind the Cup  Emiliou Veaki 29, Peristeri 121 34

I took the train to Peristeri, just outside Athens, to check out what according to Buzzfeed “one of the coffee shops around the world you must check out before you die” Happily, it didnt disappoint. Not only the little town is super cozy, where I got a pair of amazing leather boots, but also, took the morning to write and to enjoy this wonderful plaza where Mind you Cup is located. It reminded me of old Montevideo, the city where I was raised when I was younger. I keep specifying this time and space issue since nowadays it’s quite different. It also reminded me of an out-side the tourist epicenter mini towns around the north of Spain or outside Porto, in Portugal. Even a “ciudad del interior” or countryside town from Uruguay.  Even the tree to which shadow I was sitting and enjoying, was the same Willow tree I had at my school. It was a beautiful time travel adventure, on top of the delicious European house white wine, the home made pizza and the great service from the place. The menu looks like an old and corky newspaper and is not in English, which makes the adventure even more authentic, but the gentle waitress will assist you with all your questions. People were selling their crafts and some plants, and I couldn’t resist to get an envy eye anklet. On my way back, I found this delicious and traditional dessert Greek people have for Christmas, but I could have them every day with a glass of milk. They are called Kourabiedes, a shortbread-type biscuit usually made with ground almonds, flavored with either brandy, vanilla, mastika or rose water and they are shaped into little cute balls. In the end, they are sprinkled with icing sugar and they are just to die for!

Avli - Agiou Dimitriou Agiou Dimitriou 12, Athina 105 54

In the historic triangle of Athens there is a small tavern in a backyard called Avli which means ‘backyard’. This place is kinda secret: more and more people are accessing to its charms due to TripAdvisor’s fantastic reviews - although it still is easy to miss if you don’t go specifically looking for it. Within a small alley, behind a not so charming door, you can hear loud voices, laughs and some Greek music in the background. If you dare to go inside, disregarding your first thought of “oh, this is a private house, I shouldn't trespass it”, the scenery you will see is like it came from the ’60s. Checkered tablecloths, traditional chairs, old photos and a makeshift kitchen create an authentic feeling reminiscent of old Athens.

The always smiling owner, Takis, has operated this tavern since 1985. He pretended to know me, and after a nice “Kalimera, I remember you, please sit”, I sat down on one of the last free tables of the alley. I sat down right next to Stellios, this wonderful old man who greet me with yellow prunes, peanuts and come other spicy snack while we both waited to be served. He ordered some cheese and tomato, while I ordered the delicious feta with olive oil and some grilled peppers which were outstanding. I was so excited that I decided to copy Stellios and ordered a beer, the first Greek beer during by whole trip was waiting for me on my last day, and I ordered a Manos. It was good - that’s how far my beer knowledge and palate goes: good, not good :D To thank him for the company and the snacks, I invited him two more rounds of beer, which of course I’m not sure what happened since my Greek wasn’t that fluid so I made the best I could with Takis, so let’s hope at least some of the cash went for another Manos and the rest as tip! The whole experience was amazing, Stellios told me about his family, his lovely wife and two kids, as well as about his dog in very broken English. I showed a picture of my parents and told him I lived in New York, but that I was from Uruguay, land of football and meat. Yeap... some have Aristotles, others have Benedetti, and both of us share a Manos. Yamas, Athens!

[emilys-study-abroad-in-greece]

Day Two

It is our second day in Athens. Today we all had our first class assignment, a map quiz over Greece and parts of the surrounding Mediterranean. Despite my lack of studying I got a 10/10, thanks Assasin’s Creed Odyssey and previous Greek and Mediterranean classes 😂

After our quiz and a brief instruction on water safety for when we go to the islands next week, we were giving three free hours to get some lunch and do some shopping. Before the group that I went with went to get lunch we stopped at a place famous for their traditional Greek leather sandals. It’s a family run shop originally started by a man called the Poet whose son now runs the shop. This shop has made sandals for people like Jackie O, Sarah Jessica Parker, Bob Saget, John Lennon, and Ringo Star. You can order custom sandals or pick from the styles they already have and then they’ll custom fit the sandals to your feet. They were 55 euros, but totally worth it for custom fit traditional Greek leather sandals. I’ll post a picture later. While out shopping I also got a mug (of course) and bought a couple shot classes for some people.

After our shopping trip we visited an archaeological site. This site was part of Ancient Gymnasia of Athens and the Lykeion. Aristotle, himself, taught here. After the site we went the Benaki museum. The museum used to be the home of a man who collected Greek artifacts. Eventually the house turned into a museum that has tons of Ancient Greek artifacts and other more modern artifacts. I will post pictures in another post. After we were done viewing the artifacts in the museum, a few of us decided to get dinner on the rooftop restaurant that the museum had. I had some greeattt chicken from this restuarant.

After we were done eating we made the long track back to our hotel and have pretty much settled down for the night. A group of 16 of us met at the rooftop bar to plan our trip to Santorini. Since this trip is optional we are in charge of the planning and expenses for the trip ourself. The 12 girls of our group got an air bnb at an apartment complex that is pretty nice and cheap and in one of the major cities. We are all super excited for this trip. It will be two nights in Santorini where we hope to visit the beaches and the volcano.

Tomorrow classes start. I have a mythology class from 10:30-11:20 and then a Day to Day life in Ancient Greece class from 11:30-12:20. After that I don’t have to meet with the group until 3 where we will be leaving to go see the Acropolis (where the Parthenon is) and the Acropolis museum. If it rains tomorrow, like it currently says it will, we may switch our plans and go to the National Archaeological museum instead.

Overall, today was a fund day filled with a lot of walking, but of course there will be a lot more walking in the future. Now I am ready to go to bed and have another day full of actual class time and museum and site excursions.

[fashionbooksmilano]

Thomas Hope

Drawings from Ottoman Istanbul

edited by Fani-Maria Tsigakou and Mina Moraitou

Sharjah Museum of Islamic Civilization, Sharjah 2017, 212 pages, 105 drawings and pictures,  ISBN 978-960-476-218-7

euro 45,00*

email if you want to buy :booksinprogressmilano@yahoo.it

The exhibition presents a rare collection of uniquely intricate, original drawings of Ottoman Istanbul towards the late 18th century created by Thomas Hope (1769-1831), a scion of a wealthy banking family, went on a Grand Tour, the traditional trip to Greece and Turkey for the young men of his class, during the last quarter of the 18th century.

When Hope visited Istanbul, he found a cosmopolitan city that was home to foreigners from Europe and beyond. Their presence, together with that of Muslim, Christian and Jewish subjects of the Ottoman Empire, helped to create the city’s wonderfully multicultural population. Hope drew some of the best-known mosques of the old city. Some of these were captured in individual drawings, while others were sketched towering over the city’s sprawling landscape of buildings. Thomas Hope spent around a year in the city, admiring and drawing the main attractions. His works remained in his library until his death in 1831. They were later sold off at auction by his family. Scholars believed they had been lost, however, they were in fact been purchased in the 1930’s by Antonis Benakis, founder of the Benaki Museum, and kept in the Museum Library.

  The Anglo-Arabic translation of the under the same title Greek edition, which was released to the occasion of the exhibition at the Sharjah Museum of Islamic Civilization, from November 2017 to February 2018  in collaboration with Benaki Museum in Athens, Greece

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[zoeyparker281]

BLACK OPS 3: LETS TALK ABOUT 그레잇게임 #3504

We will talk about this game stood the test of time and it’s now being offered by some of the best providers the iGaming community has ever seen. What’s special about it, where can we find it online, and how to play Caribbean Stud Poker, we will leave no stone unturned. The oldest surviving cards in the world are four fragments found in the Keir Collection and one in the Benaki Museum. The earliest mention of Blackjack dates back to the late 16th and early 17th century. Jackpots will be paid after your ‘Bet’ and ‘Ante’ have been settled (see Progressive Jackpot Payouts; subject to Rules 7, 8 and 9).

When you run out of money, don’t borrow from family, friends or others so you can keep gambling. Decks with fewer than 52 cards are known as stripped decks.The piquet pack has all values from 2 through 6 in each suit removed for a total of 32 cards. nother growing form of Internet gambling is the so-called betting exchanges—Internet Web sites on which players make wagers with one another, with the Web site taking a small cut of each wager in exchange for organizing and handling the transaction. Among these, and the remaining numbers and possible bets, there are a myriad of systems and progressions that can be used with many combinations of numbers.

The game may have arisen during third and fourth centuries, during the period of the Northern and Southern dynasties. http://www.bbc.co.uk/search?q=퍼스트카지노 The Crystal fountain roundabout between the Town Hall and St Rémy de Baccarat Sometimes players may request to hop a whole number. The roll is invalid if either or both dice land in the boxman's bank, the stickman's bowl (where the extra three dice are kept between rolls), or in the rails around the top of the table where players chips are kept.

Slot machines are designed to be appealing to the senses of sight, touch, and sound—the noises of the machines are electronically tuned to the musical key of C to be pleasing to the ear. States have subsidized heavily the growth of the non-tribal gambling industry.Mr. Collins knew little of the game, but probably because he lacked these excellent instructions. 0-32-15-19-4-21-2-25-17-34-6-27-13-36-11-30-8-23-10-5-24-16-33-1-20-14-31-9-22-18-29-7-28-12-35-3-26

The initial and reset amount must also be in the Licensee's Submission and must be at least $10,000.Cover All Bonus Wager If players make the Cover All bonus, they must do so before the start of the round. At table games, each table has a rectangular sign detailing minimum and maximum bets. 선씨티게임 The center space is usually marked "Free" or "Free Space", and is considered automatically filled. Numbers are then drawn and the first person to have all five numbers in their column be drawn wins.

Another common special game requires players to cover the four corners. Access to the commune is by the Route nationale N59 from Bertrichamps in the south-east which passes through the heart of the commune east of the town and continues north-west to join the N333 south-east of Lunéville.Often, brick-and-mortar casinos will use red plastic for discard trays. Several American states amended their laws during the 1980s and ’90s to permit casinos, in some cases limited to those on riverboats.

Specifically, the sum of all the individual losses is used to fund the big jackpots. The Chateau de la Cristallerie (now Museum) at 6 Rue des Cristalleries (1764)Casinos that reduce paytables generally have to increase promotions to compensate and attract customers. Casinos may charge the vig up front thereby requiring the player to pay a vig win or lose, other casinos may only take the vig if the bet wins.

In the early stages of the gambling expansion, states that had casinos took in tax revenues from those that didn’t, since many residents of non-gambling states flocked to casinos in neighboring locales. For a century after its invention, craps was abused by casinos using unfair dice.The authors claimed that Cepheus would lose at most 0.001 big blinds per game on average against its worst-case opponent, and the strategy is thus so "close to optimal" that "it can't be beaten with statistical significance within a lifetime of human poker playing". In practice this can be observed as players respond to a roll such as a Hard Six with an immediate wager on the Hard Six.

[reigncruz246]

안전토토사이트 Strategy - Playing Safe

This deck was originally created to allow more players in a game of euchre. The oldest surviving cards in the world are four fragments found in the Keir Collection and one in the Benaki Museum. That ticket can be used in another machine or redeemed for cash at the cashier's cage or cash kiosk. Jokers first appeared in printed American decks in 1867, and by 1880, British card makers had followed suit, as it were.

Ironically, the graphic designers projected a harmonious relationship between the human figures and animals.True to the tradition of graphic design these cards conveyed ethical and moral messages as well as a social commentary. Eleven is called out as "yo" or "yo-leven" to prevent being misheard as "seven". An older term for eleven is "six five, no jive" because it is a winning roll. In comparison with other popular games, Roulette was created in the 18th century and Poker in the 19th century. The casino will have a progressive jackpot for this bet. A flush will get $50, a full house $100, a straight flush 10 percent of the progressive jackpot, and a royal flush the full jackpot. The jackpot keeps growing until there is a winner.

Remember - there is absolutely no way to win on the long term playing Blackjack without counting cards! http://www.bbc.co.uk/search?q=해외안전놀이터추천 According to Sklansky, he invented the game in 1982 under the moniker of “Casino Poker.” Furthermore, Sklansky claims he brought the game to Aruba and the name was changed. Dennis King is another person who claims to have invented Caribbean Stud Poker when he owned a hotel in Aruba. Gambling activities may include card, dice and random number games played on a table. roulette wheels are electronically monitored regularly to discover quickly any statistical deviation in their expected results.

When you have the best dealers the industry has to offer merely a click away, you don’t give it a second thought and take a seat at the table. Especially with a game like Caribbean Poker, a game that’s so easy to play even my eight-year-old stands to make money with it. It does take a certain amount of self-control, but it’s not impossible. To compensate for the increase in the number of spins, the digital slot machine produces the final outcomes of each spin faster. So who is correct? Both, in a way.On each spin of the wheel, the odds of red or black coming up are fifty-fifty. Many people believe this means the number of black results will equal the number of red results over the course of time they are playing the game.

So while the court cards with their elaborate costumes and antique icons resonate with a deep connection to the past, the rich cultural history of the playing card remains largely untapped. (Goggin, 2006) It is up to each individual player if an ace is worth 1 or 11. Face cards are 10 and any other card is its pip value. Casinos do not usually advertise payback percentages, leaving it up to the player to identify which video poker machines offer the best schedules.For generations of Americans, casino gambling meant Las Vegas -- and the name evoked either glamour or tacky glitz, depending on the listener.

The combined payout is 27:4 for 2, 12 and 3:1 for 3, 11. Each individual bet has the same payout as a single bet on the specific numbers, 30:1 for 2 and 12 minus the other three bets, 15:1 for 3 and 11 minus the other three bets. It isn't true: besides being a felony, it's also a fire hazard. On the eve of the First World War the city was home to the 20th Batailion of Foot Chasseurs at the Haxo barracks - some buildings of which remain today. 온라인카지노 There are two different ways to calculate the odds and house edge of this bet.

This is the oldest poker family; the root of the game as now played was a game known as Primero, which evolved into the game three-card brag, a very popular gentleman's game around the time of the American Revolutionary War and still enjoyed in the U.K. today. This reduces the maximum payout percentage to 95.00% for players betting five coins per hand to receive the Royal Flush bonus. In some forms of early American roulette wheels, there were numbers 1 through 28, plus a single zero, a double zero, and an American Eagle.They are simple to operate and can offer large payouts for small wagers.

Because of the large numbers of cards played by each player, most halls have the players sit at tables to which they often fasten their cards with adhesive tape. Treat your gambling bankroll as an entertainment expense and budget accordingly. They are numbered such that they can never throw a pair, and that the blue one will show a higher value than the red one exactly half the time. One such scheme could be 222555 on the red die and 333444 on the blue die.Many games made since the 1960s feature "tulip" catchers, which have small flippers that open to expand the width of the catcher.

[camillasgirl]

The Prince of Wales and The Duchess of Cornwall to visit France and Greece 7th - 11th May 2018

• The tour, undertaken at the request of The British Government, will highlight the UK's strong bilateral ties with both countries;

• In France, Their Royal Highnesses will emphasise the UK and France's commitment to counter terrorism and security, education and charitable enterprise as well as the country's rich history in the areas of food and viticulture;

• In Greece Their Royal Highnesses will celebrate the UK and Greece's longstanding maritime and military relationship, youth opportunity, charitable and education connections;

The Prince of Wales and The Duchess of Cornwall will start the visit in Nice, where they will commemorate the attack which took place on Le Promenade des Anglais in July 2016. The Prince and The Duchess will also attend a reception to celebrate the longstanding links between Nice and the UK, including the fact that Her Majesty Queen Victoria regularly visited the city throughout her lifetime.

In Lyon Their Royal Highnesses will jointly attend a VE Commemoration to mark 73 years since the end of the Second World War in Europe.

His Royal Highness will visit The International Police Organization (INTERPOL) to highlight the UK and France's role in international police cooperation. Their Royal Highnesses will also attend an event to celebrate the city's rich culinary history.

Lyon hosts France's second largest student population, and His Royal Highness will visit the ISARA University specialising in agronomy (the science of using plants for food, fuel and fibre), food and environmental studies.

The Duchess of Cornwall, a longstanding supporter of charities helping survivors of domestic violence and sexual abuse, will visit a local charity providing assistance to women.

Their Royal Highnesses will start their first official joint visit to Greece with a wreath-laying ceremony at The Monument to the Unknown Soldier, before receiving an official welcome at The Presidential Mansion and Prime Minister's Residence.  Later that evening The Prince and The Duchess will attend an Official Dinner hosted by The President of The Hellenic Republic and Mrs Vlasia Pavlopoulou. The Prince of Wales will be received by The Archbishop of Athens the following morning. During their second day in Greece Their Royal Highnesses will visit the Commonwealth War Graves Cemetery in Phaleron where His Royal Highness will lay a wreath. The Prince will then visit Piraeus for a series of engagements to celebrate the UK and Greece's longstanding maritime relationship. This will include a visit to HMC Valiant, a border-force 'cutter' currently deployed in the Aegean Sea, and working with The Hellenic Coastguard to provide security and search and rescue support.

The Prince will also visit the Averoff, a Greek armoured cruiser which forms part of The Hellenic Navy and which played a key part during the First and Second World Wars. His Royal Highness will also be able to see the HNS Olympias, a full-scale replica of an ancient Greek 'Trireme'.

The spouse of the Greek Prime Minister has invited Her Royal Highness to join her on a visit to the Benaki Museum, which showcases Greek civilisation and tradition.  The Duchess will then visit the scenic Kaisariani Monastery located on Mount Hymettus overlooking Athens, where school children will be undertaking educational reading activities to mark Athens UNESCO World Book Capital 2018.

The Duchess will then visit a local shelter in Athens which provides assistance for survivors of domestic violence and sexual abuse.

Their Royal Highnesses will end their visit to Greece on Friday 11th May with a visit to Crete where The Prince and The Duchess will visit the Knossos archaeological site. Their Royal Highnesses will also visit a local charity which helps to find accommodation for migrant families in Crete, helping them to integrate with the local community.

Their Royal Highnesses will end their visit to Greece with a celebration of local produce, culture and heritage.  

[elladastinkardiamou]

Antonis Benakis and his sister, the author Penelope Delta, of the eminent Greek–Alexandrian Benakis family, friends of Cavafy, Alexandria, 1891.

(Source: @CCavafy)

[lilybeige25]

LIVE 코인카지노 GAMES - Sunday stream! #522

The Mameluke deck contained 52 cards comprising four “suits”: polo sticks, coins, swords, and cups. https://www.washingtonpost.com/newssearch/?query=우리카지노계열 With a total of 10, he should double down unless the dealer shows a ten-card or an ace. Outside bets will always lose when a single or double zero comes up. However, the house also has an edge on inside bets because the pay outs (including the original player's bet) are always set at 36 to 1 when you mathematically have a 1 out of 38 (1 out of 37 for French/European roulette) chance at winning a straight bet on a single number. This is the oldest poker family; the root of the game as now played was a game known as Primero, which evolved into the game three-card brag, a very popular gentleman's game around the time of the American Revolutionary War and still enjoyed in the U.K. today.

This is a fast-paced and exciting form of bingo typically played in fraternal organizations. As different individual points are made by the shooter, they will be marked on the craps layout with a fire symbol. However, many countries use other, traditional types of playing card, including those that are German, Italian, Spanish and Swiss-suited. Tarot cards (also known locally as Tarocks or tarocchi) are an old genre of playing card that is still very popular in France, central and Eastern Europe and Italy. Asia, too, has regional cards such as the Japanese hanafuda. One standard deck of 52-cards is used.  The cards are usually shuffled by an automatic shuffle machine which speeds up the game  (while one deck is being used, the other deck is being shuffled by the automatic shuffler).

The oldest surviving cards in the world are four fragments found in the Keir Collection and one in the Benaki Museum. In games of pure chance, each instance is a completely independent one; that is, each play has the same probability as each of the others of producing a given outcome. The pip  cards were  produced  by  thestencil  technique  only  using  the  samered as on the court cards, and black. French-Swiss cards comes only in decks of 36 with no ranks from two to five.The innovative Portuguese pattern is a Parisian derivative from Germany.

Other casinos require the minimum bet to win at $20 even at the lowest minimum tables in order to match the $1 vig, this requires a $40 bet. Gambling for cash is illegal in Japan, but the widespread popularity of low-stakes pachinko gambling in Japanese society has enabled a specific legal loophole allowing it to exist.Casino hotels—that is, hotels with a casino on the premises—fall under code 721120. They typically offer a variety of amenities, including dining, entertainment, swimming pools, and conference and convention rooms. In practice this can be observed as players respond to a roll such as a Hard Six with an immediate wager on the Hard Six.

A put bet is a bet which allows players to increase or make a Pass line bet after a point has been established (after come-out roll). Therefore, the house edge is 5.26%. After 10 spins, betting 1 unit per spin, the average house profit will be 10 × 1 × 5.26% = 0.53 units. European roulette wheels have only one "zero" and therefore the house advantage (ignoring the en prison rule) is equal to 1/37 = 2.7%. 온라인카지노 A player may wish to make multiple different bets. For example, a player may be wish to bet $1 on all hard ways and the horn. If one of the bets win the dealer may automatically replenish the losing bet with profits from the winning bet. In fact, for the expert player who mathematically plays a perfect game and is able to count cards, the odds are sometimes in that player's favor to win.

If the face-up card is not a ten-card or an ace, they do not look at the face-down card until it is the dealer's turn to play. If the total is 17 or more, it must stand. If the total is 16 or under, they must take a card.Where does the myth come from? The Godfather author Mario Puzo's novel Fools Die featured a fictional casino, Xanadu, that pumped in oxygen, perhaps leading readers to think it was a common practice. These numbers make up the two slices of the wheel outside the tiers and voisins. They contain a total of 8 numbers, comprising 17-34-6 and 1-20-14-31-9.

The dealer also deals themselves one card face up. In 2012, Nova Scotia began to mandate that users enroll in an account card system known as My-Play in order to use VLTs. Balance gambling with other leisure activities. Gambling shouldn’t be the only activity you do in your spare time. Vintage machines vary in pocket location and strategy with the majority having a specific center piece that usually contains win pockets.

Many studies have utilized the economic concept of “cost” to objectively measure and analyze social impact phenomena; thus the term “social cost” has become the dominant medium to identify the strength and dimension of social impacts. In such games the best hand contains the lowest cards rather than the highest cards; some variations may be further complicated by whether or not hands such as flushes and straights are considered in the hand rankings.Some clubs allow players to redeem points for cash; others offer meals, rooms, or merchandise. Ohio, for example, has a so-called "Voluntary Exclusion" program for gamblers looking to kick the habit that allows them to ban themselves for either a year, five years, or life.

[konstanka]

ethnography / field research

July and August 2019 I visited events, gatherings, interactive installations and presentations that informed me about what others were/are doing with regards to the field I am working in. Here I share findings from a few of them:

Immersive walk: Tracing Erased Memories: A Parallel walk of London and Cairo

(By the NarrativeCollective) Immersing the viewer in two cities at once, this work traces the political events that took place decades ago. they choose this form of communicating with the viewer to find connections and parallelisms between the two cities. This walk brought some interesting insight when it comes to screen and live interactions: the process of physically walking and digitally walking in another city adds a very interesting layer of presence vs. absence, existence in both worlds at once, and it is a valid form to consider for future designs and engaging the audience. 

AudibleHag: Retelling English Folk tales through modern storytelling

This event hosted by Audible was valuable for my research for one purpose: the ‘retelling’ of old tales. Taking classic folk tales and reviving them by making them ‘current’. It made me consider what current might mean, if taking stories that took place many years ago and rewriting them to make sense today is current, then what happens to the true stories? Where they ever true? 

Shubbak festival: conference talks

Writers from the Middle East, finding their identity and a new sense of what home means to them. They read extracts from their novels and told their journeys and experiences migrating. Talking to some of the writers, they gave me a sense that personal identity for them is deeply rooted into culture and religion. Through this reflection, I started talking to my Greek family about how we view religion in comparison to other cultures and ethnicities, and how closely rooted it is to our celebrations, rituals and family gatherings. This is when I started looking into belief as a form of identity, an additional factor that defines who we are. 

In addition to these, I visited many photography galleries dealing with migrant identity and diaspora. I went to Athens Photo Festival 2019, hosted in the Benaki Museum in Athens, where multiple artists raised questions regarding connections with generations, objects and what happens when they are passed down to us, insider/ outsider perception, and cultural norms ‘forming’ your identity. In general terms, these events made me understand the power of photo journalism and documentary, as forms of expressing the surreal within the reality people live in. The artists act as observers yet, they have a very interesting relationship with their subject, testing the boundaries, evaluating the morality of their actions as researchers on other individuals’ lives.  

[franekdziduch-cas-blog]

Activity and Creativity - Trip to Greece continues (15 - 22 August, 2019)

During this time, I visited many ancient monuments, as well as some important museums. The museum I liked the most was Benaki, exhibiting Greek history and the works of Avigdor Arikha. I also went running with my family in the mornings!!

[later-is-now]

Lernen. Von wem? D14

“Von Athen lernen” ist der Titel der aktuellen DOCUMENTA. Die D14 wird - auch wegen der Tatsache, dass sie erstmalig außerhalb von Kassel stattfindet - sehr kontrovers diskutiert, Grund genug, uns selber ein Bild zu machen. Ab nach Athen. Heimspiel ;-)

Drei Tage Zeit, vier Locations und was uns sonst noch so über den Weg läuft.

Die D14 Karte zeigt zwar fast 50 Orte in Athen, die meisten davon sind aber auch unabhängig der DOCUMENTA einen eigenen Besuch wert.

Wir starten im EMST. Es ist das Nationale Museum für Zeitgenössische Kunst und Hauptausstellungsort der D14. 

1997 hatte in Athen die Betreibergesellschaft der U-Bahn das ehemalige Gebäude der Brauerei Fix erworben um an dessen Stelle ein Park&Ride-Parkhaus zu errichten. Architekturfreunde hielten das Bauwerk besetzt und forderten stattdessen eine kulturelle Nutzung. Schließlich wurde ein Kompromiss erzielt, die Hälfte wurde abgerissen und ermöglichte den Bau einer Tiefgarage, die andere Hälfte wurde 2000 dem Staat überlassen mit der Bedingung der kulturellen Nutzung. Ab 2003 wurden Ausstellungen des neuen Nationalen Museum für Zeitgenössische Kunst in der Ruine gezeigt, von 2007 bis 2013 wurde das Gebäude saniert und zum Museum ausgebaut. Interimsweise war es bis 2014 im Gebäude des Athener Odeion untergebracht. (Quelle Wikipedia).

Eintritt 8,00 Euro, 4 Etagen, schöne Architektur, White Cube Atmosphäre. Für uns Standard. Für Griechenland HighEnd. Nun, es ist gerade neu eröffnet. Schauen wir in 3 Jahren noch einmal ;-)

Ein Roter Faden, eine Klammer, etwas, was die verschiedenen Arbeiten zusammenhält? Fehlanzeige. Dieser Eindruck wird sich später weiter bestätigen. Ist aber auch egal. Warum und wieso sollten Arbeiten von 100 Künstlern aus den letzten 5 Dekaden einen Roten Faden vorweisen? Wir erfreuen uns der allgegenwärtig freundlichen Menschen, die sichtlich stolze Gastgeber sind. 

Taxis werden uns für 2,00 bis maximal 7,00 Euro die nächsten Tage von einer Location zur nächsten bringen. Zu Galerien, Restaurants, zu unserem Hotel. Keine bessere Fortbewegungsmöglichkeit, wenn nicht entsprechende Streiks die Busse und die Metro gerade lahmlegen! Dann läuft auf den Straßen Athens nichts mehr. 

Nächste Station das Odeion (Athener Konservatorium). Auch hier empfangen uns strahlende Gesichter. Der Eintritt ist frei. 30 Minuten nach Ankunft wird klar: DAS IST DER ORT!

Völlig unvorbereitet auf das, was wir vorfinden erfragen wir die Geschichte dieses Gebäudes. Nur Wenige wissen Bescheid. 

Das weithin als Odeion bekannte Athener Konservatorium ist Teil eines größeren städtischen Bebauungsplans, der nicht realisiert wurde. Der Entwurf, mit dem der Architekt Ioannis Despotopoulos 1959 den 1. Preis im Wettbewerb für ein Kulturzentrum in Athen gewann, gehört zu den überzeugendsten Vorhaben der modernen griechischen Architektur. Es treibt die Vision eines mitteleuropäischen Rationalismus voran und auch die Bestrebungen einer weltoffenen Kulturpolitik, die in der Nachkriegszeit aufkamen. Nach Despotopoulos’ Idee sollten im Zentrum Athens ein Nationaltheater, ein Kongresszentrum, ein Museum, eine Bibliothek und ein Freilufttheater in enger Nachbarschaft entstehen. Doch der umfassendere Plan wurde nicht umgesetzt. (Quelle: DOCUMENTA 14). So steht dieses Gebäude seit den 60ern zum Teil ohne Nutzung!!! Als wir etwa 3 Stockwerke erst in die Tiefe gehen und im sogenannten Keller stehen, stockt der Atem. Eine riesige Halle!

Die Decke sieht so aus als hätten man im Obergeschoss eine gigantische Badewanne eingelassen. Eine Mulde. Wir stehen darunter. Was ist darüber?

Ein Amphitheater! Roher Beton! Keine Beleuchtung, keine Sitzkissen. Nichts. Seit den 60er Jahren. Unfassbar!

Kein Bild und auch kein Video kann die Gänsehaut wiedergeben, die einen an diesem Ort überfällt. Auf der Rückseite der “Bühne” laufen auf einem riesigen LED Band (Ticker) Aktienkurse. Lautsprecher, wie ein Chor im Raum verteilt, geben Klagelieder wieder. Frauenstimmen, süß, schmerzerfüllt und archaisch greifen durch die Gehörgänge tief in unsere Seelen. Wenn es einen Ort dieser DOCUMENTA hier in Athen zu besuchen gilt, dann diesen.

Wir tauchen wieder auf die Oberfläche auf um in den nächsten Keller abzusteigen. Dieser wird bereits durch eine Kultur- & Kunst-Initiative regelmäßig bespielt. Auch hier ist die Architektur berauschend. Die Räume sind niedriger und verspielt verwinkelt. Hier wird deutlich, dass alle Arbeiten und Installationen Bezug nehmen auf den Inhalt/Zweck des Gebäudes: Musik.

Eine sehr smarte Installation im Innenhof des Kellers beschäftigt uns länger.

Ein Riesenhaufen Müll türmt sich auf. Davor eine Art Sortierbank, davor eine hydraulische Presse, davor das eigentliche Kunstwerk. Oder doch umgekehrt? Wir sammeln die Information wie Müllsammler das Weggeworfene. Auch der Künstler hat Müll gesammelt. Um Athen herum. Die Besucher dürfen an dieser Stelle ihre Lieblingsfunde aus dem Haufen aussuchen. Bis zu 15 Objekte werden zwischen den Seiten eines Blanko-Buchs platziert. Jetzt kommt die Presse ins Spiel. Alles wird mit gewaltiger Kraft zusammengedrückt. Die weggeworfenen Fragmente unseres Konsums erzeugen Reliefe im Buch. Das Buch wird eingeschweißt und kann für 80,00 Euro mitgenommen werden. So geht Müllexport ;-) 

Station 3. ASFA (Hochschule der Bildenden Künste). 

Am Eingang der Hochschule der Bildenden Künste Athen in der Pireos-Straße stößt man auf das griechische Heldensprichwort Ένας στο Χώμα χιλιάδες στον Αγώνα (Einer in der Erde, Tausende auf dem Schlachtfeld). Komisch verfremdet, lautet es nun so: Ένας στο MoMA χιλιάδες στον Αγώνα (Einer im MoMA, Tausende auf dem Schlachtfeld). Es handelt sich um eine augenzwinkernde Anspielung auf das Museum of Modern Art in New York, die den Horizont künstlerischen Erfolgs einebnet. Die ASFA, die auf die 1836 gegründete Königliche Kunsthochschule zurückgeht, verlegte 1992 die Bereiche Bildende Kunst, Kunsttheorie und Kunstgeschichte in die Räume der ehemaligen Textilfabrik der Familie Sikiarides. (Quelle: DOCUMENTA 14)

Größer könnte der Kontrast an einem Ort nicht sein. Im Komplex der ehemaligen Fabrik ist der reguläre Betrieb in z.T. sehr runtergekommenen Gebäuden untergebracht. Es sieht mehr nach einem von Kreativen informell besetztem Ort als nach einer Bildungsinstitution aus. Gut, vielleicht sind wir (weiter im Westen) etwas zu verwöhnt... ;-)

Ein Besuch der Örtlichkeit lohnt sich für kunstinteressierte Menschen auch außerhalb der DOCUMENTA. Die Murals sind gigantisch und der Kaffee in der Hochschul-Kantine ein Muss.

Die Ausstellungshalle dagegen ist ein geschliffener Diamant mit Top-Galerie Qualitäten. Groß, großartig. Auffällig: alle Beleuchtungselemente hängen wie mit der Laserwasser-Waage auf einer Linie. Wir konnten nicht herausfinden, ob dies immer so ist oder ob der aktuelle Einfluss der DOCUMENTA sich an solchen Details manifestiert ;-)

Zwischen Kassel und Athen wird Schach gespielt! Nettes verbindendes Element. Versteckt hinter schweren Perlen-Vorhängen.

Station 4: Benaki Museum - Annex Pireos-Strasse .

Es gehört zu unseren Lieblingsmuseen, denn hier haben wir bereits einige schöne Ausstellungen erlebt. Die Vorfreude wird allerdings jäh gestoppt. Der aktuelle Streik einiger Verbände trifft auch uns: Heute geschlossen! Arbeitskampf. Was für ein Krampf! Dafür ist der Eintritt am kommenden Tag und bei unserem nächsten Versuch frei. Kleine Wiedergutmachung :-)

Das Benaki-Museum wurde 1930 von dem Sammler Antonis Benakis gegründet, der einer bedeutenden Familie der griechischen Diaspora entstammte. Sein Vater Emmanouil Benakis war ein griechischer Kaufmann und Politiker, der nach Alexandria ausgewandert war, wo er ein Vermögen mit Baumwolle machte. Nach Griechenland zurückgekehrt, wurde er 1914 zum Bürgermeister von Athen gewählt und half nach dem Krieg in Kleinasien bei der Wiederansiedlung von Flüchtlingen. Zu seinen sechs Kindern gehörten die Schriftstellerin Penelope Delta sowie Antonis, der in Alexandria geboren wurde, wo er mit dem Sammeln begann. In den späten 1920er Jahren ließ sich auch Antonis Benakis in Griechenland nieder und stiftete dort seine gesamte Sammlung dem Staat. Das aus dieser Schenkung hervorgegangene Benaki-Museum gilt mit seinen sechs Dependancen, vier Archiven und einer umfangreichen Bibliothek nach wie vor als eines der wichtigsten Museen des Landes. Heute besteht die Sammlung aus mehr als 500.000 Objekten, die das gesamte Spektrum der griechischen Kunst und Kultur umfassen; sie wird ergänzt durch Beispiele islamischer, präkolumbischer, afrikanischer und chinesischer Kunst. Das Museum bietet eine einzigartige Darstellung der griechischen Zivilisation und interpretiert ihre künstlerischen und intellektuellen Aspekte im Dialog mit Entwicklungen auf der ganzen Welt. (Quelle: DOCUMENTA 14)

Wir tauchen ein um recht flott wieder aufzutauchen. Hmmm. So richtig will hier nichts zünden.

Wir erfahren, dass neben den DOCUMENTA Räumen noch eine weitere Ausstellung läuft. Die wiederum hat es in sich. Das Gleichgewicht ist wiederhergestellt. Es ist allerdings das erste Mal, dass wir mit den Dingen nicht richtig glücklich sind. Man muss nicht alles verstehen. Und schon mal gar nicht muss alles gefallen. Aber wenn es gar nicht zündet? Und die Parallel-Ausstellung eher das erwartete Niveau vorhält?...

Wir brauchen ein Gegenmittel und entscheiden uns noch einmal das Odeion zu besuchen. Nach einer kurzen Pause und einer schnellen Taxifahrt sind wir dort, wo es sich wirklich lohnt zu sein. Klasse!

Zu viele Stimmen kritisieren die aktuelle DOCUMENTA in Athen. Zu unrecht finden wir. Zumal die Stimmen häufig von Menschen stammen, die noch nicht einmal vor Ort waren. Schwätzer! 

Wir hatten einen Grund genau diese Reise anzutreten und genau diesen Aufenthalt zu organisieren. Es war die DOCUMENTA 14. Wir haben viele spannende Orte und durchaus eine Reihe sehr interessanter Arbeiten erleben dürfen. Es ist die DOCUMENTA 14. Ist der meta-philosophische Diskurs und das heilige Blabla um die Kunst wirklich so entscheidend für den Genuss der Gastfreundschaft und Hilfsbereitschaft all dieser Menschen, die unseren Aufenthalt so positiv geprägt haben? Nein. Wir haben es sehr genossen und fühlen uns bereichert.

Sind gespannt auf Kassel nun! Der nächste DOCUMENTA 14 Beitrag folgt dann im Juli ;-)

Folgt uns auf Facebook und auf Twitter! Wir folgen der Kunst ;-)