#Bioactive cork

[i-m-snek]

How do I explain to my gecko she needs to stop eating the bugs in her bioactive because she is getting overweight

That's the most difficult part of bioactives with lizards/geckos for sure ;.; Genuinely, double up on leaf litter if you can, get some extra cork bark pieces and set them flat down in the dirt, and just provide as much hiding space for the isopods as possible. Hopefully that will slow down her snacking 😂 Tip Jar

[averyghe]

CHAVRONIANS – A species of large mammals from the planet Chavronia, known for their resilience and warlike culture, in which both males and females participate in ritual battles. They possess a unique medical practice called wart-growing. By bathing in the bioactive waters of their planet’s hot springs, Chavronians develop layers of warts that house populations of bacteria, viruses, and fungi. These organisms, through contact with the blood, mutate and act as vaccines when needed. The ancient hot springs are maintained by the Rurig Monks.

XID – A species from the jungle moon of Cleopsys, known for their natural camouflage. The color and texture of their exoskeletons closely resemble the bark of the cork trees in their rainforest habitat. Xid are so adept at blending in that a person could be surrounded by them without realizing it. In addition to their bark-like skin, they possess a conical brain that grants them telepathic abilities, effectively making them invisible to nearby life forms. Though vegetarians by nature, they use this ability as a defense mechanism, particularly when their habitat is threatened by external visitors. This makes Xid some of the galaxy’s most effective guerrilla fighters.

[jasperthehatchet]

Solarpunk jewelry 🌱🌻🌿🌟 (sorry for the awful photo quality)

Some earrings:

Some necklace pendants:

And some pocket gardens (not bioactive)

These are so fun to make

[Image ID: there's two images of the earrings I made, in the first one I'm holding three pairs of round glass bottle earrings with corks, they are full of dried moss in the bottom and stuffed with pink and white dried flowers that are pushed into the moss beds to look like they're growing inside. In the second image I'm holding a pair of long cylindrical glass bottle earrings with corks. There's moss stuffed into the bottoms with a single sprig of a green plant stuck in the moss and "growing" up to the top of the bottle. The corks for all the earrings have a metal loop in them to the bottles can be worn.

The next picture is of three larger necklace pendants in my hand, they're all larger cylindrical glass corked bottles filled with three different arrangements of rainbow dried plants and flowers. There's bigger rainbow flowers and bigger green leaves, and some sprigs of really small white and pink flowers to add detail and variety. These bottles have metal loops in the corks as well.

And the last image is of four larger cylindrical glass vials with metal screw-on caps. They're completely stuffed with moss and multicolored dried plants and flowers. There's a little bit of room near the top of each of them but most of the space is filled with plants and there's no metal loops in the lids. So they just look like little pocket terrariums. The colors seen the most clearly in these images are green, red, blue, purple, pink, and yellow. End ID]

[microcosmicobservations]

The cashier at the craft store asked me what I planned on doing with the miniature corked bottle. I didn't want to tell her, but I couldn't think of a different response fast enough. "Well," I said, "I thought it would be funny to put a mini terrarium in a terrarium." She didn't quite understand my enthusiasm.

Anyway, here is my Terrarium Experiment 1.0. I wanted an indoor project for the winter, something I could watch and check the progress on. I eventually would like to make a bioactive terrarium with springtails and isopods, but I fully expect to fail at this a few times first and would feel bad if I killed off a bunch of arthropods.

[volchonika]

24x18x36 bioactive vivarium in progress. I think I started this one at the end of February, and it's coming along! Next step is to populate the cork bark with moss and build a "rock" bridge for arboreal basking. Not married to this idea, but I think it will be home to a green anole someday soon-ish. (This is a redemption arc for me, green anoles were my first reptile as a kid and I didn't have the tools or resources to care for them properly, so I'd like to give one a super great life now.)

[onenicebugperday]

Hello! I have a garden snail that had lots of babies and was hoping for some advice please! :) I want to make their enclosure as comfy as possible for them but I don't know how. Do they prefer dark environments? Hidey holes? What kind of substrate is best? Etc. Thank you!

(I'm in Southern California)

Congrats on your snabies! Firstly I would not take any substrate or decor for the tank from outside unless you want a lot of hitchhiker creatures in your snail tank. If you do, you'll want to bake it first.

A standard 10 (or larger) gallon aquarium with a mesh lid works great, but you'll want to modify the lid to cover most of the mesh to keep the inside humid. I just bought a squeeze tube of silicone and attached some plastic sheeting inside the lid to cover about 75% of the mesh.

Substrate can be any sort of animal-safe soil-like substrate - so soils meant for bioactive reptile and amphibian enclosures or for isopods. Repti-soil, Creature Soil, organic potting mix, etc. I personally have my snails in with my millipedes, and use a combination of eco earth and Josh's Frogs milli mix - can't recommend milli mix enough! Josh's Frogs ABG mix or isopod substrate would also be appropriate.

No matter which soil you choose, it should be 4-5 inches deep both to hold humidity and for burrowing. 10 quarts will fill a 10 gallon aquarium to the proper depth.

As for decor, I would avoid rocks since snails WILL climb the glass and other decor and probably will fall off from time to time. Rocks can shatter their shells. I would stick to wood - any aquarium safe wood is fine. Cork bark, mopani, spider wood, etc. I'd also recommend some dry/dead reptile-type sphagnum moss to keep up humidity and for nibbling, and some kind of leaf litter - I buy bags of dry/brown live oak leaves on amazon for pretty cheap. My snails don't seem to hide in holes or crevices much - when they're not active, they mostly hang out on the lid or the top glass of the tank.

You do not need lighting or heating unless your house gets particularly cold in the winter - they may be less active if it's too cold. You can put a low watt reptile heating pad on the side of the tank to keep the temp up around 70+ if need be. They are primarily active at night, so if you want to see what they're up to, a small light that doesn't give off heat near the tank would be okay.

Most important is humidity. Get all of the substrate and moss damp as you put it into the tank with distilled water. I use a reptile mister bottle and buy gallons of distilled water at the grocery store. They last a long time so not a big investment. You'll also have to mist the whole enclosure probably daily, maybe twice daily. It should be moist and humid but not sopping wet. Don't let the substrate dry out entirely. Occasionally you may have to stick your finger into the soil to make sure it's staying damp under the surface.

And finally, snails need calcium for their shells! I occasionally dust the top of the substrate with powdered reptile calcium, or you can throw a cuttlebone in there for them to nibble on.

Here's a list of safe/not safe foods for snails.

If you ever have more questions about setup that I didn't answer here, feel free to IM me! Happy to share creature keeping tips.

[hazel2468]

Alright.

I have spent a... Not inconsiderable amount of money. But...

The enclosure is arriving next week. The supplies for most of the hardscape are arriving... probably next week? As is a silicone gun so I can seal the enclosure and it can be bioactive.

Hoping this will scratch the itch. Because right now? I'm eyeing Reaper Man's enclosure and thinking about giving him an upgrade to a more decorated enclosure like I did for Dancer... I honestly think he might benefit from some cork bark to climb on.

[entei]

ball python, leopard gecko, and ranchula enclosures more details under cut

ball python: 40 gallon enclosure. newly bioactive, featuring a fern and isopod colony. couple inches of substrate mix (includes coco fiber, peat moss, fir bark, etc) topped with mosses, leaf litter, and cork bark. sits around 70-80% humidity. 2 hides, used to have 3 but she never used the last one. the uvb lamp is mostly for the plant, but i do like giving my animals a day/night cycle so its helpful for that too. heat mat is on the left side, and thats usually the hide she prefers to hang out in. i really like checking back and seeing the new holes the isopods have eaten into the bark :P

leopard gecko: 20 gallon enclosure. half sand-soil mix, half packed-soil mixed in with things like cork bark and other padding for variation, firmer in some places than others. the sand provides digging material, something he enjoys doing often... it always looks different when i check in. theres some leaf litter and mosses on the soil side purely for more texture variation. the humidity matches my room which tends to be around 30-40%. colorado is dry. 4 hides across the enclosure. 2 succulents under the uvb lamp.

egg is actually featured in the photo, see if you can find him

taranchula: very simple in comparison to the other two. just coco fiber and some leaf litter. he has set up in the log hide and is webbing it to his liking, doesnt leave often.

[ekolabaus]

Isopod Care Guide

🐛 Isopod Care Guide Isopods, also known as “roly-polies” or “woodlice”, are hard-working detritivores that break down organic matter and help maintain a healthy, clean environment in bioactive terrariums. Species like grey isopods (Porcellio scaber), orange isopods (Porcellionides pruinosus), and powder blue isopods (Porcellionides pruinosus ‘Powder Blue’) are particularly popular for their durability and easy care. Quick Summary Environment: Moist substrate, 60–90% humidity, temps around 18–26°C   Diet: Leaf litter, veggies, and a protein source (like fish flakes)   Use: Clean-up crew in terrariums or cultured in separate containers   What Are Isopods? Isopods are small, terrestrial crustaceans that naturally live in leaf litter, under logs, and other moist, dark areas. In terrariums, they play an important role in the cleanup crew, consuming decaying plant matter, mould, and leftover food. Common Species Grey Isopods (Porcellio scaber) Hardy and fast-breeding Great for beginners High tolerance to fluctuating humidity Orange Isopods (Porcellionides pruinosus – Orange morph) Active and quick-moving Excellent detritivores Prefer slightly higher protein in diet Powder Blue Isopods (Porcellionides pruinosus ‘Powder Blue’) Softer-bodied, slightly more sensitive High reproductive rate Great for delicate terrarium ecosystems Ideal Environment Humidity: Moderate to high (60–90%). Maintain moist and dry zones. Temperature: 18–26°C (room temperature to warm). Avoid cold drafts. Substrate: Layered substrate with leaf litter, decaying wood, and sphagnum moss. Coco coir or terrarium soil works well. Light: Indirect or low light. Isopods are photophobic and prefer hiding during the day. Cleaning & Maintenance Minimal effort required in closed systems — they eat waste, mould, and dead plant material. In open terrariums or culture tubs, remove excess food every few days to avoid overgrowth of mites or mould. Mist the enclosure lightly every 2–3 days (or as needed based on evaporation). Feeding Isopods will feed on: Leaf litter (oak, magnolia, etc.) Decaying wood Vegetable scraps (zucchini, carrot, cucumber) Protein sources like fish flakes, shrimp pellets, or a pinch of yeast (especially for orange & powder blue varieties) Calcium: Provide crushed cuttlebone or eggshells to support healthy moulting Feed in small amounts — a little goes a long way. Avoid overfeeding. Breeding All three species breed readily in the right conditions. Expect to see baby isopods (manchas) within a few weeks in a stable setup. Higher humidity and regular food encourage reproduction. Isopods in Terrariums Isopods thrive in closed or semi-closed terrariums with springtails. In exposed terrariums, population growth may slow, which helps prevent overcrowding. Together with springtails, they create a balanced, self-sustaining ecosystem by breaking down waste and keeping mould under control. Culturing Isopods Want to start your own colony? Use a plastic container with a ventilated lid and air holes. Add moist substrate (e.g. coco coir, sphagnum moss, leaf litter). Include bark or cork pieces for hiding spaces. Mist every few days to maintain humidity. Feed lightly with vegetables, fish flakes, or yeast. Culturing your own isopods means you’ll always have a clean-up crew ready for future terrariums! Final Notes Isopods are resilient, low-maintenance, and fascinating to watch. Whether you’re using them as part of a self-cleaning terrarium or culturing them on the side, they’re one of the best additions to any bioactive setup. Want to Learn More? Check out our Springtail Care Guide — perfect companions for your isopods New to bioactive setups? Start with our Beginner’s Guide to Terrariums Shop our isopod cultures — available in grey, orange, and powder blue! The post 🐛 Isopod Care Guide appeared first on Eko Lab Terrariums. Tags and categories: Care Instructions, care instructions, isopods via WordPress https://ift.tt/LkuO4DX May 25, 2025 at 08:41PM

[filmxella]

Bioactive Enclosure Building Process and Breakdown

Last week I went to my very first reptile expo with my friend and ended up buying a three year old crested gecko for $60 CAD. I did not have an enclosure set up so this was a rushed process! I temporarily housed him in a small enclosure while setting it up!

I first baked cork bark and Alder branches before hot gluing them to the glass of my enclosure. I reinforced the wood with silicone and waited for that to dry before using expanding foam. Below you can see before and after cutting the foam to shape.

I put on gloves and coated the sides and back of the enclosure with silicone and pressed coconut fiber and some bits of sphagnum moss into it (see pictures below).

My dad brought the enclosure to my room and I got started on the best parts! I created the drainage layer with aquarium gravel topped with activated charcoal and a mesh screen to keep my substrate separated.

I added the substrate (a mix of coconut fiber, sphagnum moss, worm castings, activated charcoal, and reptile bark) and planted tropical ferns and a trailing ficus! My other enclosure has lots of springtails so I added a handful of substrate from that enclosure to introduce them into this one.

I baked Alder leaves and cones that I collected from the forest for the leave litter (you can’t see it in the images unfortunately). After adding the digital thermometer and hydrometer and thoroughly misting and watering the plants, it was done! I will be adding springtails from my other enclosure right away.

Even though it was a rushed process, I am so satisfied with how the enclosure turned out! I am beyond happy that I decided to purchase another gecko! He is three years old and I named him Mork. :)

Cost Breakdown

(This excludes items I already had from previous projects and the gecko since this is a breakdown of enclosure cost)

$60.48 CAD - Cork bark and branches (from Reptile Expo)

$5 CAD - Daytime timer (from Reptile Expo)

$30 CAD - Dairy cow isopods (from Reptile Expo) Note, the dairy cow isopods will be bred in an isopod bin for a while before I add them to the enclosure.

$19.40 CAD - 50 lbs aquarium gravel (from Petsmart)

$194.20 CAD - 18”/18”/24” glass enclosure starter kit (from Petsmart)

$6.66 CAD - Gecko plastic feeding dishes (from Petsmart)

$48.73 CAD - silicone and expanding foam (from Amazon)

$22.37 CAD - tropical ferns (from Garden centre)

Total: $386.84 CAD

[oaresearchpaper]

Low-Cost Cultivation Protocol for Ganoderma lucidum

Abstract

Ganoderma lucidum commonly known as lingzhi mushroom, or reishi mushroom in some countries, is an edible mushroom known for its medicinal value. This study evaluated the optimum culture media, grain spawn and substrate formulation for the cultivation of G. lucidum. The use of different low-cost culture media, grains and substrate formulations in the preparation of pure cultures, grain spawn bags and fruiting bags of G. lucidum were tested. The largest mycelial diameter was observed in Potato Sucrose Agar (93.45mm) which was significantly higher among all the treatments used. It has very thick mycelial density. Cracked corn as spawning material had the shortest incubation period of 14 days, which showed significant difference compared to sorghum seeds and barley grains. The use of cracked corn also incurred the lowest cost and highest return of investment in grain spawn bag production. For fruiting bag production, substrate combination of 50% sawdust and 30% rice straw supplemented with 20% rice bran was the best formulation for fruiting bag production of G. lucidum which had the highest yield with a mean value of 91.30g and biological efficiency of 20.29%.

Introduction

Mushrooms are considered ultimate healthy food and dietary supplements. They contain proteins, carbohydrates, minerals, vitamins, saturated fatty acids, phenolic compounds, tocopherols, ascorbic acid and carotenoids (Ho et al., 2020). Thus, mushrooms can be used directly in the diet and promote health, taking advantage of both the additive and synergistic effects of all bioactive compounds present in it (Reis et al., 2011).

The cultivation of edible mushrooms could become a way to augment farm income while making use of crop-based residues. The growth of a variety of mushrooms requires different type of substrates and availability of different type of materials. Substrates such as logs, wood sawdust, rice straw and hull, banana leaves, maize stalk, and various grasses can all support mushroom growth (Philippoussis, 2009). In some parts of the Philippines, these substrates may not be available or are available at relatively high prices. Thus, mushroom growers are continuously searching for alternative substrates that may be more readily available or cost effective, or that may provide higher yield and better mushroom quality (Royse D et al., 2004).

Ganoderma lucidum (Curtis) P. Karst is a tropical, edible mushroom that is commonly known as “Reishi” in Japanese and “Lingzhi” in Chinese (Yang and Liau, 1998; Wagner et al., 2003). World-wide, Lingzhi occupies a major source of medicine that has been used for more than 2000 years (Azizi et al., 2012). Commercial G. lucidum products are available in various forms, such as powders, dietary supplements, and tea which are obtained from different parts of the mushroom, including mycelia, spores, and fruiting body (Wachtel-Galor et al., 2011). To meet the gradually increasing demand for G. lucidum as a natural medicine, commercial cultivation of this mushroom has been initiated worldwide, especially in the tropical Asian countries (Chang and Buswell, 2008). As different members of the Ganoderma genus seek different conditions for growth and cultivation, and the traditional cultivation technique takes several months for fruiting body development, artificial cultivation of G. lucidum has been implemented using the available substrates such as grain, sawdust, wood logs and cork residues (Boh et al., 2007). Several substrates have been investigated worldwide for the cultivation of G. lucidum (Tiwari et al., 2004).

With the need to cultivate G. lucidum using lowcost inputs and locally available materials, this project envisioned to determine the best culture media, grain and substrate in terms of biological and cost efficiency. Discovering the best culture media, grain and substrate for G. lucidum may lead to the development of mushroom production technologies that may increase yield, and in effect further increase farmers’ income.

Source : Low-Cost Cultivation Protocol for Ganoderma lucidum | InformativeBD

[magicmomma]

Cultivate Improved Well-being and a Leaner Frame!

Luteolin, a flavonoid commonly found in various fruits, vegetables, and herbs, possesses antioxidant properties that effectively counteract harmful free radicals and alleviate oxidative stress.

Kudzu, originating from Asia, offers several potential benefits. Its root contains compounds such as isoflavones, known for their antioxidant properties, aiding in the reduction of oxidative stress and inflammation.

Holy basil, also known as Tulsi, offers a plethora of benefits for the human body. Rich in antioxidants and essential oils, it exhibits anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and adaptogenic properties.

White Korean ginseng, revered in traditional Eastern medicine for centuries, is rich in bioactive compounds like ginsenosides. Its acclaimed adaptogenic properties facilitate improved stress management within the body.

Amur cork bark, sourced from the Phellodendron amurense tree native to East Asia, is rich in bioactive compounds. Research indicates that amur cork bark extract may assist in regulating blood sugar levels.

Propolis, a resinous substance collected by bees from tree buds, aids in combating oxidative stress and reducing inflammation, thereby enhancing overall immune function.

Quercetin, a flavonoid abundant in fruits, vegetables, and grains, also serves as a potent antioxidant. Its ability to neutralize harmful free radicals contributes to the reduction of oxidative stress and inflammation.

Oleuropein, a natural compound found in olive leaves and olive oil, is renowned for its antioxidant properties. Oleuropein holds promise in supporting bone health and managing diabetes by regulating blood sugar levels.

If you've been grappling with weight loss despite rigorous diet and exercise, explore how these eight exotic nutrients can assist you. Visit THIS WEBSITE and scroll down to Weight Loss no. 1 for detailed information on this specific product.

[goddamn-grammar-blog]

how do you identify anaerobic soil? does it have a sort of like... acidic or bitter smell to it? a while back I ordered some bags of bioactive substrate for an enclosure and ended up overestimating how much I needed. so the remaining two bags have sat unopened for a few months. I opened one the other day with the intent of adding it to one of my other enclosures, and the soil in the bag doesn't smell right to me. I really can't describe the smell! I've read that anaerobic soil smells sulfurous, but this soil doesn't smell like sulfur, just... *bitter*.

adding onto that... can you fix anaerobic soil? is there anything that can be done to improve its health or is it a "throw it out and start over fresh" kind of situation?

In my experience, a slightly bitter smelling soil can be from just being sealed up for an extended period of time (a bit of moisture builds up in the bag). I've had that happen quite a bit and haven't had an issue when I used it. When I start up/redo/add to an enclosure the longest part is really adding the substrate, because I turn everything over repeatedly as I add new bags of soil and biodegradables (leaf litter, bark, moss, etc) as I go

Anaerobic soil smells ... Swampy and sour (which makes sense, since this occurs when there's compacted, wet and nutrients dense soil). If you catch it early, you can reduce watering, aerate the soil regularly and add sphagnum moss/cork bits etc, to help it get back on track, but if it's really bad, starting over is the best bet, imo, as I've read that it builds up gasses that can be harmful.

[holykraft]

The lightest and strongest cork bark you have ever touched before , you can hammer it and it will not even be scratched. Look at the video to see how versatile it can be and how it can be used ! So many ways to create a natural and aesthetic environment for your pets. Its unique texture and natural appearance make it suitable for vivarium and aquarium decorations. Our product is suitable for pet owners and reptile enthusiasts looking to create a bioactive natural as possible environment for their pets.

[unsuspectingfish]

I see there’s a reptile expo in town this weekend and decide I want to get a jumping spider there.

I already have a spider enclosure, given to me by a previous roommate, but I look into jumping spider care to make sure the enclosure will be adequate. I find out that most people would consider this little box “too big”. I don’t like that, nor do I like that every enclosure I’m seeing seems to look like a dollhouse. I look further and find a different group of people with bigger, more natural enclosures that house thriving spiders. I decide the enclosure I have is way too small and that I also want to make one that is bioactive. My new plan is to use the 5 gallon terrarium I have and move the current residents, 5 beetles, into a 10 gallon tank with my 7 other beetles, and then move some zebra isopods I have in a 1 gallon tank into the 5 gallon with the spider and then get aquatic isopods for the 1 gallon. It’s a lot. I inevitably realize I can’t actually make the 5 gallon work for a spider, since it’s top-open, and look for a front-open terrarium that’s a size I like. I find one, which I decide to look for at the reptile expo, since it’ll probably be cheaper there. I then decide I can still use the 5 gallon for some powder blue/orange isopods that have outgrown the bin they’re in, and then use the bin for some dairy cow isopods I have that are sharing a bin with some giant canyons. I need to buy and mix more substrate to do this, which I decide to buy the stuff for at the reptile expo. I’ll have a bunch leftover, so I decide I might as well redo my millipede tank while I’m in the process. I want to rid the tank of dwarf white isopods, though, so I decide the best way to do that is to start fresh by buying a new 10 gallon at the Petco 50% off sale and have the old one on hand as a spare. I also decide the dairy cow isopods would do much better in the millipede tank than the bin, leaving a bin open for yet another species of isopod. I realize I can’t ever possibly ensure the live plants in the millipede tank are 100% free of the dwarf isopods, so I decide to replace those plants and put them far away, into a little open terrarium in the living room that my mom gave me. I look into other terrarium plants to replace them. I find out that I already have extras of several suitable plants on hand. I decide to also put some plants in the new isopod tank. I figure out I’ll probably need to buy a few more plants to fill everything, which I decide to look for at the reptile expo. Now that I’ve planned the spider, beetle, millipede, and new isopod tanks, I decide to look into what isopod I want to get for the bin. I discover the one I want is illegal in Oregon. I get distracted looking at which ones are illegal. I then somehow get distracted in the process of being distracted and end up on a quest to ID one of the solo beetles I got in a mystery box. I still don’t remember how I got there from isopods. I’m now playing with the photo ID function on my phone. Eventually, I successfully ID them, along with the other mystery species I have, and in the process I accidentally discover my favorite bug seller has 3 for sale. I buy them. I decide a single 10 gallon isn’t adequate for these 4 large beetles plus the 11 smaller beetles I have, so I decide to set them up in the “spare” 10 gallon I’ll now have. I don’t have room for this. I come up with a plan to completely rearrange my bug and wall shelves in order to make room for this. I remember I was looking at isopods. I eventually decide on a couple species to look for at the reptile expo. I realize I’ll also need more plants and cork and wood for the new beetle tank, which I decide to look for at the reptile expo. I make a list. On the list, I decide to start planning out the aquatic isopod tank. I have everything I need for this on hand, since I have a giant bag of aquarium sand for my hamster, plenty of spare plants I can poach from my main aquarium, and a couple nice pieces of driftwood. I then remember I have some cholla wood I need to boil and put in my main aquarium. I decide I need to rearrange the entire aquarium to accommodate them.

I think maybe I didn’t actually need to pay to get an ADHD diagnosis.

I don’t think I can afford to buy all of this at the reptile expo, now.

[sweater-equestrian]

Think I might sell my dubia roaches tbh. I like them as a staple but I think I’m def allergic to them (makes me sniffly to do stuff in the cage, if I touch their cork I get itchy). I also live in constant fear of their escape- which I know people speak jazz about them not being able to infest homes, but I PROMISE you they could- they do not need heat mats to breed. I also just do not enjoy keeping them like I used to? they’re cool bugs but I think isopods and tarantulas have been more my speed- I KNOW if my isopods escape, theyre either a) dying from lack of humidity, or b) are similar enough to native species that they will Blend In (I have never ever heard of a house infested with isopods. I’m sure it can happen, but....). Not to mention, my local pet stores often have LOTS of feeders- including baby dubia. Idk, it makes sense- I only have two insectivores (my crested hates all bugs), and one can only eat the baby dubia.