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168p · 2 months ago

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Best Practices for Maintaining Your Drum Handling Equipment

Proper maintenance of drum handling equipment is crucial for the safety, efficiency, and longevity of your material handling operations. Whether you’re working in pharmaceuticals, food processing, or chemical manufacturing, keeping your equipment in peak condition ensures smooth daily workflows and minimizes costly downtime. At Meto Systems, we understand the importance of reliable equipment in high-demand environments. Regular maintenance not only protects your investment but also supports workplace safety and regulatory compliance. In this article, we’ll explore the best practices for maintaining your drum handling equipment, so you can extend its lifespan and keep your operations running at optimal performance. Let’s dive into how proactive care makes a big difference in the material handling industry.

Inspect Moving Parts for Wear and Tear Regularly

Consistent inspections are essential when maintaining drum handling equipment. Over time, moving parts such as bearings, hinges, and rotating mechanisms can degrade due to friction and repeated use. Small signs of wear, if left unchecked, can escalate into major failures. To avoid this, schedule visual and functional inspections weekly or monthly based on usage frequency. Look for unusual noises, reduced performance, or vibrations, which may indicate internal damage. At Meto Systems, we always recommend early intervention, as timely replacements are far less expensive than emergency repairs. Incorporating regular inspections into your maintenance plan will keep your equipment functioning safely and efficiently.

Lubricate Components to Reduce Friction and Damage

One of the simplest yet most effective ways to maintain your drum handling equipment is through proper lubrication. Regular lubrication reduces friction between metal components, which can otherwise lead to premature wear and costly breakdowns. Focus on joints, rollers, chains, and any parts that pivot or slide. Use manufacturer-approved lubricants to avoid compatibility issues. At Meto Systems, we suggest creating a maintenance calendar to ensure nothing is overlooked. Well-lubricated equipment doesn’t just perform better—it also lasts longer and requires fewer repairs. Don’t wait until your machine squeaks—keep things running smoothly with consistent care.

Keep Equipment Clean and Free of Debris

Cleanliness plays a vital role in maintaining drum handling equipment. Accumulated dirt, dust, and chemical residue can interfere with mechanical operations and corrode metal surfaces. Make it a habit to clean your equipment at the end of each shift, especially after handling materials prone to spills or splashes. Use non-abrasive cleaners and soft brushes to remove grime without damaging components. At Meto Systems, we’ve seen how a regular cleaning schedule extends equipment life and prevents contamination—especially important in industries where hygiene is critical. Clean machines are safer, more reliable, and easier to inspect for hidden issues.

Check Hydraulic and Pneumatic Systems Consistently

Hydraulic and pneumatic systems are central to the performance of advanced drum handling equipment. Leaks, pressure drops, or faulty seals can hinder operation or create safety risks. Inspect hoses and connections for wear, cracks, or fluid accumulation. Listen for hissing sounds or signs of pressure loss during use. At Meto Systems, we advise keeping spare seals and fittings on hand to reduce downtime. Preventive checks should be part of your weekly routine, especially in high-usage environments. Maintaining consistent pressure and leak-free systems ensures your equipment delivers the power and precision it was designed for.

Calibrate and Test Safety Features Periodically

Safety mechanisms on your drum handling equipment—such as emergency stops, locking pins, and overload protection—should never be taken for granted. Over time, sensors may become misaligned or unresponsive. Periodic calibration ensures everything functions correctly under pressure. Test safety features quarterly or after any major repair. At Meto Systems, we encourage teams to document all safety checks as part of internal compliance and training programs. When your safety features are reliable, your entire operation becomes more secure and productive. Don’t wait for an incident to reveal a flaw—proactive testing saves lives and reputations.

Replace Worn-Out Parts Before They Cause Failure

Parts like lifting straps, wheels, seals, and motor components wear out over time, even with the best maintenance routines. Replacing them proactively avoids sudden failures that disrupt operations. Maintain an inventory of commonly used parts and track usage patterns. When in doubt, consult with your original equipment provider. At Meto Systems, we often help clients create a custom parts replacement schedule to stay ahead of wear-and-tear issues. By replacing components before they break, you minimize downtime and extend the life of your drum handling equipment.

Train Operators on Equipment Care and Usage

Proper use goes hand-in-hand with proper maintenance. Training your team to operate drum handling equipment correctly can significantly reduce wear and the risk of misuse. Educate staff on weight limits, operational protocols, and what signs to look for when equipment needs attention. Encourage a "see something, say something" culture around equipment issues. At Meto Systems, we’ve seen that well-trained operators are your first line of defense against damage and safety hazards. Empowering your team with knowledge leads to fewer repairs, less downtime, and a more efficient work environment.

Conclusion

Maintaining your drum handling equipment is about more than just protecting your investment—it’s about creating a safe, efficient, and reliable workplace. By implementing a structured maintenance plan that includes regular inspections, cleaning, lubrication, and part replacement, you’ll extend the lifespan of your equipment and reduce costly downtime. Equally important is ongoing operator training and attention to safety features. At Meto Systems, we believe that proactive care is the key to long-term success in any material handling operation. Don’t wait for a breakdown—start maintaining smarter today and keep your operations moving seamlessly.

#drum handling equipment

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mirandamckenni1 · 1 year ago

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Soft Cock Play and Why We Love Them 2 with Michelle Renee, Erica Leroye and Shameless Sex Pod #372 This is a continuation of episode #338 Soft Cock Play and Why We Love Them (which is also our top viewed video on YouTube!). You asked, so we are answering by responding to the following questions: why are “you” women able to talk about soft cocks and penis owners' bodies in general? Why is reframing sex so important when it comes to soft cocks? What are the techniques that encourage blood flow AND increase pleasure and fun? What do I do when my partner is in a downward spiral regarding their own soft cock? What do I do if my partner doesn’t want to be part of the problem solving for my soft cock? And what about soft cocks as a symptom of prostate issues/cancer/diabetes? About our guests: Erica Leroye, M.Ed (she/her/they) is the Founder and "Chief Erotic Officer" of Creative Body Release, a philosophy and methodology that is built upon 30+ years of body/mind training and educational expertise across the lifespan. Erica is a Certified Sexological Bodyworker, Human Development Specialist, Healing Arts professional, and Erotic Artist/Educator. After the sudden death of her fiancee to undiagnosed diabetes, her life's mission became “De-Mystifying the International Erectile Epidemic” using research-based best practices from multiple disciplines, common sense, and a knowing splash of women's intuition. Erica's unique method for working with arousal and erectile issues (in all gender identities) is founded on a deep understanding of the developmental trajectory of the sensory-motor system and the body/mind challenges of "going with the flow" when it comes to moving through stressful life realities. To learn more go to https://ift.tt/Hc24b18 Michelle Renee (she/her) based in San Diego, is dedicated to helping clients live their most authentic life. From her personal journey, Michelle knows that love heals. Michelle has combined her 8+ years of experience as both a cuddle therapist and a surrogate partner to create a hybrid offering called Foundations of Human Connection. She affectionately welcomes clients into her Human Connection Lab, where she supports them in relational healing through experiential touch, unconditional positive regard, celebrated agency, and authentic connection. She is also the founder of SoftCockWeek.com, co-founder of Embrace Surrogate Partner Resource Group, host of The Intimacy Lab podcast, and Director of Training for Cuddlist.com. You can find Michelle on social media at @meetmichellerenee or check out her sites HumanConnectionCoach.com and MeetMichelleRenee.com Join us April 24th-29th, 2024 for The Shameless Sex Retreat: Unleash Your Shameless Self - in Tulum! Spaces are limited to reserve your spot ASAP here Come see us for a FREE LIVE sex ed workshop in Los Angeles Saturday, March 23rd 6-8pm at Hustler's Hollywood Blvd store. Learn all about sex toys and how to up your pleasure game. Sign up ASAP here because the first 20 people get free sexy gifts! Do you love us? Do you REALLY love us? Then order our book now! Go to shamelesssex.com to snag your copy Support Shameless Sex by sending us gifts via our Amazon Wish List Other links: Get 50% off our favorite delicious, healthy pre-made meals with code chipndip50 at https://ift.tt/ycvtMA9 Get 20% off (and free shipping on) the best performance enhancers with code SHAMELESS at http://usejoymode.com Get 10% off + free shipping with code SHAMELESS10 on Uberlube AKA our favorite lubricant at http://uberlube.com Get 10% off while mastering the art of pleasure at https://ift.tt/nl5aeYG Get 20% off Shameless Sex Fav's with code SHAMELESSLOVE24 or 15% off all other sex toys with code SHAMELESSSEX at https://ift.tt/zWpE8Pf via YouTube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hck9ck5ncb8

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sonali2345 · 2 years ago

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Sealed for Success: Exploring Growth Avenues in the Bearing Isolators Market

The bearing isolators market is on an upward trajectory driven by the surging demand for isolator solutions. Bearing isolators, characterized by their non-contact, wear-free, and permanent design, serve as essential protective devices for bearings. Operating as a cohesive unit, the rotor and stator remain connected during equipment operation, ensuring the prevention of separation.

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This ingenious mechanism involves the stator being pressed into the bearing seat, effectively engaging with the rotating shaft. Together, these components collaborate to safeguard bearings from contamination, effectively excluding grease and impurities. Unlike traditional methods, bearing isolators operate without requiring lubrication or a finished shaft. Predominantly crafted from bronze, these isolators leverage a vapor barrier function, facilitating unhindered transmission of vapor contaminants when the system is in motion. This innovation supersedes past measures like lip seals and mechanical seals, which were previously utilized to safeguard bearings in industrial systems but were often temporary and inconsistent in protecting heavy-duty equipment.

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Exploring Market Dynamics and Structure

The expansion of bearing isolator production is extending beyond projected timelines, driven by the widespread recognition of the product's merits. Its burgeoning popularity spans industries such as oil & gas, manufacturing & processing, mining, pulp & paper, and chemical treatment.

Navigating the COVID-19 Impact

Since its emergence in early 2020, the global spread of COVID-19 has had far-reaching consequences. The disease has impacted millions and prompted significant economic disruptions, leading to bans and operational halts across major economies. Both life support and bearing isolator industries faced substantial setbacks. Nevertheless, gradual recovery is being achieved worldwide through the strategic integration of technology. As the pandemic endures, bearing isolator market players are working to mitigate the decline and are focused on restoring regular operations.

Influential Factors Shaping the Market

Rapid industrialization is poised to propel profitable market growth in the forthcoming years. The anticipated upswing in lubricant demand is expected to drive the need for bearing isolators. These innovative solutions play a pivotal role in minimizing downtime and replacement costs, further fueling demand. Moreover, the surge in demand for protection against machine rust is predicted to drive bearing isolator production. However, factors like escalating speed sensor costs and product price fluctuations are hindrances to market expansion.

Emerging Trends in the Market

The market is witnessing a flurry of new product launches, a strategy embraced by bearing isolator companies to enhance their offerings. Modern bearing isolators efficiently collect grease splashes within their labyrinth components. The Asia-Pacific region's industrialization surge is poised to bolster the bearing isolator market in the near future. The appeal of bearing isolators is magnified by their extended lifespan and cost-effectiveness compared to traditional lip and mechanical seals. These factors collectively contribute to the market's growth. The indispensable role of industrialization globally, coupled with the demand for machine lubricants, positions bearing isolators as a pivotal component in the lubrication process, further driving market expansion. Furthermore, the introduction of high-speed, high-precision, and high-torque bearing isolators creates exciting opportunities for major players in this arena.

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Key Report Highlights

Bearing Isolators Market Snapshot

Material Types

End User Industries

Regions Covered

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heydenblog · 2 years ago

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Precautions for centrifugal pump testing

After the installation of various centrifugal pump products newly purchased and installed, it is necessary to conduct centrifugal pump testing work in advance. When conducting centrifugal pump testing work, the following methods and precautions for centrifugal pump testing should be followed 1. Before starting the centrifugal pump, it is prohibited to conduct idle and no-load testing. Liquid testing should be carried out according to the operating procedures specified in the centrifugal pump operating instructions. For the forced lubrication system, the temperature rise of the centrifugal pump bearing oil should not exceed 28 degrees, and the temperature of the bearing metal should be less than 93 ℃. 2. For centrifugal pumps with oil ring lubrication or splash lubrication systems, the temperature of the lubricating oil should not exceed 39 degrees, and the temperature of the bearing components should be less than 82 degrees. 3. When testing the centrifugal pump, the vibration value of the centrifugal pump bearing should also be checked. The vibration standard of the centrifugal pump bearing can refer to the relevant vibration standards of petrochemical rotating machinery. 4. During the testing process of the centrifugal pump, the operation of the centrifugal pump should be very balanced and noise free. The coolant and lubricating oil system should be normal, and there should be no leakage in the centrifugal pump and its auxiliary pipelines. 5. During the process of testing the centrifugal pump, attention should be paid to whether the current of the centrifugal pump motor is operating within the specified range. If the current exceeds the specified range, it indicates that the actual operating head is lower than the pump head. In this case, it is recommended to turn down the outlet valve to control the flow of the centrifugal pump and use it within the rated current range. 6. The leakage of various seals and media in centrifugal pumps shall not exceed the following standard requirements: (1) Clean water centrifugal pump with mechanical seal: 10 drops/min for light oil and 5 drops/min for heavy oil (2) Multi stage centrifugal pump products sealed with packing: 20 drops/min for light oil and 10 drops/min for heavy oil (3) For magnetic drive pumps conveying toxic, harmful, flammable, and explosive media, no obvious visible leakage is allowed.

Liquid Ring Vacuum Pump in Chemical Production of Application

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trinesmut · 2 years ago

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i AM thinking about thunderr/odica again let me indulge.

thunderclash laid out on the berth while his conjunxes stroke gently down his sides, stopping at every sensitive seam or piece of kibble. he shudders beneath their touch, but his limbs stay flat against the berth, because he's being good, and if he's good he gets a reward. so matter how much he wants to reach out towards rodimus and nautica, he doesn't, and they whisper soft praise and encouragement the longer he holds.

eventually the touch goes away and he's stricken by their absence, but then rodimus comes up to the top of the berth, sliding his valve panel open, and he feels nautica's servos gently stroking along his own panels, and they pop open without him even registering sending the command.

rodimus's knees go to either side thunderclash's head, and for a moment they all pause - a drop of lubrication from rodimus's valve splashes on thunderclash's face, and nautica's servos rest on the inside of thunderclash's thighs. then rodimus lowers himself onto thunderclash's mouth, gripping the berth for stability while thunderclash begins to eagerly eat him out, and nautica's servos work their way into thunderclash's valve. thunderclash's servos tighten into fists, his spinal strut just barely arching off the berth before he gets himself under control. it doesnt take nautica long to add more fingers, given their size difference, and then there's a moment where they disappear, only for him to feel the head of her spike resting against his valve. he ex-vents desperately against rodimus's valve, managing to vocalize a few "please"'s, and she slides it all in in one thrust.

he loses himself for a moment, arching into it, and nautica responds by grabbing his servos and holding them against the berth herself. rodimus bears down hard on thunderclash's mouth, and thunderclash doubles his efforts as an apology for his lapse.

at that point, thunderclash loses himself in the sensation, his world narrowing to rodimus's valve above him and nautica's spike inside him. he comes, and comes again, and rodimus's valve spills transfluid all over his face around when nautica's spike fills him up. they stop, the only sound in the room the whirring of their fans and the ex-venting helping cool their systems, before nautica eventually pulls her spike out of thunderclash's valve and grabs some rags to clean them up.

she and rodimus take extra care to be gentle with thunderclash, pressing soft kisses to his helm, and when they consider it satisfactory they settle themselves to his right, nautica in the middle with thunderclash and rodimus able to completely enclose her between them.

#trinetxt #s: thunderrodica #trinewrites #valveplug

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wetsteve3 · 4 years ago

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1922 ACE 77CI FOUR

ENGINE NO. BX927

William and Thomas Henderson, founders of the Henderson motorcycle in Detroit Michigan, sold their under capitalized company to Ignaz Schwinn in November of 1917. Schwinn was developing his own four cylinder motorcycle at the time to enhance his Excelsior line of single cylinder and twin cylinder motorcycles. Purchasing the Henderson company was an expedient and less expensive way to fulfill that market. However Schwinn was probably very difficult to work under so the Henderson brothers left their namesake company. Thomas departed to Europe and probably died there with little money. Bill Henderson most likely left the employ of Schwinn with new motorcycle drawings rolled up under his arm in early 1920. Under Schwinn, the Henderson motorcycle quickly became larger which was not the vision Bill Henderson possessed. Henderson had secured financing and the old Savage Arms building in Philadelphia, and was ready to produce his new four cylinder motorcycle in a few months. The Ace was born.

The new Ace motorcycle was a brand new and modern four cylinder motorcycle when compared to the last of the true Hendersons. It was strikingly beautiful in its Packard Blue finish highlighted with cream colored wheels. Its lines were very stylish and gave the impression it was fast even when at a stand still. Henderson was shrewd and made sure that no Henderson part would fit his new Ace engine. Delivering 20 horsepower, the capacity of this motor was 75 cubic inches. The crankshaft was stronger with thicker journals and the flywheel heavier to handle increased power from the engine. The drilled for lightness connecting rods had dippers on the caps to improve oiling through the splash lubricated system. An inlet over exhaust motor, twin inlet blocks were perched atop four cast iron cylinders. The engine breathed through large valves and volumetrically improved intake manifold and exhaust. From the onset, the Ace engine was design to appeal to the sporting rider yet deliver a smooth gentlemanly ride.

While the old Henderson appeared antiquated by 1920, the Ace had a fresh look about it. The frame was reinforced to eliminate flexing when under load but still allowed a low seating position. The streamlined gas tank was novel with the tool box inset through the top of the tank. Fenders, sourced from the same manufacturer as the Henderson, were wider and a different radius to allow smaller wheel rims with larger tires to be mounted on the motorcycle. Rounding off the chassis were handlebars of a comfortable bend that allowed easy maneuvering of the motorcycle. Twin brakes attempted to haul the motorcycle down from a fast speed, however they were one of the few weak points in the design.

This 1922 Ace was expertly restored, scoring 99+ points at an AMCA concours d'elegance. Details of the Ace, known to only a few knowledgeable people, were incorporated into this restoration. The Ace was exhilarating to ride as they were nimble, smooth and fast. One of the most desirable American motorcycles to own, the Ace could easily become your favorite motorcycle. Offered on a bill of sale.

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jill-in-thailand · 4 years ago

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The Rotary Screw Air Compressor

In many heavy-duty industrial applications, a piston compressor just isn't enough. Professionals prefer the rotary screw compressors to meet the higher pressures that are required for high-powered pneumatic tools as well as complex pneumatic systems. You can get more details information on air compressor by browsing toolented website.

While the piston air compressor utilizes an alternating mechanism and pulsation of piston mechanics, the rotary screw compressor operates continuous. Two rotors work in tandem to draw air into and then compress it as it is moving through the spiral. The rotation of the air moves it through a chamber, compressing it before exchanging it. The leakage is minimized by spinning at high speed.

A lot of compressors experience shaking, which could damage the equipment and requires you to take measures to limit the amount of vibrations. The majority of rotary screw compressors on the other hand run smoothly, which ensures a smooth, vibration-free operation.

Rotating screw compressors have many rates, which range from 10 CFM up to the five-figure range. Control strategies comprise:

Stop/start: This method can either provide power to the motor, or doesn't, depending on the application.

Load/unload: The compressor can be powered continuously, with an adjustable valve that decreases the capacity of the tank when a particular demand for compression is satisfied. This is a standard procedure in factories. If it includes an automatic stop-timer, this is known as a dual control plan.

Modulation: Modulation uses an adjustable valve that adjusts pressure by throttling/closing the valve inlet, which matches the compressor's capacity with the demand. These adjustments are not as efficient as compared to other rotating screw compressors. The compressor is still using around 70 percent of its power consumption even when it is set at 0 capacity. However, modulation is still a viable option for operations in which frequently stopping the compressor is not an option.

Variable displacement: This method of control regulates the amount of air being pulled into the compressor. This method can be combined with inlet valves that modulate used in rotary screw compressors in order to improve efficiency and control precision.

Variable speed: This is an efficient method to control a rotary compressor’s capacity. But, it could react differently to different air compressors. Variable speed alters the speed of the motor and can impact the output. The motor is more delicate than other designs which is why it might not be ideal for hot or dusty work environments.

What Lubrication Works in Air Compressors: Oil Flooded or Oil-Free

One of the most important aspects to be aware of regarding air compressor maintenance is how lubrication operates. When you're looking at oil pumps, you're dealing with two types of lubrication:

Pumps that are oil-lubricated

This type of pump allows oil to splash onto walls and bearings inside the cylinder. This method is also called oil-flooded lubrication and tends to last longer. The piston ring, a metal piece on the piston that seals the combustion chamber, is constructed out of steel. This ring can help keep oil out of compressed air, but at times it may still leak into the tank.

Oil-free pumps

Oil-free pumps are equipped with a lubrication system that lasts for a long time and removes the requirement for oil. In numerous industries where contamination is not an option, like breweries, food production and pharmaceutical manufacturing, oil-free pumps can be a good alternative. They ensure that oil doesn't pollute the air used in their production or processing.

Pumps with oil-filled air are an unintended mix. For power tools that need oil for lubrication, having oil in the air stream can be advantageous. Inline sources are a great way to disperse oil in small quantities to tools that require it. Many tools, on the other hand, can not function correctly if small amounts of oil are present in the air stream.

For painting or woodworking, oil can interrupt the whole process. It can prevent coatings from drying or completing uniformly. Airborne oil can even corrupt the wood's surface.

There are many tools which can stop oil from entering the tank. This includes oil separators and air-line filters. But, if oil-free operation is essential and you need to run a compressor that is oil-free, with permanent lubrication are the best choice.

#Air Compressor #Compressor #Tools

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californiapoolsonline · 5 years ago

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THE ULTIMATE GUIDE TO SWIMMING POOL MAINTENANCE

Your swimming pool is that the centerpiece of family fun and residential to hours of summertime fun. Unfortunately, without the proper maintenance, your sparkling pool will become smelly, dirty, and just plain gross. swimming pool maintenance isn't nearly as fun as splashing and swimming, but the right techniques can make it a breeze that allows you to quickly revisit to enjoying the water. this text covers all the tiny print of general pool maintenance which may assist you not only enjoy your pool more this season, but make your pool and its equipment last longer year-to-year.

We'll be covering the next topics:

Basic Pool Maintenance

Cleaning (Pumps, Filters and Skimmers)

Cleaning (Vacuums and Robots)

Water Chemistry

Covers

Winterizing You Pool

Opening Your Pool in Spring

Vinyl Liner Leaks and Repairs

5 Steps to Basic swimming pool Maintenance

Basic cleaning of your swimming pool includes cleaning the water, scrubbing the vinyl walls, keeping filters maintained, and clearing the planet around your pool. Use these five steps to make cleaning your swimming pool an easy task which can barely interrupt your summer fun.

1. Skim the Surface

top tips for a sparkling pool Debris accumulates on your pool's surface each day. Removing this matter will keep the water fresh and permit you to deep clean less frequently. Attach your skimmer net to a telescopic pole and sweep it across your pool's surface to urge obviate debris. because internet gets dirty, shake debris onto rock bottom before putting internet back to the water. Skimming the water daily will prevent debris from sinking to the lowest of the pool.

2. Brush the Walls

Basic pool cleaning tipsThe walls of your pool need to be scrubbed to urge obviate dirt, chemical residue, and potential algae growth. Grab that telescopic pole again and fasten the pool brush. Brush the walls, ladder, and corners of your pool. Take the time necessary to form sure you are doing not skip any tight spaces that might allow algae to grow. Brushing pushes stuck-on dirt and algae into the water making it easier for chemicals or your pool vacuum to urge obviate.

3. Vacuum the bottom

How to vacuum pool

Attach your vacuum head and hose to the telescopic pole to clear debris from the lowest of your pool. To eliminate air from the system, lower the vacuum to the lowest of the pool and push the other end of the hose against a jet. When bubbles stop forming, air is purged from the vacuum and you are able to urge to work.

Read More finance a swimming pool

Remove the strainer basket from your skimmer inlet and plug your vacuum hose into the suction port at the lowest of the skimmer.

automatic-pool-cleaners

Slowly move your vacuum head over the entire floor of the pool to urge obviate settled dirt and debris. Avoid rushing this job and stirring up debris which can eventually settle back to the lowest of your pool. When cleaning is complete, turn the filtration system back on to urge obviate anything you missed.

Note: Automatic cleaners are also available. While they're costlier than a manual vacuum, they create the work considerably easier. Read more on the varied kind of auto cleaners here.

4. Clean the Filter

Cleaning your pool is useless if you neglect the filter. In fact, you'll be cleaning tons more often if your pool's filter isn't clean enough to circulate the water effectively. Your pool likely has one of three kinds of filters. Each type requires a special cleaning method. Always follow the manufacturer's instructions to scrub your filter.

Backwashing Your Pool Filter

Backwashing is that the act of running your pool pump backward to flush out the system. Sand and DE filters are often backwashed for a quick clean but must be cleaned thoroughly once or twice a year. To backwash your pool, pack up the filter and connect the backwash hose to the filter's waste port. Turn the valve to backwash. Turn the filter on for about two minutes. Turn the filter off and set the valve to rinse. Turn the system on for a further minute. Turn the system off and set the valve to filter. If you've a DE filter, follow the manufacturer's instructions to feature DE.

Cleaning Your Pool Filter

how to backwash your filter sand Filter: Backwash the filter then pack up the pump and set it to filter. Open the pump lid and add sand filter cleaner per manufacturer's instructions. activate the pump for 10-15 seconds to carry the cleaner into the sand filter. pack up the pool pump and leave it off for 8 hours or overnight. Complete the tactic by backwashing again and turning the filter back to the normal setting.

how to clean your cartridge filter Cartridge Filter: pack up the pump and filter and release air from the system. Open the filter and deduct the cartridge. A damaged cartridge will have got to get replaced. If the cartridge isn't damaged, begin by rinsing it thoroughly with a hose. If the filter still looks dirty, clean with an ad filter cleaner or soak it overnight. When the filter is clean, replace or lubricate the O ring. Rinse the cartridge and replace it within the filter. Complete the tactic by turning the pool filtration system back on.

how to wash a DE filtered Filter: Wear gloves and a mask to wash your DE filter. Backwash the system, pack up the pump, and deduct air from the system. Open the drain plug to let water drain from the filter. Open the filter tank and rinse out the tank. rinse the manifold and filter grids then check for damage. If the manifold or grids are still dirty clean with an ad cleaner or soak overnight. Replace or lubricate the O ring and return the manifold and grids to the tank. Following your manufacturer's instructions, create a slurry of DE and water. activate the pump and release air from the system. Within 60 seconds pour the slurry into the pool skimmer.

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cometoyouautorepair · 5 years ago

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Brakes, water pump, alternator, wheel bearings, semi truck and trailers, emergency roadside repair, diesel repair on site repair, heavy equipment, tune up, cars, trucks, suv, mechanic that comes to me, mobile mechanic.

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#Engine Oil Pressure Sensor Switch Replacement

#Expansion Tank Replacement

#Harmonic Balancer Replacement

#Serpentine Belt Replacement

#Drive Belt Replacement

#Drive Belt Tensioner Replacement

#Distributor Cap Replacement

#Cooling Fan Replacement

#Radiator Replacement

#Radiator Fan Motor Replacement

#Radiator Hose Replacement

#Thermostat Replacement

#Engine Tune-up

#Water Pump Replacement

#Valve Cover Gasket Replacement

#Timing Belt Replacement

#Emissions Failure Repair

#Crankshaft Position Sensor Replacement

#Coolant Drain and Fill

#Catalytic Converter Replacement

#Camshaft Position Sensor Replacement Intake and Exhaust

#External Vehicle Parts

#Antenna Mast Replacement

#Mirror Glass Replacement

#Door Lock Replacement

#Headlight Door Replacement

#Header Panel Replacement

#License Plate Bracket Replacement

#Emblem Replacement

#Metal License Plate Bracket Replacement

#Trunk Strut Replacement

#Grille Insert Replacement

#Engine Splash Shield Replacement

#Fuel Tank Cap Replacement

#Hood Strut Replacement

#Splash Guard Backing Plate Replacement

#Rear Lift Gate Locking Mechanism

#Rear Distance Sensor Replacement

#Door Weather Stripping Replacement

#Power Seat Switch Replacement

#Energy Absorber Replacement

#Heating and Air Conditioning

#Blower Motor Resistor Replacement

#Heater Core Replacement

#Cabin Air Filter Replacement

#Heater and A/C Blower Motor

#A/C Recharge

#A/C Compressor Replacement

#A/C Condenser Replacement

#Defroster Grid Repair

#A/C Line or Hose Replacement

#Heater Core Hoses Replacement

#HVAC Electronic Control Module Replacement

#HVAC Blower Motor Resistor Replacement

#HVAC Blower Motor Replacement

#HVAC Blend Door Actuator Replacement

#A/C Evacuate and Recharge

#Lighting and Horns

#Turn Signal Switch Replacement

#Turn Signal Bulb Replacement

#Brake Light Bulb Replacement

#Headlight Bulb Replacement

#Fog Light Assembly Replacement

#Corner Light Bulb Replacement

#Side Marker Light Assembly Replacement

#Turn Signal Light Assembly Replacement

#Headlight Assembly Replacement

#Park Light Assembly Replacement

#Headlight Cover

#Tail Light Bulb Replacement

#Tail Light Assembly Replacement

#Brake Light Switch Replacement

#Headlight Switch

#Maintenance

#Fuse Replacement

#Tire Rotation

#Scheduled Maintenance - 30K, 60K, 90K, etc.

#Powertrain

#Throttle Body Replacement

#Throttle Position Sensor Replacement

#Oxygen Sensor Replacement

#Fuel Injector Replacement

#Fuel Filter Replacement

#Air Filter Replacement

#Mass Airflow Sensor/Meter Replacement

#Fuel Pressure Regulator Replacement

#Ignition Coil Replacement

#Spark Plugs Replacement

#Starting and Charging

#Ignition Switch Replacement

#Battery Replacement

#Battery Cable Replacement

#Battery Cable Terminal End Service

#Alternator Belt Replacement

#Alternator Replacement

#Starter Replacement

#Steering and Suspension

#Power Steering Hose Replacement

#Power Steering Fluid Drain and Fill

#Outer Tie Rod End Replacement

#Power Steering Pump Replacement

#Wheel Hub Assembly Replacement

#suspension-control-arm-replacement

#Check Tire Pressure

#Check Power Steering Fluid

#Power Steering Fluid Replacement

#Wheel Bearing Replacement

#ABS Control Unit Replacement

#Wheel Cylinder Replacement

#Ball Joint Replacement

#Shock Absorber Replacement

#Strut Assembly Replacement

#Transmission and Drivetrain

#Axle Assembly Replacement

#CV Joint Boot Replacement

#CV Joint Replacement

#CV Axle Assembly Replacement

#Driveshaft Replacement

#Transfer Case Fluid Replacement

#Transmission Fluid Change

#Windows and Glass

#Window Regulator with Motor Replacement

#Window Belt Strip Replacement

#Power Window Switch Replacement

#Wiper and Washer System

#Windshield Wiper Motor Replacement

#Windshield Wiper Blades Replacement

#Washer Pump Replacement

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twitchesandstitches · 5 years ago

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Tiashar’s room, in the apartment-ship, was a nebulous thing even at the best of times. Her powers had a passive effect on things around her, and the theme of those powers was ‘mutagenic’; the stairs twisted out of different planes of existence so watching someone walk up them was like watching perspective artwork, water tended to appear out of nowhere and collect into cube-shaped masses in the middle of the floor and remain that way, and so on.

Excessively busty women and ludicrously endowed men often wandered around, their robes scrawled with cute designs. Odina supposedly didn’t much mind their presence; these cultists, drawn by Tiashar’s siren song of psychic enticement, tended to be inclined to do what they were told, and their adoring and worshipful obedience to their goddess translated to the various people she took orders from. Usually if there was manual work to be done, the nearest cultist would do it with a vapid smile and excessively flowery language.

Now, though, her room was empty; a wide open space, mostly occupied of an impossibly deep pool that was filled by her overwhelmingly big body, and the wall lined with little trinkets she’d collected, and otherwise she would have worn them on her body.

She was a massive monster of a woman; a brief glance might have mistaken her for a bipedal shoggoth girl with black skin and green highlights, and a second look would take in her gills, the strong arms, her unusually long neck and conclude perhaps she was some sort of slug woman. But the froggy features threw that off; her feet were webbed flippers, for example, at least for the moment.

She rose out of water that was as much her own gushed milk as anything, as black as most of the fluids she produced. Most of her visible body, thick and engorged as it was, happened to be obscured by multiple rows of breasts so big she was resting on them, and her enormously round slug-like tail, flapped dopily in the water, was still forced up by an amazingly massive butt and hips to support such gluteal mass.

She gleamed like wet latex, her skin producing some kind of lubricant or fluid. A mass apparently inside her tail twitched. She yawned, thick cables of green tendrils covering her face like hair and her gills flipping indecisively.

Her tail pulsed. The lump inside it’s hollow systems pushed out, and a small orifice appeared at the tip like a secondary mouth, and Bonnie came out from there, looking sleepy. He splashed into the water and stood up, completely naked, and yawned.

Loath to leave the comfort of the pool and of Tiashar herself, he nonetheless yawned and paddled past several rows of enormous breasts, the cavernous gaps between them shifting faintly with the tide, the pulse of her mysterious internal functions a soft call to slide near and hold her. Just for a while.

She was like a mountain, and it was the most natural thing to stay close.

Eventually he reached her arms, and took hold of a big round finger like an articulated fin. “Come on, honey. It’s breakfast time.”

Tiashar opened an eye. He tried not to look her directly into the eyes too often; that kind of direct eye contact made her tremendously uncomfortable for her, and for him it made him aware of the presence of all that Was Not and that was not good for mental health. “Hm?”

“Come on. Breakfast. Please?” He gave her big ol’ round puppy eyes. His plump lips trembled sadly.

She made a soft, tragic noise. Gradually she stood up, and it was like the moving of a mountain, her black skin shimmering like wet latex, a soft green light appearing in faint patterns around her body, and those shifted subtly as she moved.

She stood up to her full height; most of the front of her body was covered up by three pairs of enormous breasts, her nipples today shaped into plump quasi-mouths. Yesterday they had been contracted tentacles, as yesterday her legs had been a single massive mermaid’s-tail. With a grunt, Tiashar sucked in all but one pair, her body expanding significantly and revealing the outward curve of a matronly belly and hips nearly wider than he was tall.

She started to walk towards the door. “First we gotta get dressed,” Bonnie said patiently, as he had every morning for the past three years.

“...Aw right,” she said, belatedly realizing she’d forgotten again.

“I’ll help you get dressed!”

“Thank you, hun.” Tiashar shifted nervously. Her huge lips worked, trying to find words, and it almost hurt trying to fix down the right ones. “I forgot again.”

“I know. It’s okay.”

“I won’t forget tomorrow,” she said, and as she said it she knew she would forget again. For her, everything faded. Thoughts flowed in and out of her mind, memories sank away only to randomly resurface later.

She could try all she wanted, but she couldn’t remember.

He just hugged her leg, nuzzling softly into her, his expression as peaceful as the still waters around him. He was as naked as her, his own masculine endowments expanded so that they were nearly as big as his entire body; they pushed against her leg, the heat of his body a pleasant shock against her cool skin. Nevertheless, it felt a chaste touch, affectionate without any lust to get in the way.

Now he departed from her, his own recreational anatomy retracting into his body to present a more feminine appearance. “Do you want to wear a pretty dress today, or do you want something with leggings?”

“I dunno, hun.” She let him take her flipper and guide her about. “Surprise me~!”

#twitchy!tiashar #twitchy!bonnie #twitchy!ocs #needed to do a warm up so i thought #why not something exploring her look #and also their relationship dynamic??#fics #my writing

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mechanicalstudents-blog · 5 years ago

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Types of Lubrication Systems PDF:Splash Lubrication System, Pressure Lubrication System

Types of Lubrication Systems PDF-Splash Lubrication System, Pressure Lubrication System: Lubrication is the admittance of oil having relative motion between two surfaces and it also reduces wear and tear between the parts having relative motion.

Note: Download Types of Lubrication Systems PDF at the end of the article.

There are two types of Lubrication systems which are presented below.

1.Splas…

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#Components of Pressure Lubrication System #Components of Splash Lubrication System #Pressure Lubrication System #Pressure Lubrication System PDF #Pressure Lubrication System Working #Splash Lubrication System #Splash Lubrication System PDF #Splash Lubrication System Working #Types of Lubrication Systems #Types of Lubrication Systems PDF

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teratoscope · 6 years ago

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Fat-Tailed Fit Pitcher

The prize is an almost-crustacean with the splay-legged posture of a gecko and the size and profile of an English bulldog. It sits at the edge of a scum-choked pool, regarding itself in the water. You eye the trailing tail-section larger than the critter itself, pale flesh bulging between the seams of its near-translucent carapace. You can’t help but think jackpot, and the very moment the thought surfaces the creature pulls an about-face. Its head-tendrils part around a blossom of concentric liplike folds, issuing a brackish, high-pressure stream that splashes you from head to toe, leaving you with a heady bouquet of fresh-baked bread and meat so fresh the blood’s still hot. It rockets backwards along the tunnel floor and up a crumbling column as it enters full threat display, letting loose an alarm cry you both hear and feel as a searing body-ache, accompanied by an orchestra of unforgivable aromas and strobing bioluminescence.

HD 1 MV 240’ climb AC chain AT wet down (360’, target makes a Dex check or smells tremendously appetizing for 2d3 days—roll twice to check for random encounters, and if both go through roll twice on the encounter table and combine), bite (d4) Special detect intent, fitpitching

Detect intent—a fat-tailed fit pitcher has constant ESP out to 1,200’.

Fitpitching—a fat-tailed fit pitcher raises the most hell pound for pound out of all living things in the macroverse when it suspects it’s threatened, emitting a psychic foghorn that feels like holding your ear right up against a live jet engine that’s been taught to say “cock sucker.” Every round, a Fat-Tailed Fit Pitcher deals 1 Wisdom damage to everyone it has line of sight on or who is in earshot, no save. Wisdom recovers at a rate of 1/round once the fitpitching ends or the party in question removes themselves from the area of effect. At 0, a victim enters a state of catatonic dissociation and cannot move, act, or think until allowed to remain in absolute silence and stillness for a full exploration turn.

The tail of the fat-tailed fit pitcher is some of the most spectacularly valuable eatin’ wrought by god, man, or the dumbshit hand of natural selection. There’s glands in there that sweat panacea and make real nice dumpling skins once they’re empty. Slow-cooking the fatty tissues produces a fine ambrosia that works equally well as top-tier soup stock, perfume base, lubricant, combustible fuel, and lamp oil (plants grow better in the light shed by a tail-oil lamp than they do in the god damn sun). The bones and carapace are sturdy but simple enough to work with the right tools, and they last decades before biodegrading.

And then there’s the actual meat, which, in addition to tasting like the perfect compromise between prawn and gator with a natural buttery bottom-note, tacks on a good ten to fifteen years of life expectancy per pound when prepared properly.

Naturally they’re the most widely coveted critter in all of Amnion, and they’ve only narrowly avoided total extinction by evolving to be the biggest possible pain in the ass to procure. Presumably they originated elsewhere and, like many things in Amnion, were forcibly relocated when it became clear that it was a bad idea to have ever allowed them to be possible.

The Ouroboros Mob farms the little bastards using an intricate automated system serviced by flunkies who’ve committed major breaches of code and a small community of monks who mark their full induction into the tradition by replacing a hefty chunk of their gray matter with various rocks they like. Obviously, Ouroboros capos dine very well indeed, and there are certain powers in Amnion that would love a shot at the Mob’s stash.

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the-windowproject · 6 years ago

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Make me a mechanic

The workshop for the bike mechanic course is tucked in an estate off Caledonian Road. I arrive on The Beast, my much-used tourer of six years. Its frame is peppered with scratches and there’s a small dent from where, I guess, someone tried to steal it. Never has it had a full service.

The course tutor is David, an aviation engineer turned bike mechanic. David’s perceptions are grounded in physics. He is wedded to rules, logic and formulas: there’s always a right or wrong, a yes or a no in David’s world. Dissembling and reassembling objects are second nature to him, something I’ve never experienced. Still, over the next two days, David attempts to impart this approach to me as I get hands on with the bike.

And I’m curious to learn. A long-term cyclist, I can still only do the basics (i.e. fix a puncture, replace a chain): anything that involves cables continues to daunt me. I’m here also for professional reasons. I work part-time at Wheely Tots, a charitable cycling start up. While my job is largely desk-based, better knowing my way around a bike will undoubtedly support my work.

My fellow students hope to use the course to encourage others to get on their bike as Wheely Tots’ ambassadors and freelancers: Jimmy, a health support worker, Armagan, a yoga teacher, Ana, a Montessori educator, and Gail, a Wheely Tots’ session leader and cycling instructor with 20 years’ experience.

We gather round David as he explains the course set up. I get the impression that the workshop is his sanctuary. The walls are lined with tools, each with a place of their own. Strip lighting bounces off the pristine metal worktops. Down the middle is a row of bikes on stands: bikes that remain in this strip-lit environment, never to be splashed with mud or rain. Tyres that don’t meet tarmac or grass. Instead, hand after amateur hand fiddle with these bikes, eyes under furrowed brows study their parts, trying to figure out how they work.

It is on these bikes that I index gears, remove a tyre without tyre levers, take off and put on a chain, attempt to true a wheel (so hard!), take out and replace ball bearings in a wheel, adjust brakes and check a headset.

It’ll take me a few more goes to really embed these skills into my muscle memory. But here are some of my points of learning, aimed mainly at my fellow novices. They come with the caveat that the bike mechanic in your life may well contest them:

Don’t use M*ck Off to clean your bike. Apparently the fish don’t like it and washing up liquid is gentler on the environment and just as good.

David recommended cleaning your chain every 60 to100 miles. There’s such a thing as a chain cleaner, though I tend to use an old toothbrush.

On the topic of chains, it’s easy to mis-grease them. Rather than drenching the whole thing in lubricant, grease the bits between the links and wipe off excess with a clean rag. Also, you’re aiming for the parts of the chain that connect with the sprockets (the metal discs with teeth that the chain sits on), so better to grease along the top of the lower part of the chain. According to David, rapeseed oil is up to the task.

I finally learnt what a group set is (basically brakes, gears, chain, cranks, and all the connecting cables). Armagan poetically described it as the bike’s nervous system, while the frame is its skeleton.

When you look at the cassette (the collection of sprockets your chain moves up and down on), you can think of it as a mountain: high (gears) at the top, low (gears) at the bottom. As a person who does not retain this vocabulary without an aide memoire, this is really helpful for me.

The adage ‘rightly tightly, lefty loosey’ left me in a confused, frustrated mess at times, because whether you go right or left depends on the position of your hand. Better for me to think clockwise to tighten, anticlockwise to loosen.

Precision is pretty important. Though my brother, a bike mechanic, dismissed the need for torque wrenches.

On that note, being an effective mechanic is less about strength and more about being tuned into your senses. “Soft hands,” David kept saying. Incremental adjustments can be all that you need. In fact, the fewer unnecessary twists and turns you perform on your bike, the less wear and tear its components will sustain. Makes sense.

This is a good place to go for sound information, albeit Shimano-centric. (David doesn’t tolerate much of ‘the rubbish on YouTube’)

Since doing the course, I’ve conducted an informal survey with a few of my friends (all male interestingly) about their approach to bike mechanics. They alll freely admit that they’ve not known exactly what they’re doing when they’ve attempted to fix or service their bikes. This has led to them making some pretty fundamental mistakes, but is equally how the learning’s stuck. At one point, as I worked away at the gears, doubting my ability, David gave me some feedback and said, “We’ll make a mechanic out of you.” It’s not an innate skill: it’s about confidence and practice.

I also have a renewed connection with The Beast. Each time David introduced a topic – the importance of a clean chain, brake adjustments - my thoughts would stray to my bike and I would add another item to a mental to do list. I feel like I understand the machine better and therefore - fingers crossed - I won’t allow niggles to persist for as long as I previously have. And maybe I’ll finally replace that saddle.

#cycling #bikes #learning

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flatheadsforever · 6 years ago

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MOPAR FLATHEADS

(taken from ‘49plymouth.com)

Valves

The valve train is lubricated entirely by the splash effect of the camshaft and valve train. The only pressure feed to the system is to the cam bearings. The oil that escapes the camshaft journals and any splash resulting inside the crankcase from the reciprocating crank mass are the sole source of lubrication for cam followers, springs and valve guides.

Common sensed says that exhaust valves and guides run at a higher temperature than intake valves and guides. Coupled with this temperature differential is the fact that intake guides are subjected to manifold vacuum, (meaning that they tend to suck oil into the guide), while exhaust guides work in the environment of exhaust pressure and heat. These two facts, temperature and pressure, mean that exhaust guides get virtually no lubrication. As a result of this fact, they are one of the more likely components in the valve train to wear out first.

Having said this, a quick look at these engines shows that they, like most automotive engines, sit high in the front. This means that in a splash lubricated valve train, the highest component is also the farthest from the source of splash lubrication – the cam bearings and followers.

Happenstance (and perhaps MoPar engineering) have dictated that the frontmost engine valve in MoPar flathead engines is an exhaust valve – the ones that wears first, anyhow. All this combines to mean that the front valve guide is the hottest, least lubricated and most prone to wear out. Disassembly and inspection of many of these engines have led this writer to believe the front valve guide nearly always exhibits the greatest amount of wear of all the engine guides. Second in likelihood of wear are the remaining exhaust guides, while intake guides rarely if ever show wear. If intake guides do leak, they tend to draw oil into the guide, which tends to aid lubrication. No valve seals are used on flathead engines

MoPar engines use hardened valves and seats as standard equipment. In this area, these engines are truly overbuilt. When valves show wear, they are invariably exhaust valves. Experience has proven that worn exhaust valves are nearly always caused by worn valve guides. Exceptions to this rule can be a piece of carbon or other debris causing a valve to hang open and burn.

Lubrication Systems

Mopar flathead engines were manufactured at a time when the technology of engine oil was still primitive, by today’s standards. Much of the wear restorers encounter upon disassembly is the result of the poor state of available lubricants. The oil we buy and use today is light years ahead of that available fifty years ago.

Bypass oil filtration systems were never very helpful, but happened to be the only thing available in the forties and early fifties for these engines. The nature of bypass filtration is that likely ten percent or less of the total oil circulated by the oil pump ever gets to pass through the filter. The line that feeds these filters is the smallest diameter steel line used in automotive manufacturing. Even this meager amount of volume allowed to pass through the filter system is shut off during periods of low oil pressure, and only opened for circulation when oil pressure rises above a given pressure point. These bypass filters were optional, for many engines were produced without them.

Full-flow oil filter systems, by comparison, filter ALL oil that is picked up by the pump and circulated inside the engine. Several restorers have performed work-around adaptations for these engines to adapt full-flow filtration to them. This improvement, in this writer’s estimation, goes a long way toward extending engine life. Full-flow oil filtration coupled with modern high detergent oil technology, will allow these already-well-built engines to last much longer between overhauls.

Engine Blocks

Do not be fooled by the small (218/230) cubic displacement of these engines. They are heavy block castings that warm up slowly due to their large mass. The water jacket inside the block is only present in the top several inches of the casting, where the heat of combustion is greatest. On the passengers’ side is the valve chamber, and there is no coolant flow below the level of the water distribution tube, well above the camshaft level. On the driver’s side, the water jacket extends down to the block core plugs and thingy, but the flow is mainly limited to the upper section. The area on the thingy side is typically where sediment and dirt settle inside the block. I have seen these blocks filled with sediment above the tops of the core plugs at the rear. This of course must all be cleaned out as part of any overhaul. Remove all block core plugs and use whatever method you have at hand to make sure everything is clean and free of sediment and dirt.

It is logical to believe that these fifty-plus year old engines may have several hundred thousands of miles on them, in spite of what you want to believe. Logic further dictates that cylinder heads have been removed several times for valve and piston work during the life of the engine. While the head is off, it is a good thing to check the deck with a straight edge, both for warppage and for distortion. It is not likely that an engine has been overheated sufficiently to warp the entire block casting, but close inspection usually shows some heaving or mushrooming of the deck surfaces around each head bolt hole. I have been successful in removing these distortions with a sharp flat file. Just start at one end and swipe crossways over the deck area. This will reveal high spots around each head bolt hole. These can be filed down to a true flat area with a little diligence. The result is a more precise deck surface against which the head gasket can seat. Most folks know that heads can be safely milled sixty or seventy thousandths to improve compression ratios. Even if this is not important to you, a resurfacing of the head is recommended, just to be sure of a flat surface for the gasket. If you can afford it and your block is at the machine shop for cleaning anyhow, have them resurface the deck a few thousandths to get a true surface. The same advice would not hurt a bit for the manifold gasket surface on the block.

Crankcase Ventilation

Another element of engine technology that has gained vastly from modern engineering understanding is crankcase ventilation. Originally designed only to ventilate the crankcase of fumes and condensation, this system is forced into double duty when an engine begins to wear excessively, for now it also has to handle blow-by products of combustion that have escaped past worn pistons and rings..

Positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) systems were originally mandated with a view toward limiting crankcase emissions. A secondary benefit of the PCV system is its ability to remove much more of the condensation and moisture from the crankcase than was originally possible with the primitive road draft tube that was always open to the atmosphere. Yet another advantage of the PCV system is its ability to disperse any blow-by from the crankcase by returning it in the engine.

It is easy to modify these flathead six engines from the original road draft system to the newer, superior PCV system. This is true mainly due to Chrysler’s involvement in military vehicle production during WWII. Many of these military vehicles were equipped from the factory with engines designed to ford streams and run in semi-submerged conditions for short periods of time. One part of these engine sealing systems was the PCV system designed to keep water OUT of the crankcase.

A direct result of this fact is that most military vehicle parts suppliers are equipped to offer the PCV adapter necessary for this conversion. This writer found one at Vintage Power Wagons. The adapter is a round, cast metal piece that bolts to the rear of the block in the same spot as the original road draft tube. From this adapter, 3/8-inch tubing is routed forward and up to the intake manifold. A pipe plug in the center of the intake on the outboard side can be removed and this line connected to it as a vacuum source. In series in this line must be a PCV valve, of the type typically used on any engine of equivalent cubic inch displacement. Because of the closeness of this vacuum line to the hot exhaust manifold, this writer chose to use an all-brass PCV valve, available from the same military source. A PCV system on these engines, coupled with modern oil and a by-pass filter, offer a recipe for extended engine life.

Thermostats

It is impossible to operate an internal combustion engine without generating condensation in the crankcase. It is just a fact of life. If the moisture is removed, it presents no problem. If it is not removed, the result is an eventual buildup of sludge.

The only way by which the moisture of condensation can be removed from a crankcase is evaporation. This evaporation can only take place in the presence of heat and air movement. If the crankcase and engine block heat is not high enough for evaporation to occur, the condensation moisture will remain inside the block. Since this is water, which is heavier than oil, it will go to the bottom of the crankcase or valve chamber. It is for this reason that these are the areas where sludge is typically found in greatest quantity on tear-down. This writer has disassembled many of these engines were more than one pint of sludge was present in the valve chambers alone.

The best remedy for condensation removal is a high temperature thermostat. Vehicles built in the forties and fifties (and before) were designed to use alcohol based antifreeze. This required the use of low temp thermostats. Today we use glycol based antifreezes with much higher boiling points. Actually, the use of a 50/50 mixture of permanent antifreeze and water RAISES the boiling point of the coolant. All this is in aid of explaining why higher, rather than lower temperature thermostats are beneficial to longer engine life. The use of a 160 or 170 degree thermostat today with permanent antifreeze is an invitation for sludge to form in the crankcase. You are doing your engine no favor at all by keeping it running cool, in spite of how it may seem to your own sensitivities.

Not only do higher temp stats cause higher engine operating temperatures which aid in condensation removal, but they also help to raise the temperature more quickly, resulting in less cold engine operating time. Once stat temperature is reached, normal cooling will take place, but at a little higher temperature. Yet another reason why these flatheads need more heat than some engines is that they are heavy castings. A flathead six cylinder 218 cid engine weighs several hundred pounds more than a small block Chevy 350. This casting mass takes TIME to heat up and get up to operating temperature.

Many owners believe that when their dash gauge shows normal temperature, the engine is truly warmed up. Nothing could be further from the truth. Remember this one idea: an engine may warm up and the thermostat open to full circulation long before the block casting around the valve chambers has come up to full operating temperatures. It is this writer’s estimate that it takes nearly thirty minutes of engine operation for a typical flathead block to reach normal operating temperature in cool weather.

Please remember, I’m not talking about the thermostat or the top radiator tank, but the block casting, itself. This is where the condensation occurs and must evaporate from. In order to keep these block casting spots free of sludge, they must get up to full operating temperature. Proof that many of these engines have spent much of their lives running too cold is the sludge found inside the blocks. Granted, engine oils and filtration were of poor quality by comparison to today’s technology, but those engines that are run warmer are always cleaner. An example of this is the fact that larger truck engines are usually found to have less sludge than small trucks and automobiles. Check it out.

Consider a newly restored vehicle with a completely new and clean engine assembly. To keep this engine clean, it should not be started and driven short distances, again because the block will not have an opportunity to achieve operating temperatures. When I use my old stuff, I start it, let it run at idle for a while, then drive it, hopefully at least thirty minutes. I will jack up a car and push it in or of a stall to avoid starting a cold engine for only a few minutes, for this very reason.

It goes without saying that all this talk about getting engines up to temperature is doubly true for the exhaust systems. Exhausts live linger in an atmosphere where they warm up completely each time they are used. Why do you think tail pipes rot off three or four times before head pipes and mufflers? They are always cooler and warm up slower, since they are farther from the source of heat.

Cooling Systems

Cooling systems seem to be one of the more misunderstood components of older engines. In order to understand them, it is necessary to understand the combustion process. A typical gasoline engine running at 2000 rpm under no load will generate a certain amount of heat, but this will soon be realized and stabilized.

Add to this engine now an increased load on the crankshaft, and many things happen at once. First, in order to maintain rpm, the throttle plates must be opened further. This is done automatically if the engine is governed, or manually in an automotive application. The amount of fuel entering the engine increases, the result of which is an immediate increase in combustion chamber pressures and temperatures. It is this sort of use that cooling systems must handle in order to protect an engine. Normal driving under light load barely works the cooling system at all. It is at higher engine loads that the cooling system must be able to function well.

From the engine’s perspective and from a combustion standpoint, the hotter an engine temperature, the better and more efficiently the engine will. Fuel atomizes more freely and the combustion process thrives in an atmosphere of heat. This is difficult for many older vehicle owners to comprehend, yet it is fundamentally true . . . . . . Up TO THE POINT where the engine will begin to suffer metallurgical from the heat. Therefore, the job of the cooling system is to allow the engine to run as hot as safely possible in order to aid the combustion process, yet keep it cool enough to protect it.

Engines are designed to withstand lots of heat safely. Unfortunately, the margin for safety between “hot enough to run well” and “too hot for engine safety” is not a very wide one. When metal parts are heated, they expand. When they cool again, they contract. This cycle can happen over and over with complete safety, as long as the extremes of the heat range are not reached. If metal parts are heated so much that they do not contract to their normal tolerance after cool-down, the metal is said to have warped. This action is most often noticed on cylinder heads and manifold castings that have been subjected to hundreds of heat/cool cycles.. Typically, the remedy for a warped casting is resurfacing.

An example of this action is the typical small block Chevy cylinder head, where the valve arrangement is such that two exhaust valves sit adjacently in the middle of the cylinder head. This is nearly always the point of failure with these castings, for this is the hottest spot on the component.

How does this all relate to MoPar flatheads? The design of these engines is such that a water distribution tube is used in the cooling system to aid in dispersing coolant to the bottom of the exhaust valve seat castings. In this sense, these engines are truly overbuilt, for this is a feature not used by very many other manufacturers of the time. An analogy to this feature would be oil nozzles directed to piston crowns in modern diesel engines – a feature that goes far to extend engine life. Flathead radiators are also overbuilt from a size standpoint, and are truly impressive in their ability to transfer heat from the engine and transfer it to the air. When these engines are warmed up to 180 – 200 degrees F, they run happily all day, run more efficiently and stay cleaner. They live linger, as well.

Having said all this, the water distribution tube is a critical link in the cooling system. Never pull a water pump without at least pulling and checking the distribution tube. It goes without saying that no engine overhaul should ever be contemplated without inspection of this part as well. The tubes are reproduced by several vendors and are available.

Bottom Line

If you truly want to do the best you can for your MoPar flathead, here’s my recipe:

• Modern high detergent motor oil in a clean engine

• Full-flow oil filtration system in place of the part time bypass system

• PCV system instead of the primitive road draft tube

• High temperature (180 or higher) thermostat

• Good quality paper air filter instead of an oil bath system

Rear Main Bearing Seals

Engines built before 1951 used a rear main seal that incorporated a flat metal flange with three screw holes in it. These seals required removal of the flywheel to allow replacement of the top half. Later flathead engines used a different neoprene seal design that could be rolled into place in the top half by loosening the crankshaft, much as you would in replacing a top rear main bearing. The two types of seal are not compatible reciprocally, due to block casting differences.

Timing Chain/Gear Lubrication

Engines built before 1951 use a pressurized oil nozzle of about 1/16-inch diameter to lubricate the timing chain and components. This tube protrudes from the block above the center of the crankshaft gear and points downward, and has a small bracket attached by one screw to the front of the block. The oil is sourced from the front oil passage leading from the main galley on the left side of the block to the front camshaft bearing.

This system provides positive lubrication to timing components and is very nice . . . . . . as long as it stays clean and free from sludge. It was abandoned in later production in favor of an oil slinger disc placed behind the crankshaft timing gear that supposedly slung oil up and onto the chain. Since the slinger lives above the normal oil level in the oil pan, it can operate only when the engine is running. In this writer’s humble opinion, the earlier pressurized system was far superior, and was discontinued only because of the poor quality oil available at the time and the difficulty in getting the block hot enough for this oil component to get warm enough to keep sludge from forming. It would be interesting to compare timing chain wear between two otherwise identical engines, to observe which of the two systems really provides best lubrication and least wear.

Connecting Rods/Caps

Somewhere around 1951 again, a change was made in connecting rod and cap design on the 218/230 engines. Earlier engine design used a special very thin-wall lock washer that sat in a relief on the cap to retain the rod nut. Later engines dispensed with this relief area and used a flat boss on the cap and instead of the thin lock washer used a split lock nut with several small perforations in the top half. What is interesting is that both rod types carry the identical casting number.

The two rod cap types each require use of the correct fastener, and cannot be mixed or matched. If you have the earlier type rods, you must use the lock washers and nuts. This writer has been unsuccessful in finding a vendor source for these washers. They are quite easy to loose on disassembly, especially if you don’t know they are even there. When installed, they are not visible due to the recess in which they sit. And they are hard to find when they are dropped. Ask me how I know. It goes without saying that rod caps can never be interchanged on connecting rods.

Oil Pans – Oil Leaks

The front of the oil pan area on these engines presents a small challenge for first time restorers. There are several places from which oil can leak, all of which will show up at the front pan area. In order to understand the nature of the situation, it is necessary for the reader to have seen the individual parts.

The front of the oil pan has a wide cork gasket which rides against an aluminum saddle, designed just for this purpose. The aluminum saddle is held in place by two machine screws, and must be removed before access can be had to the front main bearing bolts, for they are partially covered by the saddle.

The engine timing cover gasket must seal the cover itself, the front of the block and this aluminum saddle on which rides the oil pan gasket. It is at the juncture of these three pieces of metal – block, timing cover and aluminum saddle, that oil leaks can easily arise if proper assembly is not observed. This might be a good place to mention that the timing cover has one bolt on the passenger’s side that enters the cover from the rear of the block flange, in direct opposition to all the other cover bolts.

In addition to this area of potential leakage is the front main oil seal that sits in the timing cover and rides on the crankshaft pulley. Always check the seal area on these pulleys for wear. It is not unusual to find a definite groove worn into the pulley seal area from seal lip and dirt wear at this point. A worn pulley will cause a new seal to leak. Speedy sleeves are available, as are “trick” seals that ride on a new and different spot on the pulley to avoid the worn groove spot.

This writer also likes to incorporate a good sized magnet inside the oil pan on reassembly for attracting any wear metal pieces that may get into the crankcase. Old flat speaker magnets are perfect for this purpose. Never throw one away. An ounce of prevention . . . . . .

Miscellany

Engine assembly involves using many bolts that thread into water jacket passages. This is true for head bolts, manifold bolts and a few of the upper timing cover bolts as well as the three water pump bolts. It is important that these bolt threads have some form of waterproof sealer used on them. Clean, tight threads can still leak fluid past them if not sealed. There are no shortcuts to cleanliness that work here. Never use or hang a dirty part on a rebuilt engine.

Engine reassembly is fairly critical work. It cannot he done in a less than clean environment. With all the engines I have ever overhauled, I spent about two hours of parts cleaning time for every half hour of assembly. Fasteners and related block thread holes must be completely clean. The only way this writer has been successful at this task is to use thread taps and dies on each individual part. I have cleaned head bolts on a wire wheel grinder to the point that they shined, yet when the threads were chased with a die, a pile of dirt and carbon showed up on the vise. Do not worry about removing metal with a tap or die. If you are using the correct size, the threads will not be damaged.

MoPar flathead engines were manufactured with very low compression ratios, even for their day. This engineering was based much on the octane levels of fuel available to the public. Flatheads respond very nicely to an increase in compression ratio. This can be accomplished quickly and cheaply by milling material from the bottom of the cylinder head. Doing this will also assure that the head surface is true and free from warpage, as well as offering an opportunity to increase compression and engine performance.

Unleaded fuel offers no problems to these engines, in this writer’s opinion. They certainly do NOT need high octane fuel. Using it in flathead engines will not be beneficial in any way, contrary to the opinions of many. Valves and seats are already of superior quality from the original manufacturer. Just make sure when you set initial engine timing that the engine does not ping or preignite under load.

On the subject of engine timing, here is one often ignored area of performance – the distributor. Distributors have two timing advance mechanisms incorporated in their design – vacuum and centrifugal. The vacuum advance is visible on the outside of the distributor and can easily be tested by mouth or vacuum pump. If it doesn’t leak it will be okay, as long as the distributor breaker plate moves freely inside the cap.

Centrifugal advance units are harder to see, for they are underneath the breaker plate that holds the contact points and condenser. These mechanisms are usually trouble free, but may wear over time. Short of removing the distributor and having it tested on a stand, the only way to test a centrifugal advance unit is with an advance-type timing light and a knowledgeable mechanic. Specs for both vacuum and centrifugal advance units are available with other tune-up data, and of course are a requirement before checking either advance unit. Suffice to say that lots of flatheads are weak in these areas. When one performs well, it is usually a sign that both systems are functioning correctly.

This still leaves the issue of initial timing, which refers to the relationship of the engine to the distributor, and is adjusted by turning the distributor in the block while the engine is running, with the use of a timing light. Power timing, advocated by a few, aids little with these engines, unless you are a performance buff. If such is the case, have at it . . . .

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sevayu1 · 2 years ago

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Discover the power of Ayurveda for Eye Care: Everything You Need to Know!

How may it feel if you have lost vision or have poor eyesight? Perhaps, you won’t think of the situation even in your nightmare! We are habituated to using mobile phones, laptops, or computers for the last few decades because of our daily work. The artificial light emitted from LED screens is harmful to our eyes which may affect our hormonal levels badly. Due to this, we have to take extra care of our eye health.

Ayurveda, the ancient Indian System of Medicine, takes a holistic approach to eye care, and the main aim is to find out the problems from the root. The eyes are the most sensitive organ, and hence they require special care to avoid diseases. Here are some common practices suggested by the experts at Ayurvedic eye clinics to keep away numerous issues related to our eyes.

Ayurveda Eye Care Tips:-

Consultation and Diagnosis: At first, an Ayurveda expert will assess one’s eye condition, and check the medical case history, lifestyle habits, and other necessary factors. Some important techniques involve pulse diagnosis (Nadi Parikshan) and Visual Examination like Netra Tarpan (Eyes Therapy).

Netra Tarpan (Eyes Therapy)

Rooted in ancient wisdom, Netra Tarpan is a specialized Ayurvedic treatment that nourishes the eyes and strengthens our eye muscles. In this treatment, the Ayurveda experts pour herb-infused ghee over the eyelids in an enclosure built around the eye made of black mung flour. This therapy is effective for various vision disorders and aids overall eye health.

How it works

Most people face some common ailments like heaviness of the eyelids, difficulty in opening eyes, conjunctivitis, dry eyes, and blurry vision. Depending on the individual’s dosha, the medicinal concoction has been chosen.

The key points (marmas) of our eyes which are being suffered the most during stress and pollution are :

Ajna and Staphani: These vital points focus on the connection between our eyes, brain, and mind.

Apanga and Shankha: These two points release the tension and heaviness around the eyes.

Phana: This particular point is associated with the nose area and divided into two parts – Soma and Agni. Soma helps cool the eyes whereas Agni connects the eyes with our brain.

Urdhaw and Adhoakshi: These marmas provide Prana or energy to the eyes.

Depending on the dosha of the patient, the tenure of the therapy is suggested, and it can extend from one to five days.

The Netra Tarpan Procedure:-

At first, in Ayurvedic eye clinics experienced practitioners or Ayurvedic therapists make an enclosure around the eyes using a special dough made from black mung flour. Then they fill the enclosure with some medicated ghee or concoction according to an individual’s dosha. After that, they provide a gentle massage to each eye to increase circulation. After completing the entire process, one needs to rest the eyes for a short span of time. One must follow the instructions given by the Ayurvedic therapist. The process takes almost 30 minutes of time.

Benefits of Netra Tarpan:-

It moisturizes the dryness of our eyes.

It is beneficial for blurry vision, and conjunctivitis.

Improves vision by strengthening eye muscles.

Nourishes eyes and soothes eye strain.

Reduces eye fatigue and calms tired eyes.

Relieves burning sensations, itchiness, and redness of eyes.

Lubricates the eyes and helps in producing tears.

Helpful for disorders like computer vision syndrome and glaucoma.

Enhances the optic nerves for overall eye health.

Indications of Tarpana:-

Tarpana is helpful for the following conditions

Glaucoma

Optic Neuritis

Diabetic Retinopathy

Computer Vision

Conjunctivitis

Refractive errors

Corneal ailments

Ayurvedic Eye Care Tips:-

To maintain healthy eyesight, therapists recommend some eye care tips which are mentioned in the following points:

In the morning, wash your eyes with a splash of cold water. It removes the dried mucus and dirt and lubricates our eyes.

It has been recommended not to use any chemical beauty products or cosmetics around the eyes. If needed, try an Ayurvedic kajal instead of chemical products.

Take a head massage daily to relax the muscles that are necessary for visual activity and stimulation of tear glands.

You may rub the palms of your hands and keep them to your eyes. For 2 to 3 minutes, relax in this position and try repeating after every 30 minutes.

Use sunglasses or hats while going outside for long hours, especially during strong exposure to sun rays.

Use protective eyewear while doing work in front of computers and laptops.

Excessive stress may create a negative impact on the eyes, so indulge yourself in yoga, meditation, and stress management techniques.

You may use some herbal eye drops if necessary, but consult an Ayurveda practitioner before using them.

Maintaining a healthy diet is necessary for a healthy vision, so include Vitamin-A, Omega-3 fatty acids, and enough antioxidants in your diet.

Take a break after every 20 minutes while working on digital devices and look at an object 20 feet away for at least 20-30 seconds.

Blink your eyes often and rotate your eyeballs gently.

The ancient practice of Netra Tarpan in Ayurvedic eye clinics offers a holistic and rejuvenating approach to eye care. It has been practiced for centuries to support the health and vitality of the eyes through natural ways. It is advised that Netra Tarpan should be performed in the afternoon at an ideal temperature which is neither extremely cold nor hot. One should take this treatment under proper guidance.

#ayurveda #health #ayurvedic #eyeclinic

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