Making paper backed cloth for bookbinding
I tried my hand recently on making my own book cloth, not because I can’t get any, but because there are so many fun patterns and colours around. To be honest, I expect bought book cloth to be superior for all the ways it’s finished to be more resilient towards dirt and and such, but that doesn’t say self made cloth is bad at all!
There are different ways to achieve a paper backing, I went for the backing with paper and starch paste because
a) if I mess up I can always do it over no harm done, no material lost
b) I have my doubts about the durabilty of heat activated glues and their durability
c) using paste is just so much cheaper
So first up was cooking starch paste.
I don’t have a ratio for that. I put a spoon of starch into a pot, add some water to get rid of any lumps and let it soak a few minutes (usually just long enough to get some water boiling), then I slowly pour over the boiling water while stirring the starch and at some point it turns from white to translucent and lumpy and I stop when there’s a certain thickness.
When the paste has cooled it press it through a mesh and add some more water as needed. (It’s usually rather thick at that point.)
(and yes, my mesh is a nylon sock. I don’t own a fancy horeshair sieve and this stores much easier)
Then I prepared my cloth and the paper I was going to use for backing. The final sheets have the warp and the grain direction run parallel for better usage and less warping (at least that’s the theory, I have yet to use that selfmade cloth to find out).
The limiting factor here was the width of the web of tissue paper I used. Because I also need the paper to be 2,5cm -5cm larger than the piece of fabric in order to get a smooth sheet of book cloth. Having around 5cm for an edge makes it far easier to get the paper on the cloth even if there is a little skew.
I moistened the pre-washed, but un-ironed fabric (I have some cotton and synthetic fabric, none of them are elastic) and smoothed it down to a flat surface that won’t be needed for a couple of hours (preferably over night).
Glas would be best but I didn’t have that, so I picked two work benches for that.
I used plenty of water, which was a good thing, I’d say because even when smoothed down, a bit more water made the synthetic fabric wrinkly again.
I sprayed the later front side, turned the cloth around and sprayed the backside. Brushed the water in with a clean brush until the fabric clung smooth to the surface.
Then I spread the paste on the paper and put it on top of the backside of the fabric, brushed down the paper on top of the cloth with a clean and dry brush to get rid of any airbubbles. Starting in the middle of the fabric and brushing along the long side to the sides to push out the air. Then I gave it a brush down along the short side too. (the slightly brighter stretches of paper on the left are where the air is still caught under the paper, on the right is the paper all smoothed down)
Sometimes I had to lift the edfe of the paper carefully to let out some air or get rid of a too large wrinkle that was building up in the paper.
I weighed the cloth and paper down with blotting paper and blotting board as well as some wooden boards, but only to make them dry faster.
In consideration of the table surface I cut only one corner loose after the coth had dried and loosened the rest by running a very flat bone folder all around the edges.
I had great success with the cotton fabric. only minimal bleed through of paste at the edges and a slight smudge in the middle of one sheet.
the synthetic fiber... not so much. While others before that one had taken well to the paste, the one with those shades of blue and purple did not. it was a mess to smooth down and apparently not smooth enough. when I pried it loose it was all bubbly and a lot of fabric was not adhered to the paper backing.
I scrapped that one, I pulled the paper off, washed it out again and this time pressed it while drying, so it would be smooth before the next attempt.
Cleaning up the surface was easy by the way. It was all plastered with dried starch paste, but I simply sprayed it with water, let it sit for a bit and wiped it off. No scrubbing needed at all.
56 notes
·
View notes
The concept of Chuuya reverting back to enhancing people's abilities is so funny to me, I always wondered what would happen if he and Dazai touched.
Would Dazai nullify his enhancing or would Chuuya enhance his nullifying?
Both powers work through touch, and there are no exceptions to No Longer Human, so it should be nullified instantly and do nothing.
I have been told this is the boring answer. The FUNNY answer is that it causes a split-second reaction between them touching and NLH taking effect, and so when they accidentally brush hands they experience the equivalent of a static shock and both start yelling and complaining
ON THAT NOTE
I wanted to be funny in those comics, but actually, I was thinking about what rules his ability could have. I think it's more interesting if it's always active, because that way he still has somewhat the potential of being a walking disaster with his ability. And if it's always active and works through touch, I want it to work the same way NLH works, which means he'd need to touch the person directly (skin/hair) or maybe the tool they use (Kunikida's notebook) for it to work on them. That's where the gloves come into play :)
I've also seen some people wonder about Corruption (it's gone as long as All Men Are Equal is active) and what it could mean for skk. I know that's it's a common to bring up how NLH is the only thing to stop Corruption, how Chuuya relies on Dazai for it, how Dazai going away took that power away, etc etc etc.
But I really don't think that Corruption was used all that much during their mafia days. I think we're seeing the crunchiest parts of their stories; the amount of times Corruption has been used so far in the story is not representative of the average amount of crises in Yokohama. Otherwise, they would not have survived Dazai going away for two entire years, let's be real.
Their partnership was built on more than a trump card. Dazai is not such a poor strategist and Chuuya isn't that weak without Corruption that they would need to settle for their "last resort" every month or so. All of this to say that Dazai's relationship to Chuuya is not dependant on Corruption. Corruption was never their go-to solution, and while it was its use that landed them their nickname of Double Black during the Dragon's Head Conflict, it's not what made them work as a team to begin with.
edit: why would Chuuya's ability be ability enhancing pre-lab
365 notes
·
View notes
(Sorry if this had been asked/ answered before)
If the bits of paper get left in the finished quilt, won't they make it stiff and/or crinkly?
It depends! For my Hubris Quilting, I'm using card stock for my paper pieces, and that needs to be removed because it's very stiff. Pretty much all modern quilters remove their papers, whatever type they use. But historically (as you saw in that super cool quilt I reblogged!) it was more common to leave the papers in. You would use scraps of everyday paper, so they were lightweight and much more flexible than cardstock, and a lot of historical papers aren't as crinkly as modern ones; they tend to have a softer feel and not be as crisp. This comes down to the material the paper was made from, the papermaking process, whether the paper was "sized" during or after its formation, etc. But basically, while leaving the papers in would add a little bit of bulk and structure to the quilt, it wouldn't cause the same problems that modern papers would, and since quilts are very structured textiles anyway it wouldn't interfere with its use. It works almost more like modern interfacing. Plus, it would save you a lot of time to not need to remove hundreds and hundreds of papers!
30 notes
·
View notes