#patterning

[vinceaddams]

Greetings :) Do you have any recommendations for textbooks on making modern clothes. I eventually want to learn the basics of constructing clothes from scratch. I can do mending. I just don't really understand patterns or pattern making.

Pattern Making for Fashion Design by Helen Joseph Armstrong is the one we used as a textbook in college (and it's also what The Closet Historian recommends) so I think that's a pretty good one for lots of pattern drafting & manipulation.

We didn't have a textbook for most of the sewing portions of the course though, and I can't think of any for just general construction information. I'm sure there are some out there though.

We did have Jackets for Real People by Marta Alto, Pati Palmer, and Susan Neall for tailoring class, but as the title suggests it's very jacket specific.

[bunnyshideawayy]

fellow cosplay / costuming lovers / sewers!!!

i need some advice!! i’ll pop some reference pictures in here:

how do i start to pattern out some sleeves similar to the ones on this dress? i won’t lie- i am taking the easy way out and constructing the bodice over an old already made corset i have laying around and have everything ready expect for the sleeves and the gold trimming around the top! i don’t have any similar sleeve patterns and i have the worst time making my own, what could i do to make this easier on myself?!

dress / costume is from “The Court Jester” 1955!

[ezekiellsplayground]

Finally bought the Quinn headbase from DVC so now I can finish off the moffman mask to accurately fit me! Discovered that I could pattern the hood with the jaw closed as I don’t need excess slack for the moving jaw because of how the mask is sculpted.

[attlebridge]

Draping in stretch fabric for 30cm ImomoDoll.

[stardustedtea]

🍪 Gingersnap 🌸

•

AND THE SERIES IS COMPLETE!!!

[shambles-rambles]

progress on my bakugo jacket so far

I’ve also got the panels for the lining assembled but those aren’t as cool. got one more sleeve and one more front to do before I can start assembly.

my mock-up jacket for reference

I am totally bragging about my hand drawn patterns as well

this insane thing is my own creation

I would not advise making a 24 piece pattern as your first jacket

don’t be like me

[castrian-cosplays]

Labrador’s Body Suit

How I made it part 1!

Hello my name is Cass. I am a cosplayer of 11 years and a Cosmaker of just over two. So take my sewing explanations with a grain of salt I only have a vague idea of what I’m doing. But here is the costume I made! With the original reference sheet.

So how did I start? Well first I got a bunch of sheets from a thrift store so I could make as many mock ups(test runs but for costumes) as I needed.

So with sheets in hand I broke down the pieces of the costume. When I started on a piece I always outline where the visable seams are. From there I figure out a few things:

1) am i going to need structure? (Boning, a corset, adding another seam etc)

2) what types of fabric would they have available to them? What fits the character while keeping true to the design?

3) Am I going to face any sensory issues? How can I add accommodations to the cosplay for that?

4) How will I get it on and off?

Things like this are important when making a costume. Sometimes I get head first into a costume and forget to sew in buttons or a zipper because I get so focused on making it accurate than wearable. So here are the answers to this questions:

1) Yes, two boning channels along the front seams to help add support. Due to the weight of the fabric I’ll need at least medium weight faux whalebone. (I had some in my stash)

2) at least 3 different fabrics. Two different shades of black and a black fur. I knew I wanted a Wool for the chest and sleeve part of the pattern(fabric pictures below). I found brocade for a steal and just bought the whole bolt.

3) yes! Brocade and wool are both itchy which means I MUST install a lining out of a fabric i can handle. (Twill is my go to, it looks nice and feels okay). Fur is tbd on overstimulation.

4) B E E E G zipper (22in zipper to be exact with fasteners for the collar)

Starting the Pattern

So starting my pattern I always trace out the seam lines and see what problems will arise when I begin the pattern. I knew the pattern was going to look incredibly weird. With the seamless back design, the personal desire of adding pockets, the seam somehow overlapping at the top(normally seen on the hems of men’s jackets. It’s not apparent in the photos but in the animation it is), the back situation? With the corset back and thread that disappears?

I knew the draping method was going to be my best friend so I grabbed my bed sheets, heat erase marker, and washi tape and got to work. I marked out my pattern on my dress form and draped the pattern over it.

The biggest questions looming over me were starting to get overwhelming but here’s how I did it.

Problem: Making the corset back look neat

Solution: Adding enough room and fabric allowance to flip the fabric over and allow my eyelets to go through a double layer of my brocade fabric(a heavy structured fabric). Allowed for the seamless connection to the bodice piece of the bodysuit.

Problem: Seamless back panels

Solution: Sewing the lining fabric to JUST the tail coat portion of the pattern and sewing the back of the pants to the lining and NOT the actual brocade

Luckily I have experience in men’s tailoring so the funky top hems were not a problem. I just had to remember to account for the extra big seams I was going to have for my boning channels.

Part 2(coming soon)

[nurpowurpo]

Bracken be coming along nicely. Funny hoofies tee hee

[improbable-implosions]

So this one is another I don't have a ton of good progress photos on, as I initially threw it together in a MAJOR hurry, with an impending international flight the next day, not to mention most of the packing I hadn't finished yet!

Y'see, normally I'm used to being easily 85 to 90% packed before such a big trip, so I kinda autopiloted into going "oh, I don't have a neck pillow! Gonna need one of those! Even despite the chaos, to be honest, it was quite a fun process! I'd never done drop patterning before, and it was fascinating to see the difference in my initial idea of what the pattern pieces looked like, in comparison to what came out after a bit of clever draping and tracing, let alone seeing how I basically managed to pirate my partner's neck pillow, haha!

I haven't done a lot of stuffed work before, though, so I don't quite have down how to get the relative density of something like a pillow down pat, even if I was using stuffing from an old set of pillows I was loath to discard. Perhaps (definitely) as a result of that, I had to throw a patch onto the split it gained smack dab in the middle! Made for something to do on the train after the flight, and I luckily had the presence of mind to bring along some of the scraps of the material I made the pillow out of. Is it a 4-h project? nah, I could have straightened out some of those stitches better! but it works, and quite well, I might add. I even managed to get my shorts (whose various mends we've seen around here before) surviving through all the walking I had to do over there!

[enbeebeedrawing]

[puzzledjaypros]

Nubby!

We are so excited to have finished Marin's adorable tail this #FursuitFriday ! Space Birb created the 3D model which we used to make our pattern. It's a new way of working we can't wait to do again!

Posted using PostyBirb

[livielizardcos]

frieren mock up is nearly complete! i’ve been tirelessly working for 3 months on this costume. the patterning is deceptively tricky (sleeves are my enemy!)

hoping to have her complete (with staff included!) in time for metrocon this summer <3

[fabrickind]

Hello! Hope it is okay to ask for advice on this but I’m trying to make a dress with deeply weird structure, specifically Rhea’s white dress from Fire Emblem: Three Houses. It has what looks like a single box pleat at center front, but is otherwise extremely fitted. I’m trying to figure out how to get the dress to fit correctly without the extra fabric just causing it to be extremely loose at the waist.

I have some ideas of how it could be accomplished (I was thinking of adding princess seams and flat lining it to a lining without the center front pleat to try and force it to lay smooth) but I don’t know if that would work or if there’s a better approach. Similarly I was thinking of trying to add boning, but most of the patterns I’ve gone through don’t call for boning and I’m a) not sure how to add it in and b) not sure if it gets me anything for this dress.

Any advice you have would be appreciated!

Hello there!

I assume the dress on the left here? She seems to have a few outfits, but this is all I could find with what you describe.

My mind immediately went to a robe a la francaise, which has a similar pleated detail in the back, but I'm not sure if that's the effect you want.

Looking at patterns for those would probably help a lot in conceptualizing, though. It seems to be that the skirt portion has an extension in the back that goes up higher and then is sewn into the neckline, creating that flat pleated back with the space between it and the bodice, but still being integrated into the skirt.

This requires the bodice and skirt to be cut as separate pieces, however, and you may not want that. In that case.....honestly? I'd make the pleat part as a separate piece and sew it to the neckline and the hemline so it gives the illusion of being incorporated into the skirt, but doesn't require any horizontal seams at the waist. If you want a really bonkers pattern and don't mind a seam further down the skirt where it starts to flare, you can add the extension to that instead of having a waist seam.

Bad diagrams of what I mean lmao (that second one someone looks like Texas is flipping you off)

You might be able to incorporate it as the full dress? but your pattern would be absolutely whack and I wouldn't recommend it.

If you have questions or don't understand, let me know.

Hope that helps! Good luck :]

[clownkissersinternational]

This masking paper actually works so much better then wrapping paper for patterning

Who knew buying hobby specific tools would make your specific hobby easier