Burda Style, September 2022
This issue offers a nice variety of patterns, all in multiple sizes, for the coming fall and winter season. On the cover you see in a print Dress 110 which has flanges at the shoulders and a pleating at the waist as well as cuffs on the sleeves. There are other dresses-- see the sketches-- including two sheaths, one with a high neckline and another with a lower one, plus a button-front dress which is cut almost as closely as a sheath which may not be the best idea when it comes to easy movement.
The handsome wrapped dress you see in black with brocade collar and cuffs here Dress 129 comes in plus sizes and shuts with a single button at the waist. The left front has what they call an underlap--an extension which makes it differ from the right front-- and the directions say: “Sew underlap to allowance of the right side seam on the inside of left front... or secure with snap fastener.” Which left me confused. If you sew the dress closed how do you get into it? If you use a snap, will that be enough, along with the single button, to hold the dress shut? I am thinking it would make some sense to create an inner tie at the left front edge and at the right inner seam allowance, tie yourself in and then button over to the right. You will need something to counter the strain of being placed on that single button. All that being said, I do like the lines of this dress and the way the curved darts echo the curved lapels.
The two masterpieces, which is Burda speak for complicated tailored styles, are the boxy, short peacoat with saddle shoulders Jacket 117 which you see here in black and white check and the sketched Parka 108 which we usually call a duffle coat here in the US. Both of which are garments you make with the long-term in mind, so choose a fabric carefully, something you will want to wear for years.
There are also easy patterns like Top 102 which see here in a red knit with a tie at the neck and a boxy shape. It is a nice casual piece, and you can see more in the sketches. On the more sophisticated end is Blouse 130 which comes in plus sizes only. It has a deep v-neck (which you could bring up a bit) and a neck tie as well, then flares towards the waist with the addition of a pleated inset at center. They used silk satin, a lovely fabric with drape and heft; then they used the matte side for the body and the shiny side for the tie and the saddle shoulders. You can imagine a graceful flow to the fabric as you walk.
As you can see from the sketches, there are lots more patterns, including trousers and children’s wear. All the patterns and multiple sizes are included on overlapping lines, so you must copy them out on pattern paper in order to make them. Clear, written instructions without illustrations are included for every pattern, and then two longer sewing lessons with step-by-step instructions, plus a glossary which is Burda speak for extended instructions for particular techniques like putting in an invisible zipper or a lined back vent. In all, a very good value which has me eager to do more fall sewing.
You can find it at your local fabric store or newsstand, or online here: https://www.burdastyle.com/subscription-burda-style/subscribe-to-burda-style.html
5 notes
·
View notes
The past week's work: three digitized patterns from antique garments!
- The 1840s bodice is 34/36" bust - 31" waist (pattern HERE)
- The 1880s is 44" bust - 32" waist (pattern HERE)
- the 1920s dress is 47" bust - 48" waist (pattern HERE)
All three patterns are currently with testers for the next two weeks and after that I will be able to put them up on Etsy!
I have seven other antiques waiting for patterning (and two more on the way) - just have to decide what to work on next....
239 notes
·
View notes
I'm aliveeee! I'm not that good with social media, it seems, but I have some progress! I'll be printing my patterns again soon and can start working on my first Lolita piece since I first tried it in 2011 with an ELG McCall's pattern.
The plan isn't for anything too complicated, a simple jsk with lace trim and layered ribbons going perpendicular to the stripes. Now to measure, refit and reprint my bodice blocks!
I recently got two planners to use for projects, one technically for cosplay as a Google sheet, and a physical one they both have differing spaces for each step laid out. I love them so much already! And they were both under $10!
I also recently made a rice bag for warmth on bad pain days (aka almost all days recently), it works really well! I plan to use the fabric for another jsk, and am looking forward to that!
That's most it for me, have a great day everyone!
24 notes
·
View notes
April 10th is my 4 year anniversary of starting my YouTube channel.
I know I haven't been posting much there. It's been a crazy first half of the year.
I am moving and changing jobs. I plan to pick up again after the dust has settled.
I have qued a bunch of my videos over the next few days. Sorry for the spam, but I really want to get some traffic to my channel.
Please like follow and subscribe if you want to see more!
8 notes
·
View notes
My first project using the projector for my pattern! The Made For Mermaids Betty sleep romper, in a rayon spandex jersey from Cali Fabrics (still in stock as of June 30, 2023) that's a dream to work with for the price. (The lace is deep stash.)
19 notes
·
View notes
The two newest patterns that I have in testing right now, based on antique plus-size garments...
c. 1909 eleven-gore polka-dotted cotton day skirt
The size as-is is a 37”/94cm waist with 60”/152cm+ hips, and ungathered it’s a 46.5”/118cm waist. It was made for a very short person, so I’ve provided the original length (32”/81cm) as well as an extended version (40”/102cm) on the pattern for whatever you need. On Etsy here.
c. 1915-17 silk day dress with beading
This has a 60” (152cm) bust and 45.5” (116cm) waist and was made for a relatively tall person. On Etsy here.
Both are now up on Etsy!
51 notes
·
View notes
me making cosplay plans: yeah this is definitely doable for me at my current skill level and budget! can't wait!
me getting to the stage where I actually have to find sewing patterns in my size: ah
10 notes
·
View notes
getting into sewing for the forth or fifth time in my life, and suddenly learned that the patterns I bought four years ago (last time I wanted to get into sewing) are way smaller than I thought. one pattern said it went up to size 22 and when I looked at the measurements just now, the largest size wouldn't fit me, a size 14.
so then I looked through the rest of the pattersn I bought and it turns out that only one of them might actually fit me. I just feel so sad
Anyway if anyone has any plus-size pattern-maker recommendations, I would love to hear them!
2 notes
·
View notes
My taobao order arrived on my birthday!!
The picture isn't great at showing everything, due to not having enough room, but lookit all my fabrics! I got 21.5m of fabric that came out to 12lb/5kg (and expensive AF shipping!).
The purple cat and teacup/pot print is not on the selvage, which is extremely frustrating as it's only about 20in/50cm in length, and I am toll. So some splicing or tiers will be done so as to have a skirt that goes past mid thigh.
Everything is lovely and a nice texture, I'm excited AF to start sewing...except that I still need to do patterns, as well as finish my first two pieces that I've already gathered everything for, before I start buying even moar trimmings and lace.
12 notes
·
View notes
I decided to treat myself and make this top today instead of doll clothes. The pattern is a modified Mccalls pattern and honestly the neck and shoulders are a bit too big for my personal preference but hopefully it looks "fashionably oversized" and not just....too big you know?
13 notes
·
View notes