#vintage resistors

[luannudell]

ANOTHER HOLIDAY MARKET but with a difference!

ANOTHER HOLIDAY MARKET but with a difference!

    I love love love these! Colorful, lightweight, unique, and upcycled.     I know, I know…Yet another holidary shopping event. This one is the Holiday Markett at Sebastopol Center for the Arts this Saturday and Sunday, Dec. 3 & 4, from 10-4. What’s different about this one? I’m having a sale! I’ll be there my upcycled jewelry: Vintage buttons and resistors, transformed into colorful earrings…

[calochortus]

Colorful codes by Ed's EOS Via Flickr: Vintage resistors as seen through a vintage macro lens. Colors were used to signify numbers,. Canon FD 100mm f/4 macro, taken at f/22 with flash

[commodorez]

My replica Ohio Scientific OSI 400 Superboard now works!

This is a replica of a ~1976 single board kit computer, one of the earliest available for the 6502. It was cheap and relatively simple compared to many of the other options for sale at the time. The user had to supply a serial interface, or add other boards for I/O, but the base concept seems simple enough.

The glitchworks parts kit that I bought with it includes vintage style components, similar to what would have been available in the mid/late 1970s, to complete the look. However, my modern machine pin sockets are rather anachronistic. I've also chosen to build mine using a 6512 processor instead of a 6502, which has a nearly identical pinout to the 6501 and 6800. With just a single jumper change, this board can accommodate either processor, but will need special ROMs with 6800 software to be useful. It took a few days to figure out how to get it running, and here's what had to happen:

Attached era-appropriate termination resistors from glitch

Replaced 555 with an era-appropriate TO-99 version, also from glitch (this one is purely cosmetic)

Corrected my wiring mistakes when assembling the TX level shifter

Replaced 74LS04 used to buffer 6850 (damaged part wouldn't pull sufficiently during serial loopback tests)

Jumpered /CTS low on 6850

Lastly, the most frustrating one of all that took some assistance from glitch and tangentdelta on IRC, bypassing VMA output from the 6512. MOS datasheets that I've seen indicate that the 65XX family always outputs a high signal on what was formerly the VMA pin on the 6800, as it is tied to VCC internally. When checking this on my 6512, I saw continuity between VCC and VMA. However, for some reason I was seeing a low signal with occasional spikes which I could not explain. The solution was to disconnect the buffer input that feeds VMA beyond the 6512, and pull the signal high with a resistor. The result is that the logic chain allows the E input on pin 14 of the 6850 to go high when necessary, and output serial data.

Speaking of serial data, my T1960CT has been my terminal for these tests, as it's compact enough to fit on my workbench, has RS232 on board, provides a good keyboard, and can copy files over the network.

I have big plans for this thing. I want to add in all the era-appropriate boards to to get a more complete experience, similar to what I did with the Cactus. However while the Cactus was an exercise in 1970s homebrew, this is an exercise in 1970s kit computing.

[fuzzkaizer]

R2R Electric - vintage wah 075

"This is ... for @indyamped who supplied these absolutely stunning enclosures painted by @furyinkolor ... I build the pcb with all of my favorite stuff - 1960’s Mullard Tropical Fish, 1967 Sprague Vitamin Q, 1968/9 Siemens BC109C transistors, 1960-70’s Piher carbon film resistors and custom wound 500mh Halo Indictor."

cred: instagram.com/djlavalamp

[magicclam]

Hey everyone! 

Here are a few photos of the power supply section assembly process. My goal here was to use parts I had on hand, most of which are vintage, and therefor... large. 

First 2 pics show the rectifier tube socket (4-pin) and the regulator tube sockets. I soldered in some .05uf capacitors across the regulator tubes to prevent any noise from getting to other parts of the circuit. 

Next I added the filter choke (square grey and brown thing in the last pic) and a large dropping resistor which lowers the incoming high voltage to the correct level to drive the regulator tubes. 

I then pick up the B+ (high voltage) from the regulator tubes and feed it via the red wire you can see going to the solder tag at the bottom of the last pic to the plates of the audio tubes.

You can also see the twisted blue wires along the right-hand side of the last picture. These are the filament wires that power the pilot lamp as well as the audio output tubes. 

Stay tuned for the audio section assembly!

[deebeeus]

My #FenderFriday couch noodling rig is set up and ready to go for the weekend, with the 1961 #Fender #Musicmaster & 1961 #FenderConcert. The morning sun in this really showing off the original Oxford speakers in this shot! I am totally obsessed with this amplifier...thanks again to my #amp tech @marshalllespaulfan for the tune up, including tube testing that revealed a couple of the tubes were not performing optimally. He rectified (no amp pun intended😂) the tube situation, replaced a couple of awkward looking modern resistors with more vintage-appropriate ones, and the amp now sounds even better than it did before!

[librarychair]

Spend an hour every evening watching Mr. Carlson throw incomprehensible shade at the vintage leaky capacitors and resistors in the radio he's restoring, talking about putting them in a bag and saving them for reference. Mr Carlson what does this vintage capacitor baggie storage look like? Is someone going to be scraping it off the floor with a shovel in a decade?

[speakerhospital]

Vintage Amplifier Service for Restoration 

In the world of audio fans, vintage audio equipment has a certain charm that exceeds the boundaries of time. Vintage amplifiers have a unique appeal that lies in their classic aesthetics, warm sound, and the nostalgia they evoke. These amplifiers often require tender love to bring them back to their former glory. In this article, we explore the captivating world of vintage amplifiers and restoring them to their original splendor. 

The Need for Restoration 

The passage of time can take its toll on vintage amplifiers. Capacitors can dry out, tubes can weaken, and the overall performance may degrade. This is where restoration services become crucial. Vintage amplifier service for restoration is crucial due to the historical significance and unique qualities of these audio devices. Amplifiers from past decades often possess distinct features and craftsmanship no longer replicated in modern counterparts. Restoring these vintage amplifiers involves preserving their original character, ensuring they function optimally while maintaining their authentic sound quality. Additionally, older amplifiers may suffer from wear and tear over time, impacting their performance. Professional restoration services address issues like faulty wiring, worn-out components, or degraded circuitry, reviving these amplifiers to their former glory. 

Preserving the integrity of vintage amplifiers requires specialized expertise and a deep understanding of their intricate design. Restorations involve meticulous attention to detail, which includes sourcing original parts or using high-quality replacements to maintain the amplifier's authenticity. By entrusting these amplifiers to skilled professionals, owners can enjoy the nostalgia audio experience 

The Restoration Process 

Assessment 

 The first step in restoring a vintage amplifier is to assess its condition. An experienced technician will carefully examine the amplifier's components, looking for signs of wear, damage, or deterioration. They'll also take note of the original specifications to ensure the restoration process stays true to the amplifier's original design. 

Cleaning 

Vintage amplifiers are often covered in years of dust and grime. Cleaning is a vital part of the restoration process. The amplifier's exterior is carefully cleaned, and the interior is dusted and vacuumed to remove any accumulated debris. 

Component Replacement 

Many vintage amplifiers require the replacement of critical components like capacitors and resistors. Old capacitors, in particular, can leak or dry out over time, leading to poor performance. New, high-quality ingredients are carefully selected to match the amplifier's original specifications. 

Tube Testing and Replacement 

If the vintage amplifier is tube-based, the tubes are tested to ensure they function correctly. Tubes have a limited lifespan, and their performance can degrade over time. Faulty tubes are replaced with new, matched ones to maintain the amplifier's original sound. 

Power Supply Restoration 

The power supply is critical to any amplifier. It provides the necessary voltage and current to the amplifier's components. Restoring the power supply may involve replacing capacitors, diodes, and other details to ensure stable and clean power delivery. 

Resistor Checks and Adjustments 

Resistors can drift from their original values, affecting the amplifier's performance. Technicians check and adjust resistors as needed to maintain the amplifier's accuracy. 

Testing and Burn-In 

The restored amplifier is subjected to rigorous testing to ensure it functions flawlessly. It's often left to "burn in" for a period to stabilize its performance further. 

Cosmetic Restoration 

If necessary, the exterior of the amplifier is refurbished, including replacing missing knobs, switches, and faceplates. Wooden cabinets may be refinished to restore their original luster. 

Conclusion 

Vintage amplifiers have a particular unique sound that people love and enjoy. But with time, it can be damaged and does not work well. It is essential to fix them, which is done by skilled people. If you get professional help, the above process is helpful for you. Vintage amplifiers are prized for their unique sound and classic design. However, over time, they can start to show their age and require service or restoration. If you have a vintage amplifier that needs to be serviced or restored, it is essential to entrust it to a qualified professional. 

A qualified technician will have the knowledge and experience to diagnose and repair any problems with your amplifier correctly. They will also be able to source any necessary replacement parts. In addition, a qualified technician can perform various maintenance tasks, such as cleaning and lubricating the amplifier's components, to help ensure that it continues to perform at its best for many years to come. 

Disclaimer: This is generic Information & post; content about the services can be changed from time to time as per your requirements and contract. To get the latest and updated information, contact us today or visit our website. 

[babyawacs]

#securitythreat #imminentdangeris #soiswariswaris #guy_with_the_b one_in_hair #or #the_bumblebee_man #and #civillianeffectivity #toddlerl oot #imagine_good_german _dictator #sssexxxoilwibbler ?! #no #memberships #needed #to #mild # inallthis #nogain #nopermission #nochoosing #sanitised #how #germans #do #obvious #selfevident @judge .@judges @law @all @world @bbc_whys @france24 @haaretzcom @bild .@bild @phoenix_de @dw .@dwnews .@law @deutschland .@deutschland @hamburg @berlin .@berlin .@hamburg @muenchen @stu ttgart  #fxucktupnorthkorea #medivalfreeforall #russianmethod #2002 #on #alibis #someone #de cidedthis #when #constantstreamof #criminalgovernance #bbbbbbastardmonsters #criminalsecuritypo licy #system #sgerman #sgermany #whoelse #path molkebrei #ballsfill #but #into #mengele #impla nts #keypoint politik der ruhigen handother trickery was withalso withthe bassbox of the comp uter over electricity plugisit findable maybe with vintage screengrab techniquesreplaced grap hics cardthey hadfour crude resistors soldeed on a replaced computer hardwarei unscrambled rem oved resistors and it failed but heated extremely wiring onitreturned it got mymoneyback but i twas a replaced cardaround very calm hand daysmany intel trickeries technological and intel a ccess but victimised civillian#keypointbagatellised that they botched on an innocent started a s innocent harmingand now trick weasel securitythreat germanproof reframe their crimes and botc hkicksomeass if they try thegameis securitythreat

#securitythreat #imminentdangeris #soiswariswaris #guy_with_the_bone_in_hair #or #the_bumblebee_man #and #civillianeffectivity #toddlerloot #imagine_good_german _dictator #sssexxxoilwibbler ?! #no #memberships #needed #to #mild #inallthis #nogain #nopermission #nochoosing #sanitised #how #germans #do #obvious #selfevident @judge .@judges @law @all @world @bbc_whys @france24 @haaretzcom @bild…

[peacedtogether]

Check out this listing I just added to my Poshmark closet: EUC Kuhl Resistor Lite Chino Grey Pant Outdoor Hiking Camping Men's sz 34x32.

[teardownit]

DIY legendary BOSS DS-1 distortion and 3 its deep secrets

Many guitarists consider the DS-1 to be the worst-sounding guitar pedal. Could this 1978 Roland design be a failure and is now hopelessly outdated?

However, the idol of millions, Kurt Cobain, the author of world-favorite solos John Frusciante, and electric guitar classics Steve Vai and Joe Satriani either did not know that the BOSS DS-1 sounds terrible or managed to make it sound good.

We can get a good sound out of this classic pedal, too. For that, we'll put it, listen to it, and start by studying the circuitry.

Like most other guitar pedals, it is powered by a 9-volt battery. In the case of overdrive and distortion pedals, this battery not only gives you independence from the power supply but, oddly enough, also plays a part in shaping the sound.

Lovers of vintage pedals also prefer vintage, saline-type batteries. The fact is that the Leclanche manganese-zinc cell has not only less capacity and durability but also a higher internal resistance than the more modern alkaline cell.

The high internal resistance of a battery is usually a bad thing. But in the case of guitar amplification, the drawdown of the supply voltage due to the current consumption changes the character of the sound for the better.

After all, the task of a guitar circuit - pedals, amplifier, cabinet with speakers, as opposed to hi-fi equipment - is not to accurately reproduce the input signal but to distort it beautifully. Beautiful, i.e., softened, which is achieved by power sagging.

Mesa Boogie is the world leader in amplifying heavy, overdriven guitar styles. It equipped its flagship product, the Triple Rectifier head, with a rectifier switch: tube and solid-state.

And for the creators and buyers of the amplifier, it was so important that the word Rectifier became the central part of its name! The fact is that different rectifiers have different load characteristics, so they limit the output signal in different ways. And it is necessary to soften it. Otherwise, you will get unpleasant to the ear "sand".

And the miniature, all-semiconductor Spirit of Metal by Hughes & Kettner has not a rectifier switch but an entire SAGGING knob that adjusts to simulate the load response of the power supply.

This adjustment proved so crucial for designers and musicians that one of only four knobs on the front panel was dedicated to it. A second tone knob could have been made, such as an ultra-low resonance or an ultra-high frequency preset, like the Peavey 6505 and many other amplifiers.

Or the opposite, you could make a smooth adjustment from vintage mid boost to modern mid scoop.

In different amplifiers, pedals, and even electronic loads instead of a cabinet, this knob or switch may have different names: CONTOUR, VOICING, SCOOP, SHAPE.

Each adjustment mentioned is extremely useful for shaping the desired guitar sound. However, Mesa Boogie, Hughes & Kettner, KORG, Danelectro, and many other guitar equipment manufacturers have found the power drawdown of tube and transistor amplifiers to be just as effective, if not more so, in coloring the sound.

Knowing this feature of the guitar equipment, you can understand the purpose of the resistor R38 and the diode D3 in the left middle part of the circuit. The pedal is powered directly from the battery and from the power supply through a silicon diode, which draws about 0.7 volts, and a 470-ohm resistor, on which every milliampere of current consumption will cause a draw of as much as 0.47 volts.

And this diode is not a protection diode. The protection diode D1 is in the classic reverse circuit at the bottom left. If you connect the power supply or a 9-volt battery in the wrong polarity, the diode will short out the power and save the rest of the circuit.

A circuit of resistor R38 and diode D3 simulates the load characteristic of a vintage saline battery when powered by a 9-volt adapter. This is the first of the little-known technical secrets of the DS-1 pedal, which is hard to notice if you don't know what power sagging is.

The LED D10 on the right in the middle of the circuit is also connected via the 5.1-volt Zener diode D2. The Zener diode is needed so the LED does not glow when the pedal is powered by a dead battery.

So the LED light means that the distortion effect is working and the battery is working. If the LED does not shine, the battery needs to be replaced. The circuit, resembling a multivibrator on transistors Q4 and Q5, is a flip-flop that switches between two steady states every time the button is pressed.

With this flip-flop, a buffered bypass is performed: the JFET transistors Q7 and Q8 connect the output buffer input Q3 to the volume control output VR2 or the input buffer output Q1. And Q6 enables or disables the buffered guitar signal to the preamplifier Q2.

Note that if there is no power from the adapter or battery, the guitar signal from the pedal's input will not get to the output. This is because it is a buffered bypass, not a true bypass.

Also note that if no external power plug is connected, the battery power is consumed as long as the input jack is plugged in, regardless of whether the distortion effect is engaged or isn`t.

You can find the same or almost the same in many other pedals. The most common is the overdrive circuit on the operational amplifier and silicon diodes. But the Q2 preamplifier is the second secret of the circuit.

It is the usual NPN transistor-based amplifier stage with a common emitter. But the catch is that this stage has a little headroom designed for classical Fender single pickups, P-90, and PAF humbuckers.

It's with these pickups that the DS-1 sounds just fine. But if you connect a guitar with more advanced pickups: hot rod, super distortion, active EMG, the pre-amp stage Q2 will be overloaded with the input signal, and we will hear an ugly, "transistor", "sandy" overdrive, even if we have the most boutique guitar cabinet and the finest tube amplifier.

And now, the third secret of the good old pedal. We used to call the pedal platforms the tube powerhouses with crystal clear sound and large headroom, such as Fender, Tone King, and Hiwatt.

But the concept of pedal platforms didn't exist in the 1970s! And pedals were designed not as full-fledged amp-in-a-box pre-amps but as an additional warm-up for an overdriven amp, such as the Marshall Plexi.

When plugged into the crystal-clear, "glass" channel of a Fender-like amplifier or into the line input of a mixing console, audio interface, or hi-fi amplifier, the BOSS DS-1 will sound no good.

But an overdriven channel of some Marshall, or as I have, Orange Micro Terror, will reveal all the beauty of the classic sound of this beautiful pedal. If you get a guitar with the right pickups. In this video, with examples of sound and the process of assembling my pedal, I'm playing a semi-hollow Harley-Benton TE-90QM with sound pickups P90, which I adore. The Two notes Torpedo Captor X electronic load handles the guitar cabinet emulation.

The pedal is assembled from the DS-1 with a 1590 B-style box from LANDTONE, aka TTONE. Under the MOEN effect lab brand, they also sell pre-assembled pedals.

Interestingly, the company makes two different types of kits marked DS-1. The one I assembled is a BOSS clone. It has round variable resistors, black jack sockets with a red stripe, and three transistors in the kit because it uses true bypass.

There is another set from the same manufacturer, DISTORTION-1 or NO-1, without transistors, with two 5 mm LEDs, square potentiometers and black jack sockets without red stripe. I also ordered and will assemble it, but it will be a clone not of BOSS but another pedal.

The color of the pedal body, the images, and the inscriptions on it can be different in different kit variants. And then there is the DS-2, "Dragon Roar" without LEDs and transistors. And I will build it one day, too, because I like guitar electronics and quality DIY kits.

[greentreeelectronics]

It’s a tough job to provide the service of obsolete electronic components distributor, especially in places where the components are not easy to find. In places where there are industrial areas, it’s become easy to set links and create a chain of suppliers of obsolete electronic components. These components are of a vast variety because they inherit several gadget parts.

Let’s see what the usually searched electronic components are: -

• Resistors: Resisting the passage of electricity is what they do.

• Capacitors: Its principal purpose is to store electricity for use in other circuits when it is needed.

• Inductors: These devices store magnetic energy as energy.

• Potentiometers: The fan's regulator is the best example of a potentiometer, and you may purchase them from an obsolete components supplier.

• Transformer: It is in charge of transferring energy from one circuit to another while changing the voltage as desired.

• Diodes: This component displays how electricity moves from the anode to the cathode.

• Integrated circuits: They are a condensed version of larger circuits and are available through a distributor of ICs.

In addition to being unable to afford them, customers who opt to buy these components rather than the newest and most advanced electronic devices are frequently quite protective of their vintage electronic devices. To ensure that the clients receive obsolete electrical components that are in working order, the suppliers of these components have developed an electronic components testing service.

[fuzzkaizer]

Honey - The Special Fuzz 2

"... is a tribute to the vintage 1968 Fuzz Face silicon circuit featuring NOS 60's and 70's Telefunken/Siemens BC109 transistors, carbon composition resistors and audio grade capacitors. ... nails the original sound of the late 60's BC109 fuzz circuit."

cred: reverb.com/Guitar Pedals For You

[carmenhearn]

Tuning In to the Past: A Guide to Vintage Radios

Vintage radios have been a popular collector’s item for many years, and with good reason. These radios are not only fascinating pieces of technology, but they also represent an important part of our cultural and social history. From the early days of radio broadcasting to the Golden Age of Radio, vintage radios have played a significant role in shaping the way we communicate and entertain ourselves. This guide will provide you with an overview of vintage radios and help you navigate the world of collecting, restoring, and displaying these fascinating pieces of history. Radio Heads vintage radio reading.

Understanding Vintage Radios

Vintage radios come in many different shapes and sizes, from the small tabletop radios of the 1920s and 1930s to the larger console models of the 1950s and 1960s. There are also many different types of vintage radios, including battery-operated portable radios, AC/DC models, and the iconic cathedral-style radios. Despite their differences, vintage radios all share a few key characteristics. For one, they were typically manufactured with high-quality materials, such as solid wood cabinets and metal components. Additionally, many vintage radios feature unique and beautiful designs that are still admired today.

The historical significance of vintage radios cannot be overstated. Before the advent of television and the internet, radio was the primary form of entertainment and information dissemination. In the 1920s and 1930s, radio broadcasting became increasingly popular and was used to broadcast everything from music and news to sports and drama. The Golden Age of Radio, which lasted from the 1930s to the 1950s, saw the rise of radio dramas and comedies, which were wildly popular and often listened to by millions of people. During this time, radios were essential household items, and many people listened to their favorite programs every night.

Cleaning and Restoring Vintage Radios

If you are interested in collecting vintage radios, it is important to know how to clean and restore them. Cleaning the exterior of a vintage radio is relatively simple, and can typically be done using a soft cloth and a gentle cleaner. It is important to avoid using harsh chemicals or abrasive materials, as these can damage the delicate finish of the radio.

Restoring the electronic components of a vintage radio can be a bit more complicated, but is also a rewarding process. Before you begin, make sure that you have all of the necessary tools and parts, including a soldering iron, capacitors, resistors, and a voltmeter. If you are not comfortable working with electronics, it is best to seek the help of a professional.

When restoring a vintage radio, it is important to take your time and be patient. Many vintage radios have delicate components that can be easily damaged, so it is important to work carefully and methodically. Additionally, vintage radios often use old and outdated technology, which can be difficult to repair or replace. However, with the right tools and knowledge, most vintage radios can be restored to their original condition.

Finding Vintage Radios

Finding vintage radios can be a bit of a challenge, but it is also a lot of fun. One of the best places to start your search is at flea markets, garage sales, and estate sales. You can also look for vintage radios online, on sites such as eBay, Craigslist, and Facebook Marketplace. When shopping for vintage radios, it is important to do your research and have a good understanding of what you are looking for. This will help you avoid buying a radio that is not authentic or has been restored using questionable methods.

Determining the value of a vintage radio is another important consideration. While some vintage radios can be quite valuable, others may only be worth a few dollars. The value of a vintage 

radio is determined by several factors, including its age, rarity, condition, and historical significance. In general, vintage radios that are in good condition and have a unique or interesting design will be more valuable than those that are in poor condition or have a more common design. Additionally, vintage radios that were manufactured by well-known brands, such as Philco, RCA, and Zenith, will typically be more valuable than those that were manufactured by lesser-known brands.

Displaying Vintage Radios

Once you have acquired a vintage radio, it is important to know how to properly store and display it. For optimal preservation, vintage radios should be stored in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight and moisture. Additionally, it is important to handle vintage radios with care, as they are delicate and can easily be damaged.

Displaying vintage radios in a collection can be a fun and interesting way to show off your collection. If you have a large collection, you may want to consider displaying your radios on shelves or in a display case. If you have only a few radios, you can display them on a tabletop or on a bookshelf. Regardless of how you display your vintage radios, it is important to make sure that they are protected from dust and other potential damage.

Incorporating vintage radios into your home decor is another creative way to showcase your collection. For example, you can place a vintage radio on a bookshelf or coffee table, or even use it as a centerpiece for a room. This not only allows you to enjoy your collection, but it also adds a touch of vintage charm to your home.

Conclusion

Vintage radios are fascinating pieces of technology and cultural history, and collecting and restoring them can be a fun and rewarding hobby. Whether you are a seasoned collector or just starting out, this guide has provided you with an overview of vintage radios and some helpful tips on how to navigate the world of collecting, restoring, and displaying these amazing pieces of history. 

[salomeswonderfuljourney]

Histoires recueillies pendant les Test Days :

I have a super cool vintage toaster. Basic electronics : just pressing down & up for on/off and a variable timer. It is chromed and black plastic, super elegant but if you touch the metal casing it is hot after use : careful ! Once some bread fell in the bottom and started burning with flames and shit. I got scared, I blew the flame and unplugged it. Now the timer doesn’t work, and heat resistors work only on one side. If I feel motivated, I turn/flip the bread to toast both sides. But I essentially feel and don’t toast it most of the time anymore.

My Macbook Pro doesn’t go into hibernate mode. It gets really hot if I put it in my bag like that. In the summer, I’m really worried that it will damage itself if it does this. So now I always completely turn it off. Sometimes I watch movies in bed and I have it like this with the lid turned down, thinking it will heat me a little. I can’t feel it though. Sometimes I worry about it in my backpack and check if it’s warm or not.

On avait acheté avec des ami·e·x·s un contrôleur avec lequel on mixait en soirée. Au début on jouait surtout à des petits évènements entre potes avec à chaque fois un peu de boisson qui coulait dessus. À la longue, il a commencé à glitched en changeant par exemple d’un coup le tempo ou en changeant de track sans qu’on lui demande. Comme on l’utilisait pas pour des évènements « sérieux » mais que pour des soirées entre nous, on aimait bien ce côté aléatoire qui faisait plus rire que casser l’ambiance au point d’en jouer. Ça décontractait bien l’ambiance

Quand j’avais 12 ans, à Noël j’ai reçu un poste pour écouter de la musique. Mais lorsque j’écoutais ce fameux CD de Shy’m, le poste laguait et buggait sur une micro partie de la musique mais ça n’avait pas d’importance pour moi car je trouvais ça juste trop stylé d’avoir mon propre poste de musique. Plus tard je m’en suis séparée pour acheter un Ipod mais ça n’a jamais été à cause du bug de ce magnifique poste dont j’étais si fière.

Écouteurs Bluetooth qui activent un Noise cancelling quand les portes du train sont en train de se fermer : Bip, Bip, Bip. Cela crée une sensation d’oreille bouchée qui fait un peu perdre l’équilibre. Je les utilise toujours et j’ai appris à maîtriser ce « bug ». Il me surprend moins maintenant. Au début j’enlevais mes écouteurs quand ça se produisait. Ça faisait une sensation d’oreille bouchée mais avec ce BIP! très fort.

[catwint]

Dockmate high profile fender

#Dockmate high profile fender free#

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#Dockmate high profile fender free#

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