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sfarticles · 2 years

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A slice of the pie: October is National Pizza Month

New Haven Pizza (recipe at https://bit.ly/3El23tlNew Haven style pizza generally does not include a layer of melted mozzarella on top, allowing the tomato sauce to shine.(Photo courtesy of Cider Mill Press Book Publishers, LLC)

Check out my latest column

https://www.timesherald.com/2022/10/06/a-slice-of-the-pie-october-is-national-pizza-month/

Need a reason to indulge in carbs? It’s National Pizza Month. Pizza deserves a celebration, being the most Instagrammed food worldwide, according to a study commissioned by Chef Alessio Mecozzi. You might have thought beautifully decorated cupcakes or sushi (#2) would have reigned supreme on Instagram. What is interesting is that six percent of the photos of pizza were posted by New York City pizza aficionados and only two percent were posted by Instagrammers in Italy.

Pizza is big business, having an international trade show, “Pizza Expo” and a trade magazine “Pizza Today.” We have Gerry Durnell (1942-2011), the founder of the magazine and trade show, to thank for the month’s celebration. Why October? It was in October of 1984 when the magazine debuted. Then, in 1987 the U.S. Congress officially designated October as National Pizza Month. The current issue pays homage to National Pizza Month – where it says, “The Northeast has the highest concentration of pizzerias and Italian restaurants in the U.S.”

How do you score on your pizza knowledge? (answers are below)

1. What is the most most popular pizza topping in the United States?

A. Mushrooms

B. Onions

C. Pepperoni

D. Sausage

2. What is the oldest, continuously-operated pizzeria in the United States?

A. Tacconelli’s Pizzeria (located in Philadelphia,, PA)

B. Papa’s Tomato Pies (located in Trenton, NJ)

C. Patsy’s Pizzeria (New York, NY)

D. Frank Pepe Pizzeria Napolitana (located in New Haven, CT)

3. Which of the following condiments is common for the Japanese to put on their pizza?

A. Ketchup

B. Mayonnaise

C. Mustard

D. Sesame seed oil

4. Among the ingredient on a classic Hawaiian pizza are ham, and pineapple. Where was this style of pizza invented?

A. Canada

B. Chicago

C. Hawaii

D. New York

5. What are the five basic ingredients in pizza dough?

A. Flour, milk, yeast, vinegar, oil

B. Flour, milk, yeast, sugar, oil

C. Flour water yeast, baking soda, butter

D. Flour, water yeast sugar, oil

6. The Museum of Pizza Culture is in

A. Miami, FL

B. New York City

C. New Haven, CT

D. Philadelphia, PA

7. What pizza-making technique has it’s a professional-level competition?

A. Dough-spinning

B. Ingredient-placing

C. Sauce-spreading

D. Taste-testing

8. A pizza topping first used by Frank Pepe Pizzeria Napoletana in New Haven, CT and very poplar is

A. Lobster

B. Clams

C. Calamari

D. oysters

Answers to questions

1. C 2. B 3. B 4. A 5. D 6. D 7. A 8. B

I hope you didn’t get number 6 wrong!

New Haven, CT has been my home for almost four decades, and one thing that has not changed is the question I am often asked by visitors…What is the best place for pizza in New Haven, Sally’s or Pepe’s. Both are legendary pizzerias, well-known throughout the U.S. and beyond. Of course, when I moved to New Haven it was a must to wait on the long lines to get a table at these famous establishments. Now, when I pass by their restaurants on historic Wooster Street in New Haven’s Little Italy, I say to myself they must be tourists or recently moved to the area. Over the years, I have come to find the pies at Modern and BAR just as good minus the long lines. Of course, that is only my opinion. Truth be told, as a native New Yorker, I still think pizza is best in “the city.”

I can bet in your area, there is the debate as to what pizza is the best around town. Please let me know, so when I next visit Greater Philadelphia, I’ll know where to go for the best pizza.

Of course, each of us have a favorite style…Neapolitan, Chicago, New York Style, Sicilian, Greek, California, Detroit, St. Louis, New Haven-style apizza (pronounced ah-beets by many locals)

Whatever the type of crust (thin or thick) or style of pizza, the sky is the limit as to the ingredients to make pizza. The artisan pies created today fit the bill for many, but if you are like me, I am a traditionalist when it comes to pizza. I will leave the sriracha sauce, apples and goat cheese, blue cheese and pumpkin to dishes other than pizza. I must admit though, the mashed potato and bacon pizza served at BAR in New Haven is an exception!

If you have joined or thinking about joining the home pizza making craze check out “Pizza: The Ultimate Cookbook,” by Barbara Caracciolo (2020 Cider Mill Press,$35) . From backyard wood-fired pizza ovens to electric portable pizza ovens for the kitchen to equipment to make crispy pies in your traditional oven, the book will become your go-to for recipes (there are more than 300!) that will capture your taste buds and provide inspiration. Before getting to the recipes, the author writes about the history of pizza and in-depth discussions about the various styles of pizza. I learned what the difference is between New Haven-style and New York-style pizza. She writes, “The biggest difference when compared to New York pizza is the omission of low-moisture mozzarella cheese. The best New Haven pizzas let the sauce shine, so much in fact they are often called tomato pie. In New Haven, mozzarella is considered a topping rather than a key component.”

The Perfect Pie chapter gives details about ingredients and equipment. The recipes for doughs (no-knead as well) for both pizza and focaccia are plentiful. The photos bring the slices to life. Now, let’s get rolling the dough with these recipes from the book. For these recipes, I’ve shared the authors’ Quick Pizza Dough recipe. There are many others to choose from. For the New Haven pie go to https://bit.ly/3El23tl

Eggs & Bacon Pizza Cold leftover pizza is always a great breakfast option, but this pie does it one better. (Photo courtesy of Cider Mill Press Book Publishers, LLC)

Pizza with Eggs & Bacon

Yield: 1 Pizza / Active Time: 15 Minutes / Total Time: 45 Minutes

The headnote says, “Cold leftover pizza is always a great breakfast option, but this pie does it one better.”

Semolina flour, as needed

1 ball pizza dough

3 ½ ounces (100 grams) low-moisture mozzarella cheese, shredded

2.4 ounces. (70 grams) bacon, cooked and chopped

2 eggs

Salt and pepper, to taste

Olive oil, as needed

Preheat the oven to the maximum temperature and place a baking stone or steel on the middle rack as it warms. Dust a work surface with the semolina flour, place the dough on the surface, and gently stretch it into a round. For more detailed instructions on properly stretching a ball of pizza dough see page 73 in the book. Cover the dough with the mozzarella and top with the bacon. Crack the eggs open onto the center of the pizza, season with salt and pepper, and drizzle olive oil over the top.

Using a peel or a flat baking sheet, transfer the pizza to the heated baking implement in the oven. Bake for about 15 minutes, until the crust is golden brown and starting to char. Remove and let cool slightly before slicing and serving.

Avocado, Tomato & Feta Pizza (Photo courtesy of Cider Mill Press Book Publishers, LLC)

Avocado, Tomato & Feta Pizza

Yield: 1 Pizza / Active Time: 15 Minutes / Total Time: 45 Minutes

Semolina flour, as needed

1 ball pizza dough

1.4 ounces (40 grams) low-moisture mozzarella cheese, shredded

Olive oil, to taste

Flesh of ½ avocado, mashed

½ tomato, diced

1 ¾ ounces (50 grams) feta cheese, crumbled

Salt and pepper, to taste

This is not a dessert pizza. The strawberry puree stands in for tomato sauce, pairing surprisingly well with the cheese and making for a sweet, sour, and savory flavor experience.(Photo courtesy of Cider Mill Press Book Publishers, LLC)

Mixed Berry Pizza

Yield: 1 Pizza / Active Time: 15 Minutes / Total Time: 45 Minutes

The headnote says, “This is not a dessert pizza. The strawberry puree stands in for tomato sauce, pairing surprisingly well with the cheese and making for a sweet, sour, and savory flavor experience.”

1 ¾ ounces (50 grams) strawberries

Semolina flour, as needed

1 ball pizza dough

2.1 ounces (60 grams) low-moisture mozzarella cheese, shredded

1 ounce (30 grams) raspberries

1 ounce (30 grams) blackberries

1 ounce (30 grams) blueberries

Fresh basil leaves, for garnish

Preheat the oven to the maximum temperature and place a baking stone or steel on the middle rack as it warms. Place the strawberries in a blender and blitz until smooth. Strain the puree to remove the seeds and set aside.

Dust a work surface with the semolina flour, place the dough on the surface, and gently stretch it into a round. Cover the dough with the strawberry puree and top with the mozzarella, raspberries, blackberries, and blueberries.

Quick Pizza Dough

3 1/3 teaspoons 9.6 grams) active dry yeast OR 2 ½ teaspoons (8 grams) instant yeast

15 ½ ounces (440 grams) water

23.2 ounces (660 grams) bread flour OR “00” flour, plus more as needed

1 tablespoon (17 grams) table salt

Olive oil, as needed

If using active dry yeast, warm 3 ½ tablespoons (1 ¾ ounces/ 50 grams) of the water until it is about 105 degrees. Add the water and yeast to a bowl and gently stir. Let sit for 5 to 10 minutes. Instant yeast does not need to be proofed.

In a large bowl, combine the flour, yeast, and water and work the mixture until it just holds together.

If kneading by hand, transfer dough to a flour dusted surface. Work it until it is smooth and elastic. (The book gives instructions on kneading and mixing on page 71).

Add salt and knead until dough is developed, elastic, and extensible, about 5 minutes. Form dough into a ball and place in a lightly greased airtight container that is at least three times bigger. Let rest in a naturally warm spot (in the oven with light on is a good option) until it has doubled in size, about 1 hour.

Transfer dough to a floured work surface, divide it into four pieces, and shape into balls. Place the rounds in a greased baking dish with high edges, leaving enough space between rounds so that they won’t touch when fully risen. Cover with greased plastic wrap and let rest for 40 minutes to an hour before using to make pizza. Makes 4 balls of dough.

Recipes and photos courtesy of

Stephen Fries, is a newly retired professor and coordinator of the Hospitality Management Programs at Gateway Community College, in New Haven, CT. He has been a food and culinary travel columnist for the past 14 years and is co-founder of and host of “Worth Tasting,” a culinary walking tour of downtown New Haven, CT. He is a board member of the International Association of Culinary Professionals. [email protected] For more, go to stephenfries.com.

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sfrecipes · 2 years

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NEW HAVEN TOMATO PIE

Yield: 1 Pizza / Active Time: 15 Minutes / Total Time: 30 Minutes

The headnote says, “In New Haven, pizza generally does not include a layer of melted mozzarella on top, allowing the tomato sauce to shine, completed by a good sprinkle of grated pecorino cheese and a generous drizzle of quality olive oil. When the mozzarella is present, it comes in smaller amounts than most American pies, functioning as a topping itself rather than a base for other toppings.”

INGREDIENTS:

Semolina flour, as needed

1 ball 24-Hour Pizza Dough with 72 Percent Hydration (recipe below)

5.3 oz. (150 grams) Raw Pizza Sauce (recipe below)

1 oz. (30 grams) pecorino cheese, grated

1.75 oz. ( 50 grams) fresh mozzarella cheese, drained and cut into short strips (optional)

Fresh basil leaves, to taste (optional)

Olive oil, to taste

1. Place a baking stone or steel on the middle rack of the oven and preheat the oven to the maximum temperature. Dust a work surface with the semolina flour, place the dough on the surface, and gently stretch it into a round. For more detailed instructions on properly stretching a ball of pizza dough see page 73. Cover the dough with the sauce, top with the pecorino, and drizzle olive oil over the pizza. If desired, top with mozzarella and basil leaves.

2. Using a peel or a flat baking sheet, transfer the pizza to the heated baking implement in the oven. Bake for about 10 minutes, until the crust is golden brown and starting to char. Remove and let cool slightly before slicing and serving.

24 hour pizza dough with 72 percent hydration

The headnote says, “This dough has the highest water-to-flour ratio in this book. The mass will be slightly sticky in the initial stages but not as liquid as more hydrated doughs (not recommended for pizza) This level of hydration is good for a pizza with a thick crust.”

1 1/4 teaspoons (3.6 grams) active dry yeast OR 1 teaspoon (3 grams) instant yeast

16.2 ounces (460 grams) water

22.6 ounces (640 grams) bread flour OR “00″ flour, plus more as needed

1 tablespoon (17 grams) table salt

olive oil, as needed

If using active dry yeast, warm 3 1/2 tablespoons ( 1 3/4 ounces/ 50 grams) of the water until it is about 105 degrees. Add the water and the yeast to a bowl and gently stir. Let sit for 5 to 10 minutes. Instant yeast does not need to be proofed.

In a large bowl, combine flour, yeast, and water. Work the mixture until it just holds together. If kneading by hand, transfer the dough to a flour-dusted surface. Work it until it is smooth and elastic. (For further instructions on kneading and mixing see page 71 in book)

Add salt and knead until dough is developed, elastic and extensible, about 5 minutes. Form dough into a ball, transfer to an airtight container, and let rest at room temperature until it has doubled in size, 3 to 4 hours. The time for this first fermentation can be reduced if you place the dough in a naturally warm spot. In the oven with the light on is a good option if you’re going to go this route.

Divide dough into four pieces and shape them into tight rounds. I is important to create tension in the outer layer of the dough (page 109 goes into more depth) .

Place rounds in greased baking dish with high edges, leaving enough space between rounds that they won’t touch when fully risen. Cover with greased plastic wrap and refrigerate for a minimum of 20 hours. Let sit at room temperature for 1 to 2 hours before making pizza.

Raw Pizza Sauce

The headnote says, “The most authentic Neapolitan and Italian sauce for pizza simply consists of crushed peeled whole tomatoes--preferably canned--salt, and olive oil. Oregano is sometimes added to the mix, but not always. What truly matters is the quality of the tomatoes. Ideally, unflavored canned San Marzano tomatoes, or tomatoes of similar quality, will be used. The author recommends avoiding already salted and flavored tomatoes, as this provides you with more control and versatility.”

14 ounces (400 grams) peeled whole canned tomatoes, with their juice

1 1/2 tablespoons (20 grams) olive oil

salt to taste

dried oregano, to taste (optional)

Crush tomatoes by hand, with a fork, or with a food processor and place them in a bowl. If you use a food processor, make sure to not over-process the tomatoes; you want them to have a chunky texture.

Add olivv oil, stir until it has been emulsified, and season with salt. If your chosen pizza topping agrees with it, feel free to stir in some oregano as well. Store at room temperature if making pizza within 2 hours, or refrigerate and then return to room temperature before using.

Recipes and photos courtesy of Cider Mill Press Book Publishers, LLC

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