Queen Camilla's Consort Crown
It has been announced that Queen Camilla will wear Queen Mary's Crown for the coronation on May 6th. I was expecting her to wear Queen Elizabeth, the Queen Mother's Crown so this was a surprise.
The crown was made by Garrard in 1911 using brilliant and rose cut diamonds set in silver and gold. You can see in the picture at the top that the three largest diamonds have been replaced with rock crystal/quartz replicas. The original diamonds were removed so that they could be worn in other jewelry which is normal for British consort crowns.
For Queen Camilla the Cullinan III and IV are being put back in the crown but not the Koh-i-Noor. I let you read about the Koh-i-Noor diamond on your own. I think this is a very smart choice and it's not the first time the center of this crown has been set with another diamond.
For the coronation of King George VI in 1937, Queen Mary wore the the crown without the arches or the cap and with the Cullinan V in the center since the Koh-i-Noor was being used in Queen Elizabeth's crown. These are the clearest photos I could find but you can see that the whole brooch is used because the diamond does not take up the full space of the center cross and there are smaller diamonds on the sides. I'm not sure which stone she is wearing in the center of the band since she's wearing the Cullinan IV as a brooch. Edit: @gloriouszipperskeletonshoe has the answer. They temporarily put one of the diamonds from Queen Victoria's Regal Circlet in the band. The Regal Circlet was being dismantled anyway so the diamonds could be used in Queen Elizabeth's crown.
The eight arches are detachable and only four of them will be used this time. I'm guessing it's so that the crown is more in line with St. Edward's Crown and the Imperial State Crown which both only have four. All of the changes being made are options already available for the crown, it just hasn't been worn in this exact configuration before.
Above are the crowns of Queen Alexandra, Queen Elizabeth, and Queen Mary. The only usable options are Elizabeth's and Mary's because all previous consort crowns (Mary of Modena, Adelaide, and Alexandra) have had all of the gemstones removed and some of them have been reset with rock crystal or glass stones. The last four queens consort have had new crowns made for them and this is the first time a consort crown has been reused since 1727. The Crown Jewels by Anna Keay is the best book on the subject if you are interested.
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The Consort Crown & Coronation Jewels
Queen Camilla has a lot of options for the jewelry that she will wear to her husband's coronation on May 6th. My predictions are based on the jewelry worn by Queen Alexandra, Queen Mary, and Queen Elizabeth, the Queen Mother, and are pretty safe choices. Other than a crown and the ring all of this jewelry is optional and Queen Camilla may decide not to wear all of it or to wear different pieces altogether.
The jewels used in the coronation are some of the most controversial ones the British Royal Family possess. I won't get into their history or what should be done with them here because plenty of others have already covered it. They have already decided to not use the Koh-i-Noor diamond but there are a few others that go along with it that are not as well know that I think should also be set aside this time around.
Queen Mary's Crown
The last few consorts have had new crowns made for them but Queen Camilla has decided to reuse Queen Mary's Consort Crown. It was made in 1911 by Garrard using over two thousand diamonds set in silver and gold. Instead of the Koh-i-Noor diamond, Queen Camilla is using the Cullinan V diamond in the center of the crown like Queen Mary did for her son's coronation in 1937. She is also going to use only four of the eight arches bringing it more in line with the other crowns used in the ceremony. All of the alterations were already possible, they just haven't been used in this exact configuration before.
The Coronation Earrings
The focus is usually on the Koh-I-Noor diamond itself but going with it are the Coronation Earrings. Queen Victoria had them made using the pear shaped diamonds from the sides of the Koh-I-Noor armlet in 1858. It's sometimes a bit confusing because Queen Victoria did not wear them to her coronation but they got the name Queen Victoria's Coronation Earrings later after being worn by Queen Elizabeth and Queen Elizabeth II at their coronations. Hugh Roberts wrote that Queen Mary also wore them for her husband's coronation but in the pictures it looks like she is wearing her Diamond Collet Earrings made from extra diamonds taken from the Coronation Necklace not these. She could have worn different earrings for the pictures or just worn the tops of the earrings. I think Queen Mary's Diamond Collet Earrings are the better choice but another possibility is that Queen Camilla will wear an entirely different pair of earrings. She doesn't have pierced ears so it may be decided not to alter such old earrings.
The Coronation Necklace
The necklace was made in 1858 by Garrard using diamonds taken from unused garter badges and a sword hilt and can be worn with the Lahore Diamond as a pendant. Like the Coronation Earrings, Queen Victoria didn't actually wear this necklace at her coronation but it has been worn at every one since. Queen Mary and Queen Elizabeth II used the pendant but Queen Alexandra and Queen Elizabeth, the Queen Mother, did not. I think it's best to not use the Lahore Diamond this time because it’s from the same collection of jewels as the Koh-i-Noor. Queen Elizabeth II regularly wore the Coronation Earrings and the Coronation Necklace with the Lahore Diamond without anyone saying anything or connecting them with the Koh-i-Noor but if there is a chance to avoid controversy they should take it.
Queen Elizabeth's Coronation Necklace
In addition to the Coronation Necklace I would like Queen Camilla to wear Queen Elizabeth's Coronation Necklace. It was a gift from King George VI to his wife for their coronation in 1937 and was worn by her along with the main coronation necklace. Queen Camilla has already worn this necklace and had is shortened from 40 to 31 diamonds. It may need to be lengthened a bit again in order to lay right with the other necklace.
The Buckle Bracelets
Queen Mary had these bracelets made for the 1911 coronation using two diamond and enamel buckles that belonged to King William IV attached to four rows of diamonds each. According to The Queen's Jewels by Leslie Field, one buckle features the cypher of King William IV and the other of Queen Adelaide. Queen Mary also wore them for a few portraits and Queen Elizabeth wore them for her husband's coronation in 1937 but I haven't been able to find any pictures of them being worn since then.
The Diamond Cockade Brooch
This brooch has been worn by the last three Queen Consorts. Queen Alexandra and Queen Mary both wore the full brooch but Mary turned the side sections up so it was V shaped. Queen Elizabeth only wore the central section and I think that's probably how it will be worn by Queen Camilla since the whole piece is pretty massive.
The Consort Ring
This ruby and diamond ring was made for Queen Adelaide to wear to her husband's coronation in 1831 and has been worn by every Queen Consort since. The ring is actually part of the ceremony and will be placed by the Archbishop of Canterbury on Queen Camilla's right hand.
I can’t wait to see what jewels Queen Camilla will wear! What are your predictions?
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In her “accession” photographs, shot in 1952 by Dorothy Wilding, HM Queen Elizabeth II is pictured with the Girls of Great Britain and Ireland Tiara upon her head – a jewel that you might recognize because Her Majesty is seen wearing it on the front of every Bank of England banknote.
Originally the property of Queen Mary, Duchess of York, Princess of Wales and finally Queen Consort of King George V, the Girls of Great Britain and Ireland Tiara was crafted by Garrard in 1893 to be given as a wedding present from the Girls of Great Britain and Ireland committee.
Designed to be transformable, allowing it to be worn as either a necklace or coronet, over the years, Queen Mary requested that Garrard add diamonds, remove pearls, and separate the bandeau from the base so that she could wear it as a headband.
In 1947, Queen Mary gave the tiara to Princess Elizabeth as a wedding present. In 1969, now Queen Elizabeth II, she asked for the bandeau and tiara to be reunited, as it remains today.
Worn frequently by Her Late Majesty The Queen, the Girls of Great Britain and Ireland Tiara is an ongoing source of inspiration for Garrard’s designers, with the repeated pattern of diamonds encircling the base reflected in the round and geometric Windsor motif, which is a signature of the Albemarle and Fanfare jewellery collections.
The Queen’s love of brooches is legendary, and in Bob Thomas’ intimate portrait of Her Majesty at the Royal Windsor Horse Show, she is pictured wearing the Cullinan V Heart Brooch, one of several important brooches commissioned from Garrard by the Royal Family.
Showcasing the 18.80-carat heart shape Cullinan V diamond, the fifth-largest gem to be cut from the 3,106-carat Cullinan Diamond – the largest gem-quality rough diamond ever discovered – the diamond was given to Queen Mary in 1911 as a gift from the South African government.
It was originally worn by Queen Mary as part of the suite of jewellery made by Garrard for her to wear at the Delhi Durbar in 1911.
When Queen Mary died in 1953, the Cullinan V Brooch was passed to her granddaughter, Her Late Majesty Queen Elizabeth II, who was photographed wearing it throughout her reign.
The Sapphire and Diamond cluster ring worn by Catherine, Princess of Wales, formerly Duchess of Cambridge, in the 2013 portrait by her father Michael Middleton is among Garrard’s best-known creations.
Set with a magnificent 12-carat oval Ceylon sapphire, encircled by a cluster of diamonds set in 18 carat white gold, the ring was personally chosen by Lady Diana Spencer for her engagement to Prince Charles.
It became instantly famous after it was prominently showcased in an engagement shoot in 1981 that took place in the grounds of Buckingham Palace.
A new chapter in the story of Princess Diana’s engagement ring was written when, in 2010, William, Prince of Wales, formerly Duke of Cambridge, chose to propose to Catherine Middleton with the same engagement ring his father had given to Diana.
As this royal jewel, passed down through generations, takes on new meaning and sentiment upon Princess of Wales’ hand, we continue to honour this history-defining design in the 1735 collection.
Garrard’s iconic cluster setting also features prominently in the Jewelled Vault, where each one-of-a-kind creation is designed around an exceptional central stone.
A page from the scrapbook of Princess Victoria of Wales, daughter of King Edward VII and Queen Alexandra, shows photographs of Alexandra, dating from 1901, wearing a diamond crown that is much smaller than a traditional royal crown.
Crafted by Garrard in 1871 at the request of Queen Victoria, the miniature crown was designed to be worn over Queen Victoria widow’s cap.
Set with more than 1,000 diamonds and featuring alternating crosses and fleur-de-lis motifs, Garrard created the crown so that the arches could be removed.
Queen Victoria wore the Small Diamond Crown for the first time at the opening of Parliament in 1871 and frequently thereafter for state occasions.
After Queen Victoria’s death, the crown was worn by Queen Alexandra, who in turn passed it to her daughter-in-law, Queen Mary.
Today, Queen Victoria’s Small Diamond Crown is housed at the Jewel House at the Tower of London, where it is on display.
Both King George VI and HM The Queen are pictured wearing the Imperial State Crown in the Life Through a Royal Lens exhibition.
The 10th iteration of this historic jewel, the crown was crafted by Garrard in 1937 for King George VI and adjusted for The Queen ahead of her coronation in 1953.
Some of the most historic gems in the royal collection reside in this Crown Jewel, including, at the front of the crown, the Cullinan II, the second largest diamond cut from the 3,106-carat Cullinan Diamond – the largest gem-quality rough diamond ever discovered.
Above it, mounted on a diamond Maltese cross, is the Black Prince Ruby, which is not a ruby at all.
In the 16th century, it was discovered that this blood-red semi-polished stone is, in fact, a spinel, a gem that is often referred to as “the great imposter” after it was discovered that some of the most famous “rubies” seen in crown jewels around the world are, indeed, spinels.
A big moment in Garrard’s history was the recutting of the Koh-i-Noor Diamond.
This sizeable white diamond was first displayed to the public at the Great Exhibition of 1851.
In 1852, Prince Albert, who was instrumental in the creation of the Exhibition, commission Garrard to recut the diamond.
The intensely demanding cutting process lasted eight weeks and was overseen by The Duke of Wellington.
Garrard worked to create more facets to enhance its beauty; consequently, the diamond emerged as a dazzling brilliant weighing 105.6 carats.
In 1911, the Koh-i-Noor was set into Queen Mary’s Crown, newly created by Garrard for the Coronation.
Today, the fabled Koh-i-Noor Diamond (which is now only worn by a woman – if a man wears it, he will supposedly be cursed) is set at the centre of The Queen Mother’s Crown created by Garrard in 1937.
In a black-and-white photograph taken at the Delhi Durbar in 1911, held to mark the coronation of King George V and Queen Mary as Emperor and Empress of India, Queen Mary is pictured wearing the magnificent Delhi Durbar Suite.
Created by Garrard at the request of the Queen, who wanted a suite of jewels that perfectly captured the majesty of the occasion, the suite included an emerald and diamond tiara, earrings, a brooch, a stomacher, and a spectacular necklace.
Designed by Garrard in a striking circlet style, the Delhi Durbar necklace is set with eight large cabochon emeralds known collectively as the Cambridge Emeralds, with a pendant suspended beneath set with a ninth Cambridge Emerald.
In 1912, Garrard made slight alterations to the necklace, making the emerald pendant detachable and adding a second removable pendant showcasing the 8.80-carat marquise cut Cullinan VII diamond.
Queen Mary regularly wore the necklace and the other jewels in the parure for the rest of her life, after which they became the property of Her Late Majesty Queen Elizabeth II, who inherited the Delhi Durbar Necklace in 1953 and had worn it on many occasions.
The Delhi Durbar Tiara, meanwhile, was given by Her Late Majesty The Queen to Camilla, Queen Consort, after her marriage to His Majesty King Charles III.
Commissioned by Queen Mary in 1919, the Fringe Tiara was crafted by Garrard in the fashionable Russian style reminiscent of a kokoshnik and designed to be convertible so that it could be worn as either a tiara or a necklace.
Queen Mary gave the tiara to her daughter-in-law, Queen Elizabeth, later the Queen Mother, who was pictured wearing it in Cecil Beaton’s whimsical portrait.
Queen Elizabeth in turn loaned it to her daughter, Her Late Majesty Queen Elizabeth II, then Princess Elizabeth, to wear for her wedding to Philip Mountbatten in 1947 as her “something borrowed.”
In 1974, the Queen Mother loaned the Fringe tiara for another royal wedding, that of her granddaughter Princess Anne.
Most recently, it was worn by Princess Beatrice on the occasion of her wedding to Edoardo Mapelli Mozzi in 2020.
Originally created by Garrard in 1870 for Florence, Lady Poltimore, the 2nd Baron of Poltimore, the Poltimore Tiara was not publicly known until it was acquired by Princess Margaret prior to her engagement to Antony Armstrong-Jones in 1959.
Featuring elegant diamond scrolls evocative of flora – an enduring source of inspiration during the Victorian era in which it was made – it quickly became one of the Princess’s most prized possessions.
In the ensuing years, both Margaret and the towering jewel were regularly in the spotlight, including, most famously, the photograph on show as part of the Life Through a Royal Lens exhibition featuring the Princess wearing the Poltimore Tiara in the bathtub.
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