It’s done!
After ten days of work (and another three for a waistcoat I’m not that happy with; see below), the NotD coat is finished! Woohoo!
Overall, I’m really pleased with it, which is just as well as it’s taken so much time (and grief!). I worked out that if I’d paid myself minimum wage for all the hours I put in the labour alone would amount to about £500. One of my ex colleagues used to suggest I set up a dressmaking business and wouldn’t believe me when I told her it wouldn’t be cost effective as the amount of labour involved would make everything too expensive.
Anyway, I have taken quite a lot of photos, so you can see how it turned out:
This got long so I’ll stick the rest behind a cut.
I ended up adding some extra fabric to the tails, as they were sticking out at an angle and didn’t look right. It means an extra seam but it’s not that visible and I much prefer it this way, with more fullness at the back (and it properly covers my bum, which is very important!):
Though it looks fine on the dummy when I put it on I’m not convinced I didn’t raise the back waist seam a bit too far, but it’s sitting on my waist so… *shrugs* I don’t often look at myself from behind so it probably doesn’t matter that much.
After sewing on the two back buttons I changed my mind and went with the covered ones in the end, deciding on reflection that those I bought last week were a bit too pale. They would have fitted better if I’d made the binding more of a contrast (which I’m glad I didn’t as it would have been more obvious that it’s not exactly perfect in some places). I had to make the buttonholes manually as there was no way the automatic buttonhole foot wouldn’t get caught at some point. I haven’t sewn any that way since I first started out six years ago and was using my mother’s old machine! All the ones I’ve owned have had an automatic function so I had to practice a bit to remind myself how to do it. Thankfully they’ve turned out well.
I also solved the problem of the gap between the collar and lapel by stitching them together. It works a treat!
Though I’ve made a miniature version for Eight Bear, this is the first time I’ve tried to replicate an existing garment for myself (the Dark Eyes coat was an interpretation rather than a direct copy), and I am actually really proud that I’ve ended up with something that does look pretty much like the original, as well as Steven Ricks’s recreation, which has been a definite influence!
That said, while the coat has turned out well I’m not massively pleased with the waistcoat. I decided to make another one on a whim as I had a more accurate pattern and saw what looked like an ideal fabric but I don’t like it all that much now it’s done. It was hell to put together because the satin just started disintegrating and still is; I’ve had to sew up holes in both the pockets because the seams have just frayed straight through and I’d put them together before I thought of stabilising the edges with interfacing. It’s another men’s pattern and I should have made some adjustments but after doing so much to the coat I really couldn’t be bothered and just put it together as it was; I should really have added some length, which is ironic given the amount I had to remove from the coat, and perhaps levelled it off at the front. Consequently it’s not a great fit and sits really awkwardly on Stella as you can see, though that may have something to do with the fact that I put the buttonholes on the wrong side out of habit:
There is a watch on the end of the chain this time, because the pockets are real! I quite like the look of the waistcoat undone when I put it on, but done up not so much. There’s a lot of spare fabric in the front for some reason, which I tried to hide by smoothing it under the collar and then stitching the collar down. It hasn’t entirely worked, and it doesn’t help that the brocade is such a bouncy fabric and doesn’t press well.
Putting it all together I do think it looks better on Stella than me, but that’s probably because I rarely wear so many layers! I wish I had a better backdrop than the bedroom but it’ll have to do:
Maybe I could unbutton the waistcoat and untuck the shirt and be Eight having a casual day? I love the coat but I do feel much more comfortable wearing it over a t-shirt and jeans!
Now I just have to wait until some cooler weather to be able to put it into use. My only gripe is that there are no external pockets, either on the original or the pattern I used! Surely you’d think the Doctor would need pockets?
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Thasmin Fic Recs:
Action / Adventure:
Echoes of War by Eriadu (Series - 2 Works) (T) (Telepathy) ( AO3)
Ghostwalk by Eriadu (E) (3) (Angst) (Spooky)
The Curse of the Pharaoh by Mag_lex (T) (13) (AO3)
Angsty:
A frozen moment by Eriadu (E) (2) (AO3)
are you really gonna love me when i'm gone? by freefallvertigo (E) (4) (dark!Doctor) (AO3)
Cloudbursting by headcanonsandmore (T) (1) (AO3)
Corrosion by Mag_lex (M) (6) (Memory loss AU) (AO3)
Courage & Stupidity by seaunicorn (T) (1) (AO3)
Forever in a moment by Captainswanmycaptainswan (T) (1) (AO3)
The Path Erased by Eriadu (T) (4) (Two of Yaz) (AO3)
time has been unkind by seaunicorn (E) (1) ( AO3)
When it all comes crashing down by Eriadu (E) (1) (AO3)
You laugh like there's hope in the story by freefallvertigo (T) (1) (AO3)
AUs:
A Dark & Verdant Door by Eriadu (M) (27) (faun!13) (sheriff!Yaz) (AO3)
A week (and half a world) away by Eriadu (E) (7) (human!13) (modern AU)(AO3)
chance is the only game i play with, baby by timelxrd (E) (15) (nb!Yaz) (boxing AU) (human!13) (AO3)
honey don't feed it, it will come back by timelxrd (E) (4) (cryptid AU) (AO3)
Love is Blind by Might_Be_A_Zygon (T) (1) (Angst) (Gorgon AU) (Major character death) (AO3)
Never Cruel or Cowardly by Bow_Ties (E) (65) (Fantasy AU) (AO3)
Pink Elephants by TechnicolorRevel (G) (1) (daemon AU) (AO3)
Star by Star by Eriadu (E) (27) (Space Opera AU) (pilot!Yaz) (medicaldoctor!13)
The Line of Fire by mag_lex (M) (11) (Wordpress) (human!Doctor) (bodyguard AU)
where I want to go by seaunicorn (T) (12) (AO3) (human!13) (road trip AU)
Comedy:
don't sound like friends by InLust (T) (3) (AO3)
Halloween Time-Knot by edlweiss (E) (4) (AO3)
home is where you rest your bones by orphan_account (E) (1) (AO3)
Notes to Self by Eriadu (E) (1) (PWP with humor) (AO3)
Fluff:
A Home for the Holidays by mag_lex (T)(2) (AO3)
Astronomy in reverse (it was me who was discovered) by transboytwelve (T) (1) (Fake dating) (AO3)
Buttons by mag_lex (G) (1) (Wordpress)
By the light of the moon by freefallvertigo (G) (1) (AO3)
Candy Floss by Evviejo (G) (1) AO3)
collision by timelxrd (T) (1) (AO3)
Stars On The Ceiling by swallowthecap (G) (1) (AO3)
The Earring by Evviejo (G) (1) (AO3)
Hurt / Comfort:
baby, you could be the death of me by freefallvertigo (E) (1) (AO3)
dead leaves and the dirty ground by Eriadu (T) (1) (hanahaki inspired) (AO3)
keep me close, love me most by seaunicorn (E) (1) (AO3)
right here, right now by InLust (T) (1) (AO3)
OT3:
baby, it ain't right (but isn't it amazing?) By transboytwelve (E) (1) (human!13) (Riverx13xYaz) (AO3)
begging for thread by orphan_account (E) (3) (unfinished) (Fashion / Model AU) (human!13) (ClaraxYazx13) (AO3)
I've never been a natural (all I do is try) by transboytwelve (E) (1) (Billx13xYaz) (AO3)
the way you react to me - Dirty Little Secrets by how_to_sit_gay (E) (13xYazxRose) (AO3)
PWP:
A Suprising Lack of Context by Rowanthestrange (E) (1) (AO3)
Ad Astra by Mag_lex (E) (1) (fluff) (wordpress)
anodized by TechnicolorRevel (E) (1) (AO3)
boiling point by vividfriend (E) (1) (AO3)
crave by freefallvertigo (E) (1) (AO3)
Drifting by Eriadu (E) (1) (AO3)
Drive-Through by mag_lex (E) (Crack) (1) (Wordpress)
Go Quiet by WinterTheWriter (E) (1) (AO3)
I Read It For The Articles by TechnicolorRevel (E) (1) (AO3)
I'm the holy water you have been without by transboytwelve (E) (1) (trans!Yaz) (AO3)
On Begged and Borrowed Time by transboytwelve (E) (Angsty) (1) (AO3)
take a picture, babe (cos I'm already yours) by transboytwelve (E) (2) (AO3)
Tendencies and Bravery by GolM (E) (1) (AO3)
the way that you react to me- Good Clean Fun by how_to_sit_gay (E) (1) ( AO3)
Tickety-Boo by TechnicolorRevel (E) (1) (AO3)
Time and Time Again by rowanthestrange (E) (Angst) (1) (AO3)
we're all born naked by TechnicolorRevel (E) (1) (AO3)
what will be the signal be for your eyes to see me by TechnicolorRevel (E) (1) (AO3)
Romance:
come as you are by freefallvertigo (E) (1) (AO3)
Discovery by Mag_lex (E) (1) (wordpress)
in the lines of time by fictorium (G) (1) (AO3)
Love found me all disarmed by Mag_lex (E) (4) (AO3)
misplacing home by yazkhan (G) (4) (AO3)
Sneaky Little Ghost Monument by LoadsofCustardCreams (T) (2) (AO3)
Soar (when I lay down with you) by how_to_sit_gay (E) (2) (Angst) (AO3)
through the waters and the wild by TechnicolorRevel (G) (1) (AO3)
your soul calls out in a familiar voice by abcooper (G) (3) (AO3)
Whittaker!Master:
Enter at Last, Master. by Might_Be_A_Zygon (E) (2) (Paranormal AU) (AO3)
Never Cruel or Cowardly - Dangerous Liaisons by Bow_Ties (E) (39) (Fantasy AU) (AO3)
The Unraveling of Yasmin Khan by transboytwelve (E) (3) (AO3)
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