#tudor fashion

[galactic-bi-cat]

Tudor Barbie (Princess and the Pauper)

Why tudor era, you may ask? Isn't everyone making her a rococo queen since the movie is visually set during that era?

Well... I went in a different direction because of this lil note

[dresshistorynerd]

An Introductory Timeline of Western Women's Fashion

I think a good place to start to get into dress history is general overview of the whole timeline. Understanding especially how the silhouettes change is really important ground knowledge to build the rest of the information on.

I'll start the timeline from Middle Ages and go till the first world war. I'll focus on upper class England/French sector, so keep in mind that before 17th century there were huge regional differences in fashion inside Europe and class differences too. There is a lot variance, changes and nuance inside any century and decade I'm about to discuss, but I'll try to keep this short and introductory and very simplified. I used a very scientific method of basically what makes most sense to me to divide the periods. I've made sketches what I would consider to be the basic silhouette of the period stripped mostly out of the detail and then I give couple of primary source examples.

12th century (Middle Ages)

Dress was simple one or more tunics over a chemise. They were overly long for upper classes, made out of straight lines. There were loose tunics often worn over another tunic, and tunics with laced bodice called biaut. In France bliaut sleeves often widened from the elbow, in England they often widened in frists.

13th century (Middle Ages)

Clothing was mostly very similar as in the previous century, though bliaut was mostly gone and new popular style was a loose sleeves surcoat.

14th century (Middle Ages)

Tailoring basically revolutionized clothing production, since clothes weren't made out of rectangles anymore and could be better made to fit form. Also functional buttons and lacing was popularized resulting in very fitted styles. The underlayer tunic, kirtle, became a fitted supporting layer.

15th century (Middle Ages)

Improvements in weaving technology and trade and growing prosperity in Europe showed in clothing as excess of fabric and variety of trends. Houppelande, a loose A-lined overdress lined with fur and fastened with a wide belt under chest, became a very popular clothing item, and in later decades developed into the iconic Burgundian dress (the red dress). Fitted overdress continued to be popular alongside the warmer houppelandes.

1500s-1550s (Tudor period)

In the renaissance era clothing became increasingly structured and elaborate. The bodice was heavily boned and the skirt was also structured.

1560s-1610s (Elizabethan Era)

Both structuring and elaborate decoration reach it's peak during Queen Elizabeth's reign. She became the defining fashion icon of the late renaissance.

1620s-1670s (Baroque)

In baroque era the bodice was still heavily structured, but more curved than the conical Elizabethan bodice. Otherwise though structuring was replaces with dramatic excess of fabric.

1680s-1710s (Baroque)

In the late 17th century there was a huge shift in the clothing industry as mantua, a loose open robe inspired by Japanese kimono, came to dominate fashion. Rigid bodice was replaces by structured under layer, stays. Stays brought back the conical silhouette of Elizabethan era.

1720s-1780s (Rococo)

Mantua developed into the iconic Rococo dress in France, robe à la francaise (first example picture), and in England robe à la anglaise with closed bodice. Rococo fashion was characterized by the wide silhouette of the skirt.

Since Tumblr won't accept more than 10 pictures per a post I'll have to continue in a reblog. So to be continued!

[thesadvampire]

Details of Details of Crow's Eye Productions "Getting Dressed - Royal Tudors" ft Queen Catherine Parr

[scifrey]

Videos to Watch if You Enjoyed "Cling Fast"

How Much Booze Did Medieval People Really Drink? - Dr. Eleanor Janega teaches us how to booze it up, White Horse-style.

Could You Make a Living in Medieval London? - Another great Eleanor Janega video about occupations, scandals, and the every day lives of every day folks in Medieval cities.

What Was Life Really Like For A Medieval Peasant? - the last of the Eleanor Janega videos about what kind of life Hob Gadling would have lived before he met his Stranger.

A Tudor Feast - domestic historians and archeologists Ruth Goodman, Alex Langlands, Peter "Fonz" Ginn and Hugh Beamish - under the supervision of Marc Meltonville of Hampton Court Palace's Tudor kitchens - prepare and serve a tudor banquet at Haddon Hall in Derbyshire. Part One, Part Two, Part Three, Part Four

Who Do You Think You Are: Danny Dyer Learns Tudor Etiquette - A segment from the Ancestry.com series following actor Danny Dyer as he explores his royal roots.

Who Would Be King of England Today According to Henry VIII's Will? - chartmaker Matt Baker takes us through the royal family tree from Henry the Eighth to the present day, if his edict that the next monarch in the event that his three children (Mary, Edward, and Elizabeth) produced no heirs, then the crown should next fall to the children of his youngest sister. And not, as actually happened, go to James of Scotland.

Royal Myths: Elizabeth I and the Spanish Armada - Dr. Lucy Worsley talks us through the propaganda and fibs that have sprung up around Good Queen Bess, and whether or not she really did declare that she had the stomach of a king.

Dancing Cheek to Cheek: The Devil's Work - Another great series by Dr. Lucy Worsley, chief curator of Royal Historic Palaces, but this time she's joined by Strictly Come Dancing's Len Goodman. They trace the history of dance in Britain, and this episode features some rowdy Medieval and Elizabethan numbers.

Turn Back Time: Tudor Monastery Farm - This series sees Ruth, Alex, and Peter return to the Elizabethan age, this time spending a year on a farm worked by peasants and serfs in service to the church.

The Tudors' Bizarre 12 Days Of Christmas Ritual - The Tudor Monastery Farm Christmas special.

Hardwick Hall: A window onto the Elizabethan world - Sheffield Hallam University gives a great look at Hardwick Hall (more glass than wall), the estate home of the wealthiest woman in Britain at the time, and the kind of place Hob would have aspired to build.

Tudor Food & Etiquette Explained in 14 Minutes - Quick and dirty explanation of where your napkin goes and who the 'chairman of the board' was.

Tudor Houses Explained in 10 Minutes - Not particularly engagingly presented, but a video chock full of visual examples of different kinds of Tudor houses and buildings.

Modern History: The Knight - Jason Kingsley introduces us to the concept behind Modern History and in particular their first series, “The Knight”. Jason has been fascinated by history his whole life, in particular the medieval period and the life of knights. (This is the first video of a playlist).

Royal Armouries - Elizabethan Swordsmanship - a demonstration by weaponsmasters at the Royal Armouries Museum in Leeds. (I recommend turning on closed captioning for this one, as the sound was recorded live with no mics.)

Getting Dressed - Tudor Royal Household - a nice, even-paced and well produced video showing what it was like to get dressed in queen Katherine Parr's household.

Dressing Up a Tudor Man - my personal heroes at Prior Attire show us what the blokes were wearing at the time. Keep in mind that this is 40 years too early for Hob and Dream's disastrous Shakespeare-ruined feast. (I recommend turning on closed captioning for this one, as the sound was recorded live with no mics.)

And just for the fun of it:

Medieval Pickup Lines from the folks behind (I believe?) Whores of Yore, and Top Tudor Historian Rates Famous Movie Scenes, wherein Dr Nicola Tallis, British historian and author of three books on the Tudors, rates scenes from five blockbuster movies set in the Tudor period. (I love how scandalized she gets.)

If you want more, I really recommend anything at all featuring Doctors Lucy Worsley, Eleanor Janega, and Ruth Goodman (search their names on YouTube and you'll find a wealth of clips, full episodes, and even playlists.)

[abz-j-harding]

Tudor Wolf - Ones Heart Bleeds

X

[ibrithir-was-here]

Tired of recycling fashion only as far back as last century and even then only the last half. Let’s go back further and get some more inspo. Behold, a preppy Tudor inspired outfit that came to me in a mad rush.

[marytudorqueenofengland]

Tudor Women’s Fashion from the book Historical costumes of England: from the eleventh to the twentieth century By Nancy Bradfield

[kathrynhoward]

At the time of her death, Elizabeth I's wardrobe inventory listed some 1900 items, but now only one or two objects directly associated with her have been identified. [...] The intrinsic value of fabric was such that it was usually handed down, repurposed and refashioned, until its original provenance was severed and the garments were rendered almost unrecognisable from their original form. Elizabeth's many gowns are now probably threadbare cushion or seat covers in stately homes across the land, though we can say one, at least was probably used as an alter cloth.

Eleri Lynn, Tudor Fashion

[the-embroidered-screen]

Becoming Elizabeth, 2022 Costume design by Bartholomew Cariss

Alicia von Rittberg as Elizabeth in Embroidered smock similar to a 17th Century smock in the V&A collection

English Smock, c.1615-1630 Linen embroidered with Silk in Stem Stitch

[obsessiveracheldraws]

I have drawn Winterbaron in their finery! See my Redbubble shop Racheburn for stickers 💜

[carpe-mamilia]

What would you wear to a ball at Lost Hope?

Ohhh boy this is a very exciting ask, thank you!

I thought about this a lot and it was tricky narrowing down which time period to draw inspiration from, especially with the temptation to take it from after the point at which Jonathan Strange and Mr Norrell is set. My first thought was a turn of the century tea gown, since they have those fantastic renaissance and medieval inspired details, and that art nouveau influence fits really well with the fantasy look:

Liberty tea gown ca. 1897

I also considered an outfit that would take heavy inspiration from the costume Johnny Flynn wore as Viola in the Globe's all-male production of Twelfth Night, but with a single pearl earring:

Viola (right). This production is great, I recommend watching the recording if you can!

But this early 17th century outfit finally led me on to Restoration-era gowns. They're not to everybody's taste, but personally I find the shape of their bodices and necklines very flattering. Many of the Lost Hope costumes draw inspiration from nature (such as the Gentleman's oak leaf coat or Arabella's gorgeous wheat-ear tiara), and I love the sea and wanted to incorporate that into a costume. There are a number of portraits of ladies wearing steely blue-grey silk or velvet that perfectly evoke the colour of the sea in different seasons in my part of the world (the west country, UK; none of the turquoise of hotter climates here!). Stiff, crisp silk also makes a lovely whispering noise when you walk, not unlike the sound of distant waves over shingle.

Many of these gowns let the lustrous fabric take centre-stage and are fairly plain, but I really liked the look of the embroidered or decorated stomachers some of them have:

Pearls, swags of fabric, lace, and flowers adorn these bodices. I particularly like how the lady on the right has a matching floral arrangement in her hair.

My own bodice was inspired by the linen sailor collar I embroidered last year, with seaweed-esque vermicelli and oysters holding pearls.

My collar, still not finished...

'Rockpool', textile art by Marian Jazmik

A mixture of pearls, shells, and heavily textured embroidery in blues, greens and silver on my bodice and in my hair would mimic the textures and colours of rocks at low tide. At my cuffs and neckline would be quantities of frothy lace, evoking sea foam, and finally, since it wouldn't be Lost Hope without a little magic, the silk of my gown would sometimes appear to swirl just as the surface of the sea is ruffled by the wind, little wavelets moving over it before becoming calm and smooth again.

Thank you so much for this ask, I really enjoyed it! If anyone else reading this post is a fan of Jonathan Strange and Mr Norrell, or just likes the idea of a fantasy ball, I'd love to hear about your ideal costumes!

[tjdrewthis]

Fundraiser commission for @shapeofmetal of their OC Sparkbite in Tudor fashion!

This is actually a sequel 💜

[natalisadesigns]

My sister fricking slayed in these stays I’ve made! I love my job!

[junebugjo]

the post-critique iteration of my first assignment for class this semester

[hoopskirtsociety]

Historical Fashion Detail By Trade.

Portrait of a Man (The Tailor)

c.1570 (oil on canvas) by Moroni, Giovanni Battista