#Project Tutorial for Beginners

[gantengpermanen]

Simple beginners guide how to build create WebHID API Electron JS Desktop App for windows 10 & windows 11. Electron webhid api Desktop App html js Script: https://bit.ly/4egIyAw or https://drive.google.com/file/d/1euT1JxtpOgdZwVpA5C1nXOZRZ7bnbsoa/ Electron JS Desktop App Project Tutorial for Beginners: WebHID API Example w/ Source Code

[just-a-sketchbook]

First Quilt!

It has been a lot of fun and a lot of trial and error but it's done!!!

It's roughly 1.20 x 1.20m (which is a number of feet I can't be bothered to look up but let's say it's about child sized and it'll be great to chill on the couch).

I want to thank @langdon813 who I've never talked to (sorry if you hate being tagged) but whose gorgeous Drunkard path quilts made me wanna do it too :)

I had never done any quilting before (but I did sew), so here's what I've learned, if any beginner is interested in jumping off the deep end the way I did and wants advice from someone who has freshly acquired experience but will also not use any confusing technical terms (with pictures!) :

Fabric picking : so most advice I read was to go for pre-selected bundles of fabric that already go together, but I'm contrary and like to do my own thing so I used wax fabric (the blue ones on top the pile) I had laying around, which I strongly recommend: it's very easy to cut due to it being waxed, and I added a few fat squares from the shop, plus I also had the orange and blue floral and I based the coulour scheme on it. One thing that's true is it would have been easier to work with fabric of the same thickness, and the floral was givne to me by my ma who got in on trip to Thailand and it was alot thinner than the rest which didn't help.

Cutting: I got a rotary cutter for the occasion and it's great! Do not maybe push too hard on it and give yourself nerve damage the way I did (temporary but still), it's actually ery sharp and easy to use, so long as your template doesn't slip you're fine

Piecing :Yes you can do curved piecing even if you have zero experience, you just gotta make a template and

pin it a lot.

1/4 inch margins is the standard so I rolled with it because I don't like converting, but when you're strictly metric it is kind of annoying but doable because my machine does have a 1/4 inch mark and if you stick a length of tape along it it's pretty easy to follow, even for curved piecing.

Layout: At some point you've got to decide the layout is done, because I've re-arranged the blocks at least 6 times and it's a very good way to go insane. (For rough reference, my plan was to have no repeat fabrics in any of the circle-in-a-square blocks, and I only made one mistake which I clocked too late to change)

Chain piecing!! Meaning you pile your blocks together in a specific order (that I personnaly wrote straight up on each piece with a very sophisticated letter/numbers down/across system) and then just sew them together in a line without having to cut the thread between each pair. Looks a little like a fanion banner and at some point it feels like you'll be forever tangled into it but then it's magic :) It's not that hard actually and will save you a lot of time + there's a lot of online tutorials you can use.

Basting! (which it took me while to understand is the part where you attach the backing, the fluff and the quilt top together) : you need more safety pins. Safety pins will save you from the wrinkles and the unfortunate oopsies of realising you've caught your backing double folded into your quilting stitch, which I did a good three times and was not fun to undo. Also, I forgot to tape the backing to the floor and it probably would have helped with the wrinkling...

Backing : I used an old linen table cloth I got for 10€ at a charity shop, and I've still got about 2/3 of it left, so I recommend that, it's sturdy but soft enough, doesn't thread easily and can be washed at very high temps, if that's a thing you do.

Quilting! Well, my machine came with a quilting foot for free motion quilting (which means you're the one moving the fabric along in whichever direction and you can sort of draw with your stitches) and it seemed fun so I did that, and here's what I learned : curves are hard but doable, also my machine doesn't like to go back (kept skipping sitiches for some reason) so it involves a lot of shifting the quilt around, which isn't easy considering the bulk. And also, drawing the quilting pattern you want so you can follow it while quilting actually does help, I used an iron/heat-erasable pen and it worked just fine. Check your stitch tension, mine was too loose and I realised too late so there's spots where I could pull on the thread and it looped, had to stitch back over that.

Quilitng pattern : I wasn't sure what to do, supposedly your batting (aka: the fluff) comes with instructions on how tight you should quilt to avoid it coming apart through use but I got mine cut at the fabric shop and forgot to ask so I just rolled with a rough 10cm maximum distance in between stitching lines but tried to do less in most places. According to many blogs : the tighter your lines the stiffer your quilt, so I kept it loose for comfort. (Picture is halfway done, I added a smaller square/circle inside each square/circle and if you look at it you'll see it's actually diagonal lines form one end of the fabric to the other.)

Binding is boring, and there's nothing to it. I got a length of pre-cut bias binding, machine-sewed it front to front to the quilt top side of the quilt and the folded it back and secured it by hand to the back with a ladder stitch. Took me roughly and entire rewatch of the Last Of Us. There's a trick to doing the corners that's fairly simple but I've lost the tutorial...

Overall : I got myself a quilting book with techinques and such and it helped, but there's a ton of stuff online, and once you get over the very Christian American mum vibe of most of the blogs, it's all very helpful (and gorgeous!) (no offense meant to Christian American mums, it's just a bit of a culture shock from where I'm standing).

[fantasykiri5]

Chat which do we like more, with or without the extra little patches of colors (ignore that the bark edge on the top isn't finished- I'm gonna do it once I've figured put the rest of the bark)

[hopefulturns]

Crochet Roses Flower Bouquet Blanket

Follow this beginner-friendly, slow, detailed, step-by-step tutorial to make your own blanket!

HopefulTurns@YouTube

[blumin-onion]

Got today's video up a bit early compared to the last few! 😅

[anielskaaniela]

Understanding Seam Allowance in Sewing: A Comprehensive Guide for Beginners and Experts

In this post you learn how to add seam allowance to sewing patterns. Do you want to learn how to sew garments that look professional and fit well? If so, you need to master the concept of seam allowance. Seam allowance is one of the most important aspects of sewing, yet it is often overlooked or misunderstood by many sewists. In this guide, we’ll explain everything you need to know about seam…

[scratchmakes]

Making simple pouches from scraps

This started as a comment about simple projects for beginner sewists, but it got a bit out of hand, so I decided to drop it on this blog with illustrations for easier reference!

The result are pouches that I use to organize small things like the items in my daily carry bag (e.g. pens, medicine/toiletries) or regularly packed items that I would like to be able to grab quickly to bring to certain outings (e.g. dice bag for roleplay).

Generally, there are four kinds of pouches I have made from scraps:

A flat, rectangular drawstring bag, good for small items like e.g. tampons, band aids, pill blisters. We're going to discuss two variations, one of which is a little easier (a) and one that IMHO looks a little better (b).

A flat, equally rectangular zipper bag, good for pens or makeup.

A circle drawstring bag, good as a smaller dice bag or as a gift bag, imho.

A circle drawstring bag with a flat bottom. A bit more complicated, but better for bigger dice collections. Because we greedy gremlins need space for all our shiny click-clacks, don't we ;)

1. Flat Drawstring Pouch

These are super easy in my opinion. You’ll need either a single piece that is significantly wider than it is high, which I usually make into version a or two scraps in about the same size, which I like to use for version b.

For version a, to make it a drawstring, we fold over the top edge (about 1,5cm/half an inch is usually enough) to the inside and sew that down close to that folded down fabric edge.

For version b, do the same for both pieces, but the fold over needs to be a bit bigger (about 3cm/an inch) as you need a little more space. Sew this down the same as version a, but add a second seam above, with a distance of about 1cm (~3/8th inch). If you have a twin needle, this might also be a use for it.

Then, for version a, you fold the wide piece in half and for version b you lay the two pieces on top of each other, outsides together in both cases. And then you sew shut all the sides you want to be closed.

Turn it inside out and – using a seam ripper or pair of snips – cut holes into the outer layer of fabric on each side of each side seam.

This means two holes for version a between the seam and top edge and four holes for version b, between the two seams.

(Only one side each depicted here, do the same on the back.)

Then you can thread a string or ribbon into one of the holes and through the channels you have sewn. I tie the string to a small safety pin as it is easier to push through the channel from the outside.

For version b you can either use two strings (one for each side) or one long one to go all the way around (by going out the hole on one side of the side seam and going into the one on the other side of the side seam).

Tie up the ends of your strings and you’ve got your drawstring bag!

2. Flat Zipper Bag

As a note: The zipper might prove challenging. However, it does present a great opportunity to try your hand on this dreaded piece of haberdashery. To make things easier on yourself I would recommend to avoid invisible or separating zippers and to make sure they’re not shorter than the longest item (e.g. the longest pen) you would like to fit through it.

Aside from the zipper you will need a roughly square piece of fabric. I usually just use the zipper as a ruler for one side, making sure that the whole scrap (so including seam allowance) is the same length as the tape. If you don’t quite have that, take e.g. the noted longest pen as reference and, as illustrated below, make sure that (in addition to seam allowance) one side of the square is the length of the pencil (L) and two of its heights (H).

The other side determines how much space we have in the pouch. So for our example we want it to be at least three pencil heights plus one extra for wiggle room (so 4*H). But we need this measure twice because a pouch generally has at least two sides, so all in all we’re at 8*H. Or you use whatever you have as long as it’s bigger than that. ;)

First of all we sew the zipper in. We determine the outside of both the zipper and the fabric and put them against each other, with one of the outer edges of the zipper tape aligned with the side that is supposed to be the opening. Pin it, then you sew it on with a straight stitch. If you’re using a normal foot (in contrast to a zipper foot, which should come with its own instructions), you can usually let it run along the teeth, as that will provide a great ruler to not get any wobbliness in your seam.

Tip: Make sure you’re not sewing too close to the zipper’s slider. I usually push it all the way to the opposing end of the zipper when I start sewing and when I’m halfway, I sink my needle into the fabric, lift the sewing foot and pull the slider all the way to the already sewn end before I lower the foot again and proceed to sew the other half.

You’ve attached one side of the zipper! Great! Now do the same thing on the other side, still making sure to lay outsides onto each other. You will end up with what looks like a zippable tube with the slider on the inside. Flatten the tube, pin it closed if necessary (the zipper tape might be a bit stubborn) and sew it close on both ends. (Careful to move the slider away from your needle!)

I like my zipper on one edge, but you can just as well flatten the tube so the zipper is centered on one of the sides.

Turn the whole thing inside out and TADA! Zipper pouch!

3. Circular Drawstring Pouch

This pouch is probably the easiest of the pouches as you only have to sew a channel around the edge and draw a string through. That channel, however, is basically a hem on a small circle. Which will prepare you for the pain of hemming circle skirts ;)

Once again you will have to cut holes for the drawstring to go in and it is fully a matter of taste if you do more than two holes, but they should be an even number.

4. Drawstring Pouch With Flat Bottom

This pouch has similarities with the other draw string pouch, but because of the flat bottom it is the only one that will stand on its own, which makes it a good shape for a bigger pouch. Nevertheless, it is still a good scrap project!

You will need a circular piece and a strip that is the length of the circle’s circumference and at least the height of the circle’s radius 6 cm / 2 inches.

(If you struggle to find the circle’s circumference and radius, I included the equations for both in the illustration below. The Diameter can be measured by folding the circle in half and measuring the fold.)

Fold over one of the long (top) edges and sew drawstring channels as described for the flat pouches. Then lay the bottom edge along the edge of the circle, pin and sew them together. You will hate it, as flats sewn to curves is the point of this, but it’s worth the effort.

Finally, sew the two short edges of the strip together and turn the bag inside out.

Once again, you will have to add a drawstring, but it is up to you how many holes you cut for it, 2 or more, buit an even number.

[rlikerefashion-blog]

How to Download My Free beginner Sewing Patterns: Step-by-Step Guide

[prettiestpear]

Looking for a gloomy day project? Try making a chain stitch rainbow!This project is beginner friendly and uses only 3 basic embroidery stitches.

Watch the tutorial

[madtomedgar]

I wish the fiber craft stores had classes on the things that are actually difficult and intimidating and hard to learn by yourself like different types of short rows, or how to do a button band with buttons, or colorwork, or the dreaded steek, or bobbles or icord instead of dozens of 101 classes where they teach you how to cast on, knit, purl, bind off, and mayyyyybe really basic increase and decrease, and then occasionally they have a "class" labeled 102 or skill building or something that is just open knitting while an instructor (who is also working the register) is available if you have a question, for $125-200.

[hob28]

Advanced C Programming: Mastering the Language

Introduction

Advanced C programming is essential for developers looking to deepen their understanding of the language and tackle complex programming challenges. While the basics of C provide a solid foundation, mastering advanced concepts can significantly enhance your ability to write efficient, high-performance code.

1. Overview of Advanced C Programming

Advanced C programming builds on the fundamentals, introducing concepts that enhance efficiency, performance, and code organization. This stage of learning empowers programmers to write more sophisticated applications and prepares them for roles that demand a high level of proficiency in C.

2. Pointers and Memory Management

Mastering pointers and dynamic memory management is crucial for advanced C programming, as they allow for efficient use of resources. Pointers enable direct access to memory locations, which is essential for tasks such as dynamic array allocation and manipulating data structures. Understanding how to allocate, reallocate, and free memory using functions like malloc, calloc, realloc, and free can help avoid memory leaks and ensure optimal resource management.

3. Data Structures in C

Understanding advanced data structures, such as linked lists, trees, and hash tables, is key to optimizing algorithms and managing data effectively. These structures allow developers to store and manipulate data in ways that improve performance and scalability. For example, linked lists provide flexibility in data storage, while binary trees enable efficient searching and sorting operations.

4. File Handling Techniques

Advanced file handling techniques enable developers to manipulate data efficiently, allowing for the creation of robust applications that interact with the file system. Mastering functions like fopen, fread, fwrite, and fclose helps you read from and write to files, handle binary data, and manage different file modes. Understanding error handling during file operations is also critical for building resilient applications.

5. Multithreading and Concurrency

Implementing multithreading and managing concurrency are essential skills for developing high-performance applications in C. Utilizing libraries such as POSIX threads (pthreads) allows you to create and manage multiple threads within a single process. This capability can significantly enhance the performance of I/O-bound or CPU-bound applications by enabling parallel processing.

6. Advanced C Standard Library Functions

Leveraging advanced functions from the C Standard Library can simplify complex tasks and improve code efficiency. Functions for string manipulation, mathematical computations, and memory management are just a few examples. Familiarizing yourself with these functions not only saves time but also helps you write cleaner, more efficient code.

7. Debugging and Optimization Techniques

Effective debugging and optimization techniques are critical for refining code and enhancing performance in advanced C programming. Tools like GDB (GNU Debugger) help track down bugs and analyze program behavior. Additionally, understanding compiler optimizations and using profiling tools can identify bottlenecks in your code, leading to improved performance.

8. Best Practices in Advanced C Programming

Following best practices in coding and project organization helps maintain readability and manageability of complex C programs. This includes using consistent naming conventions, modularizing code through functions and header files, and documenting your code thoroughly. Such practices not only make your code easier to understand but also facilitate collaboration with other developers.

9. Conclusion

By exploring advanced C programming concepts, developers can elevate their skills and create more efficient, powerful, and scalable applications. Mastering these topics not only enhances your technical capabilities but also opens doors to advanced roles in software development, systems programming, and beyond. Embrace the challenge of advanced C programming, and take your coding skills to new heights!

[captainbrookeworm]

I will never learn to cut my losses with an animation because I would simply rather spend two hours re-learning blender just to get a 5 second shot

[hopefulturns]

Learn to make your own cute Amigurumi Bunny Plushie! Ideal for beginners who know the basic stitches.

HopefulTurns@YouTube

[anielskaaniela]

How to Sew a Dress for Beginners: Easy DIY Tutorial

In this post, you will learn how to sew easy dress for beginners with free PDF pattern in 8 sizes. Love what you see ? Support me by snagging some cool items from my shop! Every purchase helps me bring you more awesome content. Thank you! Shop Now Are you ready to dive into the world of sewing and create your very own clothes? Today, I’m going to guide you through an easy sewing tutorial for…

[mazalejeenekasong]

How Eshwarprasad Built EP Ka Meter Films: From Smartphone Dreams to Real Stories

Introduction: You Don’t Need a Big Budget to Tell Big Stories Big dreams often get delayed because we think we need big resources.But the truth is, creativity starts where excuses end. Here’s how I, Eshwarprasad, founded EP Ka Meter Films with just a smartphone and a love for storytelling. The Beginning: Filmmaking with a Smartphone I didn’t have money for fancy cameras or lighting…