#and the only way to get that is a health-tested puppy from a responsible breeder who has worked on socializing their dogs from day one

[prans-micellar-water]

Idk unpopular opinion but. Buying a puppy from a responsible breeder who doesn’t allow any dog they’ve bred to end up in a shelter is a morally neutral act

[theborzoiarebackintown]

If you don't mind my asking, how much is it to do the echos/holters? Is it the sort of thing that's only covered if your pet has had a prior event?

Well there are a few different ways you can do this health testing! The most expensive way is going through a cardiologist, that’s gonna be probably a few k depending on where you live and all you need done.

Breeders and show people are most likely going to be doing echos at health clinics, which are typically set up by breed clubs or kennel clubs in conjuncture with shows. Prices will also depend on where you are, but echos at health clinics seem to be around $200-$400 around here.

The BCOA tries to offer most of the breed specific health testing during the borzoi national, and that’s where I did Margo and Charlie’s initial echos this past spring. I got a discount for being a BCOA member and I think it was $170 each, this was in TX.

Holters are a little different, and at this point aren’t typically included in health clinics as it’s a 24 hr or longer test. Holter monitors themselves cost roughly 1.2k give or take, and probably another couple hundred for the vest and monitor holder to protect it while in use. The BCOA offers holter monitor rentals to members and it’s not too expensive, but I thankfully have a few friends who own their own and are willing to let me use their’s. To actually get the holter analyzed and read, it’s $40 through Alba.

Echos should be done a minimum of every year a breeding is planned. I plan to test Margo annually if at all possible, and she would not be bred without an echo within that year. I don’t plan on echoing Charlie again until probably 8 or 9 unless his holters start showing issues, since he’s neutered and has all indications of a good heart. He will be echoed yearly, and at this point Margo will continue to be holtered every 6 months. If she continues to test with no doubles or triples I may go to once a year in the future.

And since we’re talking about all that, let’s also not forget the other breed specific health testing! Thyroid should be tested at least every few years imo, and I’d like to see it within a year of breeding. Eyes should be tested every few years also, imo, more if you’re in higher altitude. Margo’s lines have a smattering of pannus so she’ll be tested more frequently and definitely within a year of any breedings.

All puppies should be tested for DM if not cleared by parentage, but this only needs done once.

Now, aside from DM, the frequency of health testing may change depending on what issues may be common in your lines or if any issues are found. I would say the above is a bare minimum you should expect from ANY borzoi breeder, and depending on pedigrees I may need more to consider them responsible.

Another thing to consider, a breeder can do all the appropriate health testing at all times but it doesn’t mean anything if they continue to breed dogs that aren’t testing well, or are not working to breed away from their existing issues. There doesn’t exist a line of borzoi without SOME health issue, so it’s important to understand pedigrees and know what you’re getting into.

[buyingpuppies]

Factors to Consider When Buying Puppies

There are a lot of factors to consider when buying puppies. These include the health and temperament of the puppy. All breeds have their own specific health issues, and some are inherited. You should find a breeder that tests the dogs to prevent these conditions before buying them. Health problems can cause a lifetime of pain and avoidable expenses.

A good rule to remember when buying puppies is to see the puppy with the mother. Be wary of puppy sellers who will make up a reason not to show you the mother. They will be afraid of you getting a real mum, and will try to make excuses for it. Also, check if you can visit the puppy more than once. Some puppies can have diseases like coronavirus, which can lead to serious illness.

Before buying a puppy, you should also consider the breeder's reputation and certification. Some breeders are irresponsible and may not fix their animals. As a result, you may end up with an unfixable dog or a puppy with birth defects. The breeder may also not have conducted a background check or vaccination. Many backyard breeders also use puppies as bait dogs in dog fighting rings. Discover more here!

A pet store may claim to be a humane place to purchase puppies, but it might be buying from puppy mills. Puppy mills have poor conditions for the dogs and breed as many puppies as possible in order to sell them. Only responsible breeders can sell healthy puppies to responsible buyers. There are many ways to buy a puppy, but the best way to make sure it is a good fit for your family is to buy it from a reputable breeder. Make sure to Learn more here!

Before buying a puppy, you should visit the breeder to get to know the dog. A good breeder will be happy to meet prospective puppy buyers and introduce you to the mother and littermates. Some good breeders even invite visitors to their kennels. You can even arrange to meet the puppy's father if you have any questions.

You should also be prepared to spend a lot of time with the puppy. They need a lot of exercise and training. Moreover, they can be destructive and disruptive to your household. Buying a puppy is an expensive and serious commitment. You should be prepared to spend hours each week training and socializing your puppy.

A reputable breeder will have a contact number available for you to contact him or her. This way, you can confirm the information provided by the breeder. Also, a reputable breeder will be well educated about the breed and be able to answer your questions about the puppies. The breeder should also offer a health guarantee, ensuring that the dog is healthy.

As much as possible, you should avoid buying puppies from breeders who don't meet your own standards. This will prevent you from putting your puppy at risk of becoming a victim of a puppy scam. You might even end up with a puppy that's not healthy and has behavioral problems. Discover more facts about pitbull at http://edition.cnn.com/2015/09/12/us/new-york-pit-bull-attacks/index.html.

[followthebluebell]

asking out of genuine curiosity: what’s the problem with “adopt don’t shop”? (implied but not explained in a post you reblogged)

When it's applied to mill breeders and pet shops, I'm in complete agreement with it. If I remember right, that's what it was originally MEANT to apply to. Then it became co-opted by Animal Rights Activists, who are generally against pet ownership completely. It became a blanket statement against breeders of any sort, vilifying responsible and ethical breeders and those who purchase from them.

So, four years ago, I started looking for a prospective service dog. It was natural for me to start my search within rescues, because most of them were known to me already. I look like a pretty good applicant: I work in rescues, I specialize in handling animals with difficult temperaments, I have vet records stretching back to when I came of age (basically, I've been fully responsible for my cats' vet care since I was 18), and all of my animals have either died of old age or random chance (I've never rehomed any of my personal animals for any reason, including health issues).

But it turned out to be borderline impossible.

The fact that I was looking for a service dog prospect was an immediate disqualification for most of them. This is because a lot of dogs (especially rescue dogs) wash out of training and can't go on to become fully trained service dogs. Since most disabled people can only afford one or two dogs, most of these dogs are returned to the shelter/rescue. That knocked out about 60% of the rescues I was looking at.

Another rescue asked for an 'application fee', which smacks of a scam to me. It was around 40 dollars, but still. That's a shitty fucking thing to do. :/

Another priced their dogs around 800 dollars, which is on the low end range for popular purebred dogs from pet-quality breeders. There was no way I was going to pay 800 dollars for a dog with an unknown genetic background and no health testing if I could pay the same thing and get a dog WITH all that.

Another asked me to take pictures of my fenced in yard, including the gate and ALL the fencing. My land is 22 acres. While it IS fully fenced, many of the fences are inaccessible to me because they're on cliffs. There was no way I could physically get all the pictures.

Most require that you own a house. I rent.

Another rescue had a sneaky little addendum in their policy, stating that they can visit my home at ANY TIME without permission or knowledge and take the dog back within two weeks of adopting it. This place also had a very high adoption fee (around 500 dollars). I don't remember the exact wording, but it was something along the lines of, "You're not ADOPTING this dog. This is a temporary foster for two weeks, and the adoption fee is non-refundable if we take the dog back within those two weeks, which we may do so at any time for any reason without your knowledge or permission."

I was feeling pretty good about the next rescue, until it came out that my pet reptiles are all intact. Like... they're non-breeding. But the fact that they weren't spayed or neutered was enough, apparently, and I was denied. "Come back when they've been fixed," I was told. The fact that they're reptiles, housed separately, and literally have never made contact with each other was deemed irrelevant, as was the fact that attempting to alter a 50 gram gecko would likely kill her. It was the LOOK of things that was important, rather than the actual animal welfare.

The local poodle rescue had a waiting list of approximately 5 years.

There was no way I was going to wait that long. So I started looking at shelters. There are three in my travel radius (did I mention that, as a disabled person, my travel radius is quite small? Because it is). One was immediately knocked out because it has a long history of transphobia against me in particular. One was knocked out because it was going through a panleuk issue at the moment, so I wasn't going to risk bringing it home or to work. The third was almost completely bully breed mixes, chihuahuas, or huskies (which are all fine breeds, but not compatible with my lifestyle).

Another issue with 'adopt don't shop' is that it implies ALL rescues/shelters are equal. They aren't. I've also encountered some extremely unethical rescues who outright lie to adopters about an animals' temperament or health. I've seen rescues who actively purchase puppies from mill auctions, because demand for 'rescue purebreeds' is so high. This is especially common with cavalier spaniels and other in-demand small breeds.

I recently cut ties with a cat rescue who actively refused to report a bad breeder for animal abuse/neglect----this breeder was mass-producing cats and not socializing them or treating them for heavy health issues. Every few months, they'd turn over whatever they couldn't sell to the rescue and these cats were inevitably poorly socialized messes who couldn't even be touched (and these were cats who required a high amount of grooming). The rescue didn't want to turn the breeder in because these cats were in high demand; they were 100% sure guaranteed adoptions. People didn't care that they weren't healthy animals; they just wanted something pretty with a sob story.

Not every breeder is responsible. Not every rescue is responsible either. The saying SHOULD be 'adopt responsibly, shop responsibly'. On a purely pedantic note, you SHOULD be shopping responsibly regardless, because adopting is also shopping. You shouldn't adopt the first cute animal with a sad backstory. You need to look into everything and make sure they're the right fit for you and your life.

I fully support rescues. But I also support breeding. My goal as a rescue worker is to create a world where every animal is born with a home already waiting for them and the shelters are empty. For that, we need breeders to keep producing healthy animals.

Basically, don't vilify people who buy from responsible, ethical breeders. We have our reasons for doing so.

[doberbutts]

smokemirrorswolves replied to your post

“The rising price of puppies is so heartbreaking for a lot of people....”

@doberbutts hey, if you had time at some point, would you care to break down what exactly is reflected in the price of a purebred puppy? I think a lot of people are struggling to imagine what could cost that amount of money, me among them tbh. thank you!

Sure, though I don’t breed, so it’s very possible I might be missing something!

Cost of the litter itself:

whelping box with or without rails

pen

potty supplies for puppies- pads, litter, bags, scoopers, etc

heating pads or lamps

formula and bottles (just in case)

medications and supplements (not always needed, good to have on hand)

blankets, beds

toys

colored puppy collars for identification (not always needed)

vaccinations (at least the first one)

deworming (several)

food (for mom AND pups)

temperament testing (if the breeder does not do it themselves- and even if they do, one must learn how which usually costs $$ or time to be mentored)

if puppy culture is used, understand that it costs a lot of money to get ahold of the materials for it

even if it is not used, proper early socialization, stress response, training and drives, etc require time, money, knowledge, and equipment

at least one vet check before going home

registration with AKC

microchip (some breeders have you do it but all of my breeder puppies had this done before going home)

cropping/docking (if applicable, understand this is why dobes cost so much bc that’s $400-700 PER PUPPY unless the vet cuts you a deal for doing the whole litter)

increased water and electric and trash costs - utilities ain’t cheap

overall time spent with the puppies (most breeders if not retired take off work to whelp and raise a litter... that’s 8+ weeks of either vacation pay or no pay at all)

travel costs to and from vets, new owners, etc

Cost of PRODUCING the litter:

stud dog fee (not applicable if using their own stud)

health testing on the parents (variable, can be as low as $100 per parent or as high as several thousand, obv if they don’t own the stud they don’t pay for that)

if using live cover- either travelling to the stud or having the stud go there

if using AI- that’s already pretty expensive

C-section (if applicable, always good to have the money on hand just in case)

multiple vet visits and travel costs for the bitch (confirm pregnancy, canine STI check, making sure to breed when she’s hormonal most likely to conceive, etc)

supplements and high quality food for the bitch

medications to help induce or ease labor

treatments to help the bitch let milk down or clear an infected/impacted teat

medical supplies for the human to ensure a sanitary and safe environment to whelp (gloves etc)

Cost of the parents:

general care (food, physicals, vaccinations, etc)

titling (if applicable)

training

obtaining the dog in the first place

So what does this exactly mean? Let’s say a low-ball estimate is $8000 for the first two factors combined (so not cost of parents) (and that IS a fairly low estimate, at least for dobermans). Now let’s say that the bitch produces 8 puppies. Selling them at $1000 apiece means the breeder breaks even, and that also means time and money was actually lost as the cost sunk into the parents hasn’t been factored in yet.

Let’s say the breeder owns both parents and bought them at $1000 each. The low end of the average cost per year for dogs is $1500- so with both dogs that’s $3000 per year. Dogs should be at least two years old before breeding, so we’re at $6000 (general care) + $2000 (purchase price) if this is the first litter for both of them. Titling can really depend, some breeds title very quickly and easily for under $1000. Others take several thousands to finish. Let’s just say an incredibly conservative estimate is $500 per dog- we’re now at $9000 for the cost of the parents.

So if that breeder wants to break even, they can’t even just double the price ($2000 per puppy) because they’re still taking a $1000 loss. Now the puppies need to cost $2125.

Let’s hope a puppy doesn’t die, or that no fluke accidents or weird health concerns pop up, because things are about to get even more expensive very quickly if that happens. Let’s say the breeder wants to keep one- that means that there are actually 7 puppies that can be sold, not 8. Now the puppies have to cost roughly $2430 and there’s a very slight profit of about $10 there.

What if they don’t own both parents, just the bitch? Well that takes our estimations down by half, so now the litter cost $12500 to make. The 7 puppies can be priced all the way down to $1785 while taking a loss of a couple dollars. Oops, the stud owner wants one on top of their stud fee, make that 6 puppies- now they’re back up to over $2000 again.

Remember when I said these are low estimates? Okay, so let’s gauge high estimates:

Even with no complications the highest I’ve seen for total breeding expenses was $25000. Even if you sell all 8 puppies at cost, so a zero profit margin... that’s $3125 per puppy.

God help you, and your buyers, if your bitch whelps less than that, if there’s a complication, if for whatever reason a puppy is not sellable.

Creed’s breeder spent $10k on stud fee, AI, emergency C-section, and resulting infection cost alone. Her bitch gave her one single puppy. She usually charged $2k per puppy. Do you see the problem here?

Additionally there’s this weird like... stigma about making money breeding animals. Listen, yes, capitalism ruins everything, and the focus should be on the animals and not the amount of zeros in your bank account... but at the same time, whelping by itself is a lot of work and dogs are a fairly expensive hobby. As a dog trainer, an artist, a programmer... I demand payment and profit for my work. I cannot eat if I only break even. Yet breeders are told that it’s bad to make money off their dogs and that they have to have some other source of income. Why? There’s a line to be balanced here on getting fair payment for the amount of work they’re putting in vs pricing themselves out of the market. 

[darkwood-sleddog]

You know...this may be ~controversial~ or whatever, but I find it difficult to trust studies on the difference in dogs that are spay/neutered vs intact when said studies aren’t using dogs all of the same quality to start. Comparing the effects of something becomes messy when your starting product is not the same.

Do I believe that pediatric/early spay/neuter can have an effect? 100% absolutely. I just find it difficult to judge the accuracy of studies on this when they use a pool of dogs that, even if they are the same breed, range widely in quality. I wish these studies were done in a more comprehensive and scientific way.

For example, the Torres de la Riva study done in 2013 got all its data from UC Davis vet records. This is a study I see touted often by peers as reasons they would never spay/neuter their pet dog or to insinuate that neutering before 2-3 is just the most awful thing (care for the dog in front of you folks, many Americans are certainly not prepare to responsibly keep an intact dog and I would rather they spay/neuter at that point). All dogs were Golden Retrievers and only separated in the study by gender and age of alter. Golden Retrievers can come in a wide range of quality. In 2018 they were the 3rd most registered breed in the AKC. That’s a lot of Goldens! 

Now the 2013 study looked at the statistics for Hip Dysplasia, cranial cruciate ligament tears, lymphosarcoma, hemangiosarcoma, and mast cell tumors. According to the study, male dogs that are neutered are twice as likely to develop hip dysplasia. Hip dysplasia is incredibly common in large breeds and likely underreported in Golden Retrievers. This conclusion from the Journal of the American Veterinary Medicine Association supports the fact that one cannot go off of the OFA database to get an accurate % of dogs in a breed with HD, since the database is biased towards good results for intact dogs (poor results were not submitted a huge a majority of the time and not many early neuter dogs are tested). 

Lymphosarcoma is the third most common cancer in dogs in general and Golden Retrievers are even more likely to develop this cancer than other dogs. On average dogs develop this cancer between 6-9 years of age. Hemangiosarcoma is also a common cancer in golden retrievers (it is THIS cancer that my childhood dog died from at age 9) and typically presents in dogs older than 6 years of age. Lastly Mast Cell Tumors are one of the 4 most prevalent cancers being studied in the Golden Retriever Lifetime Study. 

What dogs are more likely to be spayed/neutered though? Pet quality and older/retired dogs. Pet dogs in the United States are overwhelmingly altered due to aggressive spay/neuter promotion to decrease the dog overpopulation. This ideology is not so prevalent in other parts of the world, yet there are few studies on the effect of intact vs. altered in populations where pet dogs are more often kept intact. Whereas breeding quality dogs in the United States are more likely to be kept intact. Retired breed quality animals are more likely to be in the “neutered later in life” category and thus skews that category to being the “safest” option since the dogs are already high quality.  

It is impossible to compare the statistics of an on average byb quality neutered dog and a high breed quality intact dog and think that it concludes neutered dogs are at such a higher risk of dysplasia. Is it likely that neutered dogs may be at risk? Certainly. I myself do believe that pediatric neuter is detrimental and can result in a rangier dog in some cases (some shelters around even neuter at 8 weeks which is sad and shocking). I would also agree in waiting after a first heat to spay since the heat cycle does trigger some development and pediatric spay can increase incontinence. But, I also find it hard to compare the instances of cancer. Breeders with dogs participating in health testing and the Golden Retriever lifetime study? Intact most likely. Dogs bred without health testing/not participating in cancer studies? Likely to be neutered pet dogs. These sort of factors are just not taken into account in these studies since purebred dogs are seen as a monolith to researchers who may or may not have any experience in the wide range of quality purebred dogs can come in. 

I find the same issue with many other studies. Dogs studied are all the same breed or a various pool of purebred statistics pulled from vet records (some studies are even just a pool of various shelter dogs), but the breed quality of the dog is not taken into account. Those of us in the responsible breeding world knows there can be a huge difference, even amongst AKC registered dogs of the same breed, in quality, structure and health. Responsible breeders doing health testing, taking their dogs to the vet on a regular basis, titling dogs in confo & sports etc. are NOT the norm. Mill dogs can be AKC registered, the BYB down the street that had puppies for the “experience” can be AKC registered. 

and that brings me to the ever facebook popular comparison photos of Intact Dogs vs Altered Dogs of the same age, often siblings. Across even responsibly bred litters of dogs, quality and type will vary greatly within many breeds. Unless these dogs started out as 8 week old puppies identical in quality in every way there is no way comparisons like this are an accurate judge of how spay/neuter will affect your dog. Lots of folks act like neutering around 1 year is pediatric and I just don’t think that is what these studies necessarily mean by early neuter.

Look at these dogs, one is intact and the other neutered at 10 months...which dog is it? Do you think the “early” neuter affected the dog’s exterior structure in any way?

Photo comparisons are also bothersome because anybody can cherry pick images to project their viewpoint:

But...what did these littermates look like as puppies? The dogs above have drastically different coat types and one is stacked correctly vs one which is not stacked the same (the below dog).

People could easily use Sigurd vs his brother Witus, who remains intact and just sired his first litter of puppies, as an example of the effects of neutering. Sigurd was neutered at almost a year old. However, it would be incorrect. Since Sigurd and Witus, although both white in color, have always been structurally very different. 

Sigurd:

Witus:

You could say that Sigurd got too tall, lacks bone & width etc etc. But here is the thing. He’s always been tall and he’s always lacked bone, examples:

Witus (L) & Sigurd (R).

Sigurd 7.5 weeks:

Witus 7.5 weeks:

The structure of these dogs is not remotely similar, Sigurd’s structure did not change after he was neutered, he did not get taller, just wider, the way dogs normally grow. Idk thanks for coming to my rant, I think way too may people take these studies very literally and insinuate that they cover all breeds of dogs.

[bagelhound]

Said coworker also told me I'm uneducated and selfish for getting my next dog from a responsible breeder. This is the same woman who told me that I shouldn't cry over Leo because "He's just a dog", that I spent too much money on trying to save him on his last night, that breeding a bitch twice a year for all her life is okay because, again "It's just a dog" and women also used to have 20 children back in the day.

But no, I'm the cruel one. Someone who worked at a shelter, still walks dogs for them and donates. Someone who literally asked the shelter to contact him when they have a beagle or beagle mix. I did more for animals in need of homes than she ever will and saying I don't actually care about dogs is an incredibly rude assumption.

When I tried to explain that responsible breeders don't add to the shelter population and that we wouldn't have dogs without them she told me that we will always have dogs because people in Romania and Sicily abandon their dogs and they breed freely like? Yeah, but that isn't ideal. And saying that should be our only source of dogs is as bad as supporting backyard breeders and puppy mills in my honest opinion. Like yeah those existing dogs need homes, but there has to be another solution than just saying "It just is that way so all we should have are those dogs". Health testing and structure is important in dogs. In a perfect world all breeding stock would be health and temperament tested ready to go into loving homes.

She also brought up the overbreeding argument and that "Experts" agree with it.( Experts in what? Clipping toe nails? Cutting onions without crying? ) and named Pugs and Boxers as an example like... those are the only dog breeds that exist. I also don't like them and think Brachycephaly is absolutely horrible. It's why I'm not getting a brachycephalic breed, it's that simple.

There are good and bad breeders for literally every breed, grouping them all together is such bullshit, but yeah, I'm obviously the uneducated one for getting the right dog for my lifestyle. 🙄

[mypetshopworld]

Ho Ho Ho it's Christmas Time. The cruellest thing you can do on Christmas. A Dog is not a Toy. Why it is a bad idea to give an animal as a Christmas Gift.

The unwanted Christmas Gift we all been there.

Christmas Time is a hectic time, and everyone rushes to get the presents and things ready to spend time with family and friends. 

It is a time where thousands of Christmas present will be returned the next day. We all been there. Receiving a Gift we didn't really want. An embarrassing pullover from Aunt Megan, an ugly pair of socks, a tie or a useless electronic gadget. All of those items are easily returned or just put in a drawer and forget about it. Some even end up in the daily trash.

Giving a pet as a Christmas Gift. A bad idea for both the future pet owner and the pet.

Giving a living animal to someone and the person does not really want it or is prepared for it, that is the moment when it becomes disastrous. After all, it is an animal with feelings, it is breathing and deserves to receive love. According to ASPCA In the days, weeks, and months following the festivities, animal shelters all over the world are inundated with animals who were given as a gift. I have to say those are the lucky ones, not every pet will be brought to a shelter. Some will be abandoned in the woods or beside the road and left to fight for themselves. Some will die, starve to death or get hit by a car. Some guardians will advertise and look for a good home, the danger here is that they might get in the wrong hands and are used for dog fights or for animal testing. Pet Shops advertise their pets and some people get supercharged with the idea of giving a puppy or kitten as a Christmas gift.

It sounds great and cute thinking of the surprise and the face including the tears. I don't want to spoil your Christmas present but giving a pet as a Christmas present is a not a good idea.

Let me tell you why it is not a good idea?

Having a pet and inviting it to become part of the family is a family decision. Not a spontaneous one it is a decision you want to have discussed and thought through. There are much more things to consider as just the video you can upload and share with your social media tribe and friends. A dog is not a toy, nor is a cat, a toy. Those are animals living beings, and yes, they do have feelings.  The internet is full of lovely videos and photos of puppies. Kittens packed in Santa cloth and puppies with Santa hats coming out of boxes. The reactions of those who receive them. You can find thousands of videos where joy comes into a person's life, and it is accompanied by happy tears. 

Why should an animal not to be considered as a gift? 

After all, we are talking about a living being and an animal that requires care and attention. The Shelters getting full after the Christmas months with animals what are given as a gift, but when people realize what kind of work and commitment is involved, they give them up. I do not say all are like this and some people are happy and commit to a lifetime keeping the pet.

What a lot of friends do not realize when they give you a pet as a Christmas Gift that the cute puppy needs training, and will do a lot of mischievous things. Without proper training and care, the puppy can become a dog that is not listening to the owner or becomes aggressive. Same goes for the aquatic part like turtles they are so cute when you buy them so tiny and small.   Unfortunately, they grow quickly out of the small Aquarium and without a proper filter system, the water becomes quickly dirty and smells. That is why many end up in the local River system.  Is it right to give pets as a gift for Christmas? We should always keep in mind some critical points before considering giving a pet as a Christmas gift. 

A Pet is a lifetime commitment and a loyal family member

Having an animal is a decision that can change a person's life a lot. It's a long-term commitment. You can't change them, you can't give them back. That's why before giving an animal to someone else, we must make sure that the person understands the responsibilities to have an animal in their life.  Even more important are they up for this challenge and are they living in an environment where they can accommodate a cat or a dog. ( check out our free dog breed calculator. Choose the right dog for you ) Therefore, the person should have verbalized the desire to adopt. Also, we must be clear that the animal gets the time and space it requires. 

Adoption is a great solution to help abandoned animals. 

Theoretically, the more animals adopted, the better for them, for shelters and for the families. Is that so? More or less. Statistics show that during Christmas or holidays, the abandonment rates increases. This is why some associations and NGOs temporarily closed adoptions on Christmas Eve.  It is essential to highlight that in the spirit of Christmas, there are non-certified breeders that sell pets before they are ready to be taken from the mom.  Those pets come without their proper vaccinations, and without worrying about their welfare. This will obviously translate into behavioural issues and health problems of the animals.  Most of the Pets bought on the streets will die as they are breed for business and not for the well being of a Pet.  "Pets should not be considered a commodity."

Download my Christmas Gift for you. 3 Free Ebooks. All you need to know about Pets. Cats. Dogs.

For the love of Dogs For the love of Cats For the love of Pets

Puppies and Kids are great together but consider a dog or a cat is not a toy. 

There are many cases of children who wish to have a dog as a pet animal, and there is really nothing wrong with that. It is one of the best things that can happen to a child having a dog or cat around and grow up with it.  Who hasn't heard that speech saying if you have a dog, you'll have to take care of him? However, it is essential to remember that they are children and that they cannot be 100% responsible for a dog. It is, in the end, the responsibility of the parent.  When adopting an animal, parents should be aware that it is their responsibility, and the fact that the child does not care for the dog is no excuse for abandonment. It is a family decision I can not stretch it often enough. Pets, in my opinion, should only be given as a gift by parents to the kids, at least they have put some thought into it. 

Pets as a Christmas Gift. Consider all changes and challenges. 

*If you are determined to give a pet to make a person happy, old or young consider different factors.  *Is there enough space for the pet?  *Can the person or family accommodate a pet? *How many hours a day is a pet alone. If more than 8 hours do not give a pet as a gift.  *Is the person or family able to accommodate the vet and food expenses?  *Make sure the person is not allergic to pets.  *Does the person have experience with pets?  *If the pet is a dog, is the person or family able to walk with the dog regular?  There are a lot of things to consider and please think before you make the decision to give someone a pet as a Christmas gift. Understand the pet like a dog or cat will be hurting if it is returned after Christmas.  Pets have feelings and emotion the same as you. It will not understand why you leave it alone in a shelter and abandon it. If you want to give a pet as a gift, you assure that the person is ready for the commitments and responsibilities. 

It's time to think about the pet's arrival at the new home.

If it's a puppy or a kitten, you should remember that they will be separated from their mother and siblings.

They will come to a home full of people and stimuli that will probably make it more than uncomfortable for the pet. The first night it will cry and call out for the siblings and the mom. You might not get much sleep. You must have a bed or a playpen prepared in a quiet place in the house where they can sleep and be away from excessive noise and groping. In short, a comfortable place to hide.  You should also have toys and food. An alternative way to avoid the stress of arriving at a new home is to surprise the person with an adoption certificate. This is a good way for the future pet owner to be ready. The adaptation will be less stressful, and the future owner will have time to choose a pet, accessories and bed himself. The future Pet owner can also prepare himself or the family mentally for the new member. 

Consider adoption before you buy from a Breeder.  

If you buy from a Breeder, please make sure it is a certified Breeder and not an illegal Breeder who breeds pets for the sake of money.  Choosing adoption over buying is a wise decision.  In addition to being a much cheaper option, we'll stop financing illegal breeders and avoid indiscriminate dog breeding.  You will also save an abandoned and homeless pet and give space in the shelter for another pet to arrive.  In 2018 this video footage went viral RSPCA posted it. Everyone was so touched even Snoop Dogg and Andrew Neil offered to take the dog in. But if that person's wish is to have a specific breed, we recommend you to look for a kennel that has all the papers.  It will give a guarantee that it is reproducing healthy pets with specific veterinary tests, and that has a hygienic space that favours the welfare of the puppies. 

You will be surprised how many dog breeds are abandoned every day, and you can find in a shelter. Go on the internet and look around in animal shelters near your area. I got our Doberman and German Shepard from a shelter. Alone in the US, there are yearly around 1.6 Million Animals euthanized. 670.000 Dogs and 860.000 Cats. Both of my dogs have been Christmas gifts and sent to the shelter with only 5 months old. I guess the owners did not consider how big they get, and that they will chew and destroy in their puppyhood a lot of things they can get their teeth on.  Remember that many pet breeds are also abandoned and need a home. In a pet who comes from an animal shelter, you find a loyal companion.  We hope that all this information will help you evaluate whether or not it is positive to give pets as a Christmas Gift.  And how you can assure the pet has found a family or owner for life.  If you liked my blog Ho Ho Ho it's Christmas Time. The cruellest thing you can do on Christmas. A Dog is not a Toy. Why it is a bad idea to give an animal as a Christmas Gift. Please like and share with family and friends. Visit our Facebook, Pinterest and Twitter page.  I wish you a wonderful a festive Season. 

My Christmas Gift to you. 3 Free ebooks instant download. All you need to know about Pets, Dogs, Cats

For the love of cats click here For the love of dogs click here For the love of pets click here All yours Melanie  Source Information https://www.aspca.org/animal-homelessness/shelter-intake-and-surrender/pet-statistics Approximately 6.5 million companion animals enter U.S. animal shelters nationwide every year. Of those, approximately 3.3 million are dogs and 3.2 million are cats.  We estimate that the number of dogs and cats entering U.S. shelters annually has declined from approximately 7.2 million in 2011.  The biggest decline was in dogs (from 3.9 million to 3.3 million).Each year, approximately 1.5 million shelter animals are euthanized (670,000 dogs and 860,000 cats).  The number of dogs and cats euthanized in U.S. shelters annually has declined from approximately 2.6 million in 2011.  This decline can be partially explained by an increase in the percentage of animals adopted and an increase in the number of stray animals successfully returned to their owners.Approximately 3.2 million shelter animals are adopted each year (1.6 million dogs and 1.6 million cats).About 710,000 animals who enter shelters as strays are returned to their owners. Of those, 620,000 are dogs and only 90,000 are cats. Read the full article

[maisietheyellowlab]

My Dog Breed Selection Process

Yesterday I got this message from an anon:

“I saw your getting a Koolie!! Nice!! They're such pretty dogs. And actually if you don't mind I have a question for you? Feel free to not answer. But you have a lab and are getting a koolie, two different breeds obviously, so do you have any tips for someone trying to find a breed? It'll be my first purebred dog and going to the shelter is hard enough because all the dogs are so cute so how do you narrow down the list for the perfect dog? Idk if you had a list - but how'd you decide on a koolie?”

and I quickly realized this was gonna be a long post, so here it is. This whole thing:

This is the general procedure that brought me to my breed choices:

First come up with a list of “must haves” “nice to haves” and “must not haves” for the type of dog you want (size, coat type, shedding, energy level, trainability,..) (as @katieisstilltumbling / @winedogs already pointed out in the original ask).

Be very honest with yourself and consider that while the dog has to be a good fit for you, you have to be a good fit for the dog as well!

Then go through a list of dog breeds and/or take a few “what’s the right breed for you” type quizzes OR if you really like a dog sport check out the breeds that usually do well in that sport (e.g. mushing: Huskies, Alaskan Malamutes,..)

→ see which of those you like and check their breed descriptions

→ check blogs, forums, videos, fb groups of owners and breeders of that breed, see if you still like what you see

→ if there are any events where you might be able to meet the breed irl (dog shows, trials, breed meet ups…) go there and talk to owners! (this step is not always possible but it’s very helpful if you can do it!)

→ check if the dogs of that breed fit your “must haves” and “must not haves”

→ look up breeders

→ contact a breeder, ask about the breed, their dogs, what kind of owner they like for their dogs, ask if you can meet them and their dogs

→ when you meet irl, see if you like the breeder and their dogs

→ if you’re now sure you want a dog of that breed, tell the breeder you’re interested in getting a puppy from their upcoming litter

→ be patient and respectful

→ get puppy

→ done!

So, here’s an example of my personal breed-selection journey:

Dog breed selection process 1 - Labrador Retriever:

The first step at all was trying to think of the dog breeds I'm generally drawn to/think they're cute and looking them up, checking out youtube videos where owners talk in depth about the breed and being real honest with myself if the breed would fit into my lifestyle. For example, I always liked Cocker Spaniels, Golden Retrievers, Border Collies, Labs and Dalmatians.

Second step was going thru breed lists online and checking them out, trying to see if there's more breeds I like, but maybe haven't seen or heard of before.

Third thing I did, was take some Dog Breed Selector quizzes online, to see if I'd like any of the dogs that would come up as recommended to me. Ofc this is not to be take too seriously, bc you can be a perfect home for a border collie, but the quiz results won't match you to Border Collies, just because you didn't tick the box that said »I have an enormous yard.«

So at that point I had somewhat of an idea what I would want in a dog, and I had a list of traits in my mind that I applied to my top ~10 breeds.

It was something like this:

Must haves:

Medium size

Tolerates cold&hot weather

Easy coat maintenance

Easy to train --> biddable or will to please

Medium/high energy

Suitable for hikes&canine sports

Playful

Good around older children

Good for first time owners

Not very sensitive

Okay with being left alone for a few hours regularly/not prone to separation anxiety

Good with people and dogs

Average lifespan longer than 10 years/as long as possible

Breeder in my country

Cute!

Nice to haves:

Doesn’t shed a lot

More of a quiet type of dog

Litter in the next 6 months

Likes water

Longer than average lifespan

Must not haves:

Guards people/property

Very large or very small

Prone to health issues

Very independent

Very sensitive

High maintenance coat

Prone to DA or HA

Pure working line

Ideas: Australian Shepherd, Toller, Border Collie, Golden Retriever, Labrador Retriever, Brittany

I started looking for breeders of those breeds in my area and looked through all the websites I could find. I looked at their dogs, their breeding practices, the offspring and of course, litter plans.

At that point I felt like a balanced Aussie might be the way to go, so I contacted and met up with a breeder. Turns out we didn't really click and the way that she described the breed and her personal requirements for her puppies' owners left me feeling very overwhelmed, so I decided agains getting a dog of hers. I looked at some other breeders websites, but the more I researched the more I also started realizing that an Aussie might not the the best choice for me any the household I was living in at that time.

So here I learned a very important lesson. Not only do you have to find a suitable dog, you also have to find a suitable breeder. A responsible breeder will stay in contact with you for the res tof the dog's life, try to point you in the right direction, will be a source of help regarding the dog's development, health and training, so you need like them and they need to like you back. So I added another bullet point to my puppy search list:

a breeder that is helpful, friendly, nice to be around

Dog breed 1, try 1: Aussie →  not a good fit.

I eventually narrowed my selection down to Goldens and Labs, because they were generally easier for first time owners than the rest of the breeds, less prone to sensitivity and there were announced litters in the next few months.

In the end I went for a Lab, because they seemed a little more sturdy and had slightly less health issues, as far as my research showed. Then I contacted two breeders, I think, and I went with the one that felt more right. Oh and also, I thought the parents of the litter looked better, bc that's honestly a big factor too. You're gonna live with this dog for 10+ years, why not choose the one that fits your criteria as much as possible.

So that was it, this is how I chose Maisie's breeder. She's great, helped me a LOT during the first few months when I needed it most, and we're still in touch, I visit her every year. It feels like she's my aunt or smth, she's really nice.

Dog breed 1, try 2: Lab → WIN :D

Dog breed selection process 2 - Australian Koolie:

The second time around I approached the breed selection a little differently, since I had already met more breeds of dogs irl by then and also had an idea of what I’d like in a second dog from experience with Maisie. A part of my decision to go for a herding dog came from what I want to do with them - I want to try more canine sports that include jumping, so a dog with a lighter build and more will to please. That kind of dog will enjoy those activities more and be able to do them more safely than Maisie.

Must haves:

Medium size, lighter build

Tolerates cold&hot weather

Easy coat maintenance

Will to please

Medium/high energy

Suitable for hikes&canine sports

Suitable for jumpy sports

Playful

Okay if sensitive, would prefer less sensitive tho

Okay with being alone for a few hours if needed

Good with people and dogs

Isn’t bothered by obnoxious Lab behavior very much

Average lifespan longer than 10 years/as long as possible

Working/ working x mixed line

Cute

Breeder in Europe

A helpful, friendly breeder

Nice to haves:

Doesn’t shed a lot

Not noise sensitive

Not very sensitive in general

More of a quiet type of dog

Litter in the next 6 months (hahahahhaha I’ve been waiting for a little over 2 years at this point)

Likes water

Likes snow

Likes toys and food as rewards

Longer than average lifespan

Must not haves:

Guards people/property

Very large or very small

Prone to health issues

Very independent

High maintenance coat

Prone to DA or HA

Pure show line

Ideas: Aussie, Border Collie, Rough Collie, English Springer Spaniel, Welsh Springer Spaniel, Toller, Koolie

I’d met enough Aussies by that point to realize they weren’t exactly what I wanted in a dog, but I still really liked Border Collies. This time around I wasn’t intimidated by higher energy level anymore, but I was still a bit worried about sensitivity and the fact that most BCs I’ve met low key hated Maisie. There were a few who liked her, but many didn’t so I kept looking for a better fit (I thought it wouldn’t be fair for the new dog to be stressed by Maisie just existing and being herself..it wouldn’t be fair to either). I was considering Tollers too, but there weren’t any litters announced at all, and I knew of literally one breeders, so I kept on looking. I had a hard time with finding Rough Collies without extreme show coat and had trouble finding non extremely showy Springers around here as well.

I think I found out about Koolies when I was going through herding dogs, and it was a new breed I’ve never heard of or seen before. They were rarely included bc I was mostly looking at very generic lists I think. I read the description, watched a few videos and really really liked them. They had all the traits of aussies and BCs I liked, but weren’t as sensitive as BCs generally are or as prone to guarding as Aussies tend to be. I found two breeders in driving distance, contacted both, one was kinda weird with replies and said she doesn’t want to sell pups outside her country, but the other breeder was very nice and helpful in her replies and that’s how I started talking to the breeder of my future puppy! I met her and two of her dogs about two years ago and loooved them. They also aced the “can tolerate a playful (obnoxious) Maisie” test, the main thing BCs struggled with.

So unfortunately I couldn’t get a puppy from the two litters that were born in 2017 and 2018 bc my life circumstances weren’t suitable for a puppy at the time, but now I am READY and basically just waiting for the puppy to be born sometime this year.

Dog breed 2, try 1: Koolie → win!

[controversial-canine-topics-blog]

Adopt Don’t Shop is hurting its own cause.

I believe that the adopt don’t shop movement is hurting its own cause. Here are three of my reasons to argue this point.

1. By banning and silencing breeders, they have given voices to backyard breeders and puppy mills. Where there is a huge lack of education on how to find a breeder and what to look for in a breeder, the adopt dont shop movement is pushing for ignorance in the common person. Someone who is uninterested in adopting will just go buy a dog from a backyard breeder or a puppy mill without knowing why it’s a problem. Education is SO important and knowledge is a weapon. 

2. They’re killing off good breeds. By trying to make adoption the only option, they are only supporting dogs with ill genes, temperament, and health. This would be a huge issue for someone who needs a high quality dog. Anyone who needs/wants a high quality dog, is often blamed, shamed, and attacked for doing so. 

3. They are attacking dog lovers. Dog breeders, people who buy from breeders, people who volunteer at rescues/shelters, and people who adopt/rescue all have one thing in common. WE ALL LOVE DOGS.  All these people are working towards the same cause, and that is finding good dogs good homes… and yet there is a huge divide between the two. If the groups united and worked together, a lot would get done and more problems could be solved.

4. The movement is only fixing the problem from surface level. Imagine there are people in a boat in the ocean, and all they have is a bucket. The boat just so happens to have a hole, and the only way to not sink is to endlessly dump water back out. That’s what the #adoptdontshop movement is doing, it is just trying to fix the problem as it comes in. Breeders never even send out a boat that could rupture, they only produce good boats. They fix and prevent the problem before it happens.

While I understand that people who support the adopt don’t shop movement are at a good heart and trying to support a compassionate cause, they are hurting the bigger picture, and in turn being part of something worse. Instead, let's all rally around #adoptORshopresponsibly. Let us all spread TRUTH and try to educate. This is what will save dogs, not yelling at people for buying a dog. 

The following Quotes are all from https://bigdogmom.com/adoptdontshop/ I recommend giving the article a read as there are lots of helpful links in the article, as well as many more points+ info that I hadn’t included here.

Disregards Generosity

I volunteered at a local no-kill animal shelter all four years of high school, worked morning shift (3-7am) at the Veterinary school in college, and have spent the last 9 years volunteering and contributing to Power Paws Assistance Dogs and Arizona Animal Welfare League. I have had the pleasure of owning both purebred dogs and mixed breed dogs in my life, those that were bought and those that were rescued.  Every one of those dogs was a blessing in my life.

In addition, most reputable breeders I know rescue dogs and support rescue organizations as a part of their civic responsibility and love for their breed.

The judgement that is implied with #AdoptDontShop seemingly discounts all of that generosity.

I did shop. I will continue to shop for the dog of my choice.

It is possible to shop without hypocrisy or homage while supporting outstanding rescue and service organizations like Power Paws and AAWL.

Reputable Breeders are NOT the Problem 

Part of my issue with this hashtag has to do with the word “shop.” When I see or hear that word in reference to a puppy I immediately picture sickly puppies playing on shredded newspaper behind the glass in a mall pet store – a sight that infuriates and saddens me.

But the word “shop” in this context is defined as any means of purchasing a puppy, which wrongfully includes reputable breeders.

Reputable breeders are NOT the problem, puppy mills and back yard breeders (BYB) are.

For those of you who see no difference between the two, I respectfully ask for you to keep reading.

Reputable breeders screen their puppy buyers to ensure they are the best home, they perform health testing (eyes, hips, elbows, DNA, etc.) to safeguard against genetic disease, they sell on a contract with an obligation to take the puppy back at any point in his lifetime, and their passion is what drives them in everything they do for the breed they love.

Put simply, when you S.H.O.P. with a reputable breeder, you get Screening, Health testing, Obligation, and Passion.

Clever acronym aside, people who are buying a puppy from a reputable breeder are not window shopping. They are making a lifelong commitment to a new member of the family.

To lump all forms of acquisition by purchase under the umbrella term “shop” is both unfair and ignorant.

Reputable Breeders REDUCE the Number of Dogs Needing Rescue

They do this in three ways:

A reputable breeder limits the number of puppies they produce, with many only having one or two litters per year or less. To illustrate, once I found the breeder I wanted a puppy from, it took me 5 years to finally bring Junior home.

A reputable breeder screens buyers to ensure they will be the best home for the puppy, for the life of the dog.

And lastly, a reputable breeder contractually commits to taking back any dog they produce for any reason at any time. Every contract I have ever signed for a puppy has stated that the breeder has the first right of refusal if the owner can’t keep the dog.

[probablyafish]

The problem with Pit Bulls

This is not an anti-pitbull post. As soon as any dog expert brings up this topic, people seem to either ignore it or shit all over you. This is purely educational, because people are still being attacked by pitbulls and they still don’t understand why. The whole “bad owners, not bad dogs” movement has, in my opinion, created more of a disaster for the breed than good. That movement has given people the mindset that you can erase hundreds of years of genetic conditioning with extreme amounts of affection. When all that affection does is make dogs that are predisposed to aggression, very anxious.  

First of all, the number one thing that people don’t seem to realize, is that the term “Pit Bull” is used to describe a mixed breed dog of bully breed origin. 

This is the only breed that can be rightfully called a “Pit Bull”, the American Pit Bull Terrier. Any other breed than this is not a pit bull. 

This is the breed that was created in England to bait bulls. This is the breed that was created with such aggression by breeding dogs with the most dominant and aggressive traits, that it would continue fighting even with severe injuries. This is the breed that is is directly dangerous (that is if they are pure). They were bred by crossing the Olde English Terrier, with the bulky and already dangerous Old English Bulldog. 

After bull baiting was outlawed, they were brought over to America for dog fighting, protection, and cattle driving (even though underground dog fighting rings still exist). Pure APBTs are nearly impossible to keep together without dominance issues. However, just because these dogs are genetically aggressive, does not mean they can’t be kept as companions in stress free households.

As long as the owner knows the breed history, handles the dog safely, gives them the much needed exercise, and gives them plenty of safe socialization, they can keep their aggression from developing into adulthood. This breed is very quick to revert back through stress and lack of exercise, which is where bites and attacks stem from, because dogs today rarely get enough stimulation or proper training. This breed is not for the unmotivated, and should not be in a household with children, as children produce a high energy that disturbs dogs. Pure coat colors are tan and white, or brindle. 

Other bully breeds that get mistaken for the APBT include:  The American Staffordshire Terrier

This is a breed that is linked genetically to the APBT, as it is a byproduct of cross breeding it for more strength, body mass, relaxed face, and coat color. However, in America, this breed had more use with hunting, farm life, and guarding, instead of blood sports. This stimulation through the breed’s development over a hundred years created a dog with a much more sociable and family oriented demeanor. With less of an ability to become aggressive through stress and lack of stimulation. Pure coat colors include everything from tan and white, heavy brindle, to grey and white. 

The Staffordshire Bull Terrier

A much smaller version of previous “Pit Bull” breeds, this dog was bred specifically for companionship. It’s size and genetically friendly disposition, made it a poor hunter and guard. After the Pit Bull Terrier made its way into America for dog fighting and farming, breeders in Britain began out crossing lines with friendlier dogs to create a less intimidating and more sociable dog. In the mid 1930′s, it was recognized as a separate bully breed. Pure coat colors include grey, black and white. 

The American Bully

This is a disaster dog, as there are so many amature breeders trying them for the most bulk and muscle regardless of temperament and genetics. They were originally a Staffordshire Bull Terrier crossed with more bulky breeds such as mastiffs and American Bulldogs. They come in M, L, XL, and XXL sizes, which given their body structure and weight, makes them very susceptible to joint damage and heart failure at XL and XXL sizes. 

Hulk, the “pit bull” is the most commonly known XXL American Bully, even though his neglectful breeders label him as an American Pit Bull Terrier for publicity, which gives people the false understanding that the APBT can reach 175 lbs of (overweight) muscle. 

Of course your little pibble isn’t aggressive, he’s not a pure American Pit Bull Terrier. Of course those dogs you saw on The Dodo’s friendly pit bulls videos are not aggressive, because they are mixes from bully origin, with random traits from random breeds.

The yearly dog bite statistics

This article from 2006 says:

“A review of 82 dog bite cases at a level 1 trauma center where the breed of dog was identified concludes that attacks by pit bulls are associated with higher morbidity rates, higher hospital charges, and a higher risk of death than are attacks by other breeds of dogs.

Merritt Clifton, editor of Animal People, has conducted an unusually detailed study of dog bites from 1982 to the present. (Clifton, Dog attack deaths and maimings, U.S. & Canada, September 1982 to November 13, 2006; click here to read it.) The Clifton study show the number of serious canine-inflicted injuries by breed. The author's observations about the breeds and generally how to deal with the dangerous dog problem are enlightening. According to the Clifton study, pit bulls, Rottweilers, Presa Canarios and their mixes are responsible for 74% of attacks that were included in the study, 68% of the attacks upon children, 82% of the attacks upon adults, 65% of the deaths, and 68% of the maimings. In more than two-thirds of the cases included in the study, the life-threatening or fatal attack was apparently the first known dangerous behavior by the animal in question. Clifton states:

If almost any other dog has a bad moment, someone may get bitten, but will not be maimed for life or killed, and the actuarial risk is accordingly reasonable. If a pit bull terrier or a Rottweiler has a bad moment, often someone is maimed or killed--and that has now created off-the-chart actuarial risk, for which the dogs as well as their victims are paying the price.”

I recommend reading up on genetics and traits according to the KennelClub

“How a dog looks and behaves is determined by a combination of the environment it lives in, the environment it has grown up in and its genetics. Environmental factors could include a dog’s diet, how much exercise it gets or the levels of hormones in the uterus it was raised in when it was an embryo. A dog’s genetics are determined before its birth and are the only way in which characteristics can be passed from parent to child. For example, a dog’s coat can be influenced by what it eats, sunlight, time of year, how short it is trimmed etc., but none of these factors will impact the coat of the puppies it has in the future, while its genes on the other hand will.”

We have to face it. As much as we hate to admit it, we are putting this breed further and further into disaster by allowing inexperienced and neglectful dog owners to breed these dogs, and pass them out to owners who aren’t willing to work with them, or just want them as a guard. Majority of dogs in the U.S. don’t get nearly enough stimulation for their breed level, and it leads to the dog getting pent up. If you walk your dog every day and feed them a good quality food, good job, you are doing it right. 

Story time! For example: Someone buys an AmStaff (or what he believes) pup from a poor breeder. The owner takes the dog out all the time as a puppy, mostly for attention. They start working 8-5 and are too tired when they get home to take the dog for a walk. They live in a small townhouse with a small yard. The dog then starts chewing, and then ripping open the couch. The owner is stressed from work, and comes home to see the dog misbehaving. He yells and smacks the dog on the butt. The dog gets stressed because he is only trying to release his energy. 

This happens several times. Eventually the dog is so unstable and goes savage when he sees strangers. The owner decides to breed his dog. He does not know that genetic testing is a thing you should do. His dog is overweight. Because he bought her from a poor breeder, she inherited the genes for hypothyroidism and PRA, and passes it on to her pups. He breeds her with a friend’s “pit bull mix” and creates a lineage of pups who not only inherited the unstable traits of one parent, but also the poor random non-pit bull genes from the mixed parent. If that pit mix is part APBT, you have a dog that can snap at any moment even with the smallest amount of stress. All it takes is a child laying on that dog when it doesn’t want to be bothered, or if you ignore the warning signs. 

Because you don’t know what the other breeds in that mix are, you are going to get pups with random traits. They could be aggressive, hyperactive, stubborn, herders, skittish, etc. 3 of the 6 pups develop hypothyroidism because both parents were carriers. The pups are all prone to aggression more than a normal AmStaff now because the parents were unstable pit mixes, and will need a lot more training to keep it in check. Future generations and mixes will now inherit the traits from these breeds. 

This is how it starts. Majority of “Pit Bull” backyard breeding in the U.S. is done by low income households in poor neighborhoods. These types of people are unable to feed their dogs a high quality grain free diet, and usually give them minimal exercise. They are usually guard dogs. Then they breed the dogs with unstable and mixed traits, and sell them to make a living. This goes on and on, creating generation after generation of dogs with an aggressive disposition, and mixed personalities. Most of which are rehomed or dumped at shelters, and the cycle continues.

No one stops these backyard breeders from breeding. It wouldn’t be so bad if they DNA tested their dogs, got registered, health tested, and then bred them only once a year during season. However, mixed pit bulls are the most backyard bred dog in the world, because of their naturally aggressive/dominant disposition; how quick they are to show it when chained on outside as a guard. 

The “bad people, not bad dogs” movement markets on this too. Majority of the people who advocate for this, don’t even know the difference between bully breeds, and protest by walking through the city with their mixed pit bulls on leashes. The same mixed pits who can be genetically predisposed to aggression thanks to poor breeding and lack of knowledge. 

Regardless of what bully breed it is, they all stem from the same story. In order to maintain a healthy companionship, the owner must be fully aware of that breed’s history and not disregard it because they are part of the “bad people not bad dogs” movement. We don’t forget that Siberian Huskies were once agile sled pullers, or that Border Collies were bred for herding sheep, so why would we forget that the APBT was bred for killing? Yes the APBT is a dangerous breed. The same as German Shepherds, Chihuahuas, Dalmatians, Tibetan Mastiffs, Dogos, Kangals, Chow Chows, Rottweilers, Dobermans, Jack Russel Terriers, Siberian Huskies, Dachshunds, etc. 

The only way to keep bully breeds from getting aggressive, attacking, and harming their reputation even further, is to ban together and abolish backyard breeding. Make it so that the only way to get a pure Amstaff or APBT, is by certifying that you are physically able to train it, socialize it, walk it every day, and understand the repercussions for crossing the bullies. Make it so that the only places to get a pup are from registered responsible breeders who have certification that their dogs are pure and within healthy breed standards. 

It’s not shocking to me when a I hear about more and more pit bull attacks. They are the most commonly backyard bred and mixed dog in the hands of people who can’t care for them properly. You are taking the aggressive APBT and tossing it’s genes in with the innocent AmStaff or other Bully, or even a random breed, and creating a lineage that can’t help but feel the instinct to attack. We are allowing dogs to be mixed and bred in the millions each year with unstable genetics and personality. 

Bullies can be great dogs if we take great care of them and give them the stimulation they need. If we ban backyard breeding, and enforce a spay/neuter law for pet owners who aren’t registered breeders; we can empty shelters, keep pets out of the hands of animal abusers, and keep each breed’s traits where they should be. 

[jotunheimboerboels]

How to Tell If a Dog Breeder is Responsible?

Many of us want to find that breeder that will always be there when we need their help or to provide us with helpful tips about raising our puppy properly. While there are such breeders, it is harder to find them than you might think.

There are numerous ways of finding breeders nowadays and one of the most popular ways is through the Internet especially since many breeders list their kennels and breeder information on different dog/kennel club websites and dog breeder directories. As a result, our search may result in dozens of breeders in our area, but are they all responsible and how do we know that?

It is very important to find a responsible dog breeder if you want to have a happy and healthy dog and and build a long trusting relationship with the breeder. There are many breeders out there that breed for money only and do not care about the well being of their dogs. These breeders are called puppy mills. Their main concern is to produce as many litters as possible and sell the puppies to anyone with money in their wallet. They do not care about what the buyer will do with that puppy or what will happen if the puppy gets sick. These types of breeders are irresponsible and you should stay away from them even if they price their puppies much lower than other breeders. Know more here Tennessee Boerboel

So you ask, what makes a breeder responsible? Here are some points you should consider when choosing the breeder from whom to purchase a puppy:

First step, make sure the breeder is registered with AKC or CKC. Check how many litters the breeder produces per year. Anyone having more than 2 litters would be considered a warning sign! Check how many dog breeds the breeder is breeding. Anyone with more than 2 dog breeds would be considered a warning sign! Ask how old is the Dam and the Sire. If they are too young or too old, this is not responsible breeding by any means. Too young, would be any dog younger than 2 years. Too old, would be any dog that is more than 7 years old. Ask the breeder to show you their contract. If they offer no contracts, stay away! Ask the breeder what health testing they do on their dogs and puppies and how often. Some breeds require specific types of testing since they can be more prone to certain disorders. If they do not perform the tests necessary and provide proof for those tests, stay away from that breeder! Ask the breeder if they provide a warranty or guarantee on the puppy with a signed contract. If not, your best decision would be to look for a puppy elsewhere. Ask the breeder if they show their dogs and what titles they have won. If they show their dogs, this is a good sign but this does not mean they are responsible. Also, check what clubs they are members of and what is the code of ethics for each of those clubs. Ask the breeder if they perform temperament tests on their dogs and if they have completed any obedience training. Ask the breeder who are the parents of the puppy you wish to acquire. If they do not want to tell you, stay away! You should also be able to see the parents. Before getting the puppy, go and visit the breeder. Get to know them and their kennel. If they do not provide this option, this is a warning sign! Puppy's parents should be free of any genetic anomalies. A responsible breeder will place the puppy in their new home when it is 7-8 weeks old. Do not make purchases online, make sure you visit the breeder and see the puppy in person, not just through online pictures! A responsible breeder will take your puppy back if the puppy develops health issues and you cannot take care of the puppy. This should be in the contract! Just because you are getting a "pet dog", does not mean the above rules should be broken! Pet or no pet, you still have to make sure the puppy is healthy and free of behavioral problems.

[darkwood-sleddog]

Wow, thanks for sharing that link about that absolute nonsense with some of the shelters here (I’m also in VT, but NEK unfortunately); I’m not really involved in any breeding or shelter circles so I guess it’s not surprising, but I had no clue. Seems like my local shelter wasn’t involved in that, thankfully... certainly not gonna say they’re perfect, but at least they weren’t trying to lift travel bans or propose breeding, geez. so anyways: it’s totally fine if this feels like, outside (cont.)

Finding breeders when you live in VT is much like finding breeders elsewhere, but also with the knowledge you may have to look further out than other areas of the country just due to our low population in general.

What defines a responsible breeder can vary person to person (everybody has their own standards) however breeders should be health testing their breeding dogs. No if, ands, or buts imo. In some circles (many working and hunting breeds/lines) this isn’t as commonplace yet, but it doesn’t mean it shouldn’t be if you get what I mean.

What I look for personally?

- Health testing what is recommended for breed/type.

-Health testing results are good and above AND viewable publically, searchable on public health testing databases.

-Breeding will take back any dog they produce at any time for any reason if needed and be able to either provide a home for that dog or rehome that dog to an appropriate home.

-Breeder proves dog is breed quality and can do so in a way that ensures no bias (if dog only participated in conformation, I look for titles there...but I personally look more at working titles. If looking for a companion I’d look for obedience, CGC etc. Breed depending they may do work that does not have a title available to them like many livestock guardians).

-Longevity of breeders dogs

-How many litters a year on average? Does it seem like the females exist to only produce or are they also dogs that do and can prove their ability and quality? Ex: my breeder sometimes has three litters a year, but in average she has one to two and I was very comfortable with those statistics.

-What past puppies are doing now (aka does this breeder produce dogs that are going on to be capable of the things I want to do with my dog?). Because having dogs that can do a task and continuing to produce dogs of that same quality is different.

In terms of unique challenges to watch out for being from VT? Do not be lured to be limited to our small area. You are really going to limited what breeds to choose when finding responsible breeders. The closest breeder to you is by all likelihood not the best option. Close doesn’t necessarily = good. (ex: closest malamute breeder to me also breeds huskies, breeds every single female he has every single year, has 7+ litters a year, does not health test or title in anyway, every dog I’ve met from said breeder has hip problems, breeds non breed quality dogs with long hair bc that appeals to people...but his dogs are “working dogs” because he has a couple photos of them pulling a sled and people ask why I went all the way to Canada to get my dogs...a 1.5 hour drive).

Also I do not know when our borders are going to allow transportation of animals from Canada right now so going to Quebec might not be an option. But importing has its own challenges.

[dogtraining1111]

How to Choose a Healthy Pure-Bred Puppy

WebMD veterinary expert answers commonly asked questions about how to choose a healthy, friendly pure-bred puppy as your new family pet.

You made the decision to get a puppy and did your research to find the perfect breed -- the one that will match your family’s temperament, energy level, and personality. But how do you find the best breeder to get a healthy, well-adjusted puppy? WebMD asked Lisa Peterson, the director of club communications for the American Kennel Club and a longtime breeder of Norwegian elkhounds, for some advice.

Q: There are ads for puppies in the newspaper, on the Internet, and, of course, there are those adorable puppies in the pet stores. Where’s the best place to buy my purebred puppy?

A: Breeders advertise in a variety of ways, including ads on the Internet, in newspapers, and their own web sites. Those are all good places to start, but they are also places you can run into a lot of trouble if you don’t do your research. You can go to our web site, www.AKC.org, to look for the parent club of our breeds. We list breeder referrals for all these clubs and they can put you in touch with breeders across the country.

Q: I’ve heard dogs in pet stores usually come from puppy mills. What are those and are they bad?

A: Most puppies in pet stores come from licensed commercial breeders. Those breeders that register with the American Kennel Club are inspected by us for care and conditions, record keeping, and other things.

There are more than 30 dog registries today. But the AKC is the only nonprofit registry and the only registry that inspects our breeders and mandates that the puppies be raised in humane conditions.

The term puppy mill really describes a kennel with filthy conditions, usually where there are too many dogs to care for properly. Many times these places are unlicensed because they sell directly to the public via the Internet. These are not your well inspected, licensed facilities. We have inspected some puppy mills and some were suspended by us.

Q: Do purebred dogs have a lot of health problems? Where can I find out about the health problems of the breeds I’m interested in?

A: The majority of purebred dogs are happy, healthy pets. We have a web site, www.akcdoghealth.com, which is a great resource for potential dog owners. It highlights what breeders are doing to avoid genetic diseases and whether they are conducting proper health screenings. You need to ask for certificates that show that the breeder has done the proper health screenings on the sire and the dam before the breeding took place.

A balanced breeding program includes a whole list of what should be done ahead of time, such as genetic testing, pedigree research, confirmation, and temperament analysis of the sire and dam.

Q: Will someone who breeds dogs for show sell me a puppy even if I don’t want to show it?

A: Absolutely. The majority of puppies in a show litter actually go to pet homes. The breeder selects the best one or two out of a litter to keep for their line and sells the rest.

Q: What questions should I ask to determine if someone is a good breeder?

A: The first question should be, “Can I come visit your home or your kennel facility?” Responsible breeders are very proud of their kennel and their dogs.

Ask if they register with the American Kennel Club. Ask if they have the health certificates for testing prior to breeding. Then, I expect the breeder to ask the buyer a lot of questions about how they plan to care for the new puppy.

Q: Is it a good idea to meet both parents of the puppy I want?

A: It’s good to meet both parents, if possible. But the majority of breeders have only the mothers at their homes. Usually the stud dogs live somewhere else. But visiting the mother and other relatives that might be in the breeder’s home will give you a good idea of the size and the temperament of the line.

You can also ask for contact information for the stud dog. But in today’s world, you may live in New York, but the stud dog’s frozen semen was shipped from California.

Q: What’s the best age for bringing a puppy home?

A: The ideal time is 8 to 12 weeks, especially with small or toy puppies. Breeders usually want to keep those a little longer because they’re fragile when they’re young. So a 12-week-old Yorkshire terrier puppy is very acceptable, where a hardier breed, like a Labrador retriever, is ready to go at 8 weeks.

You also need to check with your state, because some states have a minimum age for selling puppies.

[orcinus-ocean]

Everything below is posted with liberty and credit to Jemima Harrison and the PDE blog, with the sole purpose for this information to spread as far as possible.

Time to get tough

It is... • soon to be 10 years since Pedigree Dogs Exposed • five years since The Advisory Council on the Welfare Issues of Dog Breeding highlighted the issues linked to head conformation in brachycephalic breeds • 18 months since the publication of research (funded by the kennel club) spelling out the link between stenosis (pinched nostrils) and respiratory issues, especially in French Bulldogs • a year since a veterinary petition demanding urgent reform for flat-faced dogs • almost a year since the Kennel Club set up the Brachcycephalic Breeds Working Group in response to that petition .. and of course I have highlighted the issue of pinched nostrils endlessly here on this blog. Endlessly.

And yet... the picture at the top is one the Kennel Club has used as the ideal depiction of the French Bulldog in its new edition (2017) of its Illustrated Breed Standards. And it isn't a one-off. Here's the one the KC has used for the Boston Terrier standard.

The Bulldog.

And the Pug.

Dogs are as near-as-damn-it obligate nose breathers. And even if they can supplement by mouth-breathing when they are awake, they are unable to do so when they are asleep, meaning thousands of these dogs live lives of interrupted sleep as they have to wake up in order to not asphyxiate. Study after study has shown that these dogs pay the price for not being able to pull in a decent lungful of air and that starts with the nostrils. These pictures are all the proof you need that the Kennel Club is not taking this issue seriously; that at its very core the KC is paying nothing more than lip-service to the demands for reform by the veterinary profession and animal welfare campaigners. At one of the first meetings of the Brachycephalic Breeds Working Group, then KC Chairman Steve Dean expressly said that he didn't want "changing the breed standards" to be at the top of everyone's list of actions that could be taken. And indeed, it hasn't been. There have been some new measures.  The KC continues to fund brachy research. There is also now a brachy learning resource available on the KC website, the promise of better education of judges and a breed club commitment to educate better about the importance of keeping brachycephalics slim. There are also now health schemes for the Bulldog, French Bulldog and the Pug which do test for respiratory issues. All this is welcome. But, bottom line, the Kennel Club continues to bat for the breeders who do not want the basic phenotype to change because it's the breeders that pay their wages. Of course the simplest, quickest remedy is to give these dogs back some muzzle - to help not just with breathing issues, but to help protect their eyes from trauma and to give their teeth some room in their overcrowded mouths (a Pug here compared to an Australian Shepherd).

The problem is that breeders are wedded to flat faces, particularly in Pugs and Bulldogs. They talk about the perfect "layback" - which essentially means that the nose should not interrupt the line between the forehead and tip of the dog's chin. In fact, there's a new book out on the Pug head (yours for only $159) which reminds everyone that the word Pug comes from the latin for "fist" and that this is the shape the Pug's head should be in profile - i.e. totally flat.

Here's a reminder from a top UK show breeder of what the Bulldog's head should look like.

As you can see, a  protruding nose or a less severe underbite is considered a fault.

There was a big review of breed standards following Pedigree Dogs Exposed but it was mostly to add vague qualifiers such as, in the Pug standard,  "relatively" short rather than just short when describing the length of the muzzle. This gives the breeders way too much wiggle room.  We need proper metrics - a defined minimum skull/head/muzzle ratio and we need to find more profound ways to change their minds about what constitutes their breed in their eyes.

Large open nostrils are a requirement in brachy breed standards, but this is widely ignored because other points of the breed are considered more important. There would be outrage if a Frenchie with one lop ear or a Bulldog with a liver-coloured nose won in the show-ring, but dogs with slits for nostrils continue to be made up to champions.

Meanwhile, on my CRUFFA group, whenever you post a picture of more moderate examples of the breed, current of historical, the breeders heap scorn. A few days ago, one breeder insisted that the dog featured in this famous painting of a Pug by Carl Reichert, dating from the late 19th century, was a crossbreed.

Same for these ones. Mongrels, the lot of them.

She admitted that the eye-white showing was undesirable but preferred the look of this Crufts dog.

Today, this was posted on a public Facebook page by one French Bulldog breeder in response to a plea by vets for more moderate dogs.

(My bolding below)

To those who say you cannot rebuild Rome in a day I say... rubbish. There are already more moderate versions of these breeds out there being bred by breeders more interested in health than the current fashion. 

For more than 10 years, I have called for moderation and hoped it would come from the breeders. But  I now know it won't. If we want anything more than a wee bit of tweaking round the edges, then we need to demand it.

It is time to get tough. These dogs suffer - not all of them all the time but too many of them too often. 

Brachycephalics live a third less long than non-brachy dogs. Fifty per cent have significant airway disease. Almost all struggle to cool themselves. Most Bulldogs still can't mate or give birth naturally. Pugs have 19 times the risk of developing corneal ulcers.  All suffer from very low genetic diversity. And so on.

Today, Bulldogs, French Bulldogs and Pugs make up one in five of the dogs registered with the Kennel Club - up from one in 50 in 2005.

Yesterday, a new petition was launched asking for a ban on brachycephalics.  Over 20k people signed it in the first 24 hrs.

Have we reached a tipping point?  With your help.

I haven't been able to blog much recently because I am busy finishing off a television series for BBC2. But I have taken time out to write this because the new breed standard pictures made me so angry.

So please... Although it's moderation I want, not a ban, sign the petition. Make your feelings known to the Kennel Club (see here). Complain if brands or media use generic pictures of brachycephalics to sell their wares.

Vets: thank you so much for all that you are now doing, but please keep the pressure on.

And, of course, to everyone out there - please don't buy that puppy.

It is not safe to buy a Pug, Bulldog or French Bulldog. Not safe for them and not safe for your wallet.

[justslowdown]

i was so excited when i saw you’d be breeding your dogs and i’d love to know more about your plans for other breeds you’re bringing in! will you be focusing more on making them less prey drivey? i would be interested in a puppy from you in a year or two, how do you think the puppies you’re breeding will change between now and then? and thank you! i’ve been thinking the only way to get a good health tested dog was purebred, and i’m sooo glad it’s not the only route!

❤️ ❤️ ❤️

Thank you so much for sending this (and your other ask ❤️). I promise I tried to answer this concisely but… at this point I’m sure you know I can’t do that, haha.

You (or anyone!) can feel free to pm me if you want to chat about getting a pup down the road, or for help finding another crossbreeder who health tests and has what you’re looking for :) We don’t have breed clubs to network through, or support from the wider community, so it can be tough to find us. 

EDIT: Disclaimer that this is my first litter, I’m always learning, and plans will absolutely change as time goes on!

Yeah, part of the goal is harnessing the husky prey drive into something both controllable and useful. Kai is a good example of this. 

Part of his job is vermin control (unfortunately necessary where I live and with what I use the land for), as well as going into all-out destroy mode when there’s a raccoon or opossum trying to get into my chicken coop or rabbit cages. But he’s gentle, eager to please, very trainable, cares if I tell him no… Callie’s a true husky and she gets her own ideas. There’s no coming between her and a running animal. Kai’s just as intense with things he’s been taught are prey, but has that “stop and think” response with my stock. 

This first litter probably will be pet material, not (light) working like Kai. I’ll be keeping a bitch and hopefully placing another in a breeding home. The next gen will be crossed with lower-key, multipurpose working farmdogs. Kai has a collie girlfriend lined up now too, for a litter after I move next year! at Widdershins Farmcollies

 So, this litter is laying the groundwork, next few will be closer to my goal. Biddable, human-oriented, trainable without being high drive and intense, spitzy farmdogs. Sturdy, athletic, and moderate build. 

The loyal, calm, confident, bombproof, low-anxiety demeanor I love about Kai is something I really want to keep in my lines. Callie’s sunny, optimistic, good-natured personality too. Part of my goal is to breed great, easygoing pets for a moderately active people, even ones that don’t have a ton of dog experience.

Future breed options:

Farm collies, scotch collies–not purebred, bred for function as a small farm/homestead dog. So, good stock sense, good pest and predator control instincts, some herding potential, but not an over-the-top or obsessive herding drive (which actually can be thought of as a prey drive without the last couple steps in the sequence). Intuitive, sensitive, devoted to their humans, hardworking.And that indescribable Lassie quality. 

English shepherds are something I’ve considered but have heard some lines are more “hard” or intense than I’m looking for. I like that they learn rules and routine around a farm and work to uphold them. 

Working line shelties would be great! Sadly, not many are bred for actual work, just trial herding, which is definitely not what I need in a dog. Upright, loose-eyed herding would be handy but there’s so much more a homestead farmdog than just herding. So different from ranch-style hyperspecialist border collies, for example.

If I can find Siberians that aren’t high prey drive (doubtful), I’d love to cross more of those in. I adore the husky independence/self-direction, freethinking problem solving, functional weatherproof coat, stamina, square sturdy practical build, pull drive (carting/sledding/joring!!). I enjoy that they’re loving and sweet without being up your ass all the time. The howling and talking. The EARS. No handler or stranger aggression, very low in fear/anxiety (if well bred). Just… good, solid dogs. 

Some spitz breeds that are more trainable, like the Siberian laika breeds, could be an option. Prey drive is useful. Out of control prey drive is… not. 

Then there’s the rare herding spitz breeds, like Nenets herding laika, Finnish lapphund, Lapponian herder, Icelandic sheepdog. If I can find people in the US breeding them for work, not show, I’d be all over that. Considering importing down the road.

I’m going back and forth on Chinook. I’ve talked with an amazing breeder, super crossbreeding-friendly (did an outcross litter recently!), and love the sound of their temperament. Generic working dog. Not intense, not too challenging to own, but just a seriously solid, useful, multipurpose dog. Sled dog and herding foundation dogs with a dash of mastiff. I just… don’t… like how they look :/ That’s such a petty thing but if I’m going to look at a dog for 12+ yrs, I want to enjoy looking at it, y’know? I think I’d need to breed from a Chinook cross, not a purebred, to get the aesthetic I’m going for.

Real herding GSDs are even harder to find than farm-bred multipurpose ones but I’d consider either if they had solid temperaments and were health tested. 

Mixes of any of the above, of course!

And in the end, it all comes down to the individual dogs, not the breed or type. 

So! Yeah, as you can imagine, I’m planning for this project to be decades and decades long, and it will take a lot of help, co-owns, and cooperation with other breeders.

 Every litter will be unique. I don’t want to create a breed, even one with an open studbook. I want to continuously work on a general type that does what I want, looks how I want, and has the temperament I want. The pups that go to pet or hobby sport homes should thrive in that lifestyle too, but down the road (definitely not in this upcoming litter, sadly) I hope to produce a few working prospects in every litter.