#Embroidery Units

[fashionsfromhistory]

Jacket

1590-1630

Great Britain

This simple unlined jacket represents an informal style of clothing worn by women in the early 17th century. Unlike more fitted waistcoats, this loose, unshaped jacket may have been worn during pregnancy. A repeating pattern of curving scrolls covers the linen from which spring sweet peas, oak leaves, acorns, columbine, lilies, pansies, borage, hawthorn, strawberries and honeysuckle embroidered in coloured silks, silver and silver-gilt threads. The embroidery stitches include chain, stem, satin, dot and double-plait stitch, as well as knots and couching of the metal threads. Sleeves and sides are embroidered together with an insertion stitch in two shades of green instead of a conventionally sewn seam. Although exquisitely worked, this jacket is crudely cut from a single layer of linen, indicating the work of a seamstress or embroiderer, someone without a tailor's training. It has no cuffs, collar or lining, and the sleeves are cut in one piece. The jacket was later altered to fit a thinner person. The sleeves were taken off, the armholes re-shaped, the sides cut down, and the sleeves set in again.

The Victoria & Albert Museum (Accession number: 919-1873)

[mathysphere]

HAPPY PI DAY!

For this year's celebratory pattern I wanted to tackle a dream project of mine: stitching a functional unit circle. The French knots (all 100 of them!) around the lower circle represent the coordinates of each point (sans radicals and negative signs), and the upper circle shows how sine and cosine can be found by following a point around a circle's circumference.

[pattern here] [previous pi day patterns here]

[malevolent-muse]

I am speechless

Source: Twitter

@plaidbooks is the individual who stitched this Carisi cross stitch project.

[oliveflr]

My colleague made this to send people to the study we're conducting on whether people think the internet should be regulated. Feel free to use it and take the study! We'd love to hear your opinions :)

[wizarddsandwichh]

Unit 002 getting their skat skrongled. Hope u like it it took12h

and its up for sale om ko-fi :3:3

https://ko-fi.com/wizardsandwich88071

[babalmaghrib]

| Did you know ?

According to a study established by the company Trading Economics and WITS, the Arab Middle-Eastern countries that receive the most exports of clothings & textiles made in Morocco are the United Arab Emirates and Saudi Arabia.

Receipts below ↓

1. Trading Economics Datas : https://tradingeconomics.com/morocco/exports/saudi-arabia…

2. Wits World Bank Datas : https://wits.worldbank.org/CountryProfile/en/Country/MAR/Year/LTST/TradeFlow/Export/Partner/by-country/Product/50-63_TextCloth#:~:text=In%202020%2C%20the%20top%20partner,Portugal%2C%20United%20Kingdom%20and%20Italy…

[newyorkdigitizing]

[worldhistorys4]

history of united state

The United States of America, commonly known as the United States (U.S. or USA), is a vast country located in North America. It is made up of 50 states, a federal district (Washington D.C.), five major territories, and various other possessions. With a population of over 330 million people, the United States is the third-most populous country in the world.The United States has a diverse cultural and ethnic makeup, influenced by immigration from across the globe. Its history is marked by significant events such as the American Revolution, the abolishment of slavery, the Civil Rights Movement, and the election of the first African-American president, Barack Obama.The United States is renowned for its economic strength and global influence. It boasts the world's largest economy, driven by sectors like technology, finance, aerospace, and entertainment. The country is also a global leader in scientific research and innovation, with numerous universities and institutions that attract students and researchers from around the world.The United States has a constitutional federal republic system of government, with a president serving as both the head of state and head of the government. The three branches of government—executive, legislative, and judicial—provide checks and balances to ensure the separation of powers. The country has a strong tradition of democratic values, individual freedoms, and the rule of law.Geographically, the United States is known for its diverse landscapes, ranging from vast plains and valleys to rugged mountains, pristine lakes, and stunning coastlines. It is home to breathtaking national parks, including Yellowstone, Grand Canyon, Yosemite, and many others that attract millions of visitors each year.The United States has a significant cultural impact on the world, especially through its music, film, and television industries. American popular culture has influenced various aspects of global entertainment, fashion, and lifestyle trends.While the United States faces its share of challenges, such as social inequality, political polarization, and environmental concerns, it continues to strive for progress, innovation, and the pursuit of the American Dream.Sure!The United States is known for its strong commitment to individual liberties and freedom of expression. The First Amendment of the U.S. Constitution protects freedom of speech, religion, the press, assembly, and the right to petition the government. This commitment to freedom has allowed for a vibrant and diverse society, where people from different backgrounds and beliefs can coexist and contribute to the country's cultural fabric.The United States is also recognized for its military strength and global presence. It has one of the world's largest defense budgets and maintains a strong military force. The country has played a significant role in various international conflicts and has alliances with numerous countries around the world.Education is highly valued in the United States, and the country is home to many prestigious universities and important to note that while discussing the United States, it is a vast and diverse country, with regional differences in culture, customs, and traditions. Each state has its own unique characteristics and contributes to the overall patchwork of American society.In conclusion, the United States of America is a country with a rich history, diverse population, and global influence. It is known for its commitment to freedom, innovation,

[inky-duchess]

Fantasy Guide to Building A Culture

Culture is defined by a collection of morals, ethics, traditions, customs and behaviours shared by a group of people.

Hierarchy and Social Structures

Within every culture, there is a hierarchy. Hierarchies are an important part of any culture, usually do ingrained that one within the culture wouldn't even question it. Hierarchy can be established either by age, gender or wealth and could even determine roles within their society. Sometimes hierarchy can may be oppressive and rigid whilst other times, ranks can intermingle without trouble. You should consider how these different ranks interact with one another and whether there are any special gestures or acts of deference one must pay to those higher than them. For example, the Khasi people of Meghalaya (Northern India), are strictly matrillineal. Women run the households, inheritance runs through the female line, and the men of the culture typically defer to their mothers and wives. Here are a few questions to consider:

How is a leader determined within the culture as a whole and the family unit?

Is the culture matriarchal? Patriarchal? Or does gender even matter?

How would one recognise the different ranks?

How would one act around somebody higher ranking? How would somebody he expected to act around somebody lower ranking?

Can one move socially? If not, why? If so, how?

Traditions and Customs

Traditions are a staple in any culture. These can be gestures or living life a certain way or to the way a certain person should look. Traditions are a personal detail to culture, they are what make it important. Tradition can dictate how one should keep their home, run their family, take care of their appearance, act in public and even determine relationship. Tradition can also be a double edged sword. Traditions can also be restrictive and allow a culture to push away a former member if they do not adhere to them, eg Traditional expectations of chastity led to thousands of Irish women being imprisoned at the Magdelene Laundries. Customs could be anything from how one treats another, to how they greet someone.

How important is tradition?

What are some rituals your culture undertakes?

What are some traditional values in your world? Does it effect daily life?

Are there any traditions that determine one's status?

Values and Opinions

Values and Opinions are the bread and butter of any culture. This is the way your culture sees the world and how they approach different life hurdles. These may differ with other cultures and be considered odd to outsiders, what one culture may value another may not and what opinion another holds, one may not. There will be historical and traditional reasons to why these values and opinions are held. Cultures usually have a paragon to which they hold their members to, a list of characteristics that they expect one to if not adhere to then aspire to. The Yoruba people value honesty, hard work, courage and integrity. Here are some questions to consider?

How important are these ethics and core values? Could somebody be ostracised for not living up to them?

What are some morals that clash with other cultures?

What does your culture precieved to be right? Or wrong?

What are some opinions that are considered to be taboo in your culture? Why?

Dress Code

For many cultures, the way somebody dresses can be important. History and ethics can effect how one is meant to be dressed such as an expectation of chastity, can impose strict modesty. While other cultures, put more importance on details, the different sorts of clothes worn and when or what colour one might wear. The Palestinian people (من النهر إلى البحر ، قد يكونون أحرارا) denoted different family ties, marriage status and wealth by the embroidery and detailing on their thoub.

Are there traditional clothes for your world? Are they something somebody wears on a daily basis or just on occasion?

Are there any rules around what people can wear?

What would be considered formal dress? Casual dress?

What would happen if somebody wore the wrong clothes to an event?

Language

Language can also be ingrained as part of a Culture. It can be a specific way one speaks or a an entirely different language. For example, in the Southern States of America, one can engage in a sort of double talk, saying something that sounds sweet whilst delivering something pointed. Bless their heart. I have a post on creating your own language here.

Arts, Music and Craft

Many cultures are known for different styles of dance, their artwork and crafts. Art is a great part of culture, a way for people to express themselves and their culture in art form. Dance can be an integral part of culture, such as céilí dance in Ireland or the Polka in the Czech Republic. Handicrafts could also be important in culture, such as knitting in Scottish culture and Hebron glass in Palestine. Music is also close to culture, from traditional kinds of singing such as the White Voice in Ukraine and the playing of certain instruments such as the mvet.

Food and Diet

The way a culture prepares or intakes or treats certain foods are important to a culture. In some cultures, there is a diet yo adhere to, certain foods are completely banned. With Jewish culture, pork is prohibited along with fish such as sturgeon, along with shellfish and certain fowl. Meat must also be prepared in a certain way and animal byproducts such as dairy, must never be created or even eaten around this meat. This is known as kosher. The way one consumes food is also important to culture. In some cultures, only certain people may eat together. Some cultures place important on how food is eaten. In Nigerian culture, the oldest guests are served first usually the men before the women. In Japanese culture, one must say 'itadakimasu' (I recieve) before eating. Culture may also include fasting, periods of time one doesn't intake food for a specific reason.

What are some traditional dishes in your world?

What would be a basic diet for the common man?

What's considered a delicacy?

Is there a societal difference in diet? What are the factors that effect diet between classes?

Is there any influence from other cuisines? If not, why not? If so, to what extent?

What would a typical breakfast contain?

What meals are served during the day?

What's considered a comfort food or drink?

Are there any restrictions on who can eat what or when?

Are there any banned foods?

What stance does your world take on alcohol? Is it legal? Can anybody consume it?

Are there any dining customs? Are traditions?

Is there a difference in formal meals or casual meals? If so, what's involved?

Are there any gestures or actions unacceptable at the dinner table?

How are guests treated at meals? If they are given deference, how so?

[fashionsfromhistory]

Dressing Gown

1878-1879

United States

Peabody Essex Museum (Object Number: 133939)

[andweart]

What is the use of logo?

𝙏𝙝𝙚 𝙡𝙤𝙜𝙤 𝙞𝙨 𝙖 𝙫𝙞𝙨𝙪𝙖𝙡 𝙚𝙭𝙥𝙧𝙚𝙨𝙨𝙞𝙤𝙣 𝙤𝙛 𝙮𝙤𝙪𝙧 𝙗𝙧𝙖𝙣𝙙, 𝙧𝙚𝙥𝙧𝙚𝙨𝙚𝙣𝙩𝙚𝙙 𝙩𝙝𝙧𝙤𝙪𝙜𝙝 𝙘𝙤𝙡𝙤𝙧𝙨 𝙖𝙣𝙙 𝙨𝙝𝙖𝙥𝙚𝙨. 𝙄𝙩'𝙨 𝙝𝙤𝙬 𝙮𝙤𝙪 𝙫𝙞𝙨𝙪𝙖𝙡𝙡𝙮 𝙘𝙤𝙢𝙢𝙪𝙣𝙞𝙘𝙖𝙩𝙚 𝙮𝙤𝙪𝙧 𝙗𝙧𝙖𝙣𝙙'𝙨 𝙥𝙚𝙧𝙨𝙤𝙣𝙖𝙡𝙞𝙩𝙮 𝙩𝙤 𝙘𝙪𝙨𝙩𝙤𝙢𝙚𝙧𝙨,

𝙒𝙚 𝙖𝙧𝙚 𝙖 𝙗𝙧𝙖𝙣𝙙, 𝙩𝙝𝙖𝙩 𝙢𝙖𝙠𝙚𝙨 𝙖𝙢𝙖𝙯𝙞𝙣𝙜 𝙩𝙝𝙞𝙣𝙜𝙨.

AndWeArt

[thefourthhexgirl]

Redwork

A form of American embroidery, also called art needlework, that developed in the 19th century and was particularly popular between 1855 and 1925. It traditionally uses red thread, chosen because red dyes were the first commercially available colorfast dyes, in the form of Turkey red embroidery floss. Redwork designs are composed of simple stitches and were mainly used to decorate household objects, especially quilts. Patterns for individual quilt blocks were sold for a penny in the United States, making them popular and affordable. The main stitch used in redwork is backstitch and outline stitching. 

[fashion-find]

Milumia Women's Floral Embroidery Mesh Round Neck Tunic Party Dress

[omgthatdress]

U.S. Congresswoman Rashida Tlaib is sworn in wearing a Palestinian thobe.

The RISD Museum

The British Museum

The Metropolitan Museum of Art

Palestinian Children's Relief Fund

Palestine Red Crescent Society

World Central Kitchen

Doctors Without Borders

United Nations Relief and Works Agency

International Rescue Committee

[wellntruly]

If you read the novel Catch-22 (1961), about U.S. Army pilots & sundry stationed on a Greek island during World War II, you will encounter this off-hand description during the period where Yossarian is hiding in the field hospital:

At which you will either pause worryingly, or you’re normal.

I am not normal, because I have watched the television show M*A*S*H (1972-1983), about U.S. Army medical staff in a mobile surgical unit during the Korean War, and which features a character called Hawkeye Pierce, who frequently looks like this:

Now this bathrobe, iconic simply, appears red to the observer. However, deep into the run there is a line in which Hawkeye refers to it as "purple"—great consternation. But film cameras and light waves being what they are (capricious, devilish), it could very well be maroon in life. It could very well be maroon. It’s what I assumed after that comment. But what I'd never asked was, what is it made out of? Is that corduroy, could it be corduroy, could this be—

Oh noooooooo!

Why is Hawkeye the only one who is wearing the robe of patients from the last war, I ask you! Is it for the METAPHOR. To make me YELL. Did the costume department make it for him, or did they just already have one on hand in the WWII storage? Wait it wasn't real was it? Where is it, where is this robe!

Well babe, it’s in the Smithsonian:

A) of all, fucking fantastic, could not be a place I more want Alan Alda’s bathrobe as Hawkeye Pierce to be than the National Museum of American History. B) well well well well well, what do we have here:

[sic]

So looking THAT up brings you nothing that makes any sense, even trying to correct for spelling. But not to fear: historical re-enactors are here.

On the website of the “WW2 US Medical Research Centre,” an absolutely delightful combination of words and spelling brought to you by two European history buffs, and that’s Europeans who are obsessed with history, specifically American medical units in the 1940s, there’s a page for pajamas, and why look who’s here:

OH ho oh HO!

“Progressive Coat & Apron Mfg. Co.” is so similarly bizarre that I would be very willing to bet that something like idk, the imperfect process of digitizing thousands of records for a website catalog, could have absolutely resulted in “Agressive Coat and Manufacturing Company.” Which would mean yeah, yeah yeah: vintage World War II, slash Korea, just five years later. It was authentic, what they gave Alda to wear, along with his dog tags.

Just Hawkeye though still, which is what's odd.

BUT HANG ON.

Heeeeey now!

So I was recently reminded that in the pilot episode, but the pilot episode only, Wayne Rogers as Trapper John McIntyre also has the regulation corduroy MD/USA bathrobe! In fact, he actually has what would appear to become Hawkeye’s—observe the location of the embroidery. Pocket, like Hawkeye’s in every robe appearance after this first episode, the robe that ends up in the Smithsonian Museum. Whereas the one with the embroidery on the chest that's hanging above Hawkeye's cot here, a common variant that shows up when you’re searching around on military history websites, after this appearance I believe is seen just once more on a visiting colonel later in the first season, then quietly vanishes. Alda ends up in Trapper's, and stays in it for keeps, while Rogers gets, of all things, a cheery goldenrod terry number.

But like, why. Why just Hawkeye in the WWII surplus robe. Both Doyle and Watson have avenues here that I like to think about. For the Doylist side, I suspect it was a decision of like, this is simply too matchy. It’s 1972, our TV screens are small, we gotta take any chance we can get to distinguish these tall white men constantly wearing the same of two monochrome outfits.

In fact, I actually wonder if there was a world where Trapper might have stayed in the maroon and Hawkeye could have ended up in Henry’s robe.

The light blue & white striped bathrobe McLean Stevenson wore as Henry Blake was sold at auction in 2018, and the item description contains the curious detail of it having a handwritten tag inside reading “Hawkeye.” Well heeeyy again.

And here’s another curious detail:

There was a blue & white striped Army-issue robe as well

Now Henry’s is clearly NOT vintage WWII, lacking the pocket embroidery, being terry cloth, and also of course: pastel. But it’s INTERESTING, isn’t it? They had to have been GOING for that look, with that same unusual collar shape and that multi-stripe patterning.

(Also, for real 'what the hell even IS this color' fun, this militaria collectors purveyor has one of the maroon versions too, with photos you can page though and laugh as it flips between looking clearly purple and clearly red in every other photograph. Cameras!!!)

Anyway now we turn to the Watsonian explanation, which seems to run like this: the men at the 4077 were just casually passing their robes around to each other. It's about the intimacy in the face of war, etc. I can see bathrobes going missing when they bug out, getting stolen from the laundry by Klinger and scrapped for parts, being handed off to a poor cold Korean kid who needs it more, and then they need to get to the showers and one of them is like hey, just take mine, and then it’s his now. And eventually most of them end up in warmer-looking civilian robes than the Army holdovers that were being distributed early on, but Hawkeye, he just hung on to Trapper's.

And as a side effect, still looks like he's been injured in World War II.

[creations-by-chaosfay]

@anastasiaoftheironwood handquilting Star Story has begun!

I need to find an alternative to white chalk that doesn't stain fabric. Seeing white chalk on nearly-white fabric is a challenge. I've tried Clover and Fons & Porter, but they stain fabric.

Threads I'm using are Sulky, 12 wt, and the colors are 4057 (yellow/gold), 4034 (black/grey), and 4001 (light brown/cream) They're variegated blendables, but stand out just enough to add visual interest.

As for the quilting, details below:

I'll be using a wood star cutout as a template. I found it at a craft shop, and it's supposed to be a wall decoration. After I get the stars quilted, I'll go over it again with crescents. Unfortunately, I haven't been able to find a crescent nor have one made (lack of funds), so I'm making one with embroidery rings and cardboard.

Why this instead of straight lines and following seams? Time and fun. I use a small quilting hoop to make circles on Halloween Dream, and the handquilting was fast. When I handquilted around thr blocks and border seams, it slowed considerably. Plus, the circles were fun. I'm sticking with templates for this, including the borders, because it is so much fun and faster. My client will get their quilt before the end of the summer. Ideally, within six weeks.

To help speed things along, I'm using a longer stitch as well. About a quarter inch. Tiny stitches are my preference for making parts of a quilt pop, like outlining butterflies other parts of a print. The effect is dramatic and very pleasing...bit it takes sooooo much time. I intend to avoid that here.

I'll be working on Star Story in the afternoon, when my sewing room gets too hot. Mornings will be for seeing, which means more project overlap. Monday-Thursday, from 6AM to 10AM, I'm sewing, take a lengthy lunchbreak, noon-4PM handquilting. I'm up at around 5AM, though that may soon be at 4AM because I love mornings, and go to bed at around 9PM now that we have an a/c unit in the bedroom.

When the handquilting is finished, I'll make a new post featuring it. This will be thr most beautiful quilt I have made yet.