#Kitchener Essence

[randomfoggytiger]

Kitchener Essences: David Duchovny

Already tackled Gillian Anderson's essence here, so, it's David's turn!

John Kitchener, like Kibbe, created his system on top of the yin-yang methodology other stylists were constructing in the early 20th century. Yet instead of focusing on the body's structure as a whole (Kibbe's method), Kitchener zeroed in on the face: particularly, its holistic expression.

ESSENCES AND THE ENTERTAINMENT INDUSTRY

(Credit to: Ellie-Jean Royden)

I'd previously written a post about the Feminine vs. Masculine balance in David Duchovny's face (post here); but found, as I was working on this project, that that method and the Kitchener method overlap each other. Both assess the yin (soft, rounded, curved lines) and yang (sharp, narrow or blunt, chiseled lines) of a person's face; and draw up a general impression others would have of them at a neutral first glance.

These tools may not appeal to everyone; but boy do they work hand and glove in the entertainment industry. Actors can disguise their natural essence in a role by embodying another person; can tone down their masculine vs. feminine balance with hair, makeup, and styling; and can lean into their natural aura for promotion and marketing. Of course, there is some degree of typecasting-- it would be harder (or impossible) for a person with Gamine Essence (smaller facial features with dynamic odds and ends) to pull off an Ethereal Essence (long, sleek, elongated, elegant lines) than it would for an Ethereal to pull off a Dramatic Essence (as Cate Blanchett did for Thor: Ragnarök.) This system also effectually proves Kibbe's warning: one cannot evaluate a person's Kibbe body type by the face alone-- Ingenue Leonardo DiCaprio and Classic (if I recall) Colin Firth are both Romantics, after all. Similarly, 5'2" Kibbe Theatrical Romantic Gillian Anderson and 5'10" Kibbe Dramatic Tilda Swinton share a striking Ethereal Essence.

**Note**: If you don't care to ingest the full post, skip straight to the DAVID DUCHOVNY header for his analysis.

DECODING KITCHENER ESSENCES FOR MEN

As per my first Essence post, I will be including transcripts and screenshots from Ellie-Jean Royden's video on the topic (here). Also, highly recommend Gabriella Arruda, who has a more practical, everyday wear approach to the Essences (as well as excellent videos combining them with the Kibbe Body Types-- my posts on GA's and DD's Kibbe here and here, respectively-- and seasonal color analysis.)

Dramatic

The Most Yang Dominant (strong features)-- sharp, narrow, long, hard. Defined by: danger, wildness, boldness, theatrical, dark, extravagant, intense, dignified. Dramatic faces tend to have three or more elongated and “hard” traits: high and dominant cheekbones, long faces, sharp jawlines, sharp noses, slightly narrow eyes, narrow lips.  

Dramatics look best in sharp, tailored clothes; in bold, extravagant, theatrical styles; …in unconventional or unusual patterns; in asymmetry or straight lines; …in unusual textures or dangerous styles (leather, for example.)  

Natural

Yang Dominant (strong features)-- blunt, wide, broad, and elongated…instead of elongated, sharp, harsh (you might see men with Dramatic Essence as the villain in a movie… Natural Essence tends to be… the hero of the film.) Defined by: relaxed, earthy, sporty, active, wild, easygoing, approachable, rugged (...chopping a tree down or hacking a block of wood ready for a fire.) 

They look best in simple, comfortable, relaxed clothes. They tend to look formal in the most casual and simple styles; whereas… in a suit, they tend to look quite constrained…. Jeans and a t-shirt… don’t look casual or sloppy… looks like it belongs…. Look good in loose fitting; sturdy, oversized sort of styles. Anything with unstructured shapes, layering, or denim. 

Gamine

Yang Dominant (strong features)--  sharp or angular features, with some youthful elements (large and soft eyes, or slightly wide and soft noses, or slightly rounded cheekbones with a sharp jaw and narrow eyes.) Defined by: quirky, rebellious, whimsical, youthful (but not as youthful as Ingenue Essence), boyish, playful, fun. Like a Dramatic in some ways… with a youthful undercurrent to them.  

They look really good when poking fun at fashion. They look good in mix-n-match or retro styles. They look good in bold colors or unusual patterns. High contrast; quite cool in rolled up jeans or “teenager” hoodies. They look good in lots of detail and compact styles and maybe some whimsical elements. 

Classic

Neither Yang nor Yin Dominant (symmetrically balanced features)-- in the middle, not particularly sharp or soft; timeless, neutral features (no defining characteristic features.) Defined by: clean, timeless, elegant, sophisticated, formal, conservative.  

They look best in minimal details, allowing their own beauty to shine through. They look good in smooth and controlled lines. They become more memorable as everything else is "stripped" away. They look good in timeless looks-- it doesn't look boring or outdated; tends to look very elegant and chic. You could even describe them as looking regal... in these styles. They look good in symmetry, balance, neutral colors, and quality fabrics.

Romantic

Yin Dominant (soft features)-- soft, round facial features; smouldering eyes; lush lips; slightly narrow jaws; round cheeks or slightly wide noses; often have dark hair and high contrast (like Dramatics, except with shorter, softer lines.) Defined by: sensual, alluring, lush, romantic.  

They look good in soft, lush fabrics (like velvet.) Look best in bowties over long ties. They might look good in something a little undone, looser fabrics, softer fabrics. In red or lush colors. In large, rounded patterns. Jewels or jewel tones. 

Ingenue

Yin Dominant (soft features)-- baby-like faces (lots of Hollywood male heartthrobs are Ingenues, ex. Leo DiCaprio); small, slightly wide noses; rounder eyes; round cheekbones; plump but smallish lips; rounded and shorter faces. Defined by: sweet looking, innocent, gentle, delicate, adorable, youthful (less “boudoir” than Romantics in the same styles.)

They look best in delicate and small details. Whimsical styles; in anything vintage; in pastel or pale colors; in decorative styles like small floral prints or things that hark back to another era. They look really good in ornate, intricate sort of things. And of course, with soft, delicate fabrics. These men look much better in a bow tie than in a long tie because this mimics their short, rounded facial features. 

Ethereal

The Most Yin Dominant (soft features)-- a meeting between yin and yang features. They have elongated faces; some sharp facial features like cheekbones or high foreheads, but with rounded or slightly wide set eyes or soft lips. (Not blending their yin and yang together like Classic, or contrasting it like Gamines.) Defined by: pure, wise, timeless, otherworldly, ageless, old souls, uncanny, celestial (tend to be cast in fantasy roles.) 

They look really good in metallics; soft, lightweight, fluttery fabrics; vintage or period pieces with… fantastical, ornate, intricate elements. Too many overdone details tips into caricature; instead, they could opt for gray instead of black, or create a long visual line down with their hair.

DAVID DUCHOVNY

Let's start from the top: discovering what are David's worst essences.

What David Isn't

Dramatic

Dramatic is the worst Essence for DD, turning his flare for the "out there" into costume and caricature, wearing him instead of the other way 'round. As such, he often hams up his poses or expressions to better match the energy of the shot, transforming it from avant-garde fashion to tongue-in-cheek performance art.

Gamine

David is drawn to pizzazz, to bold colors, to unique styles. There's a part of his nature that responds to it-- which is easy to see why, when we explore his primary Essence. However: he walks right by the most flattering option to snatch up the second worst.

He's a handsome man, no doubt... but even his looks can't save him from the consequences of his dilapidated fashion sense. Youthful vibes very well with David; but he jumps upon an "aha!" too vigorously, overdoing it with more and more funky, punky, spiky, mismatchy elements. Not even his Kibbe can save him: if he'd been Romantic or Gamine instead of Soft Natural, his shorter bones might have been able to more effectively cover up the disjointed effect.

The bottom rows can be salvageable, as his hairstyle would be dependent on what outfit he wore with it. But even at face value, there's something off about too much tousle either way. The bland-for-him Classic Essence shirt in the last picture doesn't help matters.

Classic

Classic is not the worst on David; but it's not the best, either.

Minimal detail on David tends to wash out his unique charm, burying it under too much finish or polish. The suit in the first picture appears to have been purposefully bought a size up in an attempt to "soften" the silhouette on DD (without success); and the second is too pinched and narrow in the shoulders and too widening and tailored at the hips (a typical Classic silhouette composed of equal parts yin and yang.) The two gray shirts, however, are better: they fit the lines of his body (Kibbe), are Medium Value gray (an aspect of his seasonal color analysis), and are better accessorized with tiny details (buttons and pockets.) Steps in the right direction, but not a complete victory.

Romantic

David's styling and poses are overtly sexual here; but the result is more akin to off-the-clock lounging than reach-into-your-heart-through-your-eyes-and-consume-your-soul sensuality. Put more concisely, his sexy isn't boudoir or bodice ripper.

The top pose is the most off-kilter; but the second row's pictures are all salvageable. David's neutral expression in the first pic changes the effect into steamy relaxation; his pose and delicate elements in the second turns the shot into something fresh and almost soulful; and his luxuriously soft hair and pajamas in the third reads as one clean, complete look. The last two particularly are mixed with his primary and secondary Essences.

What David Is

Natural

Maybe. Not discounting the possibility.

It wouldn't be a surprise: David is a Kibbe Soft Natural; and there is definite overlap between its lines and Kitchener's Essence. However: David can only handle teeny tiny amounts of it. Too much and he looks like a clean-shaven homeless man wearing the wealthy neighborhood's overpriced hand-me-downs instead of his old, gunky, raggedy hoodie. That, or a struggling artist.

The top left look is salvageable: his glasses are a complimentarily small detail, his sleeves are rolled up above the wrists, his hair isn't too wild or unkempt, and his pants aren't visible in the shot. Not the best, but definitely not the worst.

Ethereal

The gray shirt's back! That's because, despite the intent of the shot, the end result is an Ethereal Essence come to life: long, luxurious, draping silhouette; lower contrast grey instead of a harsher, richer color like black; and shadowy, "otherworldly" set dressing.

David's first two looks are from the same photoshoot. The metallic sheen in his suit and Ethereal graphic on his shirt turn this look from a classic silhouette into a statement piece, one that perfectly accords with David's blink-and-you'll-miss-it expression and understated-overstated drama.

However: it's not his best Essence: lines that are too flowy or too long or too "flyaway" jar slightly with his persona-- not quite messy, but not quite right.

Ingenue

David's best Essence is Ingenue-- and no wonder. Even early on his career, fans were calling him a puppy and wanting to take care of him.

His sensuality is expressed by irrepressible innocence, that element of childishness he misinterprets as Gamine's boyishly spunky, eternally youthful spark. With that in mind, he should focus on softer details instead-- not replacing his funky inclinations so much as tempering them. Funk on a smaller, scale: delicate ornateness instead of jagged edges and opposing prints; repeatable patterns instead of differing styles mashed together. David should also lean into buttons, comfy textured fabrics, and bowties to match the tiny, repeated curves in his face.

COMPARING OTHER SOFT NATURAL ESSENCES

Let's test out his Ingenue Essence.

How shall we do that? By comparing him to other men that share his same Kibbe Soft Natural body type.

Dramatic Essence: None

I don't have a Dramatic SN to compare; but i think we can all conclude that this Essence doesn't scream 'David Duchovny.'

Natural Essence: Brad Pitt and Robert Redford

Brad and Robert are put together and at ease in differing levels of "dishevelment." David, though more "himself", does not (even with the same level of tailoring and styling care in the first photo as Brad.)

Gamine Essence: Gene Kelly

Gene comes alive in bold, expressive, potentially clashing elements. David, however, looks mismatched and uncomfortable.

Classic Essence: John Wayne

While John shines with minimal detail, David becomes flat.

Romantic Essence: George Clooney

Here we can see George's effortless romanticism and David's endearing Ingenue charm radiating from their pores.

Ingenue Essence: Bing Crosby

With both of their hair slicked up and back, it's too easy to spot the shared tiny, delicate aspects dominating Bing's and David's face. Bing's bowtie and David's small-scale tie further accentuate these features, as do their softer profiles and lower contrast.

Ethereal Essence: None

Again, I was unable to find a Kibbe approved Soft Natural that fit the Ethereal requirements. However, I did find DD in an Ethereal shirt and studio set; so, let us gaze upon it, note it works but not fully, and move along.

COMPARING TWO INGENUE ESSENCES

To further prove the Ingenue theory, we can compare him against Kibbe Romantic Elijah Wood's Ingenue Essence. Both have smaller scale facial features, softer lines, and softer silhouettes. They are also complimented very naturally by smaller scale accessories, smaller scale repeating patterns, smaller scale soft tailoring, and smaller scale bowties (compared to their regular ones.) These touches tap into and bring out their "cute" undercurrent easily and effectively.

ALL TOGETHER

CONCLUSION

Ingenue-Ethereal, perhaps Ingenue-Ethereal-Natural. Not bad!

It makes sense why he and Gillian sold The X-Files: the softened bluntness of his Kibbe created a striking visual contrast against her narrow, sharp Kibbe while their close percentages of Ethereal Essence knit those differences back together in an otherworldly, mythical pursuit of the truth (be it men, monsters, or insane work hours.)

Meanwhile, David is drawn to characteristic detail, unfortunately expressing that dynamic essence through Gamine rather than its perfect twin Ingenue. Furthermore, his love of long, less-restrictive lines is also misplaced in the Natural Essence, whereas it would be right at home in the equally less restrictive but also softer and sleeker Ethereal Essence.

Thanks for reading~

Enjoy!

[youremyheaven]

Ingenue vs Gamine: Comparative Essence Analysis

I feel like most people get Ingenue & Gamine essence mixed up. They're easy to confuse because both these essences make the individual look younger than they are and give them a "cute" appearance but there are key differences between the two.

CELEBRITIES WITH INGENUE ESSENCE

L to R

Nicola Coughlan, Kim Minju

YooA, Miranda Kerr

Hanni, Lin Yun

Gene Tierney, Skai Jackson & Michelle Trachtenberg

If you look at their features, they have full cheeks, mostly big eyes, a small tapered chin, round foreheads and an overall round face. They look very doll-like and innocent. Ingenue is extreme yin essence so these women look very girl-like even when they're much older (Miranda is 40, Nicola is 37)

CELEBRITIES WITH GAMINE ESSENCE

L to R

Taylor Russell

Zoe Kravitz, Jeongyeon, Dahyun

Seulgi, Devon Aoki, Luda

Kristin Kreuk, Nana Komatsu

All of these women have Gamine essence. Similar to Ingenue essence, all of them look young and cute but while Ingenues have more rounded features, Gamines have a combination of sharp and soft features. Gamine is yin with a dash of yang whereas Ingenue is pure yin. Gamines don't look as "innocent" as Ingenues, they have a kind of mischievous look to them. They're more likely to be cast as the troublemaker who plays silly pranks than the goody two shoes. Ingenues tend to have round faces overall whereas Gamines have more angular faces with pointy chins with smaller eyes and lips. They have a tomboyish charm.

L to R

Park Boyoung & Jun Jihyun- Gamine

Shu Qi & Ni Ni, both Ingenue

Zooey Deschanel, IU & Ariana Grande- Gamine

I wanted to juxtapose Shu Qi & Ni Ni with some Gamines because I feel like because of their features they can be mistyped as Gamines even though they're Ingenues.

One distinguishing trait is their rounded foreheads, this is a very youthful trait because we associate it with babies. Another is how their overall features are rounded not angular, pointy or sharp. They also do not seem "naughty" or "mischievous" looking. Their faces seem softer more delicate as opposed to the Gamines.

[saltpepperbeard]

hi everyone how are you feeling very-

[odo-apologist]

Don't get me wrong, I hate These are the Voyages... and everything it stands for but it is funny to me that Riker practically grilling the crew about Trip sounds like this

[iphisesque]

trying to get into kitchener essences and suffering no less than christ on the cross because of it

[amateur-heretic]

Aesthetic Aspirations Personality Typology Intimate Layer Quiz V. 0.1

Link to the quiz: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/11iD1quPwGY8VLVn9O52BWl9svmpDDoqHyouyZgROo9k/edit?usp=sharing I'm excited to announce AAPT has it's first quiz available to be taken! For those unfamiliar AAPT is a personality typology I developed. Its inspired by Yin and Yang based styling systems, experience of various different personality typologies, and my experiences as a gnc, queer, and neurodivergent person. AAPT tries to capture different kinds of inner beauty via 7 Aspirations in a body-neutral and gender expansive way. I hope the typology encourages people to explore autonomy over different ways of moving, creating, and loving. To learn more about to interpret your result, I've linked an introductory post about the typology below (after I've written it I've since renamed it from AEPT to AAPT). I plan to eventually make a series that goes into each of the inspirations in detail and should give a better idea about each aspiration implies. To take the quiz, please open the sheets file above, and duplicate the file. You can then read the instructions and fill out the answers column. Your type should be generated in the Result sheet. AAPT includes the ability to devalue an Aspiration, but that is not currently a feature included in the quiz at this time. If anyone has any questions or comments, I'd be eager to hear them ^_^ (image from https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Sunrise#/media/File:Lilienstein-sonnenaufgang.jpeg)

[unproduciblesmackdown]

oh yeah also have to shout out the young queer theatre-enjoyer (as doer or audience) with christian parent experience of "at least i can be in the choir & be one of like 2-4 tenors & enjoy singing harmonies & most of practice is just chilling b/c it's 95% playing the melody 50x for the twenty sopranos who still don't have it down" while also not having to deal with sitting in the midst of the pews or whatever

[backontrackdiary]

I don't know about you but those personal style theories didn’t do a thing for me

[treasurehuntergem]

Reflecting on dressing for my body in the spring…

If you haven’t read the first post in this series, start here.

Spring was a bit bleh for me style-wise due to a number of factors - cooler than usual weather, a hectic schedule, a budget, fluctuating weight gain due to my autoimmune disorder, and not being able to find the kind of clothes (mostly tops) when I was able to shop. But, I still learned a lot.

My spring takeaways

Why the fuck are they still out here making women’s pants with no or faux pockets?

Me and vertically patterned or colorblocked short-sleeve tops get along so well together. But they’re so hard to find.

I continue to have a blast pattern-mixing with a neutral palate, much to my shock.

But I’ll never stray too far from my colorful DNA. This neon color-block look tempered with black combat boots was one of my favorites from an unseasonably cool day.

No matter how much I try out flamboyant gamine looks, the Natural/Bohemian and the Ethereal essences are LOUD. Beyonce yelling in Olive Garden on ‘Girl’ loud. Reference the purple close-up pic and you’ll understand.

Speaking of said Ethereal essence, I realized that the best dresses on me are actually maxi dresses. The Kibbe Kult would need a fainting couch at reading that a short person dare to sport a long line, but maxis work for me with colorblocking, other patterns, or subtle textured details. I need more for next spring.

I got some new summer blouses that are clutch. I debuted a couple in the spring (see the salmon top/turquoise pants pic), and I can already tell they’ll be a dependable staple. Ethereal Essence jumping out with the sheerness and slight drape with a faint “aht aht” from Flamboyant Gamine, making sure the top still had some structure/shape via the neckline and the vertically-centered subtle piping.

Onward to summer, where I continue my search of natural whimsical printed short-sleeved or sleeveless blouses with enough structure to sate my flamboyant gamine overlord, and ankle pants WITH POCKETS for the office.

[randomfoggytiger]

Kitchener Essences: Gillian Anderson

The Kitchener Essence Types, created by John Kitchener, is most often used in conjunction with Kibbe Body Types: once one knows what flatters the lines and contours of their body (Kibbe), then the rules can be shifted a tad to enhance an aspect of their personality that might seem at odds with the traditional understanding of Dramatic, Natural, Classic, Romantic, and Gamine body types.

THE KITCHENER ESSENCE SYSTEM

Kitchener's methods follow the same path that Kibbe took, carrying on the fashion models from previous stylists but tweaking them to focus on specific areas. While Kibbe created a system that works best with the "science" of the body (height and yin-yang balance of the skeleton, muscles, and flesh), Kitchener's was based solely on a person's essence: their vibe, if you will. It focuses heavily on one's face to determine Essence-- the exact opposite of what Kibbe teaches (faces are a notoriously unreliable indicator for an overall body type); but both methods work in harmony with one another, one picking up right where the other left off.

Kitchener's Essences include Dramatic, Natural, Classic, Romantic, Gamine, Ingenue, and Ethereal (also known as Angelic.)

A person contains more than one Essence, creating a blend of primary, secondary, even tertiary (or more) characteristics that allow them greater range to express themselves. The primary essence dominates their "personality", and therefore their style and outfits; the secondary complements the primary essence to a lesser degree; and the tertiary can take up the rear as an additional small touch to a completed look (hairstyle or earrings or purse or shoes or scarf, etc.) It's a system built on gut intuition, balancing the percentages of this or that Essence to successfully zero in on the whole.

DESCRIPTIONS

To keep this as uncomplicated as possible, I will be quoting and pulling screenshots from Ellie-Jean Royden's video here-- a perfect primer-- but also highly recommend any and all Gabriella Arruda videos on the topic: she's great at creating real life examples of Kitchener/Kibbe/Seasonal palette wardrobes for her clients.

Dramatic

Yang Dominant (strong features), sharp, narrow, theatrical, wildness, boldness, extravagance, danger, extreme or vivid coloring, high and sharp cheekbones, feline or tilted or close set eyes, sharp jawline, thin lips, angularity, high and sharp cheekbones.

They can look quite harsh... as if their faces are coming right "at" you as compared to Ethereals, which are drifting "away" from you.

Dramatics dress best in unconventional or unusual patterns and textures, suits, asymmetry, straight and narrow silhouettes, extravagance, oversized shapes and patterns, chunky accessories, animal prints, bold colors, and shine. When they dress creatively or in unusual styles, rather than looking "crazy" they look quite self-assured and confident and quite elegant.

Natural

Yang Dominant (strong features), relaxed, casual, down-to-earth, easy-going, sportive, laidback, earthy, outdoors, approachable, wildness, girl next door, modelesque, asymmetrical features, wide as compared to narrow and sharp, toothy smile, blunt jaw, close set or smallish eyes, lack "perfect" balance.

This Essence is what Kibbe's Naturals are often mischaracterized as: the "approachable, Mother Nature, outdoorsy" vibe rather than the strictly long, strong, blunt skeletal structure of Kibbe's method.

Natural clothing lines are quite simple: they're comfortable, they're oversized, they're relaxed.... Earthy, sportive. They all look quite elegant in informal and loose-fitting styles (whereas on other Essences this will look quite sloppy....) They look good in irregularity, in asymmetry, steadiness, long lines, unstructured shapes and interesting textures.... They will look good in original shapes-- for example, a stone necklace... that hasn't been carved into a perfect circle. They look good in slouchy, unruly styles-- relaxed. They look good in layering. Earthy colors, earthy tribal or bohemian patterns, and denim as well.

Gamine

Yang Dominant (strong features), boyishly cute, playful, dramatic, creative, whimsical, quirky, rebellious, youthful, "childlike", large eyes, large forehead, small nose, round or square face, pixie-like youthful sharpness, impish, small and sharp.

...Gamines would look best in boyish styles (like rolled up jeans, t-shirts, suspenders, fitted clothes.) They'll often look most feminine in short hair, like a pixie-cut-- especially when it's tussled. When they poke at fashion and try styles which don't conform... also in whimsical, creative things. They look good in minimal jewelry because [it's] often so feminine. ...But if the jewelry was something whimsical-- like ice cream earrings-- that would look really cool on a Gamine. They look good in hoodies: they don't look like they're wearing children's clothes, they look quite cool. Lots of detail, like pockets, buttons, geometric prints, high-contrast colors. Details should be small and compact rather than large and oversized. The [have a sense of] "tussle" and "motion" that comes through in their clothes... a zigzag would be a good example.... They look good in playful styles; in tailoring when styles are straight and narrow; in a sort of mix-and-match...; vintage and retro styles. In all of this, they will look cool and self-assured rather than odd or strange.

Classic

Neither Yin nor Yang Dominant (symmetrically blended features), formal, elegant, conservative, timeless, not one feature "jumps out" over another (neither large or small, nor close together or far apart), minimal detail, smooth and controlled lines.

The less detail in [their] clothing, the more of their beauty that you see-- they really shine against minimal detail.... They look good in smooth and controlled lines. They become more memorable as everything else is "stripped" away. They look good in timeless looks-- it doesn't look boring or outdated; tends to look very elegant and chic. You could even describe them as looking regal... in these styles. They look good in symmetry, balance, neutral colors, and quality fabrics.

Romantic

Yin Dominant (soft features), sensual, luxurious, indulgence, glamor, softness, alluring, lush lips, smoldering or large eyes, narrow jaws, possibly large foreheads, a rounded face, dark or red hair brings out their Essence more.

To dress for Romantic Essence, you would dress in lots of detail-- especially feminine details. Ruffles, ruching, draping... clingy fabrics, those sorts of lush details. They look good in elaborate, large, and luscious hair; ornate jewelry; ...clothes that are figure hugging, and draped, and in clingy fabric. When they dress in glamorous looks, it doesn't look like they're trying too hard-- in fact, it looks the opposite: it looks completely elegant and not overly sexy on them. They look good in large, floral prints. In indulgence. In soft, flowing, and draped fabrics. ...With gathering, with sheen, with luxurious fabrics like velvet and silk. They look good in lace, and the color red.

Ingenue

Yin Dominant (soft features), innocent and youthful femininity, girlish, sweet, cute, gentle, pretty, "childlike" innocence, delicate, idealistic, small-scale, delicate, small and round face, possibly small chin, small nose, round and wide-set eyes, plump lips, round cheeks, curly hair or tight curls, joyful smiles, adorable.

Lines: ...very cute, youthful, delicate, intricate, decorative, small, "innocent." ...Small bows; tiny flowers; headbands; puffed sleeves; short, flouncy dresses-- they should look pretty and playful. Delicate, compact shapes (like Gamines look good in small, compact smiles. But instead of being playful and boyish, it's playful and girlish.) Pretty trimmings like ruffles and bows. Whimsical patterns, pastel colors, lace, and vintage designs.

Ethereal

The most Yin (and Yang) of the Essences: femininity that's neither youthful nor sexual, purity, maturity and wisdom, ancient old souls, unusual looking, "passionless" sort of beauty, looking inwards, ancient, otherworldly, very elongated facial features, possibly very round and wide set eyes, angelic, embody stone angel sculptures, elongated 'S' curve that is very subtly and tightly rounded (a lily compared to a Romantic's rounded and lush rose shape), oval or sculpted faces, low contrast and saturation, "drifting away", uncanny, almost "inhuman" in appearance.

There are various facets to Ethereal Essence and how to bring that out. ...Very otherworldly, celestial styles look good-- also, pure styles. A lot of wedding dresses would look great... because they're low contrast (they're white, they're often sheer), they're long.... They look good with plaits and braids because, again... of that 'S' curve: they're very elongated but with roundedness. They look good in metallic and sheen. In soft diagonal lines, like handkerchief hems. They look good... in anything fluttery. They look good with abstract, winged creatures like fairies or birds. Watercolor looks really good.... Abstract prints. Anything shimmery or with iridescence. They look good in celestial styles, like stars and moons, with mermaid shapes. Layering looks really when it creates that "waterfall" effect. (There's definitely a tie between Natural Essence and Ethereal Essence: a lot of what looks good on one will look good on the other. But Natural Essence is a lot "harder" than Ethereal Essence.) Anything that's draped, elongated, sheer: it gives an impression of an angel.

HOW TO ASSESS AN ESSENCE TYPE

It's not often that one's relaxed, resting face matches up completely (or sometimes at all) with their true personality. However, it is what others notice in a glance and make an assessment off of. Furthermore, most people's moods can't be up or down enough throughout the day to completely do away with their neutral expression, no matter hard how they may try in either direction.

Therefore, we look for as neutral an expression as possible; then cross-reference that person against each Essence trait to narrow down possibilities.

GILLIAN ANDERSON

I see a lot of people place Gillian in either Kitchener's or Kibbe's Classic categories. Since, however, her body falls into Kibbe's Theatrical Romantic category (post here)-- short, wide-ish, delicate bones with a touch of angularity-- that leaves us with Kitchener as a last resort. So: is she, or isn't she?

Luckily for us, GA wore a lot of red, which means we'll pretty much have a matching shade of some sort to cross reference in each category (or for all the categories she learned works for her, at least.)

What Gillian Is Not

Classic

Ironically, the worst Essence for Gillian is Classic: dressing down to dress up does not jive at all with GA, making her appear older, unfinished, and lackluster-- even in silhouettes that flatter her Kibbe body type.

The last look is somewhat redeemed by its accompanying accessories, her hairstyle, and the length of her dress (to be discussed below.) It's an easy trick her stylists use on various "Classic" gigs: most of her jewelry is either very blingy or very long and understated, drawing the visual line away from their client's simplified hairstyle and bloodless outfit.

Gamine

Gillian's second worst Essence is Gamine: yes, it plays into her short limbs, short torso, short legs; but the expression on her face, when neutral, clashes with the vivacious energy of her silhouettes.

Gillian appears most in her skin in the middle picture-- though it still looks like's she's promoting a stage production of Peter Pan-- mainly because of the feminine makeup and the red of her wrap (we'll also get to that below.) Even then, the photographer still toned the clash down a little by highlighting the sharpness in her features: pivoting the softness of her fleshy arms behind her body; popping her shoulders forward; and angling the shot around them, her collar bones, and her jaw.

Ingenue

Gillian's third "worst" Essence is Ingenue: small, girlish details seem at odds with her longer facial features and resting expression.

However, GA is able to pull this one off better than Gamine and Classic because of her inner personality, shining through with a wide smile or genuinely delighted, carefree laughter. The photographer skillfully tapped into that part of her in the third shot especially: but, again, she's posed and photographed very carefully.

Natural

The last of the "worst": Natural isn't too bad on Gillian; but it doesn't rest comfortably on her, either. The length of the silhouette matches the length of her facial features (which is what we're ultimately measuring against); but too many relaxed layers weigh her down and ultimately drown her.

Again, Gillian's expression in the middle photo helps her pull of the approachable, easy-going "vibe" a Natural Essence gives off. When straight-faced, however, she looks more disheveled than approachably chic.

What Gillian Is

Dramatic

GA can pull off the sharpness and theatrical drama of the Dramatic Essence in small, tertiary doses: sharp heels or a flamboyant bag or statement earrings, etc. Too many elements together and the clothes start wearing her, turning her into an overdone fashion mannequin.

In the first picture, Gillian is decked out from head-to-toe in a Dramatic outfit; and we've lost the essence of Gillian immediately with her makeup style and her hairstyle and her shoulder pads and her severe V-neck and her stiffly tailored suit dress and her statement heels. In the middle picture, Gillian is more toned down but is suffering from two things: not enough accessories (ala the Classic Essence) and too much severity with her hairstyle and stiff dress. In the last picture, Gillian looks the best; but the stiff tailoring, while aesthetically pleasing, overwhelms her best features with the addition of her shoes and hair. The stylists were clever here, too; drawing out more angularity with her pose (enhancing her side profile, for example) and hiding away her softness (framing the shot around a side-to squat)-- magic that looks cool in a photoshoot but would play out differently in real life.

Romantic

Gillian has Romantic as her secondary Essence. Not only is she enhanced by figure-hugging silhouettes, but sexy outlines don't appear over-sexualized or apart from her. An added bonus: red is the one color most Romantic Essences can pull off without a hitch as it adds to their allure more prominently than it detracts from their seasonal color palette. And that is likely why she wears it a lot.

Romantic Essence mellows the Dramatic touches in her face, giving her softer lips and cheekbones; large, wide, expressive eyes; and free reign to express herself as luxuriously, richly, and sensually as she wants without appearing overdone or gaudy.

Ethereal

Probably not a huge surprise; but nonetheless, Gillian's primary Essence is Ethereal! Her long facial features, thinner than average nose, and sculptured-out-of-marble profile combine to create a timeless, unageing, descended-straight-from-the-heavens angelic essence.

It explains why Gillian, despite being 5'2" and having the Kibbe Theatrical Romantic trait of short and wide limbs, appears taller and lankier than her true proportions: more intimidating, more commanding, and more austere externally than what is actually passing through her head (as she's remarked recently.) Ethereal Essence gives her the ability to pull of longer, drapier, "heavier" silhouettes than is normally advised for Theatrical Romantics' everyday wear.

All Together

Combining all three of Gillian's Essences, we get some very striking looks from her.

From what I've seen, Hannibal and The Falls do an excellent job of combining all three of Gillian's Essences: buttery soft silks, sheer or luxurious or draped fabrics, rich reds (and pinks), delicately elongated silhouettes, lightly tailored outfits, cinched waistlines, perfectly balanced sharpness and softness, etc. Scully from The X-Files gets a wardrobe upgrade in Season 3; but it's not until Season 4 that the pieces begin to gel together organically.

When GA dyes her hair darker or red, the allure of her Romantic Essence comes to the fore without eclipsing her Ethereal Essence. When GA dyes her hair lighter or blonde, her Ethereal Essence shines brighter without erasing the influence of her Romantic Essence.

CONCLUSION

I'm done! Hope everyone has fun.

Thanks for reading~

Enjoy!

[youremyheaven]

Dramatic Essence & Makeup pt 2

I thought I'll make a post about how Dramatic Essence becomes more evident when someone who has it wears makeup (this is especially true if you have both Dramatic & Romantic essences) and how they can look a bit washed out or plain without makeup.

Lisa

Lisa is gorg and makeup helps enhance her Dramatic essence, without makeup she looks younger and cuter

Selena Gomez

Like Lisa, Selena also has Romantic, Dramatic & Ingenue essence and without makeup, the Ingenue essence is more evident than the Rom-Dram one

Rihanna

Even Rihanna has the same combination of essences and the drama ✨💅🏼 becomes more evident when she makeup on

Elizabeth Gillies

Makeup helps enhance sharp features we have. Without makeup we're all Yin and with it our Yang is more apparent.

Odeya Rush

Look at how her features pop with makeup?? She already had sharp features but with makeup they became even more obvious.

Ni Ni

Makeup doesn't have to be heavy for this to work. Even soft makeup can accentuate features.

before you say "everybody looks better with makeup" 🙄🙄no they dont

Aishwarya Rai

granted that some of these are just the wrong seasonal colors on her, i still think Aishwarya Rai is one of those people who look better with minimal makeup. in the middle pic, it's just some eyeliner and some lipstick thats similar to her natural lip color and she looks amazing.

Deepika Padukone

the way her Dramatic essence jumps out with makeup is amazing. you can almost always tell whether or not someone has Dramatic- Romantic essence based on whether or not they look good with a smokey eye look

Haifa Wehbe

she's stunning either way but the smokey eye really makes her eyes pop even moreee

[lilisouless]

Okay, right now i am having a fixation for the Kitchener essences (not the kibbe body types i would NEVER understand those) i am barely learning about it (you can google it until you get the result that does it for you but this is one of the many sites that talk about it THIS, is the answer. The 7 Style Essences { face types} - YouTube )

And it made me figure out a theory why we are often so dissapointed or at least weirded out for some character casting on adaptations. Like, the character and actor are not too far appart on appareance but you just say "i don't see it"

Sure there is the fact that tumblr people have very high (and suspiciously eurocentric in some cases) beauty standards, but on the other hand i don't want to act like this feeling doesn't happen to me, unfortunately we all have bias and relate certain physical traits with personality traits , sometimes it can have bad implications but sometimes these are harmless and are about things we (i use this word a lot) call "the vibes" and unless there are hints on the book itself, is very hard to guess a character´s physical vibe from their description.

i think most of us are inclined to think on fictional characters, specially those called "pretty" as having an ethereal essence , something that can't exist in real life because , unless is told , people don't always imagine characters with facial imperfections or traits so subtly common you wouldn't take in count unless studying a picture. Or lets say you didn't imagine ethereal essence exactly , but someone (which happens to me a lot) unconsiously you imagine with a certain essence and their actor plays them perfectly but there is something that feels "this is not the same character"

I am mostly rambling with myself, this is pretty much me trying to understand some of my feelings in certain cases and figure out why some things happen and share it so people would tell me "hey, that makes sense" or "Lili, get some sleep"

Also another reason is that maybe, just maybe some of my moots are also interested (or maybe, are experts that can shut me up) on these because i kind of , would love to make polls about this and some fictional characters and actors (you know this is grishaverse related) but would be kind of awkward if i was the only one into that.

[conatic]

J'ai mangé deux croques-monsieur avec de la sauce brazil dans la cuisine de l'institution psychiatrique ouverte. Ce n'est pas le même pain 🍞 que d'habitude. J'ai acheté une autre sorte de pain 🍞 à la pompe à essence Lukoil.

Je vais me préparer un café ☕ avec du lait.

[nekochan4eva]

Tell me this isn’t a blend of

Ethereal + Natural + Romantic

Dream Girl

Makeup Tutorial

[annbourbon]

Body & Style Archetype through History

Books on the topic:

♡ Art and Fashion in Clothing Selection by Harriet Tilden McJimsey

** "Your New Image" and "Color Me Beautiful" correctly credit Belle Northrup's Yin Yang types chart in Harriet McJimsey's book "Art and Fashion in Clothing Selection" all editions.

♡ The Arts of Costume and Personal Appearance by Grace Margaret Morton, Bess Steele, Carolyn Ruby

♡ Art in Clothing Selection by Harriet Tilden McJimsey

♡ The Story of Costume told in pictures by Belle Northrup

♡ Color the essence of you by Suzanne Caygill

♡ Color me Beautiful by Bernice Kentner, Carol Jackson

♡ Your new image by Pinckney & Swenson

For now that it's all. But I'll come back with more♡ if you want to add something you can drop it in the comments or reblog♡ I'm eager to see whatever you have to say.

[bunnyboy-juice]

idk how to explain it but there's something so satisfying about watching tv in my kitchen with my laptop in the counter while sitting on my little stool