#japan does not allow crowding at the airport so that’s a plus

[accio-victuuri]

you all might have been seeing news that yibo will be going to tokyo 5/31 for a chanel event. nothing is confirmed and this is gonna be like the LA trip where we will know when he is already at the airport leaving to Japan. so yeah. Yibo world domination tour is happening. && Thank you to Chanel for inviting him to these events. I hope they post on their IG soon so we can get more details and content. You all know what to do.

[cdelphiki]

There Are Worse Ways to Spend Christmas

Honestly, holiday travel was the worst, in Tim’s opinion. The absolute worst thing on the face of the planet, and an all around terrible way to spend time right around Christmas.

Between crowded airports, snobby entitled irate passengers, and frequent weather cancellations, traveling during December was probably the worst thing ever.

And yes, that was very much exaggerating, because Tim’s mind immediately supplied several things that had happened that year that beat flying near Christmas in the ‘terrible’ category, but he just wasn’t in a good mood, so he was going to be dramatic about it.

Bruce wanted the lot of them to meet up at the cabin in Colorado to have a nice, quiet Christmas with just the family. Which, on paper, sounded nice. Christmas with all the kids plus Alfred and Bruce, far away from Gotham and the social engagements they’d be expected to attend otherwise sounded incredibly relaxing.

But that was before Tim processed that he’d have to fly with Damian, commercial, to Colorado to meet up with everyone else.

Why?

Because his family hated him, obviously.

The private plane was currently in Japan, where Bruce and Alfred were finishing up a series of meetings at the Tokyo office, and since it would be bringing them to Colorado that day, it was unavailable to bring Damian and Tim, the only two left in Gotham so close to Christmas, to Colorado. Stupid school lasting until the Friday right before Christmas Eve, which was on a Monday that year, meant they couldn’t have just left early to allow the jet to bring them all.

No.

Tim Drake and Damian Wayne had to fly commercial. On Christmas Eve eve.

First class, of course, but on small little regional jets, first class was a paltry comparison to the comfort to which they were accustomed. And the whole “unaccompanied minor” thing was really grating at Tim’s nerves. Because Damian wasn’t unaccompanied. Tim was right there. He was 16, and according to the airline’s policy, that made Damian accompanied. But that didn’t stop the stupid flight attendants from being extra attentive.

At least they were being left relatively alone during their layover in Chicago.

Which was how Tim found himself curled up into one of the kind-of comfortable waiting chairs near their gate, playing a game on his iPad, completely ignoring his little brother. It was the most peace he’d had all day. He could still see Damian over his knees. Kind of. Saw his spiky hair in the next seat over, at least, so he wasn’t being entirely neglectful.

But Damian wasn’t bothering him. Wasn’t trying to pick a fight or release his frustrations on Tim, so Tim was going to enjoy every single second of it.

Then, of course, the gate agent had to ruin the entire night.

“Attention passengers, Flight 1029 to Aspen has been delayed,” she announced over the speaker, and Tim couldn’t make out the rest of her announcement over the loud chorus of groans from everyone around them. Because the flight was supposed to begin boarding in about 10 minutes.

His phone buzzed with a notification from the American Airlines app, which informed him that it was delayed by three hours.

“This is ridiculous,” Damian pouted, hitting Tim’s legs with his coat as he slung it off himself to stand, “the third weather delay today. You would think airlines would be used to flying in the snow. It’s not like it doesn’t happen every year.”

“It’s one of those dumb named storms,” Tim said, scrolling through the weather report in Aspen to see if in three hours it would be any better, “it’s basically a blizzard.”

“That does not change my opinion,” Damian drawled, rolling his eyes as he stared out the window directly behind Tim.

“So because hurricanes happen every year, pilots should know how to fly through those? Get real, Damian.”

“Tt. It’s just snow.”

“Snow and wind and zero visibility,” Tim said, flipping to the Hilton app to reserve a room at the airport’s hotel. The weather report wasn’t looking good, and he had a feeling that the flight would be outright cancelled. If that happened, he wanted a room in the airport. He’d rather not deal with crowded shuttles to an off-site hotel once the airport finally cancelled all the flights to the areas being assaulted by Winter-storm Fisher.

Seriously, why the hell did they name snowstorms now?

Tim reserved the room under Bruce’s name, because it would be impossible otherwise to get a room for a 10 and 16 year old. The hotel really didn’t need to know that Bruce wasn’t even in the country and wouldn’t be staying with them.

“Damian?” one of the gate agents said, as she approached the two of them in the waiting area, “So the flight has been delayed by-”

“Yes, three hours. We are aware,” Damian snapped, “As I keep telling you people, I do not require your hovering. My father did not request the unaccompanied minor service, so I do not see why you are providing it anyway.”

“We are just ensuring that-”

“I don’t care,” Damian said, waving a hand at the woman as he turned to gaze out the window again.

Tim just shrugged at the slightly flustered woman and offered a simple, “Sorry. We’re tracking though, thanks.”

“Tt. I am never flying commercial again.”

“Bold declaration for 10,” Tim said, just before he sighed and sat up. It was nearing 6pm. They should probably go grab dinner while they had the time, on the off chance that the flight actually did happen.

“I am a Wayne, if I want to fly exclusively by private jet, there is literally nothing stopping me.”

“Except Bruce hogging it,” Tim said, shoving his iPad and headphones into his carry-on. For the first time, he was so glad Alfred had convinced them to pack into carry-ons instead of with checked luggage. He enjoyed the freedom and ease of traveling with just a simple messenger bag to carry around, but knowing that they had their clothes and toothbrushes with them was a relief. They wouldn’t be buying ridiculous Chicago themed clothing tonight in one of the overpriced gift shops.

“What are you doing?” Damian asked, eyeing Tim as he slipped his boots back on and tied them.

Instead of answering, Tim asked, “Chili’s or the Macaroni Grill?” as he stood to his feet, attaching his coat to the top of his luggage.

Damian straightened up a bit, to Tim’s amusement, at the prospect of food and shuffled to gather up his items as well. “The Macaroni Grill,” he finally said, making a face at the suggestion of Chili’s.

Dinner went a lot smoother than Tim was expecting. In fact, the entire day until that point had gone smoother than he expected. Even with leaving for the airport at 5am and spending nearly every moment since together, the two of them really hadn’t fought much. Every once in a while Damian would make a scathing remark, but would then be quiet for at least half an hour after he did so.

It was nice.

“Why’re you being so good,” Tim asked over their pasta. They still had a little over two hours until boarding. Perhaps he shouldn’t be looking this gift horse in the mouth, but he was genuinely curious.

“I know how to behave in public, Drake,” Damian drawled, pushing around the last bits of his dinner on his plate before taking a sip of his soda.

Aside from the fact that Damian did not know how to behave in public, that really didn’t answer anything.

“Besides,” Damian continued, “our every move is being watched here, and Father told me if we get arrested by security for any reason he’s holding me personally responsible.”

“He did not,” Tim said, grinning wide.

Damian scowled at Tim and snapped, “That was not a challenge, Drake. I will inform Father if you sabotage our travel for the express purpose of getting me grounded.”

Tim just laughed and said, “Unlike you, I’m not a demon, I wouldn’t do that,” just as his phone started buzzing in his pocket.

When he pulled it out, he saw Bruce’s face staring at him. “Speak of the devil,” Tim muttered as he slid to accept the call, “Hey Bruce.”

“I see your flight has been delayed again. How are you two holding up?”

“Let me talk to him,” Damian said, reaching out for the phone.

Tim swatted Damian’s hand away and said, “We’re fine. Annoyed, but we went ahead and got dinner. I know we were supposed to eat together there, but you know.”

“We had to land in Seattle and won’t attempt again until morning, anyway. Dick and Jason got in just before it started to snow, and Steph and Cass are still in the air, but I don’t think the flight will make it to Aspen. So most of us won’t get there until tomorrow, anyway.”

“Yeah, I’m expecting American Airlines to just cancel to try again tomorrow,” Tim said, taking one last bite of his food, “so I booked us a hotel tonight just in case.”

“Let me know if you have trouble checking in. The storm is moving across the country toward you, I would not be surprised if O’Hare cancels flights tomorrow as the storm passes over you there.”

“Great,” Tim said dramatically, leaning back in his chair. Damian was just glaring at him expectantly, “Damian wants to talk to you.”

“Okay. Stay safe and just be patient. Delays and cancellations are better than plane crashes.”

“Yeah, thanks for that thought,” Tim said just as he handed the phone off to Damian.

“Father, I refuse to fly commercial ever again, this method of travel is-” Damian started, then paused and listened with a pinched face, “Yes, but- No. No.”

Tim tried his best not to look too amused as Damian went from smug and entitled to adequately chagrined as he listened silently to Bruce for a full minute. Bruce must have lectured him pretty hard.

“Fine. But I will not fly commercial at Christmas. This holiday is ridiculous and the number of people in this airport is unacceptable. Yes, Father. I will. Goodbye.”

“Sounds like you will be flying commercial again,” Tim said in amusement as he took his phone back and pulled a $100 out of his wallet to give to the waitress to cover their meal and her tip.

“Shut up, Drake,” Damian mumbled as he dragged his suitcase behind him in the most pout-filled way Tim had ever seen.

And that’s how the rest of the evening went. Silently as Damian pouted. As their departure time came and went without so much as a boarding call, Damian began getting antsy.

“This is the fourth time they’ve delayed us by 15 minutes,” he exclaimed after yet another announcement over the PA system, “this is unacceptable.”

“You know they’re going to cancel the flight, right?” Tim said, turning the page in a book he’d picked up in the airport bookstore, “We’ll probably sit here another 30 minutes while they continue deluding themselves about not cancelling a flight on Christmas Eve eve.”

Damian let out an angry growl, which just sounded like a child throwing a tantrum, and flung himself down on the chair next to Tim. “I hate this.”

“Take a nap,” Tim said as he pulled his coat out from the chair under him to let Damian use it as a pillow, “I’ll wake you when they decide what they’re doing.”

“I will not take a nap,” Damian pouted, “I’m not tired, just frustrated.”

“You’ve been awake since 4am, you’re tired.”

“So have you.”

“Yeah,” Tim said patiently, “but I took a nap after lunch, so.”

“I will not take a nap,” Damian repeated, aggressively grabbing Tim’s coat to lay against.

“That’s fine,” Tim hummed, trying not to smile as he continued reading.

“And Christmas Eve eve is not a thing,” Damian mumbled, burrowing himself down into Tim’s coat with his own wrapped around him, “stop being ridiculous.”

“Of course it’s a thing,” Tim said, lifting his feet up onto his suitcase so he could get settled back a little more comfortably, “It’s what today is.”

“Hmph.”

It took another 45 minutes, but finally the flight was outright cancelled. By that point, everyone was too exhausted to put up too much of a fuss, and the groans heard around the gate were more out of obligation than actual anger. Tim had heard several people all around him make arrangements for the night already, so this was clearly no surprise to anyone.

Tim took his time using the hotel’s app to “check in” before he began gathering up his things. He put his boots on and shoved his book and tablet back in his bag before he finally nudged Damian.

“Okay, Demon, nap’s over.”

“I was not napping,” Damian mumbled, rubbing at his eyes as he sat up.

Tim grinned and liberated his coat out from under Damian. “No you’re right you were just resting your eyes.”

“Shut up, Drake.”

Checking in was remarkably easy. When Tim told the person at the desk that ‘his dad had checked in on the app,’ he was easily handed a couple keys to the room without a single question.

Tim took his time in the shower as Damian lay on one of the two beds in their room, watching the news report. When Tim finally emerged from the bathroom, Damian said, “Much of Colorado is without power right now, and the storm is expected to hit the midwest just as hard.”

“Well isn’t that just dandy,” Tim said as he dried off his hair, “you packed a toothbrush and stuff, right?”

“Yes, Drake, I am not incompetent.”

“Right, whatever. Take a shower if you’re going to, I’m going to sleep. The flight is scheduled for 8 so we need to get out of here absolutely no later than 7, preferably earlier. We’ll have to pass through security again.”

“I hate everything you just said.”

Sighing, Tim set his phone to wake him at 5:45 while he listened to Damian slam the bathroom door.

Being responsible for little children was just so fun.

Next thing Tim knew, his alarm was going off. He sat up to find Damian already awake and watching the Weather Channel on mute. It took blinking for a minute before he could make out the numerous notifications on his phone, but the one he had wanted to find the least was another delay notification.

Now the flight wasn’t going to attempt until 10.

“The storm hit early,” Damian said, glaring at the television as if it were responsible for everything going wrong in their travel.

“Well do you want to sleep in longer or get breakfast?” Tim asked, rubbing at his face. He’d enjoy sleeping more, but he had slept for a good 6 hours. It was certainly more than he was used to.

“Breakfast,” Damian said simply, “I was waiting for you to wake up so we could order room service.”

“We could go get something. There’s time now.”

“Look outside. I’d rather stay here where it’s warm and dry.”

“Right,” Tim said, picking up the room service menu. After he called in their order, he looked at the weather report for the day and went ahead and extended their stay one night. If this storm cancelled all flights leaving Chicago, it would be much more difficult to get a room. Bruce honestly wouldn’t care about spending the money unnecessarily if their flight really did take off at 10.

But of course, it didn’t. At just past 8, they received the notice that the flight was cancelled.

Bruce called again, within minutes of Tim getting the text, to check up on them and assure them that the family wouldn’t do Christmas until Tim and Damian made it to Aspen.

“I’ll come pick you up myself,” Bruce said over speaker, “The weather should be fine tomorrow, I’ll head to the airport and get you boys, okay?”

“Tt,” Damian pouted from where he lay on his bed, arms crossed and glaring at the ceiling, “If you ever suggest I travel alone with Drake again, I will return to Mother.”

“Ouch,” Tim said, “he’d rather live in a ninja death cult than travel with me.”

“Damian,” Bruce sighed, “I’m sorry, but we’ll extend our vacation out until after the New Year, okay? I’ll make it up to you.”

“He’s pretending to ignore you,” Tim said, grinning at the scathing look Damian shot his way for the comment, “he’ll get over it.”

“The pilot wants me to turn my phone off, so I’ll text you when we land. How about we all FaceTime tonight, okay?”

Tim nodded. “Yeah, that’ll be good. Dick wanted us to watch The Polar Express tonight, we can always just do it while facetiming. I’m sure I can find a copy somewhere around here.

“Okay, Merry Christmas, boys. I’ll talk to you soon.”

“I can’t believe it’s Christmas Eve and I’m stuck in a snowstorm with you,” Damian said once Bruce had hung up, still glaring up at the ceiling.

Shrugging, Tim said, “There’s worse company.”

“Doubtful.”

“Don’t worry. Santa will still deliver your presents to the cabin tonight.”

That finally made Damian sit up, but only to throw a pillow at Tim. “Santa’s not real, Drake.”

“Now you’re ruining my Christmas,” Tim said, laughing, as he caught the pillow, “You’re probably on the naughty list, anyway.”

“Tt.”

“You’re not exactly good,” Tim continued, having fun now at Damian’s expense.

“Shut up, Drake,” Damian snapped, throwing another pillow at Tim.

“Or nice.”

“Shut up!”

“Actually, yeah,” Tim said, laying back on the bed, “there’s no way you’re not on the naughty list, now that I think about it.”

At that, Damian got up from his bed and stormed over to the bathroom, slamming the door as he went. Tim jumped at the loudness of it, then frowned.

He hadn’t meant to push the brat that far. He’d just been teasing. Having fun. Sometimes, Tim forgot for as much as Damian could dish it out, he couldn’t take teasing. At all.

It was easy to forget. Especially when they went a few days without fighting.

‘Help,’ Tim texted Dick, ‘made D mad. Probably crying in bathroom. What do?’

The response was almost instant. ‘You made Damian cry?! Tim, why??’

Tim sighed and responded with, ’I mean, maybe? I haven’t tried to listen in on him or anything. He might just be pouting.’

‘Did you try talking to him?’

‘Why would I do that?’ Tim asked, smiling at himself because he already knew what Dick’s response to that would be.

‘You want to fix it but you don’t want to talk to him.’ And Tim could just see the flat stare Dick would have while delivering that sentence. Hear the deadpan in his voice.

Tim snorted. ‘Precisely. Glad you understand.’

‘Tim.’

‘Yeah, fine. Good big brother, coming up.’

After another minute, Tim finally got up and trudged over to the bathroom door. When he knocked, he could tell something was pressed up against the door, and was willing to bet his entire salary that it was pint sized and 10-years-old.

“Hey D? I was just teasing, you know.”

“Go away, Drake,” Damian hissed from the other side of the door.

So he wasn’t crying, at least. That’s good.

“Uh yep, nope. Can’t,” Tim said, sitting down on the floor outside the door, “The room isn’t big enough.”

Tim could just barely hear Damian’s signature ’tt’ in response.

“I wasn’t trying to upset you,” Tim offered, unsure of where to start. Or how to even do this. He’d been the little brother being talked down, never the older brother doing the talking down.

“Weren’t you?” Damian drawled.

“No, I wasn’t,” Tim said, resting his head back against the door, “I was just teasing you, that’s what brothers do to each other. They tease. You should know, you tease me constantly.”

“I do not tease you.”

Tim rolled his eyes and said, “No, of course not. You just make fun of me in hopes of getting a rise out of me. That’s totally not the definition of tease.”

“Then you admit you were trying to upset me.”

“Fine. I’m sorry, Damian,” Tim said tiredly, and perhaps a little too flippantly in his tone, “I shouldn’t have said that stuff, okay? You’re probably on Santa’s nice list. He’ll bring you presents tonight.”

“Shut up, Drake,” Damian snapped, banging something against the door. His elbow, perhaps. “I do not care about that ridiculous tradition.”

“If you aren’t upset about me saying you’re on the naughty list, then why are you upset?”

“I have been very good the past couple days,” Damian nearly shouted, “and the past year. I have worked so hard to behave myself and be what you and everyone in Father’s family would consider good. But at every turn, everyone, especially you, completely ignores all my actions and efforts and writes me off as a ‘bad person.’ I am sick of it.”

Tim blinked and ran a hand through his hair. “I wasn’t… writing you off,” he said lamely, “I was just teasing you about Santa. I know you’ve been good.”

“Then why would you say I’m not?” Damian demanded.

“It was just a joke,” Tim said, a bit more forcefully this time, “it’s just what you do at Christmas with kids. You tease them about Santa and being on the naughty list. Did the league not do Santa?”

Damian huffed out an annoyed breath and said, “The league didn’t do Christmas. So no, we didn’t ‘do Santa.’”

“You… didn’t do Christmas?” Tim said, in almost a whisper. He really wasn’t sure if Damian could even hear him. “So wait,” he added, much louder, “is this your first Christmas then?”

“Yes,” Damian bit out before slamming his head back against the door. At least, Tim as pretty sure that’s what Damian hit the door with.

“Does Bruce know this?”

After a long moment, Damian sighed and said, in a much calmer tone, “Maybe. I do not know what Father knows.”

“You should have told him,” Tim said softly, like he was talking to a victim as Robin, “He would have cancelled his meetings in Japan, I bet.”

“I don’t see how it would have mattered. It was my first Christmas here, regardless of everything, and he still left me with you.”

“Well,” Tim said, “In his defense, we were supposed to see him yesterday, so this isn’t entirely his fault.”

“I guess,” Damian said, softer than Tim had ever heard the child’s voice be.

The two of them sat there for another few minutes while Tim just frowned at the closet door in front of him. The annoying closet door that was actually a full sized mirror. So basically, Tim was staring back at himself, looking right at the terrible person he was. That he’d been over the past couple days.

Thinking back over their travel time, Damian really had been good. He’d been trying really hard to keep it that way, even when Tim teased and poked at him, or just flat out ignored him. And all because he didn’t want Bruce angry with him over his behavior. Which, usually wasn’t an issue for Damian. He never seemed to care when Bruce threatened him with grounding.

And Tim had barely acknowledged the effort.

Was Damian just trying to stay on Bruce’s good side because it was Christmas? Because he wanted a happy Christmas, just like how the holiday was always depicted in media?

Damian was only 10, after all, and all he had to go on was television.

Tim felt the bathroom door open behind him and leaned forward a bit to prevent from falling back. Damian stood in the doorway and glared at Tim using the mirror before saying, half-heartedly, “Move, Drake.”

“So if you’ve never celebrated Christmas before,” Tim said slowly as he got to his feet, “that means you’ve never done a Christmas movie marathon.”

“Thankfully,” the little brat drawled as he pushed past Tim into the bedroom.

“What Christmas movies have you already seen?” Tim asked, completely ignoring Damian’s likely feigned disinterest.

Flopping down dramatically onto his bed, Damian said, “What part of ‘first Christmas’ don’t you understand?”

“So you’ve never seen any Christmas movies?” Tim asked in exaggerated horror.

Damian just shrugged.

“Frosty the Snowman?” Tim asked, and when Damian shook his head, he said, “Rudolph the Rednose Reindeer? How the Grinch Stole Christmas?”

“No, Tim,” Damian exasperated, “none of them.”

“Oh my god,” Tim said, “Okay. That’s what we’re doing today. Starting with The Year Without a Santa.”

“Whatever.”

After a quick trip to one of the shops in the airport to purchase candy canes and a ridiculous amount of candy and cookies, because no Christmas movie marathon would be complete without a coma-inducing amount of sugar, Tim started up a playlist of all his favorite Christmas movies on his laptop.

Four movies into the marathon, Damian said from where he lay beside Tim on the bed, “These are ridiculous, you know?”

“I know, isn’t it great?” Tim said, opening another bag of Oreos for them to devour. Alfred would have a heart-attack if he knew they skipped lunch and were going to skip dinner in favor of cookies. Store bought cookies.

“I suppose,” Damian said as he took a couple cookies from the bag between them, “there are worse ways to spend Christmas Eve.”

Tim didn’t even have to look to know Damian was smiling as the opening scene to Elf began to play.

Yes. There were much worse ways to spend Christmas Eve.

-

Cross posted from AO3. 

[morningfears]

Lost In Japan

Rating: PG-13 | Mentions of abortion (indirectly)

Summary: Celebrity!Reader | You and Ashton have been together for about a year. You knew that things would get harder with you both being on tour and promoting new albums. However, you didn’t expect hard to become life altering. (In simpler words: Reader gets pregnant, finds out right in the beginning of her tour, and flies to Japan to tell Ash because she’s freaking out.)

Word Count: 3.8k

Part Two | Part Three

The silence that envelopes the pristine hotel bathroom following the harsh beeping of the stopwatch on your phone feels more deafening than the roar of the loudest crowd. It’s overwhelming, it pools in your lungs like water and threatens to drown you, as you stare at the multiple pieces of white plastic lying on the tile floor in front of you. Each one displays a perfect blue plus sign, just as prominent as the diagram suggests, and each one seems to mock you louder than the last as your heart begins to race.

You think, absentmindedly, that it’s amazing how a single piece of plastic could feel so heavy as you pluck one from the cool tile with shaking fingers. You never would’ve imagined that holding something so small could feel like holding the weight of the world in your palm but it does. It feels like you’re holding your entire future in your hands and, as you stare down at that little blue plus sign, you feel as if that future is fading fast.

You stare down at the little piece of plastic for far too long before you whisper a pathetic, “Positive,” that may as well have been a shout with the way that it rings through the heavy silence.

The moment the word leaves your lips, the moment it’s spoken into the air around you, it feels as if reality comes crashing down around you. The moment the word is spoken into the air around you, you become uncomfortably aware.

You’re uncomfortably aware that you’re alone, sitting on the floor of a hotel bathroom in Seoul and thousands of miles from home. You’re uncomfortably aware that you’re staring at a multitude of pregnancy tests purchased by a staff member that you’re not sure you’ve ever met because you and your closest staff couldn’t risk being seen purchasing them lest someone sneak a picture. You’re uncomfortably aware that the adrenaline rush from the concert you’d performed earlier in the night has long since faded and has left you with an overwhelming exhaustion.

You want nothing more than to crawl into the plush bed waiting for you and sleep for the next year but you know that you can’t. You have a packed schedule and barely any time to breathe, let alone wallow in misery. You have a show in two days. You have months left of touring. You have weeks of album promotion still ahead of you.

You have the next year of your life booked solid and the year after that well on its way to being just as full.

As you stare down at the little piece of plastic between your fingers, you realize that you can’t do this. You realize that now is nowhere near the right time to have a baby. You’re too young to be a mother; you’d always told yourself you’d wait until our mid-twenties. You’re at the peak of your career, riding high on a wave of success, and you’re not ready to give it up or slow it down. You’ve just begun a new tour, just released a new record. You’re living your life to the fullest, enjoying your time traveling the globe and living your dream.

You’re not ready to be a mother yet.

The longer you stare at the little piece of plastic, the stronger your headache becomes. The pounding behind your eyes has you nauseous but what truly turns your stomach is the thought of telling Ashton. You realize, as you drop the little piece of plastic back onto the tile with a shuddering breath, that the two of you have never discussed children. You’ve never discussed the future at length and your heart drops to the pit of your stomach as thoughts of Ashton fill your head.

You know that Ashton wants children, you know that he wants as many as his partner is willing to give him, but what you don’t know is whether he wants those children to be yours. You don’t know how serious this relationship is to him. You don’t know if he sees a future with you. You don’t know if he wants a future with you.

The doubt swirling in your mind, the insecurities and uncertainties filling your head, sends you crawling across the tile floor toward the toilet as your nausea finally gets the better of you. It has you emptying the contents of your stomach, has the tears spilling down your cheeks, and you know that you won’t be getting any sleep. 

So you gather the tests and shove them back into one box before you push yourself up off the floor, brush your teeth, and grab your phone off the bathroom counter. You stare at the device for a moment before you make your decision. You can’t tell Ashton over text, can’t tell him over the phone. This is something that has to be done in person and you’re only two and a half hours away by plane. The sooner he knows, the sooner you’ll be able to decide what you’re going to do and get some sleep.

After a moment’s hesitation, you hit the ‘call’ button by Ashton’s name and hope that he picks up.

“Doll,” he cheers after a few short rings, his voice light and happy over the sound of music playing in the background, “how was your show?”

“I need to see you,” you breathe, your voice sounding foreign to your own ears, “in person. Can I come there? It’s only two and a half hours and I need to talk to you.”

You hear movement, hear the sound of a door closing and the music fading away, before you hear Ashton’s voice once more. “Are you okay?” he asks, his tone concerned. “Is everything alright?”

“I don’t know,” you laugh, your voice hinging on hysterical, “I have no idea. I just.” You pause, take a deep breath and swallow the lump forming in your throat, before you continue. “I just need to see you,” you breathe. “We can talk when I get there.”

Ashton is silent for a moment and you think he’s going to tell you that this is a bad idea but, to your relief, he breathes an affirmative. “Okay,” he agrees quietly, “I’ll meet you at the airport. Let me know when you leave and I’ll be there. How long are you staying?”

“Not long,” you sigh as you take a seat on the foot of your hotel bed. “I have press the day after tomorrow and then the day after that, I have a show in Busan. I just really need to talk to you and it can’t wait.”

Ashton nods hesitantly, remains silent for a moment, before he remembers you can’t see him and breathes, “Okay. I’ll see you in a few hours, then.”

“I’ll see you in a few hours,” you agree before you pull the phone away from your ear and end the call.

You stare at the device in your hands for a moment before you breathe a heavy sigh and grab your purse. It’s a little after midnight, you’re desperately tired, and all you want is to fall into bed but you know that this is the right decision. You know that telling him immediately, talking to him and having him help you figure out what to do, is the right decision. And you repeat those words to yourself the entire flight to Tokyo.

As you stare out into the darkness, you’re uncomfortably aware of the racing of your heart. You’re uncomfortably aware of the sinking feeling in the pit of your stomach and of the trembling of your fingers. You’re uncomfortably aware that you’re about to have one of the most important conversations of your life, one that will literally decide your future, and the thought of getting off the plane and baring your soul to Ashton has you fighting back tears.

You love him, you know that you do. He’s your perfect match. He’s headstrong and intelligent, talented and driven. He’s unafraid of honesty and will never hesitate to communicate his feelings. He’s loyal to a fault and the most loving person you’ve had the privilege of being with. But you’ve only been together for a little over a year and a chunk of that has been spent with the two of you balancing your relationship and work as best as you could.

You feel so selfish as you stare at the lights of Tokyo coming into view but you can’t help thinking that now is the time to be selfish. You’re both young. You’re both at the peak of your career. You’re both traveling the world, living your dream, and you know that you wouldn’t want him to ask you to give that up.

Why should you get to ask him?

The moment you touch down, you can identify the beginnings of an anxiety attack and you feel as if your heart is going to beat out of your chest. You feel as if anyone looking hard enough could see the cartoonish outline of a love heart through your shirt and it makes you sick to your stomach as you clutch the sleeves of your hoodie and step off the plane.

Just as he’d promised, Ashton is waiting for you in the terminal and wraps you in a warm embrace the moment he’s able. Neither of you speak for a long moment, he simply holds you tight to his chest and allows you to breathe in his scent and ground yourself in the warmth of his body. You would’ve stood there all night, spent the few hours you have in Tokyo wrapped in his arms, but the clearing of a throat has you pulling away from him and grabbing his hand as you’re ushered out of the airport.

Neither of you speak in the car on the way back to his hotel. He holds your hand, rubs circles over the back with his thumb, but doesn’t press. Instead, he watches your face as you take in the city lights. He can’t help the soft smile that lifts the corners of his lips as he watches you grin despite yourself at the city he knows you love so much. If he wasn’t so worried as to why you hopped on a plane and flew to and a half hours just to spend three, at most, with him, he would suggest the two of you get lost in the city like you’d always wanted. If he wasn’t so worried that this would be the end of your relationship, he’d suggest that the two of you look over your schedules and make plans to return for a few days, no work obligations to hinder your fun.

But there are so many thoughts swirling through his mind, so much doubt filling his gut, that he can’t speak. He has no idea where this night will take the two of you, has no idea what it will mean for your relationship, so he opts to hold your hand. He intertwines your fingers and memorizes the feeling of your skin against his as he watches the neon lights flicker across your face for the duration of the ride.

He’s glad that you waited so late to call him, knows that it would’ve been much harder than just climbing out of the car at the front door had it been earlier in the night, as the two of you enter the hotel. He can feel you dragging behind him, can see the exhaustion in your eyes, and it shakes him. He knows you’d rather be in bed, knows your adrenaline rush from performing has faded, just as his has. But he also knows that whatever you need to talk to him about is weighing heavily on your mind.

You’re running on autopilot, he notices as he pulls you into the elevator and presses the button for his floor. He can see the blank look on your face as you stare at the walls of the elevator. You haven’t even flinched at the metallic grinding noises of the elevator rising in its shaft. And he almost doesn’t want to take you to his room but he does.

He leads you out of the elevator and down a corridor to his hotel room. He tosses the clothes he’d already managed to scatter around the room back into his suitcase and takes a seat at the foot of the bed. He watches you pace in front of him for a moment before he reaches out and gently grasps your wrist.

“You can sit,” he reminds you gently.

“I feel better pacing,” you breathe, the first words you’ve spoken to him since the phone call hours ago. “I’m sorry if it’s making you nervous.”

Ashton nods, the pacing is making him nervous, but he doesn’t address it further. Instead, he gently prompts, “You said you wanted to talk.”

“I don’t even know where to start,” you sob, your sweatshirt covered hands moving to cover your mouth in an effort to muffle the noises. “I’m sorry.”

“It’s okay, doll,” Ashton breathes as he stands and pulls you flush against his chest. One hand rests on the back of your head, cradling it into his chest, as the other wraps around your waist and holds you tight against him. “It’s okay,” he repeats, “just breathe. Deep breaths, okay?” When he feels you attempting to draw in shuddering breaths, he breathes a sigh of relief and begins rubbing your back as he continues, “Take your time. I’m not going anywhere. Just talk to me when you’re ready.”

The feeling of his body against yours, the heat rolling off of him and the comforting weight of his hands on your body, has your heartbeat slowing to an acceptable pace and your breathing returning to normal after a few moments. However, even when you’re able to stop the sobs and the shuddering breaths, Ashton keeps you in his arms. He allows you to wrap your own arms around his waist as you search for the words you want to say.

When every coherent thought you’ve ever had slips your mind, when every word you’ve ever known fails you, you opt for the simplest explanation of your odd behavior that you can muster. “I’m pregnant,” you whisper, your words muffled by his chest but still clear enough to be understood in the silence of the room.

Ashton’s hand stills against your back and you can feel the movement of his chest as the air is knocked from his lungs. He’s still for a moment, silent for far too long, before he continues rubbing your back as if he’s a movie that’s just been taken off pause. His movements are slightly jerky, you can feel his hands trembling even through the fabric of your sweatshirt, but he doesn’t speak and that scares you more than anything.

“I need you to say something,” you breathe as you pull back just enough to see his face, “anything, would be great.”

“Are you sure?” he questions, his voice quiet and thick with emotion. When he feels you nod against him, he releases another heavy breath and loosens his grip on you. “I have no idea what to say,” he sighs heavily as he releases you from his grasp and returns to his seat at the foot of the bed. “I don’t…” he trails off for a moment before he clears his throat and continues, “I don’t know what I can say.”

You nod slowly as you cross the small space between the two of you to take a seat beside him. “You can tell me what you’re thinking,” you whisper, your own voice hoarse from a combination of lack of use and tears.

“What are you thinking?” he questions, turning his head to face you. “You looked so,” he pauses for a moment, searching for the right word, “broken when you came in. What’s going through your mind?”

“We’re too young for this,” you whisper, staring down at your hands that are folded in your lap, “I’m too young for this. We’re both so busy and we’re only getting busier. You just got off an extended break, you can’t take another one so soon. We both just released albums and started tours. We haven’t even talked about kids. I don’t know if this is the right time, Ash.”

Ashton is silent for a long moment as he takes in your words. Rationally, he knows that you’re right. He knows that right now is far from the right time. He knows that you’re both too busy and that it’s too soon. But he wants this. He’s always wanted this. And he tells you as much, just as quietly as you’d spoken your own thoughts aloud.

“I love you,” he informs you as he reaches out to cup your cheek and turn your head to face him. After you return the words quietly, he takes a deep breath and spills his thoughts. “I know we haven’t talked about it but I would like children with you. I know, rationally, that you’re right. I know that now’s not a great time. We’re both so busy and it’s not fair for either of us to have to stop living our dream. We’re both young, I get that. But do you think we could make this work? Somehow, do you think there’s a chance we could do this?”

You search his face for a long moment before you sigh and shrug. “I don’t know,” you whisper, your voice thick with tears, “I don’t know if I even want to, Ash. I want kids, yeah, and I would love to have them with you but right now? We’ve only been together for a year and a lot of that year has been spent apart. There’s so much we would have to do if we wanted to have this baby. We would have to find a place to live together because neither of our places are suitable for children. We would have to tell friends and family when we literally just told our parents that we were dating a few months ago. We haven’t even officially confirmed our relationship, Ash.” You pause for a moment before you whisper, “I think it’s too soon.”

Ashton knows that you’re right, he knows that every point you’ve made is spot on, but that doesn’t help the anxiety bubbling in the pit of his stomach. “Does that mean…?” he trails off before he clears his throat and tries again. “Are you going to…?”

“I don’t know,” you whisper, the tears beginning to fall once more, “I don’t know what to do.”

Despite the overwhelming sadness flooding his veins like icy water at the thought of losing this baby before he even has the chance to meet them, Ashton reaches for you and tugs you back into his embrace. “It’s okay,” he whispers, his voice just as wrecked as yours, “it’ll be okay. You don’t have to decide right now.” He pauses for a moment, allowing you to catch your breath, before he continues. “We have two weeks until we both have a break and will be home. Can you hold on that long?” he questions, his voice soft as he rubs your back gently. “That gives us both time to think about it and we’ll be at home when a decision is made.”

“Okay,” you nod, “two weeks. That feels like both too much time and not nearly enough time.”

Ashton wants to laugh at this, wants to nod his head in agreement and press a kiss to your forehead, but he doesn’t. Instead, he hums his acknowledgement before he gently untangles his arms from around you. “You should get some sleep before you head back to Korea. I know you’re exhausted,” he whispers, his thumbs brushing your cheekbones before he places a kiss to your forehead.

Ashton stands and pulls back the covers on the bed before he settles beneath them and gestures for you to join them. The moment you’re tucked into his side, his arms wrapped tightly around your waist and hands resting on your hips to avoid touching your stomach, you feel your heart break. You could see the hurt on his face, could hear it clear in his voice when he couldn’t even say the word, and it hurts your heart to know just how upset this makes him.

But you’re not certain you can handle being a parent. Not right now. And you’re not certain he can handle it either, despite how much he clearly wants it.

So you push the thoughts to the back of your mind, focus on the feeling of Ashton’s skin against yours, and attempt to fall asleep in the arms of the man you love.

Beside you, Ashton lies awake. He listens to the soft sounds of your breathing, feels your heart slow from the rapid thumping to a resting beat, and he wants to feel at ease. But he can’t bring himself to feel anything other than panic and sadness. Knowing that you’re carrying his child, knowing that his dream of becoming a father and having a family is within his grasp, should be the best feeling in the world. But knowing that you don’t want this, not right now, is weighing heavily on his chest and forcing the air from his lungs.

He doesn’t want to lose you, doesn’t want this relationship to end right now, but he’s not sure he’ll be able to stay if you make the decision to terminate. Because he wants this baby. He wants to have a family and he wants that family to be with you.

He’s trying desperately not to get attached to a baby he doesn’t think he’ll ever be able to hold but he can’t help himself as his hands drift to your stomach. His fingers are gentle, soft and careful as he slips them beneath the hem of your hoodie to brush over your bare stomach. He can’t feel anything yet, knows that he may never feel a bump there, but that doesn’t stop him from caressing your skin.

“I know that you probably can’t hear me yet,” he begins, his voice thick with emotion and barely audible, “but I’m your dad. I don’t know if we’ll get to meet but I hope we will. Is it crazy that I already love you? I hope your mom decides that we can do this. I want to do this. I want to hold you and love you. I want to teach you to play the drums and take you to soccer games or dance class or whatever it is you want to learn. I want to be there for you. I want to love you and I want you to love me. I hope we get that chance, little one. I hope we get the chance to be a family.”

Author’s Note: I love angst. Wow.

[toloveawarlord]

Little Rich Girl (Ch. 3)

You can find my other works here!

Present:

              The plane hadn’t landed yet when I woke up. The trip from New York to Japan was supposed to take like 13 or 14 hours, but it seemed like a lot longer than that. Rubbing my temples, I yawned. Back then I got sick a lot. Probably from not having a lot of food or shelter during the harsh winters. That had been the first time someone else had taken care of me. My mother used to avoid me, saying that she can’t work if she’s sick, and usually mumbling about how it would be better for her if I would just die from the sickness.

              Minami had his laptop out, intently working on something, a frown on his face. “Where are we?” I asked, stretching my limbs over my head. With no response, I sighed. He must be really busy for him to be completely zoned out. Sometimes I wished I could help him, but my knowledge of business and management was basically nothing.

              “Bexley.”

              I nearly jumped out of my seat at his sudden outburst. “Yeah?”

              His green eyes rose from the computer screen to meet my amber ones, disapproval in them. “Why is your tutor emailing me to tell me that you skipped—”

              Turning my head away to stare out the window, I cut him off, “I told you that I don’t like it.” Him, the tutor. He was always frustrated with me and rushed through a lot of the material. I had a hard time keeping up.

              “Bex, you promised you would try,” Minami said, dropping the angry dad act.

              Sighing, I still refused to look at him, because if I did, then I would probably give in. “I did try.” I tried for a solid three days with that mean tutor. It must have been because he knew about my past as a street kid. A lot of people disliked me because they thought I’d somehow forced Minami to take me in. It was the exact opposite. Minami was the one who kept pestering me. I chewed on my lip. “I… I want to go to a normal school.”

              The plane was silent for a moment.

              “Why the sudden interest?” Minami asked.

              I shrugged my shoulders. “I’ve just been thinking about it.” It’s kind of lonely when Minami is busy with work. I could have friends if I went to a school, and maybe I’d learn more that way.

              Minami pushed the lid of the laptop down halfway to be able to look at me better. “Okay, tell me.” He patted the empty seat beside him. He’s always surprised me in how he handled absurd requests. I thought parents would force their decisions on their kids, but he’s not like that. Minami listened to me and let me figure out the best course for myself through discussion and research.

              Sitting Indian style in the chair beside him, I brushed my bangs out of my face. “Don’t normal kids go to school? Didn’t you?”

              Minami laughed at me. “There’s a good percentage of kids who are homeschooled and considered normal, so you’ll have to do better than that.”

              I chewed on my lip. “I haven’t given it that much thought.”

              He nodded his head and smiled. “Okay, I hear you. Then how about the rest of the trip, we can look into it together. There’s a lot of things I know you’d dislike about a normal school, but if you’re really sure it’s what you want, then I see no reason not to allow it.”

              And, he was right. There were things I hated. Having to go every week day and getting up early. The day was longer than when I worked with the tutor. Apparently, there are a lot of rules that I would have to follow. None of that appealed to me, but the other things did. I could make real friends at the school. There’s clubs that I’d never heard of, and some of them sounded fun. I didn’t even mind wearing a uniform if it wasn’t too hideous.

              Once a decision was made, Minami laid down the rules for me. “No skipping classes, and if you choose to do this, then you’ll stick with it till the end of the year, okay? There won’t be any more dropping out just because you don’t want to do it anymore.” I figured he’d say something like that. After going through at least twelve tutors, eventually Minami would have to make that a rule.

              “I can do that,” I said with as much confidence as I could muster. Running away was an instinct for me… a habit that Minami had spent years breaking me out of.

              “Then I’ll get you enrolled. Since I’m planning on being in Japan for a while, I don’t want to put off keeping you in school,” Minami said, already in business mode. The school we’d decided on was close to the Royal Shining, but it was a bit pricey on tuition. Though, none of that bothered him. He’d already pulled out his phone and began making the calls.

              I shook my head and laughed. Nothing is impossible when you’re a Kira, I suppose. Enrolling meant that I’d have to stay in Japan for a whole year. While Minami had become comfortable with working overseas, there would be times that he’d have to return to New York… without me. But that’s the sacrifice I’d have to live with in making this decision. My mouth dropped open when Minami set his phone down after only a mere ten minutes. “You can’t be done already.”

              Minami grinned brightly. “They’re eager to have a Kira enrolling in their school. Our family does donate a good portion of money to them each year, too. They are sending a uniform to the hotel as we speak, and your first day will be Monday.” He faked being sad. “You’ve grown up so fast.”

              “Oh, stop it!” I laughed, pushing away his hands as he reached to pinch my cheeks. He really is the best. I rocked forward to sit up on my knees and give him a hug. “Thanks, Minami. I really want to try this.”

              He twisted us side to side dramatically. “I’d do anything for my Bexley! I’m glad you’re trying something new. It’ll be good for you.”

              The captain dinged over the intercom. “Mr. Minami, we’re beginning our decent into the airport. Please fasten your seatbelts.”

              We’re in Japan already? That thought made my stomach turn. Starting high school was one thing but dealing with the whirlwind that was his family would come first this weekend. There was a big event happening Saturday night, and Minami told me that I had to come. He hated to go, too, so to make himself feel better, he said he wanted to torture me as well with the boring night. The only thing he offered me was that Mei was going to be performing, and I did enjoy hearing him play. He’s like a prodigy!

              By the time we reached the hotel, I had psyched myself out of going. Minami had his hand firmly in mine, pulling me toward the building. “I’ll just live in the cab for the next year. That would be fine, wouldn’t it?” I dread being here. There’s so many people in this huge lobby. All of them were staring at us, whispering. “Minami, you can let go of my hand.”

              “I can’t let my little Bex get lost in the crowd. Besides, I’m not entirely sure you won’t run away if I do let go,” Minami replied with a joking tone. Like he owned the place, he took me directly to the private elevator in the back. The doors slid closed with thud, and finally, he released my hand.

              The blood began to return to my palm. Shaking my tingling hand, I sighed loudly. “So, why did we have to come here again?”

              Minami shrugged. “A vacation?” He sounded unsure himself. Giving me his signature grin, he patted my head. “Don’t look so worried! You’ll be just fine! It’ll be good news that you’re starting at a high school. Plus, you get to spend all of tomorrow night with me in a room full of stuck up old men and women. Doesn’t that sound like a great time?”

              “Sounds like a disaster waiting to happen. Can’t I just stay in the room? I’m more of a Netflix and pizza on a Saturday night kind of girl,” I said. Comfy clothes. No one to judge how many episodes of a reality tv show that I’ve watched.

              “Nope, not an option. If I have to suffer, so do you,” Minami said as the elevator doors opened. Whisking me out into the hallway, there were voices coming from the lounge room. It was the other two who were the same age as Minami. “Hey Mac, Charles. Miss us?” His hands were on my shoulders, holding me tight enough that I couldn’t slip away.

              Awkward. It’s always so awkward when I’m around. It wasn’t that they disliked me, more like they disapproved of me. My nervousness took over. The only thing I could do was take a step back, my back hitting Minami’s torso. They’re so intimidating… Chiaki hadn’t even cast a glance at me, but Toma was staring, with those cold blue eyes. I gulped in slight fear. Minami squeezed my shoulders, a silent reassuring gesture. Staying in Japan for a whole year was going to much harder than I thought.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

And we’re caught up on Several Shades of Sadism too!

[tripstations]

Check your luggage or carry on? Readers have their say

(CNN) — Forget “Lord of the Flies.” If you want to see nature red in tooth and claw, lock a bunch of humans inside a pressurized tube for eight hours and see how quickly they divide into factions.

With check-in travelers on one side and carry-on devotees on the other, it’s a darn good thing weapons aren’t allowed in the airplane cabin.

We asked CNN Travel readers to tell us where they stand the on the great luggage debate, after two CNN staffers laid out the pros and cons.

Your answers were impassioned, thoughtful and informative. We had close to 500 responses, and they divided into three camps.

Check-in enthusiasts were the biggest group, at 37%, carry-on aficionados made up 33% of the feedback, and 30% of people said, “it depends on the trip.”

See what readers had to say below. (Responses have been edited for brevity).

Check yourself before you wreck yourself

Check-in fans love that they can glide hassle-free throughout the airport and say that it takes a lot of the stress out of traveling.

“I work for an airline and travel frequently. I try to pack light but always check in my bag, even if it is carry-on size, as I hate carrying luggage through security and the airport.” (Alketa).

Weight expectations

When traveling for long periods or to a cold climate, it’s difficult to squeeze all your goods into a carry-on. Also, plenty of travelers have special requirements — medical equipment, baby strollers, canes, you name it — and pared-down packing simply isn’t an option.

Then there’s the simple fact that some of us are bigger than others. “I am a pretty big guy and those rinky-dinky carry-ons just don’t cut the mustard for me.” (English on Delivery, Japan.)

Unfair policy

Many people have physical difficulties which simply prevent them from reaching up to put luggage in an overhead bin.

“Forcing the disabled, height-challenged and elderly to pay for a checked bag is discriminatory.” (Terry Schumann, Sylva, NC.)

“What to do when you’re a disabled person who must carry extras and/or replacement items in case something important is lost or broken? Two different airlines broke my rolling walker and I had to use a cane (tucked into checked luggage) until I found another. Airlines very, very often refuse to help.” (Austin, Texas.)

Liberate our legs

A common frustration of those who’ve checked in their bags is then being asked to put their carry-on bag under the seat in front in order to make room for carry-on passengers’ suitcases in the overhead bin. “Not only is this uncomfortable, but I’m potentially smashing anything in there with my feet,” Says Nick from Suburban Chicago.

Free the aisle

Our readers hate it when people block the aisle while loading or unpacking bags. “The overhead hassles (not to mention competition) are annoying at best and life-threatening at worst,” says Jim Steele, pointing out that it can hinder an emergency evacuation.

Check in and avoid the line

“I can afford to just wait out the boarding zone calls. I bide my time until all the overhead crammers are on, and finished (protecting my head from those people trying to catapult their carry ons above me).” (Lesley Peter, Yucatan, Mexico).

People love Southwest

Southwest Airlines is adored by some fliers for its check-in bag policies.

AFP/Getty Images/File

A lot of readers travel with checked luggage for free thanks to credit cards linked to airlines. There was also a huge amount of love for Southwest Airlines.

“I really wish that fewer airlines ripped people off with baggage charges, and more were like Southwest with their two free checked bags. If you’ve ever flown on Southwest you know that there’s plenty of overhead bin space and boarding goes faster even on a full flight because people can check a bag without paying through the nose.” (Dave Sturtz, Gold Hill, Colorado.)

Traveling for business

“In the past, carry-on was the smart business traveler move, but now EVERYONE has a carry on. Now you join the fight for overhead space, the hell that is the TSA check, and the dreaded wait in a unorganized line when they have gate-check.” (John Gibson, Omaha NE.)

Packing light and re-using clothing isn’t an option when you’re “trying to make an impression in a business environment. When your schedule is crammed, then you pack the same, leaving nothing for chance.” (Judith Ganes, Panama City, Panama.)

Gate check-in: The case for and against

“Any time I fly, I pack a carry-on. Once I reach the gate, the staff inevitably asks for volunteers to check their bags — for free (and I gratefully indulge).” (Jessalyn Goodman, Cincinnati, OH.)

“With low-cost airlines, there’s always a chance your carefully packed carry-on luggage gets thrown into check-in at the counter.” (Dr. Gopinath, Hyderabad, India.)

“The airlines have forced the current AWFUL situation. Most people know they can gate-check their carry-on for free, so now the gate area functions like the check-in counter used to, and the jetway is now like baggage claim. It’s crowded, slow, stupid, and just a terrible experience.” (Andrew, Madison, WI.)

Rhonda Howard from Chicago: “My vote is that everyone has to pay for their luggage… or no one does.” (Rhonda Howard, Chicago).

Checked luggage weight is important

“Pilots need to figure luggage weight into the weight and balance of the aircraft. Check your bags, give the pilots the data they need, keep a baggage handler employed, save your back, board with ease and slow down.” (Gina from Maryland, retired flight attendant.)

Keep calm and carry on

Sometimes checking those bags is the only option.

Getty/ Alexander Hassenstein / Staff

Show me the money

“I refuse to pay extra for something that was once free.” (Erika Orejola Orange, Ca.)

Save time

Carry-on aficionados love that they can arrive at the airport in extra-squeaky time and skip out quicker too. It can also make it easier to make a tight connection.

“E-tickets plus no check-in queues and no baggage claim let me shave at least an hour of airport experience each way. That’s worth every bit of inconvenience I have in needing to carefully fold my clothes.” (Stephen, UK).

Flexibility

“When flights are canceled/delayed, and you stand in line to be rebooked, they will often ask ‘Do you have checked baggage?’ If you are only holding a carry-on, they have more flexibility in re-routing your flights.” (Quin Wetzel, Cincinnati, OH.)

Derek from Florida got stuck in a bag-drop line for more than an hour and, having missed his flight, was put on standby. “I did not end up making it to my destination, as all flights were full. At least my checked bag had a nice visit to St. Louis, while I stood waiting standby at the airport.”

Board early

However, passengers said they had to board early — either by getting in line, buying priority boarding, or having airline status — if they were to be certain of getting their bags in the bin.

“The simple fact is that the higher your status on the airline the sooner you get on the plane. The low status/no status passengers will be checking their bags at the gate.” (Art, USA).

Take back control

While check-in fans love feeling liberated from their bags, carry-on devotees say they enjoy feeling in control of where they and their luggage are going and when. Smart packers had plenty of tips to offer, from ziplock bags to packing cubes to solid conditioner for hair.

“Wear your nicest outfit on the plane. In addition to saving a lot of space, you tend to get treated better.” (H. Green, Chicago, IL.)

Paring down

“With a checked bag I usually end up with clothes/shoes I never touch, and realize when unpacking that I really didn’t need them.” (Sandy Tello, Houston.)

“It’s easier to navigate once you arrive at your destination. As a 5’1 solo traveler it’s not feasible for me to drag a suitcase nearly as big as me around cobblestone streets, subways and buses.” (Heather Shank, Louisville, KY.)

Keep luggage lovely

“Luggage is so pretty when you first buy it. By the time it’s made one trip in a cargo hold, it floats down the little conveyor belt in a baggage claim with dents, black marks, scrapes, and broken locks.” (Allison, Houston, TX.)

Precious things

A lot of people — especially those with expensive camera equipment or vital medication — like to keep everything close by.

“Whatever indifference airlines have towards their passengers, multiply it for their luggage.” (Joshua Mellin, Chicago.)

“On the rare occasion I have checked a bag and been separated from it, it’s nice to know I won’t die in some strange place without clean underwear.” (Chip Brown).

Once bitten, twice shy

“After you have had luggage not show up (in some cases never getting it back) numerous times you just ensure you will have it at your destination by carrying it on.” (Gail).

The squeezed middle

Around a third of people who responded said that there were a range of factors affecting their decision to go check-in or carry-on: price, duration of trip, time of year, whether they were packing gifts and so on.

And the main thing everyone had in common? A call for consideration for one’s fellow passengers.

Obey the rules

“I am enraged at the size of carry-ons people bring onto planes.” (Charlotte, Fairfax, VA).

“I had an experience in which a guy broke the luggage bin trying to close the door on an oversized case. It cost over an hour of delay to repair the bin.” (Mark A. Butterworth, Muscatine, IA).

Don’t hog the bins

“Unfortunately, there are passengers who have seats near the back of the plane who like to stow their carry-ons closer to the front so they don’t have to deal with them in the narrow aisles. Common courtesy would dictate that everyone place their carry-on in the compartment over their seat.” (Jim from Germany.)

Charge for carry-ons?

“I think airlines should charge for carry-ons and make checked bags free, to streamline boarding and deplaning.” (Frank Perch, Philadelphia). Diane in

“I would vote for seat-assigned, strictly size limited overhead compartments which cost money to book.” (Ruech, Munich.)

“The challenge these days is knowing what airline allows what. Gone are the days when virtually every airline had the same rules.” (Ken McLeod, Ayrshire, Scotland.)

An alternative

“I send my baggage with Federal Express etc to my hotel and back in a sturdy aluminum case. That way you can take anything.” (Fran Gerber).

The post Check your luggage or carry on? Readers have their say appeared first on Tripstations.

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[emilysn2019-blog]

If you’re visiting Japan for the first time and only have one week to experience the highlights, this day-by-day itinerary is for you. It focuses on Tokyo, Kyoto, and a couple of diversions rather than taking you on a whirlwind and superficial tour of the entire country.

For starters, we’d implore you to visit for longer than 7 days if you’re still in the planning stages of your trip and haven’t committed to travel dates, airfare, or anything else. However, we understand that not everyone has the luxury of unlimited vacation time, and a week in Japan is better than not visiting at all.

You’ll find some week-long Japan itineraries that include Tokyo, Kyoto, Mt. Fuji, Osaka, and sometimes more. To be perfectly blunt, that’s crazy. This frenzied approach doesn’t give you long enough to slow down and appreciate any of those places, and is really only good for a checklist approach to travel that allows you to say you’ve visited certain places. Suffice to say, we don’t recommend it.

Instead, we recommend focusing on Tokyo and Kyoto. These two cities are Japan’s most popular tourist destinations, and for good reason. They’re also excellent companion cities to one another, and are often described as the yin & yang of Japan. We agree wholeheartedly with that; there are a lot of great places to see in Japan if you have more time, but Kyoto and Tokyo are the unequivocal highlights.

A couple of notes from the outset. First, this 7-day Japan Itinerary does not require use of the Japan Rail Pass. While the Japan Rail Pass is normally something that we highly recommend, that’s only for itineraries that are 0 days or longer (we’ll have those soon!).

Second, this is a substantive 7-day Japan itinerary, meaning that neither travel day is taken into account. Including those bumps this up to 9 days, and that’s time you may or may not have. If you don’t have it, eliminate Day 3 followed by Day 7. If you have to eliminate Day 7, plan for a crack-of-dawn Shinkansen ride from Tokyo to Kyoto, and try to accomplish as much from Day 7 as possible the day you arrive in Kyoto…

Arrive Tokyo Narita or Haneda Airport – Arrival day is simply about landing, getting from the airport to your hotel, and crashing. If your flight lands in the morning or midday, you might try to head out to one of the more vibrant neighborhoods like Shinjuku or Akihabara for dinner. Most likely, you’re going to be exhausted and ready to crash the minute you reach the hotel.

Tokyo

Tokyo is home to some a ton of things to do, but there are few points of interest that are so iconic they rise to must-do status. By contrast, the essence of Tokyo is its eclectic neighborhoods, and filling your day by wandering around both halves of the city is the best approach to experiencing Tokyo.

By following our 2-Day Tokyo Highlights Itinerary, you’ll explore the neighborhoods of Harajuku, Shinjuku, Asakusa, Akihabara, and more. You’ll visit the Tsukiji & Toyosu Fish Markets, Sensoji Temple, Robot Restaurant, Tokyo SkyTree, and more…

Day : Western Tokyo – For most visitors, our first day in Western Tokyo will tour the familiar side of the city: Shinjuku, Shibuya, Harajuku, and Roppongi. These are Tokyo’s biggest neighborhood names, which contain the city’s most recognizable sights and architecture.

These are places you’ve no doubt seen depicted in movies, and this definitely the more popular side of the city for tourists. Even though this is a relatively laid back itinerary, we recommend getting up early (jet lag will likely ensure that, anyway!). There’s a lot to see in Western Tokyo, and you’ll walk and shop your way through some of the city’s most vibrant and eye-catching areas.

Day 2: Eastern Tokyo – For your second day, it’s on to Tokyo’s “low city,” which is also the city’s eastern side. This area is on the delta of the Sumida River and it’s what remains of the historic Tokyo, or old Edo. A lot of Tokyo tourists will spend multiple days in Western Tokyo, and a cursory amount of time in Eastern Tokyo, which is a mistake.

This side of Tokyo includes interesting districts like Kanda, Nihonbashi, Kyobashi, Ueno, Asakusa, Honjo, Fukugawa, and Akihabara. It also has what’s arguably a better-defined list of points of interest (rather than just neighborhoods to wander), with Sensoji Temple, Tsukiji and Toyosu Fish Markets, Ueno Park’s Museum District (and zoo!), and the SkyTree.

Day 3: Tokyo DisneySea – Full disclosure: we are huge Disney and theme park fans, and spend a lot of time here. With that said, we also think Tokyo DisneySea is a compelling option for anyone who is visiting Japan, not just obsessives like us. This is the most lavishly-themed park in the world, and nothing like the familiar castle parks you’ll find at Disneyland or Walt Disney World.

Tokyo DisneySea is also one of the most authentic Japanese places you’ll visit, which might seem like a contradiction given that it’s distinctly American. However, Tokyo DisneySea is incredibly popular with locals, and most tourists skip it due to preconceptions. Consult our -Day Tokyo DisneySea Itinerary or Tokyo Disneyland Planning Guide for more info on visiting.

Day 4: Shinkansen to Kyoto – Taking the Shinkansen (colloquially known as the bullet train) is a quintessential experience when visiting Japan, and it’s also extremely painless. Unlike flying, you can arrive to the train station whenever, purchase tickets from a machine, and be on your way all in under 30 minutes.

Once you arrive to Kyoto and get checked into your Airbnb or hotel, we recommend going right out and immediately doing things. Some high profile options our itinerary doesn’t include are Nijo Castle and Kyoto Imperial Palace. If you’re arriving later in the afternoon, instead consider Nishiki Market, Pontocho Alley, or Gion for dinner.

Personally, my favorite thing to do on my first evening in Kyoto is Fushimi Inari Shrine After Dark (pictured below). You’ll visit later in the itinerary, but that’s for sunrise. This is our thing to do in all of Japan, and it’s even better at night!

Kyoto

This 7-Day Japan Itinerary calls for 3 full days in Kyoto, which is less time than we personally like to spend in the city (our favorite in the world), but about perfect for most first-time visitors to Japan. For a step-by-step plan of attack, we highly recommend our 3-Day Best-of Kyoto, Japan Itinerary. That covers literally everything stop to make during your time in Kyoto.

As a general overview, this 3-day touring plan covers the highlights of Kyoto while skipping some (we think) overrated spots that are more difficult to access. It also features a ton of hidden gems and overlooked spots you’ll be able to slow down and appreciate. After all, the point of this itinerary is not simply to race around and do as much as possible. Quality, not quantity.

Day 5: Eastern Kyoto – This is our favorite day of the entire 7-day itinerary, and is essentially just a straight-line path along the foothills of Kyoto’s Higashiyama Mountains from the popular Kiyomizudera Temple in the south to the iconic Silver Pavilion in the north.

In between, you’ll cover a ton of ground, seeing the historic Higashiyama District without crowds (a rarity!), before visiting the underrated Kenninji Temple, strolling the Path of Philosophers, wandering the idyllic Honenin Temple, and making several other stops along the way.

Day 6: Western Kyoto – For this day, you’ll head to the opposite side of Kyoto to Arashiyama and Sagano district. Everyone here visits Tenryuji Temple and the Arashiyama Bamboo Grove (and you will too!), but we recommend superior highlights that are off the beaten path, like Okochi Sanso Villa and Jojakkoji Temple, among others.

You’ll also want to visit Japanese macaque monkeys in their mountainous habitat, have a traditional lunch, and see the area’s UNESCO World Heritage Sites before making your way north to the quirky and bizarre Otagi Nenbutsuji Temple.

Day 7: Central & Miscellaneous Kyoto – While the previous days in Kyoto have been temple and shrine heavy, this one takes a more balanced approach (if you’re feeling temple fatigue after Day 5, do this on Day 6 and Western Kyoto on Day 7).

You’ll still start your day with a couple of shrines and temples, doing a sunrise hike through Fushimi Inari to beat the crowds before enjoying the serenity of Tofukuji’s zen gardens, but this day also includes the Kyoto Railway Museum and Kyoto National Museum, among other things.

Depart Kansai International Airport – If it’s not cost-prohibitive, we’d highly recommend flying out of Kansai International Airport in Osaka rather than Narita or Haneda in Tokyo. Osaka is much closer to Kyoto, plus it’s a cheaper and (most importantly) direct train ride to the airport from Kyoto Station. If this isn’t an option due to cost (KIX can be a more expensive flight), you’ll want to purchase the Japan Rail Pass and use the Shinkansen to return to Tokyo.

If you have a later flight, consider exploring the area in and around Kyoto Station. There’s tons of shopping and dining within the station, so you can save that for your final morning. If you have even more time, consider visiting the nearby Toji Temple and/or Nishi & Higashi Honganji Temples, all of which are UNESCO World Heritage Sites. After that, you’ll head to the airport and conclude a whirlwind, but wonderful week in Japan!

If you’re planning a trip to the Japan, check out our other posts about Japan for ideas on other things to do! We also recommend consulting our Ultimate Guide to Kyoto and Ultimate Guide to Tokyo to plan.

Your Thoughts

Have you visited Japan? Which cities did you visit, and how much time did you spend in each place? What would you recommend to a first-timer visiting Japan? Any thoughts or tips of your own to add? If you’re planning your trip to Japan, what do you think about these itineraries? Any questions? Hearing your feedback about your experiences is both interesting to us and helpful to other readers, so please share your thoughts or questions below in the comments!

The post 7-Day Japan Itinerary appeared first on Travel Caffeine.

[nachtgraves]

Victuuri and 3 for the fic prompts?

Myroommate helped me brainstorm ideas for this and I learned a secret she hadbeen keeping from me for more than a year in regards to just how trash she is. As of this revelation, she has stopped hiding this facet of her existence and there’s a Love Live! event or something this week, so. The title is also courtesy of her, again.

Title: HEARTto HEART!: An Intervention // AO3Word Count: 2,450Tags/Warnings: PG. Time skip, future fic, established relationship,fluff, victor has a problem, yuuri is done, the title is a love live songPrompt: Rhythm

Yuuri’soutside Narita airport, staring at the arrivals display and waiting forVictor’s flight number to show up on the screen. He knows that Victor’s goingto be grumpy and disheveled and exhausted from his delay-ridden journey back toJapan from Geneva.

Victorhad the worst luck on his travels back. His first delay, from Geneva to Warsawwasn’t all that bad since it was only an hour and he had Chris to keep himcompany before he went through security. It was the two hour-turned-almost tenhour layover in Warsaw that Yuuri worried about. As great as having a Russianpassport is for travel purposes, Poland was not one of the many places in whichVictor could acquire a visa on arrival to kill time between his flights. Thepoor man was stuck in the Warsaw airport for almost half a day, right before aten and a half hour flight.

Victor’sflight number flashes on the display and Yuuri presses closer to the metalfence that is meant to keep family and friends and greeters away from thedoors. There’s a steady stream of people coming out of the airport – families,business people, tourists, couples – but no international figure skater. Yuuriclenches his phone in his hand, debating on texting or calling his fiancé.

“What’sgoing on?” Yuuri wonders as the arrivals trickle down to a few stragglers beforea new crowd comes through the doors. He gives Victor another ten minutes,another flight has landed and the crowds have thinned out again, before hecalls him.

“Yuuri!” Victor picks up almostimmediately, which only turns Yuuri’s worry into confusion.

“Whereare you?” Yuuri asks. “I was getting worried something happened.”

“Oh, sorry! I lost track of time.I’ll be out in a minute.”Victor hangs up before Yuuri can even open his mouth to respond.

Sureenough, Victor comes strolling through the doors within the next few minutes,his suitcase rolling behind him. Yuuri waves, feeling relief and happiness atseeing his fiancé after the last week or so of quick Skype calls that wereinterrupted by Chris and nosy Katsuki family members more often than not. ButVictor seems preoccupied by whatever he’s doing on his phone.

“Victor!”Yuuri calls out, hoping the Russian looks up. He’s on uneven footing. Victor’snever behaved like this when they haven’t seen each other for a while. Usually,Victor’s one of the first through the doors and engulfs a squawking, red-faced,Yuuri in a hug the Japanese skater enjoys but is also deeply embarrassed by,especially in public where there’s a chance people know his face, never mind Victor’s.

Victordoesn’t look up and nearly walks into a family clustered around their luggage,figuring out where they need to go.

Yuuriheads toward Victor, waving, and finally gets the man’s attention. “Victor!”

“Ah,Yuuri, I missed you!” Victor lets go of his suitcase and Yuuri is pulled into afamiliarly embarrassing embrace. He feels the hard edge of Victor’s phone athis back. Victor pulls back, his smile soft with fatigue at the edges, eyes ringedred, and darkened shadows set above his cheekbones. “Chris says hello. Hewished you could have come visit, too.”

“I’lltry to next time. And, uh, I missed you, too,” Yuuri says, cheeks warm despite thelate fall chill. He squirms out of Victor’s hold but doesn’t stray too far.“Come on, let’s go home. You can sleep in the car.”

Yuuritakes Victor’s bag from him and they head to the parking lot. Yuuko and Takeshilet him borrow their car so Victor and Yuuri wouldn’t have to deal with thetrain and being recognized. It’s not often an issue, but Yuuri would altogetherrather avoid any such possibilities. Plus, Victor could rest easier in the carthan in a noisy, hour long train ride.

Victor’sluggage goes into the trunk and Yuuri slides into the driver’s seat. Victor isbuckled in and on his phone again before Yuuri can even start the car. Whateverhe’s doing, he is completely focused. Yuuri has no idea what Victor could bedoing, but it looks like a game, with the way his phone is tilted and the rapidtapping motion of his thumbs.

“Whatare you playing?” Yuuri asks, most of his attention on the road, but part ofit, as always, drifting to the man beside him. He hasn’t seen the Russian innearly two weeks.

“Idownloaded this music game while I was stuck in Warsaw,” Victor says. Histhumbs tap faster before he curses in Russian and drops his phone in his lap.“It’s fun when it’s not frustrating.”

Yuurijust laughs, unaware.

It starts small. Victor playing onhis phone when they’re lounging around. When they’re waiting for their foodwhen they go out to eat. When Yuuri’s in the shower and Victor waits on the bedfor his turn.

And then it’s constant. Victor’shardly ever not on his phone. He’sgot his earbuds in his ears more often than not and he makes people wait until he’s done with a song torespond properly, especially if he’s on a super hard or whatever difficulty.

Yuuri doesn’t even know if Victorsleeps with how often he’s playing the game, but he’s fairly certain of theanswer to that question. He’s just afraid to ask and be right.

But it comes to a head when Yuuriwakes up somewhere around three or four, almost a week since Victor’s returnfrom Geneva. There was no real reason for him to wake up, and he could havefallen right back to sleep, but his ears pick up rapid tapping, as if someonewere texting in a rush with far too much aggression. Yuuri rolls over in bedand Victor is sat up against the headboard, earbuds in his ears, and faceilluminated by his phone screen. His brow is furrowed in concentration and histhumbs move rapidly against the screen. Yuuri’s pretty sure that when he wentto bed, Victor was on his side breathing deeply.

“Victor.” Yuuri says his name, inboth disbelief and complete bewilderment. Victor doesn’t hear him. “Victor!”

“One minute, I almost perfectedthis,” Victor says, each word drawn out and padded with enough ellipses oneither side to let Yuuri know that Victor was far too concentrated on hisstupid music tapping game.

Yuuri reaches over and snagsVictor’s phone from his hands, yanking Victor’s earbuds from his ears in theprocess. He feels a slight hint of vindication at the yelp of pain from hisfiancé that turns into a howl of anguish as the game carries on withoutVictor’s obsessed fingers.

“Yuuri, what are you doing?!” Victor devolves into franticRussian that Yuuri doesn’t understand a word of, but can gather the generalgist of cursing and disbelief and panic from the other man’s tone.

When Victor reaches over, trying toget his phone back, Yuuri leans further away and holds down the power button,hurriedly swiping across the screen to shut the device off completely. Victordoesn’t stop trying to get his phone back like a man possessed, which, hepretty much is. Possessed by fictional, cutesy, high school girls. Yuuri needsto learn to stop being surprised by how much of a loser his fiancé actually is.

Victor is practically inconsolable.“Do you have any idea how long I’ve been practicing that one? I was doingperfect! The event is almost over and I am soclose to getting this one card that Ineed to idolize. That was the last of my LP and now I have to buy more heartsand—”

“Victor—” Yuuri claps his hands onVictor’s cheeks, squishing his face and cutting the Russian off—“Breathe. Calmdown. And please tell me you haven’t spent an obscene amount of money on a phone game.”

With Victor’s face smooshed betweenYuuri’s palms, Victor can only cast his eyes downwards. Yuuri tenses his armswhen Victor tries to turn his head away, keeping it in place. He presses his handsdeeper into Victor’s face, forcing the man lips to purse like a cartoon fish.

Victor tries to speak, say Yuuri’sname, but it comes out as a plaintive whine of Juuvbi.

“Victor,” Yuuri says, staring theRussian dead on. “You have a problem. And it needs to stop.”

Victor rolls his eyes, or does soas much as he can with his face squished. He responds, but Yuuri can’tunderstand a word the idiot his saying so he relaxes his grip on his face.

“I do not have problem, solnyshko moyo.” Yuuri fails at fightingthe shudder that crawls up his spine and brings heat to his face. He narrowshis eyes at the gleam in Victor’s.

“No,” Yuuri says, “you’re notallowed to do that.”

Victor, feigning ignorance, tiltshis head and nuzzles into Yuuri’s palm. “What?”

“You know exactly what I’m talkingabout.” Yuuri attempts to maintain his firm resolve, but his hold weakens asVictor turns his head to press half his mouth into Yuuri’s palm, lips pursed.

“You’ll have to spell it out forme, solnyshko moyo.” Victor repeatsthe endearment in a tone deeper and softer, mouth forming the syllables againstYuuri’s skin in teasing brushes.

Yuuri tries to hold onto his glarebut Victor presses a kiss into the lower part of his palm, just above thequickening pulse in his wrist, and Yuuri’s arms go slack.

“Victor.” Yuuri narrows his eyes,but his voice wavers. He’s losing and both he and Victor know it. Victor’s eyesflash beneath his fallen bangs. Yuuri gulps.

“Yuuri,” Victor drawls in returnand slips into Russian. Yuuri’s managed to learn a few phrases and words overthe course of their relationship, especially when Victor’s in a certain mood. He picks up mentions of skin andtouch and mouth and tongue and as per usual, Yuuri finds his body doing thatmelty thing it tends to do around Victor and affection, even though he knowsbetter.

Victor hovers over him and Yuurifalls back onto his pillow, framed by Victor’s arms on either side of his head.Yuuri’s hands slide from Victor’s face to the nape of his neck as Victor lowershimself, reducing the distance between the two.

When Victor’s resting on hiselbows, nestled between Yuuri’s parted legs, Yuuri arches up for a kiss andVictor comes down easily to meet him. Most nights—or afternoons, or evenings, ormornings—the two would follow the motions into some form of sex that typically leavesone of them smug and the other too blissed out to care. From the way Victor iskissing him, grinding down and pressing Yuuri into the bed, Yuuri figures he wouldbe the latter this time.

But then he feels something movingunder his head, beneath his pillow. Victor’s kisses become lazy, but not in theway of languid, easy, post-orgasm cuddling kisses. He’s distracted. The hand issearching.

The noise that rumbles from Yuuri’sthroat is one that is best described as a growl, not unlike that of adisgruntled small animal. He nips hard at Victor’s lip, far from playful.

“I can’t believe you,” Yuuriscowls, pushing Victor off of him and back over to his side of the bed. Victoris too startled by the bite and Yuuri’s sudden aggression to do more than fallback. Yuuri grabs his pillow and after a second of hesitation yanks the fluffyquilt from the bed as well. He leaves the bedroom without a word and headsstraight to the couch, adjusting the pillows and setting up for the night. He’sprobably overreacting a bit, but Yuuri is fed up and he refuses to continue to competewith a phone game.

Makkachin comes padding up to himand Yuuri pauses in making his couch-bed to pet the dog.

“Your owner is an idiot,” Yuuriconfides to the poodle.

Makkachin just nuzzles againstYuuri’s hands and legs before plopping down near the couch as Yuuri continues tomake his bed for the night.

Yuuri’s just about to lie down andmake himself comfortable when Victor clears his throat from somewhere behindhim. Yuuri refuses to turn around on principle and decides that the pillowscould be arranged better and proceeds to do so.

He ignores the sound of Victorshuffling up closer as he shakes out the stolen blanket. Makkachin gets up,tail wagging, as she goes to greet Victor. As Victor gets onto the couch, hemakes the mistake of caving and looking at Victor.

The Russian is standing barely a fewfeet away from the couch, hands in the pockets of his flannel pyjama pants,shoulders hunched inwards, and head ducked apologetically. His lips are pursedinto a wobbly pout of remorse.

“Yuuri…” Victor comes closer untilhe’s standing over Yuuri, who’s snuggled up on the couch, blanket wrappedaround him. Yuuri, unable to maintain a completely icy demeanor because it’sVictor, and Victor will always be a weakness, glances up and waits.

Victor rubs the back of his neck. “I’msorry,” he says. Makkachin looks between the two of them before huffing andslipping inside of the bedroom.

“Mhmm,” Yuuri feigns disinterestand shakes out his blanket some more. “I’m tired, Victor.”

Victor seems to hunch even more inon himself. “I’m sorry.”

At the apology, Yuuri meets Victor’seyes, finally and the kicked puppy look breaks his resolve. He sighs. “I’moverreacting—”

“No, no!” Victor cuts in. “I…haverealized that my, obsession, with the game is—was not good. I have spent an embarrassing amount of money on thatgame and I deleted the game. I promise to never download it or anything like itagain.”

Yuuri’s only reaction is to lift oneend of the blanket. “I’m sleepy and tired and I’m pretty sure Makkachin hastaken over the bed.”

Victor grins and wastes no time incrawling in with Yuuri. They shuffle around until they are more or lesscomfortable and snuggled together with Yuuri lying more on Victor than thecouch.

“Prosti, solnyshko moyo,” Victor says, pressing his lips to Yuuri’sforehead.

Yuuri tilts his head up to returnthe kiss, eyes closed. “Hush. Sleep. It was just a game and I still love you.”

Victor kisses him one last time,returning the sentiment in Russian, as they curl up and fall asleep.

The two are woken up fartoo early the next morning by Makkachin feeling lonely and plopping herself ontop of Victor and Yuuri.

[topfygad]

75 Useful tips for traveling to Kyrgyzstan

From first-class treks to a very accessible nomadic culture, horse riding and hospitable people, Kyrgyzstan is the ultimate destination for those seeking an off the beaten track (but easy) adventure.

After spending two entire months traveling in Kyrgyzstan, I have compiled all the necessary information that will help you plan your trip, from visas and bureaucracy to accommodation, transportation and plenty of cultural facts.

By the way, if you want to keep a track of all my photos and travels, remember to follow @againstthecompass on Instagram. 

This guide contains all the practical information. For places to visit, read: Backpacking in Kyrgyzstan – 1 to 4-week itinerary

    What will you find in this article?

Visa for Kyrgyzstan Travel insurance for Kyrgyzstan When to visit Kyrgyzstan How to get to Kyrgyzstan Is it safe to travel to Kyrgyzstan? Top 5 experiences in Kyrgyzstan Tours in Kyrgyzstan Books for traveling to Kyrgyzstan The country, people, and culture Nomadic life Horses Trekking Food and alcohol Money Accommodation Transportation Internet & SIM card More information

Total transparency – If you like my website and found this post useful, remember that, if you buy anything through any of my links, I will get a small commission at no extra cost to you. These earnings help me maintain and keep Against the Compass going! Thanks

Do you know what a VPN is? A Virtual Private Network allows you to access blocked sites when you travel, as well as it lets you access content only available in your home country (like Netflix), plus it prevents hackers from stealing your personal data. Learn here why you should always use a VPN when you travel

  Visa for Kyrgyzstan

1 – The most liberal visa regime in Central Asia – Most nationalities get a 60-day free visa on arrival, both at the airport and overland.

If you want to renew it, you just need to cross the Kazakh border (1 hour from Bishkek) and come back on the same day.

These countries are: EU/EFTA (except for Bulgaria, Cyprus, and Romania), Australia, Bahrain, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Brunei, Canada, Kuwait, Monaco, New Zealand, Qatar, Saudi Arabia, Singapore, South Korea, United Arab Emirates, United States, Uzbekistan, Vatican City. Japan and Russia can get an indefinite stay. 

2 – Other nationalities can apply for an e-visa – Since September 2017, most of the remaining countries can apply for an e-visa through the official portal. It takes around 1 week and costs 63USD. 

Moreover, if you are in possession of an e-visa, you can travel to Kyrgyzstan both via land and air. 

The countries which are eligible to the e-visa and don’t need LOI are: Albania, Andorra, Argentina, Brazil, Bulgaria, Chile, Cyprus, Indonesia, Israel, Macedonia, Mexico, Montenegro, Oman, Philippines, Romania, San Marino, South Africa, Serbia, Thailand, Turkey, Venezuela.

If you are not on any of the above lists, read the Kyrgyzstan visa section of Caravanistan for further information on visas.

3 – Extending your visa does not seem to be possible anymore – We tried to extend our visa in August 2017 and they said that, since May 2017, extensions aren’t possible anymore. We tried to extend it in both Karakol and Bishkek. 

It is easier to travel to Almaty and come back. 

4 – Overstaying can be expensive – According to what the authorities told us when we couldn’t extend our visas, if we overstayed, the fine could be up to 200USD.

A horse grazing in the middle of the Alay Valley – Kyrgyzstan travel guide

  Travel Insurance for Kyrgyzstan

5 – Get proper travel insurance – If you visit Kyrgyzstan, travel insurance is a must, as accidents do happen in the mountains. Actually, during a horse trek in Tash Rabat, I fell off the horse and had to stay in bed for two weeks.

It was a pretty bad (and scary accident).

I had to go to the hospital, all the way to Bishkek, where they carried out different kinds of tests on me which, in the end, turned out to be expensive.

Luckily, I had World Nomads, the best travel insurance company out there because:

It is the only company that gives unlimited medical coverage

It covers a big bunch of adventure activities, including trekking in high altitudes

Pretty much any nationality can get it

CLICK HERE TO GET YOUR FREE QUOTE FROM WORLD NOMADS

If you want to know more options, read how to find the best backpacking insurance

  When to travel to Kyrgyzstan

6 – My favorite month: September. Why?

July & August would be the ideal season for trekking, especially if you plan to go high in the mountains as, during these two months, the weather is warmer and the likelihood of raining is lower.

However, in 2019, Kyrgyzstan is becoming a popular destination, which means that some areas may be crowded. In September, nevertheless, most crowds will be gone, and the weather will still be warm enough for trekking, and that is why I consider September to be the best month for visiting Kyrgyzstan.

  High season (mid-June to Mid-September) Shoulder season (Spring and Autumn) Low season (mid-November to March) PROS Best season for trekking, loads of nomads In late spring and early autumn, you can do some cool treks Winter landscape, snow, no people CONS Crowded, plus it can be really hot in Bishkek and other low-altitude areas High mountains may be not accessible, unpredictable weather No trekking, no nomads

This was during the first week of July (Archa Tör Pass)

  How to get to Kyrgyzstan

7 – How to travel to Kyrgyzstan by air – Getting to the International Airport of Bishkek is fairly easy, as it has quite a few connections with several airports in Europe. Moreover, you should also check Pegasus, a budget airline from Istanbul with daily flights to Bishkek. Alternatively, check out the flights to Almaty, as they are usually cheaper and it is very close to Bishkek. 

8 – How to travel to Kyrgyzstan by land

China – There are 2 open borders, Irkeshtam and Torugart. Crossing at Torugart requires having a special, expensive Chinese permit. Crossing via Irkeshtam is fairly easy and you can read the full report here. 

Tajikistan – There are 6 border crossings and 4 of them are open to foreigners. The most obvious is the Kyzyl Art border crossing, which is the one that follows the Pamir Highway. For more information, read the latest Caravanistan updates.

Kazakhstan – There are like 7 border crossings, but the easiest ones are Karkara and Kordai. For more information, read the latest Caravanistan updates. 

Uzbekistan – There are nowadays 4 borders but only 3 are open as of 2019. For more information, read the latest Caravanistan updates. 

Kyzyl Art Pass, between Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan

  Is it safe to travel to Kyrgyzstan?

9 – Something you need to know:

The term Stan doesn’t mean a place is dangerous, but Stan means land, so Kyrgyzstan means the land of Kyrgyz. 

Kyrgyzstan is a safe destination. Period. 

I mean, just check the FCO advice and you will see that all they say is that Kyrgyzstan is a very safe country, and here you need to take into account that the FCO advice is always absolutely biased, meaning that tends to see danger where there is not, especially in the Middle East.

Solo travelers will be just fine and whereas I can’t speak for women, I know many women who have been there, and all they told me was positive experiences. 

The only potential danger you may hear about is that Bishkek used to be infamous for its after-midnight crime, mainly targeting drunk people on their way home from the bars. The situation, however, has dramatically improved but, if that is a concern for you, just take a taxi when you go back home.  

  Top 5 experiences in Kyrgyzstan

Remember that, for a complete itinerary, including all the places to visit, plus accommodation & transportation tips, don’t forget to check my Kyrgyzstan guide for the independent traveler. 

Stay with Kyrgyz nomads

Experiencing the nomadic life is one of the greatest Kyrgyz experiences. From staying in a yurt to helping them preparing kurut, their local cheese, during our 2-month journey across the country, we met loads of nomads with we had awesome experiences. 

However, with the tourism increase, some nomadic camps have become too commercial, and what I recommend is that you try to find the most authentic ones. How? Well, by getting off the beaten track but also, if you go to Song Kul, instead of staying at the CBT camp where everybody stays, just go across the lake. 

A really offbeat nomad camp, somewhere in the southern Pamirs

Watch nomad games, but try to find out where the local games happen (don’t go to the touristic ones)

The ancient nomad sports in Kyrgyzstan are just crazy, and bizarre.

From horse wrestling to playing polo with a dead goat instead of an actual ball (Ulak tariysh), the nomadic games of Kyrgyzstan are, definitely, a must-see. 

Every summer, some tourist organizations, like CBT, organize nomad games for tourists, in Song Kul and places like that, but I recommend you find the local ones, as the vibe is just great, plus they do a larger variety of sports. 

To be very honest, I didn’t manage to see a local game in Kyrgyzstan, but I did in Tajikistan, near the Kyrgyz border (where most Tajiks are ethnically Kyrgyz), and it was just awesome.

Go trekking on a horse

Many people may feel bad for riding a horse, but the truth is that Kyrgyzstan is the land of horses and even today, in the rural areas, they are the preferred way of transportation.

Those horses are really used to go over high altitude mountain passes, and you definitely get a different experience, and perspective than going on foot. 

Climbing the Tash Rabat pass – 4,000 meters

Go trekking in some of the most mind-blowing mountains ever

I truly believe that, in a matter of years, Kyrgyzstan will become the trekking destination of reference, competing directly with Nepal and Argentina, and the reason is that its mountains are absolutely jaw-dropping, plus they are much more accessible than any other destination I know. 

Visit the remotest Silk Road Heritage sites

Kyrgyzstan has only a small bunch of Silk Road Heritage sites, but the few it has are truly epic, remote and placed in the most epic locations. 

The most epic Silk Road Heritage site in Kyrgyzstan: Tash Rabat

Something you must know: Kyrgyzstan is about nature and nomadic life  With very few Silk Road Heritage sites compared to its neighbor Uzbekistan, in Kyrgyzstan, there’s not much to do besides wandering around its gorgeous mountains and experiencing the nomadic life. The truth is that, with the exception of Bishkek and Arslanbob, most towns in Kyrgyzstan are pretty boring as there is no distinctive architecture, soul and social life, as Kyrgyzstan has been a nomadic land for many centuries. When you travel in Kyrgyzstan, you will see that towns are merely used as a base to explore the mountains or take a rest from them.

Read: 75 Useful tips for traveling to Uzbekistan

  Tours in Kyrgyzstan

I am sure you already know that I am not really into tours, but if you are short in time and why not, you feel safer and more comfortable with a group or a professional guide, these are some really trips offered by GetYourGuide, a company I like to recommend because you can book budget tours online with just one click. 

7-day Highlights of Kyrgyzstan – 1 week exploring the best of Kyrgyzstan. CLICK HERE TO LEARN MORE

Burana Tower – Day trip to One of the very few Silk Road Heritage sites in Kyrgyzstan. CLICK HERE TO LEARN MORE

Ala Archa Park + Eagle Hunting – A trip to the closest National Park to Bishkek combined with the classic ancient nomad way of hunting. CLICK HERE TO LEARN MORE

Bishkek City Tour – A walking tour around the capital. CLICK HERE TO LEARN MORE

Following nomads – A full day following a group of nomads to learn about their way of living. CLICK HERE TO LEARN MORE

Song Kul Lake – Trip to one of the most epic lakes in Kyrgyzstan. CLICK HERE TO LEARN MORE

CLICK HERE TO SEE ALL TOURS TO KYRGYZSTAN

Burana tower, one of the few Silk Road heritage places in the country

  Books for traveling to Kyrgyzstan

Besides my blog, you may wanna check some book guides:

10 – Kyrgyzstan Guide by Bradt – By far, the best and most complete book guide to Kyrgyzstan. Bradt writes the most awesome guides, as they are always filled with great cultural insights and personal experiences. I always buy their Kindle version for whatever country I go to.

 CLICK HERE TO SEE THE LATEST PRICES ON AMAZON 

  11 – Central Asia Guide by Lonely Planet – A classic. If you are traveling throughout the region, this might be a more economical option, rather than buying one guide oer country.

CLICK HERE TO SEE THE LATEST PRICES ON AMAZON 

  11 – Russian-English phrasebook – No need to say how useful being able to speak in Russian is.

 CLICK HERE TO SEE THE LATEST PRICES ON AMAZON 

  Country, people and culture

12 – Kyrgyzstan used to be part of the Soviet Union – It acquired its independence in 1991, with the collapse of the USSR.

13 – The origin of the Kyrgyz – Kyrgyz people are an ethnic nomadic group which is believed to have come from a region within Siberia, during the 10th and 15th centuries.

Originally, they used to have red hair but, over the centuries, they have mixed with all kinds of groups, especially Mongols and Turks.

14 – Kyrgyz make up 66% of the population – The biggest minority are Uzbeks (15%), followed by Russians (10%).

15 – It’s a Muslim country. Well, not really – Like in most Soviet countries, religion is not a big deal anymore, especially in the north of the country.

In the south, people tend to be more traditional, so you may see more mosques or men with beard and Muslim hats, but nothing relevant. During Ramadan, I was in Bishkek and didn’t see any sign of people fasting.

Alcohol is available everywhere and there is no sex segregation. You will see that women of all ages will always come to you to start a conversation.

16 – However, Saudi Arabia wants to reverse this – They are funding the construction of mosques across the country.

Read: 35 Tips for traveling to Kazakhstan

A very Muslim, nomadic man, which is very rare to see. His wife wears a niqab

17 – Kyrgyz is the national language but Russian is widely spoken – Kyrgyz, a Turkic language, is the country’s official language.

Russian is spoken by most of the population, except in the south of the country, which has a significant Uzbek population who, for some reason, don’t really speak it.

18 – English is a problem – Communicating with people is one of the biggest issues in Kyrgyzstan, as very few people speak English. 

19 – At least, you must learn the Cyrillic alphabet – Extremely useful, especially when it comes to reading restaurant menus and bus directions.

20 – Bishkek is surprisingly Westernized – When you arrive in Bishkek and discover all those restaurants and bars where local people hang out, who dress incredibly well, you realize that this is not what you were expecting.

21 – The rest of the country is more traditional – Outside of Bishkek, most people still live a traditional life, where people’s main life goal is getting married and having children as early as possible. I met several 20-year old women who already had two kids.

22 – Kidnapping brides is still a big deal – And what do I mean by kidnapping brides? In Kyrgyzstan, a man can take a random woman who is just walking on the street to his house and, if both parents agree, he can marry her and the woman can’t say anything.

I know, it’s not a real kidnapping but it’s a crazy tradition and, even today, some locals told me that this is practiced by 20% of the population, especially in small, rural villages.

If you want to know more about, check out this video (2019)

23 – The most hospitable people in Central Asia – In this region, the Kyrgyz are famous for their hospitality. When we went trekking in the mountains, I remember that there was not a single day when someone didn’t invite us to his or her yurt to have some tea and bread with home-made jam and butter.

Traveling in Kyrgyzstan is very pleasant, as the Kyrgyz people, who will always bless you with their smiles, are kind and hospitable by nature.

24 – You can’t believe how clean they are – When you visit Kyrgyzstan, you will realize that these people have a real obsession with cleanliness.

Even in youth hostels, sometimes I could never go to the toilet because there was someone cleaning it. In guest houses and home-stays, women spend the entire day mopping the floor and cleaning the kitchen.

I don’t know whether it’s true or not but, a Russian man told me that, during Soviet times, Kyrgyz people had a bad reputation for being dirty. In order to change this general opinion, they became obsessed with cleanliness.

25 – Girls are pretty, very pretty – Kyrgyz women are stunning, especially in Bishkek. On the other hand, all foreign women say that, in general, Kyrgyz men are not very handsome.

26 – Always remove your shoes – You must always remove shoes when you enter any house, yurt and even hostels and guesthouses.

Read: 70 Tips for traveling to Pakistan

A cute, nomadic girl

  Nomadic life

27 – The most accessible nomadic life in the world – From time immemorial, the ethnic group known as the Kyrgyz have been a nomadic people who tend to move continuously throughout the mountains and valleys of the region with their cattle.

Today, a large proportion of the Kyrgyz population still live a nomadic, traditional life, not very different from their ancestors.

In summer, which is from June to September, you will find hundreds of nomad camps everywhere, either next to the road or in the remotest mountains, where they settle so their horses, cows and sheep can graze freely.

28 – It’s their summer job – During the summer months, Kyrgyz nomads move from cities to the mountains, so their herds of cows, sheep, goats and horses can graze freely.

When the season is over, they sell some of these animals, as well as dairy products and meat. This is the only source of income most of them rely on.

29 – They live in yurts – Yurts are perhaps the most iconic symbol of Kyrgyzstan. These cozy skin-made tents, which can be seen all across the country, can be incredibly warm during the freezing nights.

A yurt camp in Song Kul

30 – You can always stay with them, no matter where you go – Whether you just want to get a warm meal or spend the night, wherever you go trekking, the nomads will always welcome you, at least in my experience.

But remember that, even if they don’t ask, they may expect you to pay something.

31 – Get off the beaten track because the touristic areas are too commercialized – If you go to popular places, such as Song Kul for example, most nomad families have spare yurts, which have been built for tourists.

Whereas there is nothing wrong with staying there, the experience won’t be very authentic.

If you have a chance, try to find yurts around the Alay Valley, the Pamirs or even in less popular treks around Karakol. In these yurt camps, you may sleep in the same yurt as the family and even join in with their daily tasks.

Enjoying some shorpo with a nomadic woman – Kyrgyzstan travel guide

  Horses

32 – It’s the land of horses – Horses are as much part of their culture as the yurts. From epic horse treks over 4,000-meter mountain passes to herds of tens of horses grazing in stunning meadows, if you like horses, you are going to love Kyrgyzstan.

33 – They learn how to ride a horse at the same time as walking – When you are in the mountains, you will see plenty of kids (including little girls) riding big horses.

34 – You must go horse trekking – Trekking over high mountain passes, riding one of those beautiful beasts is one of the highlights of Kyrgyzstan.

Ah, in case you are wondering, no, you don’t need any previous riding experience. A guide will always come with you.

35 – But be careful! – Horses are no joke. They are dangerous so don’t try to gallop if you don’t have any experience.

I actually had a pretty bad accident, felling off a horse in Tash Rabat when I tried to gallop (I am a stupid, inexperienced man). I had to stay in bed for two weeks and fully recovered after one month. I could have been much, much worse, so be careful.

Riding a horse in Tash Rabat

36 – Hiring a horse is cheap – It costs around 700KGS ($10) a day plus 1,000KGS ($15) for the guide, which can be split between several people. If they try to charge you more, they are ripping you off.

37 – But be aware that they eat them! – When you see a herd of horses grazing over a dreamy meadow, don’t get too much in love with them because many of them will end up in a butchery!

38 – Horse games – Horses are so rooted in their culture that they are also main protagonists in their national sports. Among many others, Ulak Tsrtysh is the most popular game, which is a form of polo where they play with a dead goat which is beheaded right before the game begins. Violence in any match is more than guaranteed.

For more information on horses, read: Horse riding in Tash Rabat, Kyrgyzstan

Horse wrestling

  Trekking

39 – Around 90% of the of the country is above 1,500 meters – I’ve told you everything already.

40 – First world-class hikes – For decades, travelers with a slight sense of adventure, who wanted to savor some first-class hikes, used to go to Argentina, Switzerland, and Nepal.

However, just a couple of years ago, the most intrepid travelers quickly realized that trekking in Kyrgyzstan could easily rival Patagonia and the Himalayas.

41 – Some treks I did:  Tien Shan mountains around Karakol, Trekking from Tash Rabat to Chatyr Kul Trekking from Kyzylart to Song Kul  Trekking to Lenin Peak Base camp

For more information on trekking in Kyrgyzstan, read my guide: 

Trekking in Kyrgyzstan, everything you need to know

On my way to the advanced base camp of Lenin peak

  Food and alcohol

42 – Food is not amazing but it’s OK to fill your stomach – You will not love it but, after traveling in Kyrgyzstan for 2 months, I was not especially bored of it.

43 – The typical food – Lagman (a hearty noodle soup), manty (meat dumplings) and shorpo (meat broth) are the staple food.

44 – But don’t trust mantys – While traveling in Kyrgyzstan, the only day I got slightly sick was after eating some street mantys. Be careful where you order them, as the meat they are filled with may have been outside of the fridge for days.

45 – In small towns and villages, only staple food – In bigger towns, you can easily find more choices, like salads, kebab or Western food. However, in villages, you’ll have to fill your stomach with lagman and mantys.

46 – You are expected to know what to order from the moment you enter the restaurant – It’s your first day in Kyrgyzstan, the first time you enter a restaurant, holding a menu written in an alphabet which you’ve never seen before.

However, they will expect you to know what to order within 10 seconds of giving you the menu. If you tell them to wait for 5 or 10 minutes, they won’t really understand you and will stand next to you. It’s very weird but you’ll get used to it. 

47 – If you are vegetarian, you are fucked – It’s said that Kyrgyzstan is the country with the highest consumption of meat per capita in the world.

At most restaurants, it’s extremely difficult to find vegetarian dishes and, when you ask for something vegetarian, they kind of freak out.

Even sometimes, when I ordered a salad, it came with pieces of cooked beef in it. True story.

48 – Even chicken is difficult to find – If you find chicken on a menu, just order it!

49 – Beer and vodka are available everywhere – Welcome to the ex-Soviet republic of Kyrgyzstan! Despite being a Muslim country, alcohol consumption is present everywhere, even in small villages and towns.

50 – Get used to people being completely smashed at 9am – You’ll definitely meet Kyrgyz men who are massively wasted, who can barely walk, quite early in the morning.

51 – You must try kymys – If you go to the mountains and stay with nomads, ask for kymys, which is fermented milk. Most people don’t like it, as it has a weirdly sour, strong taste.

It has some small percentage of alcohol. However, if you don’t like it the first time, give it another chance. I tasted it in four different places and in two of them it was surprisingly good.

52 – Kyryt is the snack in fashion – Kyryt are some sort of cheese and yogurt balls which are available all across Central Asia but Kyrgyzstan is where they are most prevalent.

Again, some people don’t like them but, like kymys, some of them were good, some of them weren’t.

53 – A fruit paradise – If you come during the season, markets are filled with all kinds of fruits, incredibly tasty and ridiculously cheap. In summer, you will find plenty of nectarines, watermelon, strawberries, raspberries and much, much more!

Some very nice girls selling kyryt, the national snack in Kyrgyzstan

  Money

54 – Kyrgyz SOM is the official currency – 1USD = 68KGS

55 – It’s cheap, really cheap – You can easily find home or yurt stays for 10USD a day, including dinner and breakfast. Meals cost around 1-2USD in local eateries and between 2-4USD in mid-range places.

Public transportation within cities costs 15c and buses between nearby towns, less than 1USD. You can live like a king for less than 20USD a day.

56 – ATMs are easy to find and you can withdraw USD – ATMs are available everywhere and, in many of them, you can select the option that you want to cash out USD, instead of KGS.

In my experience, the maximum I was able to get was 200USD at a time.

57 – I’ve never seen so many exchange offices – In Bishkek, there are exchange offices in absolutely every corner. In the rest of the country, it’s also easy to exchange money.

58 – Except for taxi drivers, people don’t tend to rip you off – Perhaps, because mass tourism hasn’t arrived here yet but I didn’t feel anyone trying to rip me off, except for taxi drivers of course.

59 – Expect to pay 10-15% extra for service in any good restaurant – Except in cheap, local eateries, you will always pay an extra 10-15% for service when the bill comes.

Song Kul at sunrise

  Accommodation

60 – Everybody has a home stay – Kyrgyzstan has the peculiarity that, no matter where you go, locals offer their houses to foreigners for home stays. 

Whether it is a remote village or a touristic destination, as soon as you arrive, women will approach you, asking if you want to stay at their house. 

61 – Homestays are superb – They are always comfortable, clean and nicely decorated. You will not want to leave!

62 – They always expect you to pay – Remember that, even if you are in a very remote village and you get randomly invited by someone to stay, even if they don’t ask you for money, they are expecting you to give something.

63 – Price is always per person – If you travel alone, Kyrgyzstan is a good place for you, as price is always per person, not per room.

64 – You must stay in a yurt – Go to the mountains and stay in a yurt with a Kyrgyz family!

A woman preparing our dinner at her house

  Transportation – Kyrgyzstan travel guide

65 – Hitchhiking – Extremely easy and common among the locals. However, remember that, in Kyrgyzstan, everybody is a taxi driver so if you are looking for a free ride, you will need an extra dose of patience.

66 – Mashrutka is the way to go – Mashrutkas are some kind of vans and mini-vans that connect all cities and towns in Kyrgyzstan.

They are extremely cheap and it’s very easy to move around with them, as you can find a station (or more) at every bazaar in absolutely every town.

You just need to get on at the station and say which city or town you want to go.

67 – Shared local taxis – Late in the evening, for long distances or in very remote towns, marshrutkas don’t run that often, so you will have to take a local shared taxi.

They are more expensive but, definitely, faster than marshrutkas. However, some drivers are completely nuts and may drive at over 120km per hour along narrow mountain roads.

68 – Old women have the power – In any bus, marshrutka or taxi you go, women can choose any seat they want, even if you arrived one hour before them. In city buses, always give up your seat to any women over 40-50 years old. If you don’t, they will tell you to stand up.

When I fell off the horse and had to stay in bed for 2 weeks, I was sitting in a marshrutka on the way to the hospital.

I could barely stand up and, when a woman entered and told me to move and I couldn’t explain why I couldn’t, I created a lot of trouble until she understood.

69 – At 40ºC, windows are still closed – Kyrgyz are afraid of air currents and no matter what time of the year it is, even if it’s the peak of the summer and 40ºC outside, they like to travel with the windows closed and the AC switched off.

Sometimes, you can negotiate with the men but, if there are old ladies, forget about it.

70 – Remember to be patient – Ninety percent of Kyrgyzstan is composed of high mountains which means that, every time you want to go from town to town, you will have to cross them, making your journey particularly slow.

In addition, in some more remote destinations, shared taxis and marshrutkas leave once they are full and, sometimes, it takes some time to fill them. Just keep in mind that traveling in Kyrgyzstan can be particularly slow.

Read: Things to do in Astana, Kazakhstan

A yurt camp in Song Kul

  Internet and SIM cards

71 – The best internet in Central Asia – High-speed Wi-Fi is available almost all across the country, even in high altitude towns such as Sary-Mogol and Sary-Tash.

72 – 3G also works pretty well – If you get a local SIM-Card, 3G is also quite fast.

73 – SIM Card – Get a mobile company called O! For just a few dollars, they offer weekly deals for both internet data and calls. This mobile company has street stalls all over the country.

  More information

74 – What is CBT? – CBT (Community Based Tourism) is a very popular tour agency in Kyrgyzstan that can arrange any kind of activity you want to, from yurt stays to trekking, taxis, permits and anything you can think of.

CBT has offices all over the country and it is so popular because, despite being a tour agency, they offer very cheap and competitive prices.

However, bear in mind that, of course, it will always be cheaper to arrange things on your own.

75 – All my articles about Kyrgyzstan – Find them here:

Backpacking in Kyrgyzstan: The ultimate travel itinerary Horse riding in Tash Rabat A beginner’s guide to trekking in Kyrgyzstan Trekking in Karakol China-Kyrgyzstan border crossing Kyrgyzstan-Tajikistan border crossing 10 Reasons to visit Kyrgyzstan Trekking independently to Song Kul (Planet D guest post) Lenin Peak base camp (Nomadasaurus Guest post)

More articles about Central Asia – Check all my guides and articles about Tajikistan, Uzbekistan, and Kazakhstan.

You are traveling to a neighboring country – Check my guides to Iran or Azerbaijan.

    source http://cheaprtravels.com/75-useful-tips-for-traveling-to-kyrgyzstan/

[topfygad]

75 Useful tips for traveling to Kyrgyzstan

From first-class treks to a very accessible nomadic culture, horse riding and hospitable people, Kyrgyzstan is the ultimate destination for those seeking an off the beaten track (but easy) adventure.

After spending two entire months traveling in Kyrgyzstan, I have compiled all the necessary information that will help you plan your trip, from visas and bureaucracy to accommodation, transportation and plenty of cultural facts.

By the way, if you want to keep a track of all my photos and travels, remember to follow @againstthecompass on Instagram. 

This guide contains all the practical information. For places to visit, read: Backpacking in Kyrgyzstan – 1 to 4-week itinerary

    What will you find in this article?

Visa for Kyrgyzstan Travel insurance for Kyrgyzstan When to visit Kyrgyzstan How to get to Kyrgyzstan Is it safe to travel to Kyrgyzstan? Top 5 experiences in Kyrgyzstan Tours in Kyrgyzstan Books for traveling to Kyrgyzstan The country, people, and culture Nomadic life Horses Trekking Food and alcohol Money Accommodation Transportation Internet & SIM card More information

Total transparency – If you like my website and found this post useful, remember that, if you buy anything through any of my links, I will get a small commission at no extra cost to you. These earnings help me maintain and keep Against the Compass going! Thanks

Do you know what a VPN is? A Virtual Private Network allows you to access blocked sites when you travel, as well as it lets you access content only available in your home country (like Netflix), plus it prevents hackers from stealing your personal data. Learn here why you should always use a VPN when you travel

  Visa for Kyrgyzstan

1 – The most liberal visa regime in Central Asia – Most nationalities get a 60-day free visa on arrival, both at the airport and overland.

If you want to renew it, you just need to cross the Kazakh border (1 hour from Bishkek) and come back on the same day.

These countries are: EU/EFTA (except for Bulgaria, Cyprus, and Romania), Australia, Bahrain, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Brunei, Canada, Kuwait, Monaco, New Zealand, Qatar, Saudi Arabia, Singapore, South Korea, United Arab Emirates, United States, Uzbekistan, Vatican City. Japan and Russia can get an indefinite stay. 

2 – Other nationalities can apply for an e-visa – Since September 2017, most of the remaining countries can apply for an e-visa through the official portal. It takes around 1 week and costs 63USD. 

Moreover, if you are in possession of an e-visa, you can travel to Kyrgyzstan both via land and air. 

The countries which are eligible to the e-visa and don’t need LOI are: Albania, Andorra, Argentina, Brazil, Bulgaria, Chile, Cyprus, Indonesia, Israel, Macedonia, Mexico, Montenegro, Oman, Philippines, Romania, San Marino, South Africa, Serbia, Thailand, Turkey, Venezuela.

If you are not on any of the above lists, read the Kyrgyzstan visa section of Caravanistan for further information on visas.

3 – Extending your visa does not seem to be possible anymore – We tried to extend our visa in August 2017 and they said that, since May 2017, extensions aren’t possible anymore. We tried to extend it in both Karakol and Bishkek. 

It is easier to travel to Almaty and come back. 

4 – Overstaying can be expensive – According to what the authorities told us when we couldn’t extend our visas, if we overstayed, the fine could be up to 200USD.

A horse grazing in the middle of the Alay Valley – Kyrgyzstan travel guide

  Travel Insurance for Kyrgyzstan

5 – Get proper travel insurance – If you visit Kyrgyzstan, travel insurance is a must, as accidents do happen in the mountains. Actually, during a horse trek in Tash Rabat, I fell off the horse and had to stay in bed for two weeks.

It was a pretty bad (and scary accident).

I had to go to the hospital, all the way to Bishkek, where they carried out different kinds of tests on me which, in the end, turned out to be expensive.

Luckily, I had World Nomads, the best travel insurance company out there because:

It is the only company that gives unlimited medical coverage

It covers a big bunch of adventure activities, including trekking in high altitudes

Pretty much any nationality can get it

CLICK HERE TO GET YOUR FREE QUOTE FROM WORLD NOMADS

If you want to know more options, read how to find the best backpacking insurance

  When to travel to Kyrgyzstan

6 – My favorite month: September. Why?

July & August would be the ideal season for trekking, especially if you plan to go high in the mountains as, during these two months, the weather is warmer and the likelihood of raining is lower.

However, in 2019, Kyrgyzstan is becoming a popular destination, which means that some areas may be crowded. In September, nevertheless, most crowds will be gone, and the weather will still be warm enough for trekking, and that is why I consider September to be the best month for visiting Kyrgyzstan.

  High season (mid-June to Mid-September) Shoulder season (Spring and Autumn) Low season (mid-November to March) PROS Best season for trekking, loads of nomads In late spring and early autumn, you can do some cool treks Winter landscape, snow, no people CONS Crowded, plus it can be really hot in Bishkek and other low-altitude areas High mountains may be not accessible, unpredictable weather No trekking, no nomads

This was during the first week of July (Archa Tör Pass)

  How to get to Kyrgyzstan

7 – How to travel to Kyrgyzstan by air – Getting to the International Airport of Bishkek is fairly easy, as it has quite a few connections with several airports in Europe. Moreover, you should also check Pegasus, a budget airline from Istanbul with daily flights to Bishkek. Alternatively, check out the flights to Almaty, as they are usually cheaper and it is very close to Bishkek. 

8 – How to travel to Kyrgyzstan by land

China – There are 2 open borders, Irkeshtam and Torugart. Crossing at Torugart requires having a special, expensive Chinese permit. Crossing via Irkeshtam is fairly easy and you can read the full report here. 

Tajikistan – There are 6 border crossings and 4 of them are open to foreigners. The most obvious is the Kyzyl Art border crossing, which is the one that follows the Pamir Highway. For more information, read the latest Caravanistan updates.

Kazakhstan – There are like 7 border crossings, but the easiest ones are Karkara and Kordai. For more information, read the latest Caravanistan updates. 

Uzbekistan – There are nowadays 4 borders but only 3 are open as of 2019. For more information, read the latest Caravanistan updates. 

Kyzyl Art Pass, between Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan

  Is it safe to travel to Kyrgyzstan?

9 – Something you need to know:

The term Stan doesn’t mean a place is dangerous, but Stan means land, so Kyrgyzstan means the land of Kyrgyz. 

Kyrgyzstan is a safe destination. Period. 

I mean, just check the FCO advice and you will see that all they say is that Kyrgyzstan is a very safe country, and here you need to take into account that the FCO advice is always absolutely biased, meaning that tends to see danger where there is not, especially in the Middle East.

Solo travelers will be just fine and whereas I can’t speak for women, I know many women who have been there, and all they told me was positive experiences. 

The only potential danger you may hear about is that Bishkek used to be infamous for its after-midnight crime, mainly targeting drunk people on their way home from the bars. The situation, however, has dramatically improved but, if that is a concern for you, just take a taxi when you go back home.  

  Top 5 experiences in Kyrgyzstan

Remember that, for a complete itinerary, including all the places to visit, plus accommodation & transportation tips, don’t forget to check my Kyrgyzstan guide for the independent traveler. 

Stay with Kyrgyz nomads

Experiencing the nomadic life is one of the greatest Kyrgyz experiences. From staying in a yurt to helping them preparing kurut, their local cheese, during our 2-month journey across the country, we met loads of nomads with we had awesome experiences. 

However, with the tourism increase, some nomadic camps have become too commercial, and what I recommend is that you try to find the most authentic ones. How? Well, by getting off the beaten track but also, if you go to Song Kul, instead of staying at the CBT camp where everybody stays, just go across the lake. 

A really offbeat nomad camp, somewhere in the southern Pamirs

Watch nomad games, but try to find out where the local games happen (don’t go to the touristic ones)

The ancient nomad sports in Kyrgyzstan are just crazy, and bizarre.

From horse wrestling to playing polo with a dead goat instead of an actual ball (Ulak tariysh), the nomadic games of Kyrgyzstan are, definitely, a must-see. 

Every summer, some tourist organizations, like CBT, organize nomad games for tourists, in Song Kul and places like that, but I recommend you find the local ones, as the vibe is just great, plus they do a larger variety of sports. 

To be very honest, I didn’t manage to see a local game in Kyrgyzstan, but I did in Tajikistan, near the Kyrgyz border (where most Tajiks are ethnically Kyrgyz), and it was just awesome.

Go trekking on a horse

Many people may feel bad for riding a horse, but the truth is that Kyrgyzstan is the land of horses and even today, in the rural areas, they are the preferred way of transportation.

Those horses are really used to go over high altitude mountain passes, and you definitely get a different experience, and perspective than going on foot. 

Climbing the Tash Rabat pass – 4,000 meters

Go trekking in some of the most mind-blowing mountains ever

I truly believe that, in a matter of years, Kyrgyzstan will become the trekking destination of reference, competing directly with Nepal and Argentina, and the reason is that its mountains are absolutely jaw-dropping, plus they are much more accessible than any other destination I know. 

Visit the remotest Silk Road Heritage sites

Kyrgyzstan has only a small bunch of Silk Road Heritage sites, but the few it has are truly epic, remote and placed in the most epic locations. 

The most epic Silk Road Heritage site in Kyrgyzstan: Tash Rabat

Something you must know: Kyrgyzstan is about nature and nomadic life  With very few Silk Road Heritage sites compared to its neighbor Uzbekistan, in Kyrgyzstan, there’s not much to do besides wandering around its gorgeous mountains and experiencing the nomadic life. The truth is that, with the exception of Bishkek and Arslanbob, most towns in Kyrgyzstan are pretty boring as there is no distinctive architecture, soul and social life, as Kyrgyzstan has been a nomadic land for many centuries. When you travel in Kyrgyzstan, you will see that towns are merely used as a base to explore the mountains or take a rest from them.

Read: 75 Useful tips for traveling to Uzbekistan

  Tours in Kyrgyzstan

I am sure you already know that I am not really into tours, but if you are short in time and why not, you feel safer and more comfortable with a group or a professional guide, these are some really trips offered by GetYourGuide, a company I like to recommend because you can book budget tours online with just one click. 

7-day Highlights of Kyrgyzstan – 1 week exploring the best of Kyrgyzstan. CLICK HERE TO LEARN MORE

Burana Tower – Day trip to One of the very few Silk Road Heritage sites in Kyrgyzstan. CLICK HERE TO LEARN MORE

Ala Archa Park + Eagle Hunting – A trip to the closest National Park to Bishkek combined with the classic ancient nomad way of hunting. CLICK HERE TO LEARN MORE

Bishkek City Tour – A walking tour around the capital. CLICK HERE TO LEARN MORE

Following nomads – A full day following a group of nomads to learn about their way of living. CLICK HERE TO LEARN MORE

Song Kul Lake – Trip to one of the most epic lakes in Kyrgyzstan. CLICK HERE TO LEARN MORE

CLICK HERE TO SEE ALL TOURS TO KYRGYZSTAN

Burana tower, one of the few Silk Road heritage places in the country

  Books for traveling to Kyrgyzstan

Besides my blog, you may wanna check some book guides:

10 – Kyrgyzstan Guide by Bradt – By far, the best and most complete book guide to Kyrgyzstan. Bradt writes the most awesome guides, as they are always filled with great cultural insights and personal experiences. I always buy their Kindle version for whatever country I go to.

 CLICK HERE TO SEE THE LATEST PRICES ON AMAZON 

  11 – Central Asia Guide by Lonely Planet – A classic. If you are traveling throughout the region, this might be a more economical option, rather than buying one guide oer country.

CLICK HERE TO SEE THE LATEST PRICES ON AMAZON 

  11 – Russian-English phrasebook – No need to say how useful being able to speak in Russian is.

 CLICK HERE TO SEE THE LATEST PRICES ON AMAZON 

  Country, people and culture

12 – Kyrgyzstan used to be part of the Soviet Union – It acquired its independence in 1991, with the collapse of the USSR.

13 – The origin of the Kyrgyz – Kyrgyz people are an ethnic nomadic group which is believed to have come from a region within Siberia, during the 10th and 15th centuries.

Originally, they used to have red hair but, over the centuries, they have mixed with all kinds of groups, especially Mongols and Turks.

14 – Kyrgyz make up 66% of the population – The biggest minority are Uzbeks (15%), followed by Russians (10%).

15 – It’s a Muslim country. Well, not really – Like in most Soviet countries, religion is not a big deal anymore, especially in the north of the country.

In the south, people tend to be more traditional, so you may see more mosques or men with beard and Muslim hats, but nothing relevant. During Ramadan, I was in Bishkek and didn’t see any sign of people fasting.

Alcohol is available everywhere and there is no sex segregation. You will see that women of all ages will always come to you to start a conversation.

16 – However, Saudi Arabia wants to reverse this – They are funding the construction of mosques across the country.

Read: 35 Tips for traveling to Kazakhstan

A very Muslim, nomadic man, which is very rare to see. His wife wears a niqab

17 – Kyrgyz is the national language but Russian is widely spoken – Kyrgyz, a Turkic language, is the country’s official language.

Russian is spoken by most of the population, except in the south of the country, which has a significant Uzbek population who, for some reason, don’t really speak it.

18 – English is a problem – Communicating with people is one of the biggest issues in Kyrgyzstan, as very few people speak English. 

19 – At least, you must learn the Cyrillic alphabet – Extremely useful, especially when it comes to reading restaurant menus and bus directions.

20 – Bishkek is surprisingly Westernized – When you arrive in Bishkek and discover all those restaurants and bars where local people hang out, who dress incredibly well, you realize that this is not what you were expecting.

21 – The rest of the country is more traditional – Outside of Bishkek, most people still live a traditional life, where people’s main life goal is getting married and having children as early as possible. I met several 20-year old women who already had two kids.

22 – Kidnapping brides is still a big deal – And what do I mean by kidnapping brides? In Kyrgyzstan, a man can take a random woman who is just walking on the street to his house and, if both parents agree, he can marry her and the woman can’t say anything.

I know, it’s not a real kidnapping but it’s a crazy tradition and, even today, some locals told me that this is practiced by 20% of the population, especially in small, rural villages.

If you want to know more about, check out this video (2019)

23 – The most hospitable people in Central Asia – In this region, the Kyrgyz are famous for their hospitality. When we went trekking in the mountains, I remember that there was not a single day when someone didn’t invite us to his or her yurt to have some tea and bread with home-made jam and butter.

Traveling in Kyrgyzstan is very pleasant, as the Kyrgyz people, who will always bless you with their smiles, are kind and hospitable by nature.

24 – You can’t believe how clean they are – When you visit Kyrgyzstan, you will realize that these people have a real obsession with cleanliness.

Even in youth hostels, sometimes I could never go to the toilet because there was someone cleaning it. In guest houses and home-stays, women spend the entire day mopping the floor and cleaning the kitchen.

I don’t know whether it’s true or not but, a Russian man told me that, during Soviet times, Kyrgyz people had a bad reputation for being dirty. In order to change this general opinion, they became obsessed with cleanliness.

25 – Girls are pretty, very pretty – Kyrgyz women are stunning, especially in Bishkek. On the other hand, all foreign women say that, in general, Kyrgyz men are not very handsome.

26 – Always remove your shoes – You must always remove shoes when you enter any house, yurt and even hostels and guesthouses.

Read: 70 Tips for traveling to Pakistan

A cute, nomadic girl

  Nomadic life

27 – The most accessible nomadic life in the world – From time immemorial, the ethnic group known as the Kyrgyz have been a nomadic people who tend to move continuously throughout the mountains and valleys of the region with their cattle.

Today, a large proportion of the Kyrgyz population still live a nomadic, traditional life, not very different from their ancestors.

In summer, which is from June to September, you will find hundreds of nomad camps everywhere, either next to the road or in the remotest mountains, where they settle so their horses, cows and sheep can graze freely.

28 – It’s their summer job – During the summer months, Kyrgyz nomads move from cities to the mountains, so their herds of cows, sheep, goats and horses can graze freely.

When the season is over, they sell some of these animals, as well as dairy products and meat. This is the only source of income most of them rely on.

29 – They live in yurts – Yurts are perhaps the most iconic symbol of Kyrgyzstan. These cozy skin-made tents, which can be seen all across the country, can be incredibly warm during the freezing nights.

A yurt camp in Song Kul

30 – You can always stay with them, no matter where you go – Whether you just want to get a warm meal or spend the night, wherever you go trekking, the nomads will always welcome you, at least in my experience.

But remember that, even if they don’t ask, they may expect you to pay something.

31 – Get off the beaten track because the touristic areas are too commercialized – If you go to popular places, such as Song Kul for example, most nomad families have spare yurts, which have been built for tourists.

Whereas there is nothing wrong with staying there, the experience won’t be very authentic.

If you have a chance, try to find yurts around the Alay Valley, the Pamirs or even in less popular treks around Karakol. In these yurt camps, you may sleep in the same yurt as the family and even join in with their daily tasks.

Enjoying some shorpo with a nomadic woman – Kyrgyzstan travel guide

  Horses

32 – It’s the land of horses – Horses are as much part of their culture as the yurts. From epic horse treks over 4,000-meter mountain passes to herds of tens of horses grazing in stunning meadows, if you like horses, you are going to love Kyrgyzstan.

33 – They learn how to ride a horse at the same time as walking – When you are in the mountains, you will see plenty of kids (including little girls) riding big horses.

34 – You must go horse trekking – Trekking over high mountain passes, riding one of those beautiful beasts is one of the highlights of Kyrgyzstan.

Ah, in case you are wondering, no, you don’t need any previous riding experience. A guide will always come with you.

35 – But be careful! – Horses are no joke. They are dangerous so don’t try to gallop if you don’t have any experience.

I actually had a pretty bad accident, felling off a horse in Tash Rabat when I tried to gallop (I am a stupid, inexperienced man). I had to stay in bed for two weeks and fully recovered after one month. I could have been much, much worse, so be careful.

Riding a horse in Tash Rabat

36 – Hiring a horse is cheap – It costs around 700KGS ($10) a day plus 1,000KGS ($15) for the guide, which can be split between several people. If they try to charge you more, they are ripping you off.

37 – But be aware that they eat them! – When you see a herd of horses grazing over a dreamy meadow, don’t get too much in love with them because many of them will end up in a butchery!

38 – Horse games – Horses are so rooted in their culture that they are also main protagonists in their national sports. Among many others, Ulak Tsrtysh is the most popular game, which is a form of polo where they play with a dead goat which is beheaded right before the game begins. Violence in any match is more than guaranteed.

For more information on horses, read: Horse riding in Tash Rabat, Kyrgyzstan

Horse wrestling

  Trekking

39 – Around 90% of the of the country is above 1,500 meters – I’ve told you everything already.

40 – First world-class hikes – For decades, travelers with a slight sense of adventure, who wanted to savor some first-class hikes, used to go to Argentina, Switzerland, and Nepal.

However, just a couple of years ago, the most intrepid travelers quickly realized that trekking in Kyrgyzstan could easily rival Patagonia and the Himalayas.

41 – Some treks I did:  Tien Shan mountains around Karakol, Trekking from Tash Rabat to Chatyr Kul Trekking from Kyzylart to Song Kul  Trekking to Lenin Peak Base camp

For more information on trekking in Kyrgyzstan, read my guide: 

Trekking in Kyrgyzstan, everything you need to know

On my way to the advanced base camp of Lenin peak

  Food and alcohol

42 – Food is not amazing but it’s OK to fill your stomach – You will not love it but, after traveling in Kyrgyzstan for 2 months, I was not especially bored of it.

43 – The typical food – Lagman (a hearty noodle soup), manty (meat dumplings) and shorpo (meat broth) are the staple food.

44 – But don’t trust mantys – While traveling in Kyrgyzstan, the only day I got slightly sick was after eating some street mantys. Be careful where you order them, as the meat they are filled with may have been outside of the fridge for days.

45 – In small towns and villages, only staple food – In bigger towns, you can easily find more choices, like salads, kebab or Western food. However, in villages, you’ll have to fill your stomach with lagman and mantys.

46 – You are expected to know what to order from the moment you enter the restaurant – It’s your first day in Kyrgyzstan, the first time you enter a restaurant, holding a menu written in an alphabet which you’ve never seen before.

However, they will expect you to know what to order within 10 seconds of giving you the menu. If you tell them to wait for 5 or 10 minutes, they won’t really understand you and will stand next to you. It’s very weird but you’ll get used to it. 

47 – If you are vegetarian, you are fucked – It’s said that Kyrgyzstan is the country with the highest consumption of meat per capita in the world.

At most restaurants, it’s extremely difficult to find vegetarian dishes and, when you ask for something vegetarian, they kind of freak out.

Even sometimes, when I ordered a salad, it came with pieces of cooked beef in it. True story.

48 – Even chicken is difficult to find – If you find chicken on a menu, just order it!

49 – Beer and vodka are available everywhere – Welcome to the ex-Soviet republic of Kyrgyzstan! Despite being a Muslim country, alcohol consumption is present everywhere, even in small villages and towns.

50 – Get used to people being completely smashed at 9am – You’ll definitely meet Kyrgyz men who are massively wasted, who can barely walk, quite early in the morning.

51 – You must try kymys – If you go to the mountains and stay with nomads, ask for kymys, which is fermented milk. Most people don’t like it, as it has a weirdly sour, strong taste.

It has some small percentage of alcohol. However, if you don’t like it the first time, give it another chance. I tasted it in four different places and in two of them it was surprisingly good.

52 – Kyryt is the snack in fashion – Kyryt are some sort of cheese and yogurt balls which are available all across Central Asia but Kyrgyzstan is where they are most prevalent.

Again, some people don’t like them but, like kymys, some of them were good, some of them weren’t.

53 – A fruit paradise – If you come during the season, markets are filled with all kinds of fruits, incredibly tasty and ridiculously cheap. In summer, you will find plenty of nectarines, watermelon, strawberries, raspberries and much, much more!

Some very nice girls selling kyryt, the national snack in Kyrgyzstan

  Money

54 – Kyrgyz SOM is the official currency – 1USD = 68KGS

55 – It’s cheap, really cheap – You can easily find home or yurt stays for 10USD a day, including dinner and breakfast. Meals cost around 1-2USD in local eateries and between 2-4USD in mid-range places.

Public transportation within cities costs 15c and buses between nearby towns, less than 1USD. You can live like a king for less than 20USD a day.

56 – ATMs are easy to find and you can withdraw USD – ATMs are available everywhere and, in many of them, you can select the option that you want to cash out USD, instead of KGS.

In my experience, the maximum I was able to get was 200USD at a time.

57 – I’ve never seen so many exchange offices – In Bishkek, there are exchange offices in absolutely every corner. In the rest of the country, it’s also easy to exchange money.

58 – Except for taxi drivers, people don’t tend to rip you off – Perhaps, because mass tourism hasn’t arrived here yet but I didn’t feel anyone trying to rip me off, except for taxi drivers of course.

59 – Expect to pay 10-15% extra for service in any good restaurant – Except in cheap, local eateries, you will always pay an extra 10-15% for service when the bill comes.

Song Kul at sunrise

  Accommodation

60 – Everybody has a home stay – Kyrgyzstan has the peculiarity that, no matter where you go, locals offer their houses to foreigners for home stays. 

Whether it is a remote village or a touristic destination, as soon as you arrive, women will approach you, asking if you want to stay at their house. 

61 – Homestays are superb – They are always comfortable, clean and nicely decorated. You will not want to leave!

62 – They always expect you to pay – Remember that, even if you are in a very remote village and you get randomly invited by someone to stay, even if they don’t ask you for money, they are expecting you to give something.

63 – Price is always per person – If you travel alone, Kyrgyzstan is a good place for you, as price is always per person, not per room.

64 – You must stay in a yurt – Go to the mountains and stay in a yurt with a Kyrgyz family!

A woman preparing our dinner at her house

  Transportation – Kyrgyzstan travel guide

65 – Hitchhiking – Extremely easy and common among the locals. However, remember that, in Kyrgyzstan, everybody is a taxi driver so if you are looking for a free ride, you will need an extra dose of patience.

66 – Mashrutka is the way to go – Mashrutkas are some kind of vans and mini-vans that connect all cities and towns in Kyrgyzstan.

They are extremely cheap and it’s very easy to move around with them, as you can find a station (or more) at every bazaar in absolutely every town.

You just need to get on at the station and say which city or town you want to go.

67 – Shared local taxis – Late in the evening, for long distances or in very remote towns, marshrutkas don’t run that often, so you will have to take a local shared taxi.

They are more expensive but, definitely, faster than marshrutkas. However, some drivers are completely nuts and may drive at over 120km per hour along narrow mountain roads.

68 – Old women have the power – In any bus, marshrutka or taxi you go, women can choose any seat they want, even if you arrived one hour before them. In city buses, always give up your seat to any women over 40-50 years old. If you don’t, they will tell you to stand up.

When I fell off the horse and had to stay in bed for 2 weeks, I was sitting in a marshrutka on the way to the hospital.

I could barely stand up and, when a woman entered and told me to move and I couldn’t explain why I couldn’t, I created a lot of trouble until she understood.

69 – At 40ºC, windows are still closed – Kyrgyz are afraid of air currents and no matter what time of the year it is, even if it’s the peak of the summer and 40ºC outside, they like to travel with the windows closed and the AC switched off.

Sometimes, you can negotiate with the men but, if there are old ladies, forget about it.

70 – Remember to be patient – Ninety percent of Kyrgyzstan is composed of high mountains which means that, every time you want to go from town to town, you will have to cross them, making your journey particularly slow.

In addition, in some more remote destinations, shared taxis and marshrutkas leave once they are full and, sometimes, it takes some time to fill them. Just keep in mind that traveling in Kyrgyzstan can be particularly slow.

Read: Things to do in Astana, Kazakhstan

A yurt camp in Song Kul

  Internet and SIM cards

71 – The best internet in Central Asia – High-speed Wi-Fi is available almost all across the country, even in high altitude towns such as Sary-Mogol and Sary-Tash.

72 – 3G also works pretty well – If you get a local SIM-Card, 3G is also quite fast.

73 – SIM Card – Get a mobile company called O! For just a few dollars, they offer weekly deals for both internet data and calls. This mobile company has street stalls all over the country.

  More information

74 – What is CBT? – CBT (Community Based Tourism) is a very popular tour agency in Kyrgyzstan that can arrange any kind of activity you want to, from yurt stays to trekking, taxis, permits and anything you can think of.

CBT has offices all over the country and it is so popular because, despite being a tour agency, they offer very cheap and competitive prices.

However, bear in mind that, of course, it will always be cheaper to arrange things on your own.

75 – All my articles about Kyrgyzstan – Find them here:

Backpacking in Kyrgyzstan: The ultimate travel itinerary Horse riding in Tash Rabat A beginner’s guide to trekking in Kyrgyzstan Trekking in Karakol China-Kyrgyzstan border crossing Kyrgyzstan-Tajikistan border crossing 10 Reasons to visit Kyrgyzstan Trekking independently to Song Kul (Planet D guest post) Lenin Peak base camp (Nomadasaurus Guest post)

More articles about Central Asia – Check all my guides and articles about Tajikistan, Uzbekistan, and Kazakhstan.

You are traveling to a neighboring country – Check my guides to Iran or Azerbaijan.

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75 Useful tips for traveling to Kyrgyzstan

From first-class treks to a very accessible nomadic culture, horse riding and hospitable people, Kyrgyzstan is the ultimate destination for those seeking an off the beaten track (but easy) adventure.

After spending two entire months traveling in Kyrgyzstan, I have compiled all the necessary information that will help you plan your trip, from visas and bureaucracy to accommodation, transportation and plenty of cultural facts.

By the way, if you want to keep a track of all my photos and travels, remember to follow @againstthecompass on Instagram. 

This guide contains all the practical information. For places to visit, read: Backpacking in Kyrgyzstan – 1 to 4-week itinerary

    What will you find in this article?

Visa for Kyrgyzstan Travel insurance for Kyrgyzstan When to visit Kyrgyzstan How to get to Kyrgyzstan Is it safe to travel to Kyrgyzstan? Top 5 experiences in Kyrgyzstan Tours in Kyrgyzstan Books for traveling to Kyrgyzstan The country, people, and culture Nomadic life Horses Trekking Food and alcohol Money Accommodation Transportation Internet & SIM card More information

Total transparency – If you like my website and found this post useful, remember that, if you buy anything through any of my links, I will get a small commission at no extra cost to you. These earnings help me maintain and keep Against the Compass going! Thanks

Do you know what a VPN is? A Virtual Private Network allows you to access blocked sites when you travel, as well as it lets you access content only available in your home country (like Netflix), plus it prevents hackers from stealing your personal data. Learn here why you should always use a VPN when you travel

  Visa for Kyrgyzstan

1 – The most liberal visa regime in Central Asia – Most nationalities get a 60-day free visa on arrival, both at the airport and overland.

If you want to renew it, you just need to cross the Kazakh border (1 hour from Bishkek) and come back on the same day.

These countries are: EU/EFTA (except for Bulgaria, Cyprus, and Romania), Australia, Bahrain, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Brunei, Canada, Kuwait, Monaco, New Zealand, Qatar, Saudi Arabia, Singapore, South Korea, United Arab Emirates, United States, Uzbekistan, Vatican City. Japan and Russia can get an indefinite stay. 

2 – Other nationalities can apply for an e-visa – Since September 2017, most of the remaining countries can apply for an e-visa through the official portal. It takes around 1 week and costs 63USD. 

Moreover, if you are in possession of an e-visa, you can travel to Kyrgyzstan both via land and air. 

The countries which are eligible to the e-visa and don’t need LOI are: Albania, Andorra, Argentina, Brazil, Bulgaria, Chile, Cyprus, Indonesia, Israel, Macedonia, Mexico, Montenegro, Oman, Philippines, Romania, San Marino, South Africa, Serbia, Thailand, Turkey, Venezuela.

If you are not on any of the above lists, read the Kyrgyzstan visa section of Caravanistan for further information on visas.

3 – Extending your visa does not seem to be possible anymore – We tried to extend our visa in August 2017 and they said that, since May 2017, extensions aren’t possible anymore. We tried to extend it in both Karakol and Bishkek. 

It is easier to travel to Almaty and come back. 

4 – Overstaying can be expensive – According to what the authorities told us when we couldn’t extend our visas, if we overstayed, the fine could be up to 200USD.

A horse grazing in the middle of the Alay Valley – Kyrgyzstan travel guide

  Travel Insurance for Kyrgyzstan

5 – Get proper travel insurance – If you visit Kyrgyzstan, travel insurance is a must, as accidents do happen in the mountains. Actually, during a horse trek in Tash Rabat, I fell off the horse and had to stay in bed for two weeks.

It was a pretty bad (and scary accident).

I had to go to the hospital, all the way to Bishkek, where they carried out different kinds of tests on me which, in the end, turned out to be expensive.

Luckily, I had World Nomads, the best travel insurance company out there because:

It is the only company that gives unlimited medical coverage

It covers a big bunch of adventure activities, including trekking in high altitudes

Pretty much any nationality can get it

CLICK HERE TO GET YOUR FREE QUOTE FROM WORLD NOMADS

If you want to know more options, read how to find the best backpacking insurance

  When to travel to Kyrgyzstan

6 – My favorite month: September. Why?

July & August would be the ideal season for trekking, especially if you plan to go high in the mountains as, during these two months, the weather is warmer and the likelihood of raining is lower.

However, in 2019, Kyrgyzstan is becoming a popular destination, which means that some areas may be crowded. In September, nevertheless, most crowds will be gone, and the weather will still be warm enough for trekking, and that is why I consider September to be the best month for visiting Kyrgyzstan.

  High season (mid-June to Mid-September) Shoulder season (Spring and Autumn) Low season (mid-November to March) PROS Best season for trekking, loads of nomads In late spring and early autumn, you can do some cool treks Winter landscape, snow, no people CONS Crowded, plus it can be really hot in Bishkek and other low-altitude areas High mountains may be not accessible, unpredictable weather No trekking, no nomads

This was during the first week of July (Archa Tör Pass)

  How to get to Kyrgyzstan

7 – How to travel to Kyrgyzstan by air – Getting to the International Airport of Bishkek is fairly easy, as it has quite a few connections with several airports in Europe. Moreover, you should also check Pegasus, a budget airline from Istanbul with daily flights to Bishkek. Alternatively, check out the flights to Almaty, as they are usually cheaper and it is very close to Bishkek. 

8 – How to travel to Kyrgyzstan by land

China – There are 2 open borders, Irkeshtam and Torugart. Crossing at Torugart requires having a special, expensive Chinese permit. Crossing via Irkeshtam is fairly easy and you can read the full report here. 

Tajikistan – There are 6 border crossings and 4 of them are open to foreigners. The most obvious is the Kyzyl Art border crossing, which is the one that follows the Pamir Highway. For more information, read the latest Caravanistan updates.

Kazakhstan – There are like 7 border crossings, but the easiest ones are Karkara and Kordai. For more information, read the latest Caravanistan updates. 

Uzbekistan – There are nowadays 4 borders but only 3 are open as of 2019. For more information, read the latest Caravanistan updates. 

Kyzyl Art Pass, between Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan

  Is it safe to travel to Kyrgyzstan?

9 – Something you need to know:

The term Stan doesn’t mean a place is dangerous, but Stan means land, so Kyrgyzstan means the land of Kyrgyz. 

Kyrgyzstan is a safe destination. Period. 

I mean, just check the FCO advice and you will see that all they say is that Kyrgyzstan is a very safe country, and here you need to take into account that the FCO advice is always absolutely biased, meaning that tends to see danger where there is not, especially in the Middle East.

Solo travelers will be just fine and whereas I can’t speak for women, I know many women who have been there, and all they told me was positive experiences. 

The only potential danger you may hear about is that Bishkek used to be infamous for its after-midnight crime, mainly targeting drunk people on their way home from the bars. The situation, however, has dramatically improved but, if that is a concern for you, just take a taxi when you go back home.  

  Top 5 experiences in Kyrgyzstan

Remember that, for a complete itinerary, including all the places to visit, plus accommodation & transportation tips, don’t forget to check my Kyrgyzstan guide for the independent traveler. 

Stay with Kyrgyz nomads

Experiencing the nomadic life is one of the greatest Kyrgyz experiences. From staying in a yurt to helping them preparing kurut, their local cheese, during our 2-month journey across the country, we met loads of nomads with we had awesome experiences. 

However, with the tourism increase, some nomadic camps have become too commercial, and what I recommend is that you try to find the most authentic ones. How? Well, by getting off the beaten track but also, if you go to Song Kul, instead of staying at the CBT camp where everybody stays, just go across the lake. 

A really offbeat nomad camp, somewhere in the southern Pamirs

Watch nomad games, but try to find out where the local games happen (don’t go to the touristic ones)

The ancient nomad sports in Kyrgyzstan are just crazy, and bizarre.

From horse wrestling to playing polo with a dead goat instead of an actual ball (Ulak tariysh), the nomadic games of Kyrgyzstan are, definitely, a must-see. 

Every summer, some tourist organizations, like CBT, organize nomad games for tourists, in Song Kul and places like that, but I recommend you find the local ones, as the vibe is just great, plus they do a larger variety of sports. 

To be very honest, I didn’t manage to see a local game in Kyrgyzstan, but I did in Tajikistan, near the Kyrgyz border (where most Tajiks are ethnically Kyrgyz), and it was just awesome.

Go trekking on a horse

Many people may feel bad for riding a horse, but the truth is that Kyrgyzstan is the land of horses and even today, in the rural areas, they are the preferred way of transportation.

Those horses are really used to go over high altitude mountain passes, and you definitely get a different experience, and perspective than going on foot. 

Climbing the Tash Rabat pass – 4,000 meters

Go trekking in some of the most mind-blowing mountains ever

I truly believe that, in a matter of years, Kyrgyzstan will become the trekking destination of reference, competing directly with Nepal and Argentina, and the reason is that its mountains are absolutely jaw-dropping, plus they are much more accessible than any other destination I know. 

Visit the remotest Silk Road Heritage sites

Kyrgyzstan has only a small bunch of Silk Road Heritage sites, but the few it has are truly epic, remote and placed in the most epic locations. 

The most epic Silk Road Heritage site in Kyrgyzstan: Tash Rabat

Something you must know: Kyrgyzstan is about nature and nomadic life  With very few Silk Road Heritage sites compared to its neighbor Uzbekistan, in Kyrgyzstan, there’s not much to do besides wandering around its gorgeous mountains and experiencing the nomadic life. The truth is that, with the exception of Bishkek and Arslanbob, most towns in Kyrgyzstan are pretty boring as there is no distinctive architecture, soul and social life, as Kyrgyzstan has been a nomadic land for many centuries. When you travel in Kyrgyzstan, you will see that towns are merely used as a base to explore the mountains or take a rest from them.

Read: 75 Useful tips for traveling to Uzbekistan

  Tours in Kyrgyzstan

I am sure you already know that I am not really into tours, but if you are short in time and why not, you feel safer and more comfortable with a group or a professional guide, these are some really trips offered by GetYourGuide, a company I like to recommend because you can book budget tours online with just one click. 

7-day Highlights of Kyrgyzstan – 1 week exploring the best of Kyrgyzstan. CLICK HERE TO LEARN MORE

Burana Tower – Day trip to One of the very few Silk Road Heritage sites in Kyrgyzstan. CLICK HERE TO LEARN MORE

Ala Archa Park + Eagle Hunting – A trip to the closest National Park to Bishkek combined with the classic ancient nomad way of hunting. CLICK HERE TO LEARN MORE

Bishkek City Tour – A walking tour around the capital. CLICK HERE TO LEARN MORE

Following nomads – A full day following a group of nomads to learn about their way of living. CLICK HERE TO LEARN MORE

Song Kul Lake – Trip to one of the most epic lakes in Kyrgyzstan. CLICK HERE TO LEARN MORE

CLICK HERE TO SEE ALL TOURS TO KYRGYZSTAN

Burana tower, one of the few Silk Road heritage places in the country

  Books for traveling to Kyrgyzstan

Besides my blog, you may wanna check some book guides:

10 – Kyrgyzstan Guide by Bradt – By far, the best and most complete book guide to Kyrgyzstan. Bradt writes the most awesome guides, as they are always filled with great cultural insights and personal experiences. I always buy their Kindle version for whatever country I go to.

 CLICK HERE TO SEE THE LATEST PRICES ON AMAZON 

  11 – Central Asia Guide by Lonely Planet – A classic. If you are traveling throughout the region, this might be a more economical option, rather than buying one guide oer country.

CLICK HERE TO SEE THE LATEST PRICES ON AMAZON 

  11 – Russian-English phrasebook – No need to say how useful being able to speak in Russian is.

 CLICK HERE TO SEE THE LATEST PRICES ON AMAZON 

  Country, people and culture

12 – Kyrgyzstan used to be part of the Soviet Union – It acquired its independence in 1991, with the collapse of the USSR.

13 – The origin of the Kyrgyz – Kyrgyz people are an ethnic nomadic group which is believed to have come from a region within Siberia, during the 10th and 15th centuries.

Originally, they used to have red hair but, over the centuries, they have mixed with all kinds of groups, especially Mongols and Turks.

14 – Kyrgyz make up 66% of the population – The biggest minority are Uzbeks (15%), followed by Russians (10%).

15 – It’s a Muslim country. Well, not really – Like in most Soviet countries, religion is not a big deal anymore, especially in the north of the country.

In the south, people tend to be more traditional, so you may see more mosques or men with beard and Muslim hats, but nothing relevant. During Ramadan, I was in Bishkek and didn’t see any sign of people fasting.

Alcohol is available everywhere and there is no sex segregation. You will see that women of all ages will always come to you to start a conversation.

16 – However, Saudi Arabia wants to reverse this – They are funding the construction of mosques across the country.

Read: 35 Tips for traveling to Kazakhstan

A very Muslim, nomadic man, which is very rare to see. His wife wears a niqab

17 – Kyrgyz is the national language but Russian is widely spoken – Kyrgyz, a Turkic language, is the country’s official language.

Russian is spoken by most of the population, except in the south of the country, which has a significant Uzbek population who, for some reason, don’t really speak it.

18 – English is a problem – Communicating with people is one of the biggest issues in Kyrgyzstan, as very few people speak English. 

19 – At least, you must learn the Cyrillic alphabet – Extremely useful, especially when it comes to reading restaurant menus and bus directions.

20 – Bishkek is surprisingly Westernized – When you arrive in Bishkek and discover all those restaurants and bars where local people hang out, who dress incredibly well, you realize that this is not what you were expecting.

21 – The rest of the country is more traditional – Outside of Bishkek, most people still live a traditional life, where people’s main life goal is getting married and having children as early as possible. I met several 20-year old women who already had two kids.

22 – Kidnapping brides is still a big deal – And what do I mean by kidnapping brides? In Kyrgyzstan, a man can take a random woman who is just walking on the street to his house and, if both parents agree, he can marry her and the woman can’t say anything.

I know, it’s not a real kidnapping but it’s a crazy tradition and, even today, some locals told me that this is practiced by 20% of the population, especially in small, rural villages.

If you want to know more about, check out this video (2019)

23 – The most hospitable people in Central Asia – In this region, the Kyrgyz are famous for their hospitality. When we went trekking in the mountains, I remember that there was not a single day when someone didn’t invite us to his or her yurt to have some tea and bread with home-made jam and butter.

Traveling in Kyrgyzstan is very pleasant, as the Kyrgyz people, who will always bless you with their smiles, are kind and hospitable by nature.

24 – You can’t believe how clean they are – When you visit Kyrgyzstan, you will realize that these people have a real obsession with cleanliness.

Even in youth hostels, sometimes I could never go to the toilet because there was someone cleaning it. In guest houses and home-stays, women spend the entire day mopping the floor and cleaning the kitchen.

I don’t know whether it’s true or not but, a Russian man told me that, during Soviet times, Kyrgyz people had a bad reputation for being dirty. In order to change this general opinion, they became obsessed with cleanliness.

25 – Girls are pretty, very pretty – Kyrgyz women are stunning, especially in Bishkek. On the other hand, all foreign women say that, in general, Kyrgyz men are not very handsome.

26 – Always remove your shoes – You must always remove shoes when you enter any house, yurt and even hostels and guesthouses.

Read: 70 Tips for traveling to Pakistan

A cute, nomadic girl

  Nomadic life

27 – The most accessible nomadic life in the world – From time immemorial, the ethnic group known as the Kyrgyz have been a nomadic people who tend to move continuously throughout the mountains and valleys of the region with their cattle.

Today, a large proportion of the Kyrgyz population still live a nomadic, traditional life, not very different from their ancestors.

In summer, which is from June to September, you will find hundreds of nomad camps everywhere, either next to the road or in the remotest mountains, where they settle so their horses, cows and sheep can graze freely.

28 – It’s their summer job – During the summer months, Kyrgyz nomads move from cities to the mountains, so their herds of cows, sheep, goats and horses can graze freely.

When the season is over, they sell some of these animals, as well as dairy products and meat. This is the only source of income most of them rely on.

29 – They live in yurts – Yurts are perhaps the most iconic symbol of Kyrgyzstan. These cozy skin-made tents, which can be seen all across the country, can be incredibly warm during the freezing nights.

A yurt camp in Song Kul

30 – You can always stay with them, no matter where you go – Whether you just want to get a warm meal or spend the night, wherever you go trekking, the nomads will always welcome you, at least in my experience.

But remember that, even if they don’t ask, they may expect you to pay something.

31 – Get off the beaten track because the touristic areas are too commercialized – If you go to popular places, such as Song Kul for example, most nomad families have spare yurts, which have been built for tourists.

Whereas there is nothing wrong with staying there, the experience won’t be very authentic.

If you have a chance, try to find yurts around the Alay Valley, the Pamirs or even in less popular treks around Karakol. In these yurt camps, you may sleep in the same yurt as the family and even join in with their daily tasks.

Enjoying some shorpo with a nomadic woman – Kyrgyzstan travel guide

  Horses

32 – It’s the land of horses – Horses are as much part of their culture as the yurts. From epic horse treks over 4,000-meter mountain passes to herds of tens of horses grazing in stunning meadows, if you like horses, you are going to love Kyrgyzstan.

33 – They learn how to ride a horse at the same time as walking – When you are in the mountains, you will see plenty of kids (including little girls) riding big horses.

34 – You must go horse trekking – Trekking over high mountain passes, riding one of those beautiful beasts is one of the highlights of Kyrgyzstan.

Ah, in case you are wondering, no, you don’t need any previous riding experience. A guide will always come with you.

35 – But be careful! – Horses are no joke. They are dangerous so don’t try to gallop if you don’t have any experience.

I actually had a pretty bad accident, felling off a horse in Tash Rabat when I tried to gallop (I am a stupid, inexperienced man). I had to stay in bed for two weeks and fully recovered after one month. I could have been much, much worse, so be careful.

Riding a horse in Tash Rabat

36 – Hiring a horse is cheap – It costs around 700KGS ($10) a day plus 1,000KGS ($15) for the guide, which can be split between several people. If they try to charge you more, they are ripping you off.

37 – But be aware that they eat them! – When you see a herd of horses grazing over a dreamy meadow, don’t get too much in love with them because many of them will end up in a butchery!

38 – Horse games – Horses are so rooted in their culture that they are also main protagonists in their national sports. Among many others, Ulak Tsrtysh is the most popular game, which is a form of polo where they play with a dead goat which is beheaded right before the game begins. Violence in any match is more than guaranteed.

For more information on horses, read: Horse riding in Tash Rabat, Kyrgyzstan

Horse wrestling

  Trekking

39 – Around 90% of the of the country is above 1,500 meters – I’ve told you everything already.

40 – First world-class hikes – For decades, travelers with a slight sense of adventure, who wanted to savor some first-class hikes, used to go to Argentina, Switzerland, and Nepal.

However, just a couple of years ago, the most intrepid travelers quickly realized that trekking in Kyrgyzstan could easily rival Patagonia and the Himalayas.

41 – Some treks I did:  Tien Shan mountains around Karakol, Trekking from Tash Rabat to Chatyr Kul Trekking from Kyzylart to Song Kul  Trekking to Lenin Peak Base camp

For more information on trekking in Kyrgyzstan, read my guide: 

Trekking in Kyrgyzstan, everything you need to know

On my way to the advanced base camp of Lenin peak

  Food and alcohol

42 – Food is not amazing but it’s OK to fill your stomach – You will not love it but, after traveling in Kyrgyzstan for 2 months, I was not especially bored of it.

43 – The typical food – Lagman (a hearty noodle soup), manty (meat dumplings) and shorpo (meat broth) are the staple food.

44 – But don’t trust mantys – While traveling in Kyrgyzstan, the only day I got slightly sick was after eating some street mantys. Be careful where you order them, as the meat they are filled with may have been outside of the fridge for days.

45 – In small towns and villages, only staple food – In bigger towns, you can easily find more choices, like salads, kebab or Western food. However, in villages, you’ll have to fill your stomach with lagman and mantys.

46 – You are expected to know what to order from the moment you enter the restaurant – It’s your first day in Kyrgyzstan, the first time you enter a restaurant, holding a menu written in an alphabet which you’ve never seen before.

However, they will expect you to know what to order within 10 seconds of giving you the menu. If you tell them to wait for 5 or 10 minutes, they won’t really understand you and will stand next to you. It’s very weird but you’ll get used to it. 

47 – If you are vegetarian, you are fucked – It’s said that Kyrgyzstan is the country with the highest consumption of meat per capita in the world.

At most restaurants, it’s extremely difficult to find vegetarian dishes and, when you ask for something vegetarian, they kind of freak out.

Even sometimes, when I ordered a salad, it came with pieces of cooked beef in it. True story.

48 – Even chicken is difficult to find – If you find chicken on a menu, just order it!

49 – Beer and vodka are available everywhere – Welcome to the ex-Soviet republic of Kyrgyzstan! Despite being a Muslim country, alcohol consumption is present everywhere, even in small villages and towns.

50 – Get used to people being completely smashed at 9am – You’ll definitely meet Kyrgyz men who are massively wasted, who can barely walk, quite early in the morning.

51 – You must try kymys – If you go to the mountains and stay with nomads, ask for kymys, which is fermented milk. Most people don’t like it, as it has a weirdly sour, strong taste.

It has some small percentage of alcohol. However, if you don’t like it the first time, give it another chance. I tasted it in four different places and in two of them it was surprisingly good.

52 – Kyryt is the snack in fashion – Kyryt are some sort of cheese and yogurt balls which are available all across Central Asia but Kyrgyzstan is where they are most prevalent.

Again, some people don’t like them but, like kymys, some of them were good, some of them weren’t.

53 – A fruit paradise – If you come during the season, markets are filled with all kinds of fruits, incredibly tasty and ridiculously cheap. In summer, you will find plenty of nectarines, watermelon, strawberries, raspberries and much, much more!

Some very nice girls selling kyryt, the national snack in Kyrgyzstan

  Money

54 – Kyrgyz SOM is the official currency – 1USD = 68KGS

55 – It’s cheap, really cheap – You can easily find home or yurt stays for 10USD a day, including dinner and breakfast. Meals cost around 1-2USD in local eateries and between 2-4USD in mid-range places.

Public transportation within cities costs 15c and buses between nearby towns, less than 1USD. You can live like a king for less than 20USD a day.

56 – ATMs are easy to find and you can withdraw USD – ATMs are available everywhere and, in many of them, you can select the option that you want to cash out USD, instead of KGS.

In my experience, the maximum I was able to get was 200USD at a time.

57 – I’ve never seen so many exchange offices – In Bishkek, there are exchange offices in absolutely every corner. In the rest of the country, it’s also easy to exchange money.

58 – Except for taxi drivers, people don’t tend to rip you off – Perhaps, because mass tourism hasn’t arrived here yet but I didn’t feel anyone trying to rip me off, except for taxi drivers of course.

59 – Expect to pay 10-15% extra for service in any good restaurant – Except in cheap, local eateries, you will always pay an extra 10-15% for service when the bill comes.

Song Kul at sunrise

  Accommodation

60 – Everybody has a home stay – Kyrgyzstan has the peculiarity that, no matter where you go, locals offer their houses to foreigners for home stays. 

Whether it is a remote village or a touristic destination, as soon as you arrive, women will approach you, asking if you want to stay at their house. 

61 – Homestays are superb – They are always comfortable, clean and nicely decorated. You will not want to leave!

62 – They always expect you to pay – Remember that, even if you are in a very remote village and you get randomly invited by someone to stay, even if they don’t ask you for money, they are expecting you to give something.

63 – Price is always per person – If you travel alone, Kyrgyzstan is a good place for you, as price is always per person, not per room.

64 – You must stay in a yurt – Go to the mountains and stay in a yurt with a Kyrgyz family!

A woman preparing our dinner at her house

  Transportation – Kyrgyzstan travel guide

65 – Hitchhiking – Extremely easy and common among the locals. However, remember that, in Kyrgyzstan, everybody is a taxi driver so if you are looking for a free ride, you will need an extra dose of patience.

66 – Mashrutka is the way to go – Mashrutkas are some kind of vans and mini-vans that connect all cities and towns in Kyrgyzstan.

They are extremely cheap and it’s very easy to move around with them, as you can find a station (or more) at every bazaar in absolutely every town.

You just need to get on at the station and say which city or town you want to go.

67 – Shared local taxis – Late in the evening, for long distances or in very remote towns, marshrutkas don’t run that often, so you will have to take a local shared taxi.

They are more expensive but, definitely, faster than marshrutkas. However, some drivers are completely nuts and may drive at over 120km per hour along narrow mountain roads.

68 – Old women have the power – In any bus, marshrutka or taxi you go, women can choose any seat they want, even if you arrived one hour before them. In city buses, always give up your seat to any women over 40-50 years old. If you don’t, they will tell you to stand up.

When I fell off the horse and had to stay in bed for 2 weeks, I was sitting in a marshrutka on the way to the hospital.

I could barely stand up and, when a woman entered and told me to move and I couldn’t explain why I couldn’t, I created a lot of trouble until she understood.

69 – At 40ºC, windows are still closed – Kyrgyz are afraid of air currents and no matter what time of the year it is, even if it’s the peak of the summer and 40ºC outside, they like to travel with the windows closed and the AC switched off.

Sometimes, you can negotiate with the men but, if there are old ladies, forget about it.

70 – Remember to be patient – Ninety percent of Kyrgyzstan is composed of high mountains which means that, every time you want to go from town to town, you will have to cross them, making your journey particularly slow.

In addition, in some more remote destinations, shared taxis and marshrutkas leave once they are full and, sometimes, it takes some time to fill them. Just keep in mind that traveling in Kyrgyzstan can be particularly slow.

Read: Things to do in Astana, Kazakhstan

A yurt camp in Song Kul

  Internet and SIM cards

71 – The best internet in Central Asia – High-speed Wi-Fi is available almost all across the country, even in high altitude towns such as Sary-Mogol and Sary-Tash.

72 – 3G also works pretty well – If you get a local SIM-Card, 3G is also quite fast.

73 – SIM Card – Get a mobile company called O! For just a few dollars, they offer weekly deals for both internet data and calls. This mobile company has street stalls all over the country.

  More information

74 – What is CBT? – CBT (Community Based Tourism) is a very popular tour agency in Kyrgyzstan that can arrange any kind of activity you want to, from yurt stays to trekking, taxis, permits and anything you can think of.

CBT has offices all over the country and it is so popular because, despite being a tour agency, they offer very cheap and competitive prices.

However, bear in mind that, of course, it will always be cheaper to arrange things on your own.

75 – All my articles about Kyrgyzstan – Find them here:

Backpacking in Kyrgyzstan: The ultimate travel itinerary Horse riding in Tash Rabat A beginner’s guide to trekking in Kyrgyzstan Trekking in Karakol China-Kyrgyzstan border crossing Kyrgyzstan-Tajikistan border crossing 10 Reasons to visit Kyrgyzstan Trekking independently to Song Kul (Planet D guest post) Lenin Peak base camp (Nomadasaurus Guest post)

More articles about Central Asia – Check all my guides and articles about Tajikistan, Uzbekistan, and Kazakhstan.

You are traveling to a neighboring country – Check my guides to Iran or Azerbaijan.

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