Some Chinese fashion styles
Disclaimer: The following styles and their definitions were observed by me and are not authoritative. I am only familiar with Hanfu and if I made mistakes and picked the wrong photo examples or fraud shops, please let me know. Also, this post focused on women's fashion because 1. I am not into men's fashion so I don't know much about them. 2. The algorithm also knew that so I don't really see them.
汉服/Hànfú
传统服饰/Chuántǒng fúshì (传服/chuán fú)
清汉女/Qīng hàn nǚ
旗装/Qí zhuāng
旗袍/Qípáo
新国风/Xīn guó fēng、新中式/Xīn zhōngshì
汉元素/hàn yuánsù
茶艺服/Cháyì fú or 茶服/chá fú
唐装/Tángzhuāng
中山装/Zhōngshānzhuāng.
汉服/Hànfú
The ethnic clothing of Han Chinese (not the Han Dynasty).
There was a prohibition of Han clothing and hair styles in Qing dynasty, i.e. the 剃发易服/Tìfā yìfú qu Queue Ordinance, so modern hanfu is an on-going revivalist moment.
Modern hanfu are based on archeological evidences with minor twists to suit modern like, such as the type of fabric used and cut.
As a result, there are many types of garments and sub-styles. The figure above shows some examples.
While which style should be included and promoted is a constant debate, but in general, the cutout line is the Qing dynasty (however small accessories such as purses are alright).
传统服饰/Chuántǒng fúshì (传服/chuán fú)
No example because I am not sure who identified with this label.
The Chinese traditional clothing.
This either referred to historical clothing restorers (regardless of ethnicity) or people who promoted that the traditional clothing of Han people should be in the late Ming dynasty style, since "people should get up at where they had fallen".
They might be agreeable with the hanfu movement or not.
清汉女/Qīng hàn nǚ
The clothing of women of Han Chinese in the Qing dynasty.
Since the Queue Ordinance wasn't that strictly enforced on Han women, the Han women clothing in the Qing dynasty had quickly absorbed Manchurian's elements while retaining the characteristic two-piece silhouette. (Manchurian women wore a one-piece robe.)
I believed it appeared around 2019 when the styles of hanfu had moved to fully embroidered surface to a more tone down brocade or weaved patterns.
旗装/Qí zhuāng
The ethnic clothing of Man people (Manchurian).
The women's clothing are generally in round collar opened on the left (youren) with straight sleeves.
The most basic item is a 衬衣/chènyī, which doesn't have vents.
However, the most common item I have seen on the street is a 氅衣/chǎng yī (probably rented), which should be worn on top of 衬衣, since they have side vents.
They usually have no standing-up collar but in some cases a fake collar could be worn.
On top of changyi they could wear a 马褂/mǎguà、坎肩/kǎnjiān、褂裥/guà jiǎn.
旗袍/Qípáo
The Chinese clothing of women originated from the Minguo era, known in English as qipao or cheongsam.
The male equivalent is 长衫/chángshān.
Currently in style is the retro-cut, while uses the traditional flat cut (no shoulder seam) instead of the more body-hugging modern draping style.
There are also many variations and cuts, but the overall silhouette is similar.
新国风/Xīn guó fēng、新中式/xīn zhōngshì
Innovative clothing that was inspired by Chinese traditional aesthetic.
It is an umbrella term.
汉元素/hàn yuánsù refers to clothing inspired by hanfu specifically, while xinguofeng could be inspired by qipao and other ethnic clothing. In addition, hanyuansu is a term more familair to hanfu-ers, so the target audience is slightly different between hanyuansu and xinguofeng.
茶艺服/Cháyì fú or 茶服/chá fú,i.e tea dress, which aimed to convey a zen and rustic aesthetic could also be considered a sub-style. They are often worn by retirees, artists or workers in tea shops, calligraphy shops, Chinese spas, Chinese traditional medicine clinics etc.
The older "Chinese style" generally refers to 唐装/Tángzhuāng and 中山装/Zhōngshānzhuāng.
Tangzhuang (Tang Suit) was a men suit characterized with a mandarin collar with a row of 盘扣/pán kòu frogs in the middle. There are two pockets at the bottom front of the suit. It was a well-known looked worldwide due to the 2001 APEC summit. However, other clothes resembled a 马褂/mǎguà could also be called a tangzhuang.
Zhongshanzhuang was designed and named after Sun Yat-sen but was often known in English as the Mao Suit. Mao Suit was characterised with a 关门领/Guānmén lǐng(“closed-door collar", but also known as Mao collar in English) with a row of round buttons. There are four pockets at the front of the suit.
中华lolita/Zhōnghuá lolita
A sub-style of the lolita fashion inspired by cheongsam/qipao, hanfu or other Chinese artistic elements.
The same item could appeared in different styles, but with different cut and accessories. The following examples showed a mamianqun used in different styles.
THE END
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K or N for Joe and/or Nicky
K. On the edge of consciousness.
Yusuf wakes slowly, so slowly that he can’t see and isn’t even sure he can open his eyes, only half-sure he still has eyes, and that’s how he knows there’s something very, very wrong. He can’t move, can’t hear, can’t even smell anything. He doesn’t remember exactly what happened to him, but every part of him is burning, and he’s fairly sure the weird aching sensation in his head is his skull knitting itself back together, which. He really, really didn’t need to know what that feels like.
There’s a scraping in his chest when he breathes in, but at least he’s breathing.
Where is he? He could be anywhere. He could be in the middle of the street, could have been dragged away from the fighting from someone who had seen him breathing through a wound that should have killed him immediately. When he wakes, what will he find? Will they have taken his weapon? How long has he been dead?
Will Nicolò be able to find him, if they are separated? Will he even try?
Slowly but steadily, he starts to hear something: a high pitched whistling that sounds like it’s coming from deep inside his own head. The darkness begins to lift, leaving flickering amber lights across his vision, and a shadow in front of him.
There’s a voice, too, one that sharpens into words as Yusuf’s hearing begins to return. He doesn’t understand their meaning, but the cadence of them and the voice itself is familiar.
“Are you awake?” Nicolò asks softly, switching to Arabic.
Yusuf tries to make a sound in response. Whether it’s audible he doesn’t know, because the only noise he can really make is a rasping exhale, but Nicolò hushes him anyway.
“Do not… you can be slow,” Nicolò says. He’s more comfortable with the sounds of the language now, but still doesn’t always string sentences together well. “We are safe. I am here.”
He’s made aware of where his hand is by the feeling of Nicolò reaching for it. Yusuf manages to make an actual sound this time, but still can’t form words. Nicolò squeezes his hand gently.
“I am here,” he says again.
Eventually, Yusuf’s skull seems to piece itself back together fully, and his vision sharpens, letting him see that they’re backed into the corner of the two remaining intact walls of a house ravaged by fire, Nicolò crouched in front of him with his sword in hand. There’s a trail of blood leading to where Yusuf is lying now, and a section of the room that has collapsed. He can piece together enough. Nicolò would have had to drag him over here.
This time, he manages to make a sound, even if he can’t quite form words. Nicolò looks down at him over his shoulder, and there is blood on his face and in his hair, and only then does Yusuf notice the bodies in the room.
“Okay?” Nicolò asks.
Yusuf manages to nod, and it sends a spike of pain along his spine. Nicolò turns slightly to look at him properly.
“You are almost done, I think,” he says. “You did not… you were asleep for a long time. I did not know if…”
“Nicolò,” Yusuf finally manages, hoarse.
“Rest,” Nicolò says. “I am here.”
(letter asks)
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