#rayon fabric synthetic

[tradeunofabrics]

Explore the enchanting world of rayon fabrics and discover its fascinating history, versatile applications, and myriad benefits. Read our informative blog today!

[textiles-now24]

FUKUHARA KNITTING MACHINE

Fukuhara Industrial & Trading Co., Ltd. is a Japanese manufacturer known for its high-quality circular knitting machines and needles. Here are some details about their knitting machines: Circular Knitting Machines: Fukuhara is the only manufacturer in the world that produces both Circular Knitting Machines and Knitting Needles¹. They offer a range of circular knitting machines, including…

[vincentbriggs]

Hello! I am newer to the sewing craft and hobby. I was wondering if you had any tips or thoughts on your favorite fabrics to use, qualities to look out for, and any other general tips you might want to give to a blooming designer. Most of my work is gonna be more whimsical and less historical, but that doesn't mean I can't use all the help and tips I can get going in! I will write down any valuable information you can give in my notes.

That is a VERY broad question and I don't really know how to answer without knowing more specifically what you're sewing! I do 18th century menswear, and very 18th century inspired everyday clothing, but I have no idea what you're looking to make, so I don't know if we need the same fabrics. Like, when I hear "more whimsical and less historical", for me that would be something like a tailored suit that looks like it's made of leaves, but for someone else it might be a big floofy ballgown.

But to answer the bit about my favourite fabrics - I prefer woven fabrics in natural fibres with no stretch. I use a lot of linen, cotton, wool, and some silk and rayon, with the weight and specific kind of fabric depending on what garment I'm making and what season it's for. Usually they're medium or heavy weight, with the exception of shirts. My favourite thing for nightgowns is thrifted 100% cotton bedsheets, my favourite thing for shirts is lightweight linen, and I like making pants out of heavy cotton and jackets and waistcoats out of wool suiting, but there are lots more materials I've used for these things.

And there are people who like to sew with stretch knits, or who use a lot of shiny synthetics, or lightweight gauzy fabrics! There are tons of different kinds of fabric, and the ones that are best for you will depend on what kind of garments you're making, what kind of wear they'll get, and your budget. (Though I will say that I'm a polyester & acrylic hater. Sometimes synthetics can be nice if you need something sparkly and shiny that can't be done with natural fibres, and I do usually machine sew with poly thread, but polyester fabrics are often a Bad Texture and they don't breathe and I avoid wearing or working with them.)

One thing that might be helpful is going to your nearest fabric store and touching lots of fabric and reading the labels. It's not the same as actually sewing with them, but it should help you get a bit more familiar with the textures of various weaves/how much they fray/etc. (Also looking at the fibre content on the labels of your own clothing, even though these days far too many things are polyester, or some sort of blend, and there are lots of great fabrics people are missing out on.)

I'd also recommend Nicole Rudolph's videos on fabric - she's got ones on wool, silk, linen, cotton, and tailoring supplies, which ought to give you a good idea of the various qualities of those particular natural fibres.

Here's a link to my FAQ, which has some other sewing questions I've answered over the years.

[hetalianhistorian]

Orders for the FanFun's Hetalia phone shoulder and fragment cases bags are open for preorders until July 10th!!

Source link: https://fanfunmarket.co.jp/artist/80-hetalia

Each bag has a flower and color based on each of the main cast. A shoulder strap bag will cost ¥15,400 yen. The pouch is approximately 17.0cm in length, 10.0cm in width, and 1.8cm in thickness. The shoulder strap will be around 110cm. Its body is made from synthetic leather with the fabric consisting on rayon, the metal made from zinc alloy, and the stones being made from glass. The fragment cases are sold separately, each costing about ¥9,900 yen each. The size is approximately 12.0cm in length and 7.0cm in width. The material is the same as the shoulder strap bag. The zipper will have the character's name engraved on the front and the back of it including different greetings from each character's language. Here are the different engravements:

Italy: "Ciao"

Germany: "Guten Tag"

Japan: "Konnichiwa"

America: "Hey"

England: "Hello"

France: "Bonjour"

Russia: "Privet"

China: "Ni Hao"

Order period will be from June 13th to July 10th. Preorders will be shipped out in late October 2024. You can preorder here through the FanFun website! Note: Not all stores ship internationally. A proxy or forwarding service may have to be utilized. Please keep this in mind and do your own research when buying Hetalia goods from Japan!

[fashionsfromhistory]

As someone who can't wear fabrics that are itchy, (rough) even if it washed in softener. Can you give advice on what to look for? I need more business clothes but it seems all the work pants I find for the office is made of that fabric.

Oh this is a tough one. Unfortunately, you might have to go for a higher price point. A fix that worked for an actress I used to work with was wearing satiny cuddl duds in the winter and tights in the summer under all of her pants but YMMV.

(this next part assumes you're US American but I think the idea is applicable everywhere)

First, I would recommend going a slightly fancy department store like Nordstroms. You don't have to buy anything, just feel some clothing to figure out what fabrics you like and write it down. I would recommend going to a higher end store vs like JC Pennys because manufactures like to lie about fabric content and in my personal experience it's less of an issue if you go to a more expensive store. If you're like me, anything rayon, wool, or polyester is a no-go. Semi synthetic fabrics are hit or miss. I'm personally good with silks, satins, linens, and cottons. (If you're not allergic to wool, apparently merino wool is great)

If you're close to a bigger city, you'll probably be good to shop in store. Smaller towns you'll probably have to do online shoping in order to avoid certain fabrics. I haven't shopped at all these but off the top of my head some good stores to check out might be: Quince, Universal Standard, Good American, Amour Vet, Madewell, and Macy's but be real vigilant about checking the fabric content. Rich People Goodwill can have some great stuff but with the rise of thrifting it can be a slog (and real frustrating depending on your size)

May the odds be in your favor on the hunt for non scratchy clothes <3

[bomberqueen17]

Acid Dyes In Squirt Bottles: kinda a tutorial

So I bought some silk scarves with an eye toward dyeing them to use for giftwrapping for Christmas, and I'd idly meant to research techniques but suddenly realized I'm running out of time.

Almost all the tutorials on dyeing anything at all that I can find lately are for ice dyeing. Which is cool and I love that that's so trendy now. But some of the ones I've watched...

Well, see the point of ice dyeing is that powdered dyes often split into components and so you get really cool edge-effects where the different pigments in the dye penetrate the fabric differently because of the slow wicking action of the melting ice etc. I watched a tutorial where someone just had three primary colors, which are generally pure pigments, and did this, and I was like, you could have put those into squirt bottles and saved yourself about 8 hours plus all the time you spent making that ice. It did give a nicely feathered spectrum effect but the ice mostly did not contribute anything to the process.

But what I did learn from that tutorial was some advice on how to get acid dyes to strike in a cold low-immersion process. So I'm going to write up what I did, since that's what I was actually looking for, and every bit of information I can currently find is contained in overly-long videos that spend most of their runtime on irrelevant stuff.

Mostly this is for my own reference later, as I'm now old enough that I keep stumbling across things I've made and being like "wait I don't remember how I did this. I really made this? I have to have, nobody else lives here. How did I do this??" So anyway, overly-long and underly-technical writeup below the cut. Pictures to follow in a separate post.

What do I mean, cold low-immersion process??

Immersion is how most dyeing works. You make a dye bath, and you dunk your fabric into it. Low-immersion means you lie your stuff all out on some flat surface, maybe over a wire rack maybe over a sheet of plastic, and just put enough dye on for it to soak in. That's low-immersion, and generally is how you're gonna get multiple unmixed colors on one object.

and cold? Well, acid dyes, which work best on protein-based fibers like wool and silk, need heat to strike, or actually bond to the fabric. If you just dunk some silk in a dye bath and then rinse it, the dye mostly rinses out. You need heat to set it.

Let's back up a second-- acid dyes?? So there are two main types of dyes you use on fabric. Acid dyes are called that because you add some vinegar once the dye has soaked in, to get it to stick. (Yes, you need acid and heat!) The other kind, which you usually use for ice dyeing, is fiber-reactive dyes. Fiber-reactive are what you want for cotton, linen-- plant-based fibers, and some synthetics. (Nylon works with acid dyes for some reason, rayon needs fiber-based. I don't remember why but the Internet surely knows, it's surely very simple.)

So anyway. Fiber-reactive dyes are applied to fabric that's been pre-treated with soda ash and then set without much heat, though they do need to "cure" at a high temperature-- it doesn't have to be as hot as with acid dyes though. (A black plastic bag in the sun, an electric blanket lying overtop the bag they're in, that level of heat at most.) So they're the usual, traditional type of dyes you use for tie-dyeing, which is normally done on cotton t-shirts, and which very often is done with low-immersion methods to let you get a bunch of colors on there, are fiber reactive dyes. Many many many tutorials exist for this, including how to tie them. Very cool stuff.

I wanted that effect on silk though.

(*the alkali pre-rinse is fine for cotton and linen and such. alkali on silk is Generally Bad News. This is another reason people generally don't do fiber reactive dyes on silk. Silk shrugs off acid reasonably well but alkali is no bueno. Also for the record never ever try to bleach silk for any reason, that dissolves it. Now You Know!)

So. I did find this tutorial from Dharma Trading, about space dyeing. Remember when space-dyed stuff was trendy?? Many of you whippersnappers probably don't. It used to be cool and is probably what led to the invention of ice-dyeing, which clearly like A Person invented but I have no idea who and I bet finding out would be difficult so my ADHD ass is NOT going down that rabbit hole right.

So i tried that. I used aluminum foil instead of plastic wrap for the simple reason that my kitchen is currently torn apart and all my worldly goods in cardboard boxes but I had a roll of aluminum foil in the basement for some reason. I put down a vinyl tablecloth on my washing machine and used it as a work surface. And I found a broken old steamer insert and set it in an old aluminum pot that lives in the basement.

I mixed up squirt bottles of four colors of acid dye in approximately the proportions from the Dharma tutorial. I don't have measuring implements currently, see above re: kitchen (I'm planning on retiring a number of my measuring implements to serve in fiber arts, and keeping only the nice ones for the new nice kitchen, but that hasn't happened yet) so it was all very approximate.

And then I just lay each silk scarf out on the aluminum foil on the dryer and went to town.

I learned to be careful and sparing with the amount of dyes, to keep them from pooling underneath the material-- silk scarves aren't very absorbent. Any excess dye pooling on the aluminum foil will of course spread and get muddy. So what I wound up doing was working from right to left (on my left was the laundry sink), and doing my lightest color on the right and my darkest on the left, and then when I was done, I used an eyedropper to apply white vinegar to lock in the pigment, and then I picked the whole works up very carefully and tipped it to the left and let everything extra run off into the sink. So having my, say, fuschia run across the back of what was supposed to be a dark purple section didn't lead to any notable color contamination. One colorway had bright lemon yellow in it, and I was incredibly careful not to let any smudges or drips touch that-- kept it on the right of my workspace, propped up slightly. The yellow draining across the red and purple of that colorway didn't cause a problem, but I did wind up with a fingerprint of darker color in the yellow area (I think that's what caused the blot anyway).

Anyway, once the dye was all applied, and I'd let it drip into the sink for a moment, I then folded up each scarf into its own packet, careful to still keep the lighter end upward, and put it into my busted-ass steamer basket which made this easier because one of the legs has fallen off it, see, so it tilts anyway, that's why I retired it, and put the lid on and steamed each packet for about half an hour to 45 minutes.

At the end of that I pulled each packet out (there were overlaps, where I'd put a second packet in halfway through the first one. Most of the Strict Rules About Steaming Silk don't apply to this process because drips aren't a problem, dips in temperature that might lead to uneven mottling aren't a problem, this is just meant to be pretty color splotches with random patterns so literally none of the intimidating stuff you have to do to achieve perfection are a problem here), I let it cool off a bit and then unwrapped it and rinsed the scarf. Not much color came off them, and I was able to reuse the foil, which it's not that I'm being eco-friendly so much as that I only had the one roll of foil with not much left on it and this was the last day I could really do this, so. Not very scientific, but in the end I really was very thrifty LOL. Yes! I was being eco-friendly, that's why i'm like this.

I then let the scarves dry on my drying rack overnight, and came back the next day to collect them. I brought them all back to my mother-out-law's to wash them in her washing machine since mine is currently not properly hooked up (additional nightmare, love it)-- I figured this wouldn't be messy in her impeccable laundry room and I was right, very little dye to rinse out. Gave them a wash with dharma's professional detergent, then a rinse with milsoft, then an extra rinse, and I've now let them dry again, ironed them, and have them in a plastic bag with some perfume because the detergent smells kind of awful LOL. I'm letting them sit like that for a day or two and then I'll get them out and package them up for gifts.

[aeide-thea]

How different materials decompose | Permanent Style

Last week I wrote about the loopwheel knitter Aigat, one of the most specialised producers of loopwheel fabric - for sweatshirts, T-shirts etc - in Japan.  Something I wanted to save for a separate article was the display they had in their reception, where they’d decomposed different fabrics in their garden. The factory is set in attractive grounds, with water pouring down from the mountains behind. Establishing them, and running the factory along environmental lines, has been a passion of the founder. In the middle of the garden is a pleasant pond, but a few years ago the team filled the whole thing and parts of the garden with lengths of fabric, made up of different fibres (cotton, rayon, polyester). The idea was to have personal, physical experience of how much better natural fabrics - like their own - break down in the environment. […] The rayon was the first to go - a synthetic fabric, but of course made with regenerated natural cellulose, so it broke down easily. The cotton is only just visible, lying on the table at the bottom, but it broke down just a little slower than the rayon, mostly eaten away in the water after 50 days, and completely gone after 100. But the polyester kept going and going. After 200 days, in water or soil, it had shrunk a little but was otherwise fine. Perhaps scariest of all is the cotton/polyester mix. You might think this would be a little better than pure polyester, but it's pretty much the same, despite some of the cotton breaking down.

I wasn’t surprised at the results, but it was powerful seeing the process rather than just being told about it. It also made me appreciate rayon (or viscose) a little more. There are lots of things wrong with it of course, including the materials cut down to make it and the processes used, but it is certainly better than polyester and nylon in this respect. Other natural materials used in high-end menswear, such as wools and vegetable-tanned leathers, are also better in that way. We probably can't get into all the nuances of material sustainability here - and volume of consumption is generally the biggest issue - but on this one aspect the point is pretty compelling.

[dresshistorynerd]

hi! i’ve seen you mention that linen is antibacterial - are there any other fabrics that are antibacterial? i tried looking it up but google would only give me info for fabrics that have received synthetic antibacterial treatments or coatings

Yes! Many natural fabrics are anti-bacterial. It works much better than the coatings too, because the coating will wear off.

Wool is extremely anti-bacterial. You don't actually have to wash it mostly ever, usually only airing it will be enough, because of the anti-bacterial qualities. The other common animal fiber silk is also anti-bacterial.

From the (common) plant fibers other than linen also hemp, jute and nettle are anti-bacterial (they are all fairly similar fibers as linen). Cotton and rayon (and other similar chemically modified plant fibers) are basically the only (common) natural textiles that are not anti-bacterial.

[fernthewhimsical]

The magic of fabrics

[Disclaimer, an old website post that I never wrote down the sources for, though most was wikipedia. I never posted it here but wanted to share]

Introduction: In witchcraft, everything has its own magic. There are entire books on, amongst others, the properties of trees, gemstones and colours. These properties help us guide our magic in the right direction. They help us focus on our goal and add their magic to our own, strengthening it. A lot of witches craft their own talismans, pouches and tools. Using fabrics for their crafts, aligning them with the colour they need to work their spells. But what about the fabrics themselves? The way they were made, the materials they were made from, their history and myth. Why limit yourself to only the colour when working with fabrics? This essay is made up out of three pieces. First the correspondences, an easy and fast way to see what the different fabrics mean and what their magical properties are. The correspondences were put together from history, myth, folklore, dream symbols and my own thoughts about the fabrics. Secondly the trivia, fun facts about the different fabrics which explain where the properties came from. It explains how the fabrics have been used in the past and the myths surrounding them. The final part is a list of materials, showing what the fabrics are made of. This list is included because it can add more depth to the choice of fabric. For example; flannel can be made from wool, cotton or synthetic fibers. Wool flannel could have very different magical properties than synthetic flannel. The same could be said for linen made of flax or linen made of hemp. This essay shows the magic of fabrics. Every symbol used in witchcraft will add its magic to the ritual or to the craft. So this knowledge is not just for the pouches and talismans, but also for ritual robes, magical cords, and everything else the witch could think of. Like everything in magic the possibilities are endless! Happy Crafting!

Correspondences: Canvas: creativity, new beginnings, potential, possibilities Cashmere: comfort, warmth, luxury Chiffon: feminine, delicacy, vulnerable, elegance Cotton: simplicity, harvest, protection, rain, good luck Denim: ruggedness, durability, labour, working, independence, rebellion Felt: protection, good luck, wealth (white felt), sacrifice, strength Flannel: mojo bags, comfort, relaxation, warmth Flax: weakness of man, prosperity, gift of the gods, Hulda Gauze: uncertainty in wealth, healing Hemp: travel, burial, trance, opening gates and doors, vision, enlightenment, Bast Lace: sacredness, rite of passage, feminine, privilege, sensuality, sexuality, duality Lamé: luxury, wealth, royalty, sun or moon Leather: protection, covering, animals, instinct Linen: righteousness and purity, does not cause sweat, rest, elegance, luxury, sophistication, light and purity, (display of) wealth Satin: lustrous, sensual, shine, love Silk: wealth, luxury, softness, smoothness, prestige, transformation, magical insulation Velvet: distinction, honor, sensuality, emotions, royalty, leadership Voile: secrets, unveiling, hidden, wedding Wool: Hope, renewal, spinning, women’s crafts, durability, comfort and warmth

Astrological signs and fabric correspondences: Aries: lamb’s wool Taurus: leather Gemini: gauze, chiffon, voile Cancer: flannel Leo: lamé, brocade, velvet Virgo: cotton, canvas, chintz Libra: silk, satin Scorpio: snakeskin Sagittarius: spandex, lycra Capricorn: mohair, cashmere, hemp Aquarius: feathers, metallic fabrics Pisces: rayon, nylon, watermarked taffeta

Elements and fabric correspondences: Earth: leather, wool, cotton, felt Air: chiffon, voile, gauze Fire: satin, lace, velvet Water: silk, satin, taffeta Spirit: hemp, linen, felt

Trivia: Cashmere: The goat is considered a ‘clean’ animal in the Jewish community. In the past a goat was sacrificed to honor a special guest. In the bible the goat is seen as ‘those who do not need God’. They are stubborn and world wise and God keeps them away from his followers. It was Napoleon’s second wife who made cashmere popular with the aristocratic community. According to lore, Napoleon had brought her seventeen scarves made from cashmere and she loved them. It became a must-have for the wealthy.

Cotton: Burning cotton was thought to cause rain. Planted or scattered in the yard it keeps ghosts away. In the black community of Georgia it was said that a newlywed couple that slept on a cotton mattress during their wedding night, would always have money. See: Linen

Felt: the Mongolians tied felt amulets to their horses before going to battle, they believed felt brought good luck and protection from evil spirits. Mattresses with felt protected against scorpions and snakes. Brides used to be seated on a seat of white felt during the wedding ceremony. The yurts of the Mongols are also made from felt. The whiter (newer) the felt, the wealthier the person who lives in it. They also made fetishes out of felt which they hung in their yurts. Foxes over children’s beds for peaceful nights, horses over the hearth as a totem of the sky and a man shaped fetish at the door to represent the man of the yurt or the guardian spirit. This is still in use today. The Turkmen nomads sacrificed their animals on felt. The Romans used felt in their armor and shields to protect the men wearing them. See: Wool

Flannel: Originally Turkish red flannel was the best quality flannel that could be bought. Mojo bags are almost always made from red flannel. This goes back to the time of the slave traders. Flannel was a sturdy and cheap fabric that was given to the slaves to be made into underwear. The slaves turned the scraps into mojo bags. In the 1880’s it was thought that flannel underwear protected against diarrhea and dysentery.

Flax: the Egyptians thought that flax was a gift of the Gods. Linens woven from flax are found in ancient Egyptian tombs. The Teutonic Goddess Hulda looks over spinning and specifically the cultivating of flax. It is said that She taught how to spin flax into fabric. In Estonia, a spirit known as the Flax Mother guards the flax and is said to live in a linen press. See: Linen

Hemp: sails used to be made from hemp fibers, they were the only thing that could withstand the ocean winds. The deceased used to be buried in hemp. Hemp was sacred to the Goddess Bast. A sacred incense of cannabis flowers and cinnamon was burned every morning in honor of the Goddess Bast or Isis. Korean men wore paji ma, hemp pants that they thought brought virility and power. See: Linen

Gauze: Dream symbolism says that being dressed in gauze means that you are ‘uncertain in your wealth’. Gauze used to be made from silk, thus you have a luxurious, wealthy fabric, that is full of holes. This would explain the dream symbolism. Nowadays gauze can be made from any material. Cotton gauze is the gauze used for dressing wounds and other medical purposes.

Lamé: In the past entire clothing pieces were constructed using gold of silver yarn. In these cases the metal was wrapped around yarns of silk or cotton. It was said that these fabrics were ‘befitting a princess’. Nowadays lamé is made by gold, silver or even copper which has been wrapped around aluminum or stainless steel threads.

Linen: the ancient Egyptians used linen as a currency. Egyptian mummies were wrapped in linen. During the wrapping of the deceased, the priest would stop to say prayers and write on the linen. In Ireland linen is thought to absorb energy. Therefore strips of cloth were considered appropriate offerings. The scraps were infused with a disease of a prayer and then tied to a tree. Linen is mentioned over a hundred times in the bible. It is seen as a fabric of earthly power and success, worn by important people with influence and wealth. ‘Fine linen’ is often mentioned when talking about pure and righteous women. The temples of God were clothed in fine linens as should the people who come to them to worship.

Satin: The more expensive satins are made from silk, the others from nylon or polyester. In the Middle Ages satin was always made from silk and therefore only worn by the wealthy.

Silk: It’s been said that silk is a ‘natural magical insulator’, meaning that it will keep magical energies contained within itself and protects its contents from influences of the outside world.

Velvet: In paintings the use of velvet symbolizes leadership and royalty. Queens and leaders such as Napoleon are often depicted wearing velvet or having velvet draped over various furniture.

Voile: The name means ‘veil’ in French.

Wool: In the bible wool is thought of as pure, clean and free of sin. For this reason it was not allowed to mix wool with linen, for it would not be pure anymore. God’s children are seen as sheep and Jesus Christ is sometimes portrayed as the ‘Lamb of God.’ See: Felt

Materials: Burlap: jute plant, sisal fibers Calico: unbleached cotton Canvas: cotton, linen, hemp (ancient times) Cashmere: goat wool Chiffon: cotton, silk, synthetic fibers Chintz: glazed and printed calico Cotton: cotton plant Denim: cotton Felt: sheep wool Flannel: wool (ancient times), cotton, synthetic fibers Flax: flax plant Gauze: silk (ancient times), cotton, synthetic fibers, metal Hemp: cannabis plant Lace:  silk, linen, gold/silver threads, cotton (modern) Lamé: metallic yarns Leather: animal skins Leather (fake): a textile base, often cotton, with a synthetic layer, often PVC Linen: flax, textiles in a linen-weave texture, even when made of cotton, hemp and other non-flax fibers are also loosely referred to as “linen”. Mohair: Angora goat hair Muslin: cotton Nylon: synthetic polymers Organza: silk, nylon (modern), polyester (modern) Rayon: semi-synthetic cellulose fiber Satin: silk, nylon, polyester. Satin is a type of weave with a glossy front and a dull back. Silk: cocoons of silkworms (moth larvae), this is a protein fiber, similar to wool or human hair. Suede: animal skins, mostly lamb Suede (fake): mostly cotton or silk Taffeta: silk or synthetic fibers Tulle: polyester, nylon Velvet: velvet can be made from many kinds of fibers Velour: cotton, cotton blends, polyester Velour de panne: polyester blend Voile: cotton or cotton blends with polyester or linen Wool: sheep wool

[renthony]

In which Ren goes on a textile rant.

Going to get in a fight with whoever does the listings for Jo-Ann Fabrics, because why the HELL is a listing for "natural linen" actually for a fabric that contains 50% RAYON. I had to scroll halfway down the goddamn page to find a 100% linen, despite that being what I searched for in the first place.

(I know it's because linen-weave fabrics get called linen even when they're not 100% flax, but I think that's a ridiculous practice that we should stop fuckin' doing. I am looking for PROPER FUCKING LINEN, not fake shit!! God damn it!!!!!)

Fucking rayon. I hate rayon. Everyone's convinced it's "natural" and it's fucking not (it's actually classified as "semi-synthetic"), and in 2014 it made up 56.9% of fibers found in deep-ocean environments. Improvements have been made since then, but I still fucking hate rayon based solely on the fact that marketing has deceived everyone into thinking it's more environmentally-friendly than it is.

It's like...how everyone thinks, oh, bamboo fabric is made of natural materials, so it must be all good! But then they ignore how much fucking processing you have to do to bamboo, and how much water it takes.

That's not even getting into cotton manufacturing. The rates of water consumption and pesticide use in cotton farming are fucking obscene, and cotton is right up there with rayon in how much of it winds up in the ocean. Cotton doesn't degrade quickly at all, and while I wouldn't call it as destructive as some all-synthetic fabric, I still don't like how much people think "oh, it's natural, so it must not have a big environmental impact."

The marketing around "natural fibers" is so fucking deceptive in general. Just because the fiber is natural doesn't mean the manufacturing is inherently sustainable. I'd hate rayon a lot less if there wasn't so much "ohhh, but it's NATURAL! Please ignore how much chemical processing we have to do to the fibers!"

I'm not inherently opposed to polymers and synthetic materials. It is fully possible to produce sustainable polymers, and polymer science is making incredible breakthroughs every day. I genuinely hope that we can continue to push the field into new sustainable directions.

It really is the marketing of semi-synthetic and heavily-processed fibers as "natural fabrics" that pisses me off. At least things like spandex and nylon aren't trying to convince me that they're natural and oh-so-sustainable when I know goddamn full well that they're not.

[textiles-now24]

History of rayon production,process of making rayon,properties of rayon fabric ,uses of rayon?

Rayon, also known as viscose, has a fascinating history. Let’s explore how this versatile fiber came into existence: Invention and Early Development: Rayon’s story begins in the late 19th century, marking a pivotal moment in textile history. French scientist and industrialist Hilaire de Chardonnet invented the first artificial textile fiber, which he called artificial silk. Swiss chemist…

[professorpski]

That Not So Simple Knit Dress: Simplicity 5364 from 1972

We tend to thinks of knits as perfect for very simple garments we simply pull on. The T-shirt, T-shirt dress, leggings, etc. But when knits first became common in women's wear because of innovations in machines that could knit fabric, they were not shown as all that simple. The T-shirt dress showed up in the 1950s and came with the full assortment of accessories including hat and gloves. The synthetic knits which became so popular in the 1960s still had zippers down the backs of the dresses they were made from.

Similarly, this formal evening dress from the early 1970s required a knit fabric, see the "STRETCH" directions on the front that literally stretched out the font. It was not a great deal of stretch, in truth. 4 inches had to stretch to a bit over 5 inches, while we have super stretchy rayon/lycras today that practically double in width when pulled hard. But it was far more stretch than the "bonded knits" which were popular for A-line shapes and had no stretch at all (and not purpose as far as i can see). They especially recommended matte jersey (which would be Quiana in those days), cire jersey (which has a wet look and would have looked sooooo louche), and tricot (which we see today only in lingerie fabrics). But any jersey with stretch from cotton to rayon to polyester or nylon was approved.

With only a bit of stretch built into the fabric, the pattern, which was close fitting, has shaped front and back pieces and back straps. It shuts at the back neck with buttons and loops while a zipper shuts the back bodice and then the top of the long gathered skirt.

It gives you an idea of how formal an evening gown could still look in the 1970s even after the Youth Quake revolution in fashion which claimed there should be no rules of any kind of clothing. But people still liked to dress up, so they never gave up on formality entirely.

[mayakern]

Hello! Your skirts are really beautiful and I'm thinking about buying one, but I'm curious about how the fabric feels. Is it matte or shiny? Does it have a more cottony or rayon-y feel? I can be a bit fussy about how synthetic fibers feel (alas for all the pretty vintage dresses in spongy acrylic!), so I normally buy clothes in store, but your skirts are so pretty and look so exactly like the sort of thing I live in during the summer I wanted to check!

i am autistic with texture sensitivities and the skirts don’t personally bother me. they have more of a matte, smooth/soft feel. you can also order a fabric sample pack from the skirt section and we will send you a square of skirt fabric so you can feel the material!

[kritblogs]

Choosing the Right Fabric for Your Custom Clothes

Understanding What You Need

Custom clothing lets you showcase your unique style and achieve a perfect fit. Choosing the right fabric is crucial before you start designing. Choosing the best fabric depends on understanding its purpose. Consider these factors:

Weather Suitability

Warm Weather: Opt for light, airy fabrics like cotton or linen to keep cool.

Cold Weather: Choose wool or thicker knits for warmth and coziness.

Fabric Drape

Elegant Look: Light, soft fabrics like chiffon or rayon for dresses and blouses.

Neat Look: Smooth cotton or linen for shirts, pants, or jackets.

Durability and Care

Everyday Wear: Strong fabrics like denim for longevity.

Convenience: Synthetic fabrics that resist wrinkles and are easy to care for. Consider how much maintenance you’re willing to handle, like dry cleaning versus home washing.

Demystifying Fabric Types

Here’s a breakdown of fabric types:

Natural Fibers

Cotton: Soft and breathable.

Linen: Cool and strong, perfect for summer.

Wool: Warm and insulating, ideal for winter coats.

Silk: Luxurious with a beautiful drape, great for special occasions.

Artificial Fibers

Polyester: Wrinkle-resistant, durable, and affordable.

Nylon: Strong and water-resistant, used in activewear.

Acrylic: Wool-like but cheaper, less breathable.

Blended Fabrics

Cotton-Polyester: Combines breathability with wrinkle resistance.

Linen Blends: Improved drape and reduced wrinkling.

Beyond the Basics: Specialty Fabrics

Luxury Fabrics

Silk, Cashmere, Velvet: Ideal for special occasions with their luxurious feel and drape.

Performance Fabrics

Technological Innovations: Moisture-wicking, water, and wind-resistant fabrics for activewear and outdoor use.

Eco-Friendly Fabrics

Sustainable Choices: Organic cotton, hemp, or recycled polyester for environmentally conscious fashion.

Final Thoughts

Selecting the right fabric is key to creating beautiful and functional custom clothes. Understand your needs, explore different fabrics, and enjoy the creative process. Read more here

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📣𝐂𝐇𝐄𝐀𝐓𝐄𝐑 𝐆𝐀𝐑𝐁

AKA: garb, garb-adjacent, I have no time to sew

Pennsic 50 is nearing, and you are frantic trying to get everything together in time, including a wardrobe.

Don’t drive yourself nuts. Cheat.

War garb tends to be very forgiving, considering that groups other than the SCA attend, the weather is notoriously fickle, and you need to stretch what you pack to potentially over two weeks. We *all* cheat. We all include clothing that is not period, but doesn’t scream mundane.

• stick to woven fabrics.

• for your own comfort and sanity, stick to natural fibers. Linen, linen-cotton, thin wool perform best. Cotton works pretty well. Silk, it first has to be real silk, and the type of weight and weave will make a difference how it performs. Ramie, viscose, and rayon will soak up sweat and humidity like a sponge and bring it along with you for the day. Synthetics will look wrong, trap sweat against your body, retain odors; they might be cheap but they really aren’t worth it. Leather looks cool, but it is heavy; save it for accessories and, y’know, armor. Performance fabrics: reserved for your jog around the lake at 6am.

• Stick to simple shapes. Shift dresses, caftans, draw-string waist pants, solid peasant blouses, full skirts all can be tucked in with your garb. Choose colors that compliment your garb for optimal flexibility.

• Look for garments without obvious closures (buttons, zippers), visible pockets, ruffles, modern trim. Lace is difficult, as are prints. Avoid highlighter/neon colors. Sequins and glitter should be avoided; although there were period versions of such bling, modern decoration is made of plastic and looks it. Glass shisha mirrors may be an option if you must sparkle.

• Ethnic clothing, such as tribal dance wear, is usually accepted. You can usually get away with modern ethnic garments, such as kimono and sarees at larger Wars like Pennsic, but wear a real natural fiber one (thrift one?). Real embroidery is good; printed decoration is not.

• Don’t wear Halloween costumes. It will look like a Halloween costume. Most are horrible quality.

• Basic leather belts, plain linen or cotton hankies, nice basic veils, a good straw hat, a period bag, a simple basket, plain shoes/boots/sandals all uplift your outfit.

Some examples of cheater garb below:

Shop: amzn.to/3CvVHp3 I’d order a size up for a roomier fit.

As a shift, or bath house babe!darker colors can be worn over a longer dress.

Shop amzn.to/3CcLQ7f

Wear over or under a skirt. Comes in a few colors, mix & match. Side seam pockets are okay. Buy: amzn.to/3NcViO6

Change out the button for something more period, or a Norse brooch. Wear over skirts or a long dress. amzn.to/3NcMGqL

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