#Care sheet

[crispy-buddies-bakery]

Strawberry Care Sheet

[thenarrativefoil]

holy daphnia care sheet

[dramatic-shitpost-poet]

Burmese Python

Enclosure:

Babies can be okay in a 10 gallon (juveniles are good in 50 gallon), but adults will need 8 x 4 ft minimum and bigger is always better

The enclosure should have roughly the floor space equal to four to six times the area of the snake itself when it’s in a flat coil.

You need to look for enclosures specifically designed for larger snakes and you may need to have them custom made since adult females need 72 x 36 inches usually at full size

Aspen shavings, orchid bark, and newspapers are easy substrates to use and clean up. The key is to keep things simple because they can get messy!

They need to have a large cave in their enclosure to feels secure, but having large branches or pieces of wood can also be enriching to them 

Ideal temperature is to be between 85-90 F, but at night it can drop to 80 F and a basking area around 90 F should be good too. Heat can be provided by mats/pads, lamps, and lights. UV is not required, but is beneficial as well and having a day and night cycle is also very beneficial.

Make sure it is secure because all snake are escapes artists

They will need a water dish large enough for them to soak in and fresh water should be provided daily. Misting once daily also helps with shedding, but you can do 2-3 times a day if in a shed cycle (50-60% humidity)

Do not house 2 females or 2 males together and they do great on their own. You can house a male and a female together, but they may breed and you will need enough space accordingly

Diet/feeding habits:

Hatchlings to 4 feet long need to eat every 3-4 days

4 feet to maturity (10 ft females, 8 ft males) they need to eat every 5-7 days

From 3 years on they need to be fed once every 10 days, but it may need to be adjusted depending on weight and appearance

They start off eating appropriate sized mouse, then continue to move up to rats and eventually rabbits, but they just need to be a good size for them

They will also eat chicken, but this should not be fed often as it puts weight on them quickly and should only be used for ones that are underweight/picky

You may have to use a buffer like a wooden board and snake hooks/tongs when removing uneaten food or when feeding the snake just to be on the safe side

Feed often enough to maintain optimum body condition; you should not be able to see the snake's ribs. It's essential to be careful not to overfeed them, or you will end up with an obese snake. Signs your snake may be overweight include noticeable scale separation, sunken spine, or "fat wrinkles." 

Age identification:

Lifespan is usually a 15-20 years, but some almost live to 30 years

Physical traits:

Hatchlings are typically around 20 inches long and weight 4 ounces, but adults can weigh over 200 pounds

Females usually get bigger than the males and are around 13-18 feet long at adult size, but some can get more than 20 feet long and even to 40 feet

Males usually get to be 8-14 feet long, but have been known to reach 17 feet sometimes

There are many morphs including: Albino, patternless/green, labyrinth, granite

There is a dwarf variety, but they are not as commonly known or sold. The dwarf morph usually gets around 5-7 feet total in adult size

Juvenile Burmese Pythons will shed quite often as they grow quickly. This is completely natural and does not harm the snake in any way. Older snakes will shed less frequently but will continue to do so for the duration of their life.

They lay about 20-80 eggs, but I will not be getting into breeding for them here so your own research is needed if you desire to breed burmese pythons

Personality:

Very food driven as well, but not as much as reticulated pythons

They are big, gentle, and sometimes pretty dumb giants and are very docile most times

Some are a bit more nippy, but they usually calm down. If you need them being docile you need to be looking for that with initial choosing for the python though

They are exceptional swimmers and can stay submerged for up to half an hour without surfacing for air. 

They are mainly a ground dwelling snake but juveniles will spend much of their time in the trees. 

Females can get protective over eggs and nippy during breeding season

If your snake goes on an eating strike, it is not necessarily an illness; some snakes do not eat during seasonal changes, before shedding, or if their cage is not warm enough.

Health concerns: 

Respiratory issues can occur from their enclosure being too humid or cold; wheezing and secreting a foamy substance from the mouth are signs of this. Blisters and scale rot are also caused by too much humidity

Inclusion body disease (IBD) which is not harmful to humans, but it is to snakes and most common carriers are in the boa constrictor family. IBD is marked with symptoms of tremors, seizures, vision loss, loss of tongue control, and the inability to right itself when turned upside down (a condition called “stargazing syndrome”).

Mites and other parasites can also affect pythons and can sometimes carry IBD as well, so always quarantine your snakes before introducing them in the same room or enclosure to ensure they’re healthy

Burmese pythons are the main species affected by Burmese Disease (BD), but it has also been seen in Borneo short-tailed pythons, African rock, and blood pythons. BD is a slow, progressive disease characterized by recurring bouts of respiratory infections like pneumonia and involvement of opportunistic bacteria

After your snake has finished shedding, do a quick examination to ensure there is no stuck shed. Common areas for stuck shed include around the eyes and the tail. Stuck shed can be easily removed by giving your snake a warm bath. During the bath the stuck shed can be easily rubbed away.

Handlings:

Handling the hatchlings from a young age gets them to calm down quickly

Make sure to have another person around while handling because they do not know their own strength sometimes and don’t let them wrap around neck and chest areas.

If you do not at least regularly handle them they will only associate you with food and may strike whenever you open their cage, so do handlings to prevent this

Don’t handle it a few hours before and 2 days after feeding

Avoid touching the top of its head. Unless it knows and trusts you, touching the top of the head will cause it to jerk away from the touch. The fast movement of the snake tends to scare a lot of new snake owners. This is called being "head shy." A lot of pythons will get over it with gentle handling.

[delta-lethonomia]

There's a reddit thread on the BG3 sub where the user u/InklingRain posted a spreadsheet they made with all the companion approvals. Super useful in general both for playing the game and for fic, so I thought I'd post it on tumblr and play around a little!

There's a top row with the average approval by companion, but I didn't find that very useful, so I changed it to the count of approvals (i.e. count of approvals & disapproval total, how often a companion had a reaction to something). We all know Astarion gives a lot of disapprovals here and there, but they're only -1 at a time, so no big deal, right?

No. Minsc has the least at only 45 reactions, Halsin at 95, Minthara at 145, and of the main companions, Gale is pretty average at 198, Lae'zel at 224, and Shadowheart, rather opinionated at 258...

but that's nothing compared to Astarion's 406. That's almost 150 more than the next person!!! That's more than Minthara and Shadowheart combined! Babygirl really woke up one day and decided to get in a snit over everything that happens 😂

(Longer post about count of positive and negative opinions, sum of approvals and disapprovals, and some major outliers below. Picture with values at the very end.)

But that's a bit disingenuous. If we look at the ratio of positive to negative opinions (not taking value into account), Astarion's pretty average at 30% (negative count over sum count, so let's call that negativity). This is similar to Gale (31%), Karlach (30%), and Lae'zel (32%). In theory, getting Astarion's approval or disapproval is just as easy as any of theirs, with a 20% bias towards positive approvals. Later companions are weighted heavily towards the lower end of the spectrum, with Jaheira at 13% negativity and Minsc at 9%. As you only get them very late, it's pretty clear that the game gives you a lot of opportunities to get their approvals and thus open up more of their quests and dialogue.

However. We have an outlier. Wyll Ravenguard, clocking in at an indecent 38% negativity! Which really just goes to show, while Astarion is the most opinionated, Wyll has the most disapprovals, making him the judgiest companion of all 🤣

However, this really wouldn't be a good post if we didn't look at the value of approvals. Karlach, for instance, has the strongest disapproval value of -100 (given if you sleep with her and then call it a mistake). Ouch. This is clearly at outlier and doesn't say much about Karlach's changeability of opinion in general. If we look at the sum of positive and negative opinions, this is a very heavy swing, making up 100 points of her total 191 disapproval points possible to her 281 approvals total. Another outlier is Minsc, who currently possesses a 43% disapproval percentage (a heavy -50 disapproval given if you sacrifice him to Sarevok. Jaheira, by contrast, apparently doesn't give a damn, or her value might simply not be included in the dateset.)

Removing outliers is really a matter of opinion here, so I'll only remove the most extreme swings, such as the above mentioned disapprovals.

The otherwise strongest swings are Astarion (-15 for telling him it was a mistake preventing him from drinking Araj's blood, or saying you only wanted to sleep with him, not deal with his trauma) and Wyll (+20 for siding with Karlach during his confrontation with her, which really shows he didn't really want to kill her and is very grateful you stopped him). Halsin gives +40 for reuniting Oliver with Thaniel, which...lifting the shadow curse is sort of his life's mission, and a bit of a unique case, so while it makes sense, I think it's such a unique event that can't be topped by anything else and will remove it. Jaheira give +20 for extending the Emperor's protection to Minsc, and, for funsies, Minthara's heaviest disapproval is -5 for donating to Lolth at the Stormshore Tabernacle. (lol)

I only chose to remove the aforementioned Karlach, Minsc, and Halsin values, as they're all very large swings and rather character-defining or personal to the individuals mentioned, so I don't think it says much about them in a more general day-to-day sense.

Now, using the sums of our negative and positive values, Gale is our most Negative Nancy, clocking in at 37%, which goes to show that while he's pretty average for the amount of things he cares about, when he disapproves, it's a strong one. Next up is Astarion at 35%, and Wyll at 34%. Lowest are Jaheira and Minsc at 7% and 4% respectively, which makes an intuitive sort of sense: Jaheira is old and just over being upset by the players poor choices, and Minsc is an insanely positive person overall. The next most positive companion is Halsin at 13%, which also matches with his vibe pretty well, followed by Minthara at 17%, Karlach at 24%, Lae'zel at 26%, and Shadowheart at 28%.

Tl;dr: Astarion has many, many opinions, but Wyll is the most judgemental (most disapprovals compared to approvals possible). However, when it comes to the strength of those disapprovals, Gale reigns supreme, followed by Astarion.

If don't break Karlach's heart, help Halsin achieve his life's ambition, or sacrifice Minsc, then they're pretty positive overall. Later companions are heavily weighted to approve of your actions, and Minthara is comparatively judgemental, but overall far more easy to gain approval than disapproval from.

If you take the average of all these values and include the later companions to look at as a personality "baseline" of how judgy and how strong those disapprovals may be, then...the Act 1 companions are all dramatic af, which really should come to no ones' surprise, while Karlach is the most willing to give the benefit of the doubt imo.

[scalestailspets]

Bearded Dragon Care

General Info

Bearded dragons are diurnal, active during the day, lizards of the Agama family. These lizards are native to the arid regions of central and eastern Australia. Bearded dogs get their name from the small pouch on their throat that can turn black and expand, like a beard. These wonderful lizards were introduced to the American pet market in the mid-1990s and have grown in popularity ever since. Bearded dragons are known for their general aggressiveness, general stubbornness, curiosity, and personality. They are also known to get to know their owners and have strong relationships. Due to their popularity, all bearded dragons sold outside of Australia are now bred in captivity.

Housing

Bearded dragons can grow up to 24 inches in length and will need shelter to match their size. A young bearded dragon can live comfortably in a 36" by 18" enclosure. Adults will need a cover at least 48" x 24". As with all reptiles, bigger is better when it comes to camouflage.

Although bearded dragons are terrestrial or terrestrial species, they are excellent climbers and scavengers. Adding a sturdy and safe climbing frame, such as natural wood, is highly recommended.

There are many seed options for bearded dragons. These options can range from fabric to porcelain tiles to a mixture of organic soil and sand. The choice to use profanity continues to be a hotly debated issue. Crushed walnut shells are one of the nuts we advise against, some people swear by it but for us it's not worth the risk.

Heating,Lighting, & Humidity

In the habitat of the bearded dragon, there is an abundance of sunlight and warmth. Bearded dragons can often be found basking in the sun.

Having a strong UVB light like Reptisun 10.0 is essential for bearded dragons. Strong UVB light will help your dragon absorb calcium, regulate hormones, regulate metabolism, and improve mood.

Many lizards, including bearded dragons, have what are called parietal eyes. This eye is located on the top of their head and is part of the pineal system. These eyes are photosensitive and help the bearded dragon regulate its circadian rhythms with hormones such as melatonin. With many bright lights, the dragons were colored like heat. The enclosure requires a temperature gradient from 75-80°F on the cooler side to 95-100°F. The temperature should be around 105-110°F.

Being from a natural environment of semiarid lands bearded dragons should not have much humidity in their enclosures. The enclosure should register a humidity of only 20-30%.

Feeding

Bearded dragons are omnivores, meaning they eat both plants and animals. The diet ratios for Bearded dragons will change as they grow.

A hatchling bearded dragon needs roughly 80% animal protein and 20% plant matter.

Juveniles will need roughly 50% animal protein and 50% plant matter.

Adults will need roughly 20% animal protein and 80% plant matter.

Dubia crickets and cockroaches are good snacks. You usually want to eat as much food as your dragon can eat in 5-10 minutes. You should have a shallow water bowl with fresh water for your bearded dragon. Contrary to popular belief, keeping a bowl of shallow water in your garden will not increase humidity and cause problems.

Health

Dogs with beards are usually a tough breed. There are a few common issues that are seen, but these are usually caused by improper care and breeding. Obesity is one of the most common problems. Reptiles have generally evolved to not need food every day. Skipping feeding days is always very beneficial for your bearded dragon.

Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD) is unfortunately another common problem seen in bearded dragons. The cause of metabolic bone disease is a lack of calcium and vitamin D3 which is associated with a lack of UVB light. A lack of calcium in a dragon's system causes their bodies to remove calcium from their bones, which creates weak and brittle bones and often leads to physical deformities. These deformities can cause the body to experience pain and discomfort because it cannot move as it should.

If you think your pet is sick or has any health problems, it is always best to seek veterinary care from a professional veterinarian so that ability to diagnose and treat.

Summary

Bearded dragons are wonderful animals! Their easy care, overall strength, untrained behavior, and many qualities make them easily among the most popular pets. With proper care, your bearded dragon can provide many years of enjoyment and companionship.

As with always, Scales & Tails Exotic Pets is here for you for all of your online reptile accessory and supply needs. If you have any questions at all please use the "Contact Us" form on our website and we will get back to you as soon as possible!

Read more:- https://www.scalesandtailspets.com

Resource:- https://www.scalesandtailspets.com/blogs/news/bearded-dragon-care 

[aq2003]

ten is aroace for this one sorry society

[l3irdl3rain]

She stood on my keyboard the whole time I tried to write something up on the computer and now that I’m finally ready to crawl into bed she has made herself so very cozy

[artkaninchenbau]

Wanted to make an Egghead-themed sticker sheet for a looong time, and once I got to it I noticed had enough room for a few more extras after the Strawhats were done... So here's some Cross Guild chibs for you

[crispy-buddies-bakery]

Gingerbrave Care Sheet

[feroluce]

Love how Hoyo is just as much on Boothill's dick as the rest of us. The Wardance crowd really is just the fandom fjkdlsajlksl

[dramatic-shitpost-poet]

Bumblebee millipede

Enclosure:

Their enclosure should not have a heat mat, they need a temperature of 72-82 degrees F (room temp)

Day and night cycle needed

Enrichment goes along with the substrate and can be dead leaves, decaying wood, branches, live leaves, fruits and veggies, driftwood, 

Substrate needs to be a few inches (2-4) and needs to have a base component and a food component

Base component: coconut fiber is best and this layer makes up most of the substrate volume. It is used for burrowing

Food component: the top layer the millipede will eat from and needs to be replaced more often. Dead leaves, decaying hardwood, organic compost material or compost soil can all be used

their enclosure should be misted daily, so they can drink the water droplets

They need “medium humidity” (60-80%) which means misting their enclosure daily. Substrate always needs to be moist, not damp with dechlorinated water

They can be housed together or alone, but they might breed if housed together

Floor space is more important than height and suggested size is 3x the body width and 2x the body size in depth

Good ventilation must be present

Deep cleanings are not needed, but daily spot cleaning is

Diet/Feeding habits:

They typically eat decaying leaf matter and can survive on the food component layer of substrate

It is beneficial to provide supplemental foods such as dry dog or cat food pellets, powdered calcium or powdered baby formula (powder should be once every month max)

Vegetables are also beneficial: cucumber, chicory, carrots, celery, tomatoes, etc.

Fruits are beneficial too: watermelon, apples, pears, cantaloupe, oranges, and pumpkin

Refresh the food whenever it is gone or every 3 days

Age identification:

Lifespan is an average of 7 years

They reach maturity in about a year or 2

Physical Traits:

Adult size is about 2-4 inches long

They have black and yellow stripes with redish legs (4 per body segment)

Males have smaller legs if you look at the 7th section from their head

They can musk you with a toxic fluid and don’t ingest any of it because you won’t have a good time and it may burn your skin

They will curl up if threatened first

They will often have mites that clean them, it is not anything to worry about

Slow moving

They do molt 

Personality:

Docile

Low maintenance 

They love to burrow

Hardy 

They will musk you with a toxic fluid as a defensive mechanism

Never bites and would rather curl up

They are attracted to light

They bury themselves before and during their molts

Health concerns:

Don’t let them fall as it will cause fatal injury

If you use a heat mat it might burn them and cook them

If you handle them during a molt you could damage them as their new shell/skin is fresh and vulnerable 

Never use chemicals or soaps around them as it will kill them

Handling:

Wash hands before and after always

Gloves might be suggested

They do not like to be handled, so keep it to a minimum

Never handle during a molt 

Never handle more than 20 minutes every week

[bismutharts]

i had great fun with the formatting for this one. the bar at the bottom is actually the exact same colour and texture as the bar near the top in the light mode of ao3. or at least it was until my mediocre printer had its way with it.

the fonts are also the same as what's used on ao3

did y'all know that on firefox you can screenshot specific elements of the html of a webpage? very handy, to have it immediately cropped to what you need (used for the navigation ui, i couldn't easily replicate that)

this is part of my project to make a zine a day in april

[foreverbaby25]

S.E.L.F.C.A.R.E

[hoofpeet]

Adult Plum + Some design notes :] She either works at a train station with her cousin Pumpkin or does professional wrestling

[annie-of-the-arts]

[begin id: A drawing reference/fullbody of Doctor Rat, specifically the character (?) he plays in Content SMP. Next to him are design notes, and a color palette of his colors. The design notes read: "-dress looks to be made of low quality, party city material. but, it's actually well taken care of, and clearly has been stiched over several times. -tons of pockets. tons. -oh defintely changes his heels up every now and then. i think he could gouge a man's eyes out with stilhettos. -ngl i think he looks like geronimo stilton." As for the design itself, he is a tall half-rat man with a pink rat tail, and grey fur that covers where regular human body hair would go. He has curly purple hair, about shoulder length, and a grey mask with a blotch of lighter grey near the eyes. He's wearing a maid dress; consisting of a black dress with poofy sleeves, an apron, gloves, and wedged ankle mary janes. The apron and gloves are covered in dark but faded stains, and his dress is covered in scratch marks to indicate consistent and constant repair of it. As for the pose, he's standing straight, feet together. His left hand on his hip, the right standing idly by in a calmed fist. He's smirking. End id]

to people who loved my silly rat sketches. thank you very much. im reminding you all yet again that im a big nerd for character design forever and ever. thank you very much

[reblogs >>> likes | don't like without reblogging!! if you like and don't reblog i will curse your bloodline.]

[luhman16]

i boiled my forearm while making this /srs