Making a mamianqun (馬面裙; lit. horse face skirt). Mamianqun can be traced back to the Song Dynasty and was in vogue from the Ming and Qing Dynasties until the Republican era. The skirt consists of two overlapping sections of fabric sewn together, each with a pleated section and skirt panels on either side. The skirt panels are overlapped to create the front and back of the skirt. This design allowed greater freedom of movement.
A note: Mamianqun are women's wear, but with the hanfu revival movement, men nowadays wear it too.
I received the following question from @aarghc about diexie dai. As I'm not familiar with belt construction, perhaps some other readers might be able to provide insights?:
I'm trying to understand the structure of 蹀躞带 dié xiè dai belts. There are many pictures where the hanging straps are clearly one layer, but here (https://fuckyeahchinesefashion.tumblr.com/post/664758617722994688/%E8%B9%80%E8%BA%9E%E5%B8%A6-di%C3%A9-xi%C3%A8-dai-by-cromartie) and other places where you see them hanging pouches from the belt, the hanging straps are 2 layered. From a modern construction perspective it would make sense for there to be snaps on the hanging straps to attach to the pouches but if not, then it looks like it's just friction holding the pouches to the belts? That's now how I'd like to secure my wallet. 8-) Might you or your readers have any insights on Chinese utility belt construction? 8-)
I've been wanting to make a one for so long. Then I saw this fabric in an outlet that sells faulty fabrics discarded from factories, where you can find some unusual stuff that you can't find in regular shops.
This fabric is supposed to have this print all over, but got only printed at the bottom. If you squint you can see faded print marks on the middle section too. The moment I saw this I immediately thought of a mamianqun because a lot of mamianqun come with bottom print 😍.
However do not copy me in this, because I only thought of the pattern and not the fact that the fabric is too bulky and heavy especially for dress with humongous volume. It does not make for for the nicest, crispiest pleats as you can see in the pictures below. Also this is gonna be such a pain to wash and dry.
But I will give myself a pat on the back because this is my first attempt, and for someone who has never taken a formal sewing class nor is able to properly follow any instructional guide because I'm scatterbrained like that, I think I did a pretty swell job! ☺
Even though it took me a whole damn day and numerous frustrating unpicking and redoing over and over again, lol.
Though I am not able to provide you a guide (because like I said, I myself am incapable of following any), I used the following four sources to get an idea about what I am trying to do to begin with. I studied these four, then attempted it myself and figured it out gradually as I went, through trial and error.
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1. This helped me understand the overall geometry of the garment.
2. This gave me clear visual aid about what the end product should look like.
3. This doll-size mamianqun video was simple and gave a very good and non-complex demo of the process.
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4. This helped me with understanding how to attach the waistband.
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The modifications I added myself are:
Making the waistband a button-up. As the skirt was already so heavy, I thought a long strip of a tie would make it even more difficult to handle. But at the same time it is not easy to secure something like this so it wouldn't accidentally fall apart. So I used two sturdy buttons from the front, and another button in the back, from inside (you can't see it)
Adding pockets! In the 3rd source I posted above, at the 0:41 mark you see that there's this one huge pleat that gets folded inwards, right?
And I thought, two simple vertical and horizontal stitches from inside can turn them to pockets, so why not!
The final product! Yayyy!
(Don't look at the imperfections, they are shy ok!)
Fill for G1 - Black Cloaked Envoy on my Guardian Bingo Card!
The base pattern is taken from this daxiushan (大袖衫) pattern. To make this daxiushan (Heipaoshi's Version), I shortened the sleeves a bit, added extra length to the body, added a hood, and added the weird gauzy bits on the back. I also added some cording on the shoulders and the sides of the hood, following the design from the show as closely as I could. You'll also notice a couple decorative bands of black ribbon on the chest and at the waist, as well as a square of skightly different black fabric on the back — these are also embellishments added to follow the model in the drama.
Fabric: raw silk noil, cotton lining in the hood, a silk habotai square, silk gauze, silk ribbons, cotton cording. Entirely handsewn using waxed black linen thread.
Finally posted the first part of making Zhou Zishu cosplay on YouTube. This video is showing how I made the under garments and tunic of this commission. The next video will be about the over coat. It is really hard to flim making hanfu since some of the pieces can be really large. Also compared to the over coat the under layers can be a little boring to look at. I hope you guys enjoy this ^_^
Anyway as much as I do appreciate westerners taking an interest in Chinese culture it sometimes feels like my culture is just viewed as an art piece. Chinese people and culture are not artworks on display for western viewers’ pleasure. We are very real people, with very real culture, and as someone who has been overseas and removed from my culture for a good portion of my life it sometimes hurts when CN culture is just viewed as surface level “pretty” or heaven forbid “aesthetic,” when it’s so much more than that.
Out of curiosity, will Macaque wear hanfus? The artworks of him in amazing hanfus and looking absolutely gorgeous in them. Maybe some of his female friends (Like PIF and Rinrin) enjoy dressing him up?
Hopefully Wukong (and Mac's harem) don't walk into a wall.
Macaque: my king, what do you think of what I'm wearing *does a lil twirl*