#plus size historical costuming

[sewlastcentury]

Next up: tester slots open for this c. 1910 dressing jacket pattern!

Antique size 52 - the max bust is 60.5” (154cm) & max waist is 56.25” (143cm), but there's supposed to be a bunch of ease so the suggested wearer bust is 52” (132cm) and waist 42.5” (108cm).

...I know I made this blue and the OG garments seems brown, but I swear it reads as quite blue in person. The striping is blue and the flowers are white, so the brown ground fades away.

This was a really exciting recent find - a factory-made garment with the size label intact!

Pattern is available here:

[luxus-aeterna]

traveler spotted at the local belle époque café.

[latinalivinghistory]

My group at Old Car Festival! I'm Stubbs McGee in the middle.

Photo by Beth Turza, I think?

[intheorchards]

Aside from some emergency 'a 5 month old kitten helped me get dressed' repairs, the mid 17th century Emperor Belos court gown is finally done!

It only took months of mock-ups, hand sewing, tears, and a bit of blood 😅

[thelibraryghost]

A Young Person's Introduction to Late 19th-Century Western Fashion

hello fellow youths

General information Banner, Bernadette. "Exposing Victorian Influencers Who 'Facetuned' Their Photos. (Photo Manipulation was EVERYWHERE)." YouTube. July 17, 2021. English Heritage. "Fashion Through History: Episode 1 – Victorians." YouTube. February 9, 2023. Lady Rebecca Fashions. "100 Years of Fashion // The Fashionable Plus Size Silhouette from 1820-1910." YouTube. June 5, 2021. Victoria and Albert Museum. "100 Years of Fashionable Womenswear: 1830s – 1930s | V&A." YouTube. July 18, 2023. Zebrowska, Karolina. "Victorian Fashion Is Not What You Think It Is." YouTube. March 19, 2019.

Accessories Banner, Bernadette. ""Afro-Victorian": Bringing Historical Black Women's Dress into the 21st Century w Cheyney McKnight." YouTube. October 20, 2021. Cox, Abby. "A Fashion Historian Explains the History of the Handbag." YouTube. January 26, 2023. Rudolph, Nicole. "Dangerous Things in Victorian Pockets : Mens Pocket History." YouTube. March 2, 2024. Rudolph, Nicole. "The Controversial History of Color Season Analysis." YouTube. November 4, 2023. Zebrowska, Karolina. "Disgusting and Creepy Victorian Fashion Trends." YouTube. October 17, 2018.

Bustles and hoopskirts Donner, Morgan. "Weirdest Victorian Invention: The Bustle-Chair (and we made one)." YouTube. November 20, 2020. Lady Rebecca Fashions. "100 Years of Underwear // The Changing Plus Size Shape from Regency to Victorian to Edwardian." YouTube. May 1, 2021. Lady Rebecca Fashions. "All About Bustles! A Deep Dive into 1870s Fashions." YouTube. December 26, 2023. Rudolph, Nicole. "Why were Victorian Hips Controversial?" YouTube. September 12, 2021.

Cosmetics Birchwood, Vasi. "1800s Makeup Is Not What You Think." YouTube. July 21, 2023. English Heritage. "Queen Victoria Makeup Tutorial | History Inspired | Feat. Amber Butchart and Rebecca Butterworth." YouTube. May 20, 2019. Zebrowska, Karolina. "I Used Only Victorian Cosmetics For a Week." YouTube. July 26, 2023.

Fabrics Rudolph, Nicole. "Did Silk Spontaneously Combust in the Victorian Era?" YouTube. August 8, 2021. Rudolph, Nicole. "The History of Elastic." YouTube. July 4, 2021. Rudolph, Nicole. "The Truth About Arsenic in the Victorian Era." YouTube. January 24, 2021.

Gowns Bullat, Samantha. "Dress Historian Analyzes Victorian Mourning Clothing of the Mid-19th Century." YouTube. March 14, 2021. Lady Rebecca Fashions. "All About 1860's Fashion // What did Civil War-era fashion look like?" YouTube. November 12, 2022. Lady Rebecca Fashions. "How did fashion evolve from 1850-1859? // 1850's Fashion Deep Dive." YouTube. October 1, 2022. Rudolph, Nicole. "Victorian Fast Fashion? The Truth about the History of Disposable Clothing." YouTube. February 6, 2022. SnappyDragon. "Were the Pre-Raphaelites painting accurate medieval dress . . . or Victorian fairtytalecore?" YouTube. April 26, 2024. Zebrowska, Karolina. "19th Century Fashion - How To Tell Different Decades Apart?" YouTube. November 17, 2017.

Hair care and styling Banner, Bernadette. "Following a Victorian Home Made Hair Care Routine (1889)." YouTube. September 11, 2021. Lady Rebecca Fashions. "Getting Dressed in an 1888 Daisy Costume // Easy Bustle-Era Hair Tutorial." YouTube. November 13, 2020. Lady Rebecca Fashions. "Getting Dressed in the 1870s & 1874 Hairstyle Tutorial." YouTube. February 23, 2020. Rudolph, Nicole. "Why did Victorian Women Cut their Hair Short?" YouTube. December 18, 2022. Laundry and housekeeping English Heritage. "A Tour of the Laundry - The Victorian Way." YouTube. September 6, 2019. English Heritage. "How to Wash Up - The Victorian Way." YouTube. March 18, 2021. English Heritage. "Laying the Table at Christmas – The Victorian Way." YouTube. December 14, 2022. Walkley, Christina, and Vanda Foster. Crinolines and Crimping Irons: Victorian Clothes: How They Were Cleaned and Cared for. Peter Owen Limited: London, 1978.

Outerwear and working wear Birchwood, Vasi. "What Irish Working Women Wore in the Late 19th Century | I Made the Clothing of My Irish Ancestors." YouTube. June 23, 2023. English Heritage. "The Real Mrs Crocombe | Part Four: A Victorian Cook's Outfit." YouTube. July 5, 2018. Stowell, Lauren. "It's Hot: Let's Look At Some Bathing Suits." American Duchess. August 18, 2023. Rudolph, Nicole. "The History of Jeans, T-shirts, and Hoodies: Time Travel 101." YouTube. March 20, 2022. Zebrowska, Karolina. "The 1851 Women's Pants That Made The Victorians Go Crazy." YouTube. March 2, 2020.

Shoes Rudolph, Nicole. "100 years of Antique Boots." YouTube. February 10, 2024. Rudolph, Nicole. "How to Make Regency & Victorian Shoes: Beginner Shoemaking." YouTube. June 27, 2021. Rudolph, Nicole. "The Myth of Tiny Feet "Back Then"." YouTube. September 26, 2021.

Undergarments Banner, Bernadette. "I Wore a (Medical) Corset for 5 Years. How do Victorian Corsets Compare?" YouTube. November 7, 2020. Banner, Bernadette. "Making Some Frilly Victorian Underwear || 1890s Combinations." YouTube. February 9, 2019. Birchwood, Vasi. "What Victorians Wore to Bed." YouTube. May 5, 2023. Cox, Abby. "I made weird Victorian underwear (it's a knit onesie) & a pretty 1890s corset || historical sewing." YouTube. March 21, 2021. Lady Rebecca Fashions. "How 8 Different Historical Corsets Affect the Same Plus Size Body." YouTube. December 12, 2020. Rudolph, Nicole. "100 Years of Corset History: How 8 Corsets affect the same body." YouTube. November 29, 2020. Zebrowska, Karolina. "How Did Victorian Ladies Stay Warm in Winter? || THE EXPERIMENT." YouTube. January 22, 2021. Zebrowska, Karolina. "How Did Victorian Women Deal With Their Periods?" YouTube. October 17, 2019.

[dominomars]

Let’s address this issue…

Hey wassup I’m back, after deleting two posts because apparently my account is only used for “helluva boss shitting” I guess…

But I want to say something that really makes me a little concerned… about Viviziepop’s character designs.

Ok, lemme just say this… I don’t think Viviziepop is a good character designer AT ALL. Her main problem for me is not the colors, not the pencil thin bodies, but the fashion the character was born in, that’s right the FUCKING fashion.

Vivzie pop has a problem with designing characters that don’t look like exactly how she describes them, for example. Beelzebub, Beelzebub looks NOTHING like the actual Beelzebub, but I’m not talking about her today..

I’m going to be talking about Mimzy, a background character/non-speaking cameo that was shown in Hazbin Hotel.

(Just in case nobody knows her, here)

So, you’re probably saying, “Domino what are you saying? What are you tying to prove here?” So imma get straight to the point.

Listen, I don’t want to be a historical nerd here but this needs to be said, Mimzy is not an accurate flapper, instead, she is very stereotypical.

Don’t get me wrong, her design is very beautiful, and I’m so glad that we have a plus sized character from Viv. But her fashion is absolutely bullshit.

And it literally says in the wiki that she’s born in the 1920s, like I’m sorry but nothing about her will be real in the 1920s??? She’s literally a stereotype, she looks like those girls that have no fucking idea what they’re doing and buys a “flapper girl 1920s by spirit Halloween” costume, and then puts it on and calls it a day, like VIV PLEASE.

Alright, let’s get to the part where I critique her, as a vintage fan or 1920s fan, this is what I’m going to say nicely to her, and to educate other people who might be interested on what REAL flappers look like back in the day.

Flappers wouldn’t usually show much skin, the rule was that the shirt had to go down to where you can’t see the knees, shoulders were not shown that much and flappers didn’t wear as much accessories as Mimzy is wearing (necklace, feather hat, long gloves).

Flappers had very saggy loosely dresses, THAT was there fashion style, they liked to look like a potato bag, but what I usually see is that the stereotypical ones are very tight? Going along with Mimzy? Like girl, they did not wear those things they would not accept you if you wore that.

I also notice that Mimzy’s boobs are shown due to the tight inaccurate dress she is wearing, typically flappers didn’t show their boobs like that, since their dresses were very loose, nuh uh honey, flappers would use these bras to lower their breast size, kinda like a binder!

And tbh, I’ve never seen an irl flapper picture that had a feather hat thingy on their head, I can’t exactly explain if that’s accurate or not but hey! If ya know, tell me.

So my conclusion comes here…

Vivzie, if you want to make a character look like the period they were born/died in, please do it correctly, please look up references or talk to a vintage lover DO. SOMETHING. But please, don’t just look at one pic on google and say “oh uuuuhhh that’s so accurate! So imma uhhh add it on!” Because that’s not exactly how it works.

Hazbin Hotel fans, Mimzy is not an accurate description of what a flapper woman is, please check yourself before you go make a flapper Hazbin oc.

Still confused? Here are some amazing photos that I found!

Yes!!! ✅

Hell nah!! ❌

If guys have any questions, don’t be afraid to ask! And if you’re interested in a Mimzy redesign, I’ll be gladly to do it XD

This was just a critique to Vivzie! No hate to her of course! I really hope we see her get a redesign that she deserves.

(I do have a problem with Alastor’s design too LOL)

[winterhawkhood]

It is TIME to countdown!

Winterhawkhood-tober starts October 1st! To prepare for this incredible event where we will flood the world with winterhawkhood content, check out:

-The SEVEN bingo theme cards

-Prompt Request list (will be updated as requests come in)

-31 Days of Prompts Master List

The AO3 Collection

Friends, foes, family - this is going to be epic.

Bingo Cards:

Prompt Requests:

Prompt Requests from fellow fans! These are free to use and can be used as much and in as many ways as possible:

If you send in requests to this blog we will continue to update the list!

From blubblesandink 

-Mr. And Mrs. Smith AU/ mistaken identity

-soft spot for animals(willing to act heinous towards humans, but saves a puppy)

-Bro you really live like this? (Ie, break into their house and then make it better)

-Eiffel Tower

From Taxi-cab-to-slowtown:

-Jason/Clint/Bucky/plus one or more

From Claraxbarton:

-Rule 63: different gender(s)

------

31 Days Prompt Masterlist

Below are 31 Days worth of prompts. These are very general, with each day featuring one (1) dialogue prompt and three (3) other prompts. Feel free to respond to as many or as few as you like! There is some overlap from bingo cards to these prompts.

Day 1:

“You were right.”

-Different Robin

-On the run

-Friends with benefits

Day 2:

“You lied to me.”

-Royalty

-Friends to lovers

-Breakfast in bed

Day 3:

“How long have you known?”

-Healing

-Karaoke

-High School Reunion

Day 4:

“I wish I’d never met you.”

-Fake dating

-sex toys

-stakeout

Day 5:

“Wait, are you ticklish?”

-Wedding

-Avengers Team

-bad pick up lines

Day 6:

“Do you trust me?”

-Enemies to lovers

-backstory connection

-seeking/wanted ad

Day 7:

“Miss me, sweetheart?”

-cardigan

-kissing in the rain

-being in a crowd

Day 8:

“Please.”

-shaving

-stargazing

-mission

Day 9:

“You don’t have to say it”

-clothes sharing

-picnic

-beach

Day 10:

“I’m not a monster.”

-dating app

-baking

-identity porn/mistaken identity

Day 11:

“I told you not to touch that.”

-Sleeping

-canon divergent

-late

Day 12:

“You weren’t supposed to laugh.”

-sexting

-time travel

-co-workers

Day 13:

“Did you hear that?”

-autumn

-one bed

-matchmaking

Day 14:

“I deserve it.”

-coffee

-dancing

-secret dating

Day 15:

“I want to take care of you.”

-house/pet/baby sitting

-meet ugly

-hobby

Day 16:

“Is that my gun?”

-sex work

-modern/canon fusion

-love triangle

Day 17:

“I don’t remember.”

-size difference

-historical

-bets

Day 18:

“I remember.”

-Accidental

-military

-hand holding

Day 19:

“I’ve missed this.”

-Urban fantasy

-neighbors

-intimacy

Day 20:

“It’s three in the morning.”

-Sports

-horror

-vacation

Day 21:

“I can explain.”

-Writer

-shopping

-movie night

Day 22:

“I thought you were dead.”

-FUBAR

-arranged marriage

-hugs

Day 23:

“Then tell me the truth.”

-parent

-haunted 

-sacrifice

Day 24:

“How much of that did you hear?”

-Academic AU

-bad luck

-savior

Day 25:

“I hate this feeling?”

-Olympics

-injury

-conflict resolution

Day 26: 

“Don’t you dare walk away.”

-ballet

-allergies

-family

Day 27:

“Tell me a story.”

-Gotham

-costumes

-apologizing

Day 28:

“One last kiss.”

-pornography

-uniforms

-platonic

Day 29:

“Go fuck yourself.”

-blind date

-holiday/special occasion

-Western AU

Day 30:

“You left me.”

-surprise party

-bar

-drunk

Day 31:

“I can explain about last night.”

-pining

-lingerie

-one night stand

[kynmoonlight]

Bard's Broken Heart

I present: 1 motif of what I’m calling “Bard’s Broken Heart Lace”

OK, not quite, but still a cool design. Inspired by this post from Tumblr user @loki-is-my-kink-awakening https://www.tumblr.com/loki-is-my-kink-awakening/723753602720661504/oh-my-gods-are-these-the-hearts-hidden-on?source=share Who noticed that the trim on Jaskier’s shirt in Season 3 Netflix Witcher is little hearts! And a reply (sorry OP, I can’t find it now) noted that they’re very symbolically, hearts that are divided!

So anyway, I got crafting-obsessed and had to try to figure out how it was made and attempt to recreate it.

Which lead to research on historical lace-making and needlework.

[Disclaimers: this is all my best guesses as an amateur crafter, not a historical expert. I know my stitching is uneven, especially the pin-picots, which I just learned last week]

by the way, crafters or fic writers looking for historical fibercraft reference, check out Project Gutenberg’s (free!) The Encyclopedia of Needlework by Thérèse de Dillmont https://www.gutenberg.org/cache/epub/20776/pg20776-images.html SO much fascinating stuff!

First, based on the clearest photos I can find (ie not very) I’m guessing the actual trim was machine-made, because a) the stitching is really even and smooth and tiny, b) handmade lace would be extremely expensive, and c) TV/Movie costuming needs multiples of every garment, especially for something like a delicate chemise Jaskier wears running all around the continent for a whole season. 

My first guess and attempt was crochet, which wasn’t it, then thought it might be tatting or bobbin lace, which also weren’t right once I looked up images. 

I finally settled on whitework cut-work embroidery with some needle lace techniques for the edging. Which I think gave me a kind of close facsimile. This one is about 1-½ x the size of what he wears (because that’s the limit of my aging hand steadiness, crafting magnifiers, and the materials I had.)

This one motif took me probably two hours, including many screwups and tangles. Not including drafting, blocking and snapshots. With the right materials and one done for practice (as it was only my second project in whitework and first try at needle lace!) one heart would take around an hour. For someone whose lifelong job, all day every day, was embroidering lace trim, they’d probably manage a meter/yard or two of the actual size trim, which I’m guessing is how much is on that shirt.

So in-universe, this still wouldn’t be a cheap piece of clothing, with at least a full day of skilled craftswomen wages for just the lace, plus finely woven, printed fabric that (I think, historically, that would have been block printed by hand), and additional seamster time to make it up. Modern-day equivalent would probably be easily USD $1000 if not 2x that. Our boy is making good money as a now-famous bard! (I suppose in a universe with magic, it could have been magiked, or magically duplicated after an expert created a template, but I suspect that would cost as much as handcrafting anyhow)

If I get bored and the crafting bug hits me again, I might try to make a whole edging this, maybe on a handkerchief. 

Now, what do I do with one lace heart? I settled on starching it and attaching a safety pin back, so I guess if I ever go to a convention I can wear it as a pin so fellow Witchercrafters and Jaskier fans know how much of a nerd I really am.

I could write up direx with step by step pictures if anyone else really wants to try it.

[lastoneout]

You're allergic to the sun? How does that work?

Bro I wish I knew. All I really know is that every time I'm out in direct sunlight for more than 10 minutes I break out in unimaginably painful and itchy hives which take days to resolve and occasionally are bad enough that I need to go to urgent care and get a steroid injection/other medications to help. The last time it happened my knee swole up to the size of a softball and my hand was so painfully itchy and swollen I couldn't even close it.

I am working on seeing an allergy specialist to figure out what's up tho given a lot of my other issues and the fact that I have developed random allergies to things I used to be fine with I have a suspicion that I have some sort of autoimmune fuckery going on.

In the mean-time I take an umbrella with me everywhere but I genuinely hate carrying things in my hands while I walk and I also am not a fan of long sleeves so I think ponchos might be my best bet. I also know they're probably gonna be really warm but I watch a lot of historical costuming YouTube and the consensus seems to be that natural fibers are better at keeping you cool than modern synthetic stuff so I'm willing to give it a shot. Plus I know people used to wear them during the summer so maybe I can find lighter weight ones. Also it's winter and a poncho honestly sounds nice given my previously stated sensory aversion to long sleeves and winter coats.

(Also side note I will be sourcing said ponchos from actual indigenous/latin american sellers who are specifically sharing their culture for obvious reasons. It will be expensive but worth it.)

[sewlastcentury]

Aaand two more patterns from antique garments!

1890s silk faille evening skirt with a 34" / 86cm waist. On Etsy here!

c. 1870 cotton sateen day dress with a 50” (127cm) bust and 39” (99cm) waist! (It fits the 48”/122cm-bust mannequin very well.) On Etsy here!

I'm finishing up digitization on these, but tester slots are currently open! Once the patterns are finished, I'll put them up on Etsy with the others. <3

[youleavethetardisbrakeson]

There’s a clip somewhere on Twitter of a HOTD designer describing the process of creating Rhaenys’ armor. Within that clip, there’s a snippet of Eve saying that she’s been told “it looks amazing, but it’s really uncomfortable.” This further proves my own personal headcanon that Rhaenys rejects any form of corsetry. If you watch back to literally ANY of her scenes, and look closely, you can tell that there is no structural support to her torso (this is made even more apparent in her scene with Rhaenyra in episode two).

And I would hate for this to turn into a whole “fuck the patriarchy” thing that Rhaenys pulls (because apparently corsets represent the oppressiveness of male absolutism… they do not). I just think that Rhaenys forgoing a corset makes sense for her because she’s a feral dragon lady who wants to run around in knee high boots and tunics three and a half sizes too big for her.

It’s like when Maggie Smith was allowed to go without a corset during Downton Abbey because she promised to “sit very straight.”

Apologies for the lengthy message, I thought you would find it interesting considering the several costume analysis posts on your dash. <3

Ooh yes its from the BTS featurette "The House That Dragons Built." And yes the entire concept of women's undergarments on these GoT shows fascinates me to no end.

I should mention that I know there are dozens of forms of bodices, stays, jumps, corsets etc and most of them are actually quite comfortable and not at all the stereotype of the extreme waist cinching 'I can't breathe' ones found in a lot of movies. This is gonna be more of a 'study in shapes' than anything technical lol.

You can certainly see in this picture below that Rhaenys isn't wearing what we traditonally call a 'corset' (ie, something that creates a full-abdomen structured, cinched look with a V silhouette). Her bust is clearly defined/rounded and there's a distinct fold in her stomach. As someone who has experience wearing corsetry, that is NOT what a full 'corset' looks like, nor how you sit in them.

In contrast, look at Rhaenyra's dress from epiosde 8. It's much stiffer and structured in the bust (and yes women would traditonally wear corsetry while pregnant, it was perfectly normal and safe).

Eve Best mentioned in her interview with EW's West of Westeros podcast that she actually had a hand in designing her armor. They had initially designed a neck guard and she asked for it to be removed because she knew she was going to need to move and be flexible up on the dragon. I also assume it's a similar reason why they didn't give her any clunky full-armored sleeves. Her dresses in general also seem to follow this idea: they all have a very simple silhouette with no fussy sleeves or impractical style choices. So yes Rhaenys (and Eve) 100% loveeee comfort and to be able to run around being feral; I fully agree.

And I have wondered if Rhaenys is not wearing a 'corset', then what is she meant to be wearing? Based on my rudimentary knowledge of historical fashion, the medieval period is kinda weird in that we don't actually know what they wore as underwear? The GoT show styles are subsequently all over the place (there's so much reddit discourse on this, so I won't repeat it here). My best guess is that she may be wearing some kind of underbust short stays similar to the those of the Regency era. (And again, historical fashion people please forgive me.)

This kind of garment would provide bust support to create that more rounded look, plus allow mobility of the abdomen. You also traditonally wear a chemise under corsetry (you do NOT want hard boning flush against your skin, it chafes soooo much) so that fabric layer itself would also provide some structure to the bust.

If anyone has a better idea, please let me know!

[absolutedoorknob]

WAKE UP BESTIE THIS IS URGENT

So it’s late at night and I’m scrolling through the simplicity pattern website when, this is not a drill….

I saw House of the Dragon sewing patterns!!

Technically they’re not licensed or anything but if you know anything about sewing patterns for costumes, you know it gets pretty dang obvious.

Ok so it’s a pretty basic shape, and it looks like we’ve got an Alicent and a Rhaenyra dress based off of the styling of the models and the colours of the garments. They are not accurate to one single dress either of these characters wear, but it’s a great start, open to plenty of relatively easy modification (take this opinion with a grain of salt I have never modified a pattern) for creativity and maximum cosplay potential. I wish they’d make a Green Green Dress pattern, but I do know that designers and companies are limited to what pieces they can fit inside an envelope (this is the reason why in View B of Simplicity 1009 there isn’t a separate underskirt).

So let’s do some examination!

Starting with View B because it’s on the left, I said it looks like a Rhaenyra pattern mainly because of the color— young Rhae wears a lot of these dull golds (a desert gold if you will?) and beiges when she’s younger, when she’s not wearing red or her dragon-riding fits.

The neckline on the pattern could be easily adapted to either be higher like on the right or more angular like on the left.

The sleeves, however, are reminiscent of two other gowns, with these pattern pieces being good for both Rhae and Alicent.

I love a good open sleeve, and so do they. Also I swear there was another Alicent one with more open sleeves but google images was not kind to me.

Now on to View A! It’s pretty clear from how the neckline is with the trim plus the belt that this dress is modelled after this blue dress Alicent wears, which may or may not be her mother’s.

Now unfortunately the sleeve patterns do not have this amazing “ladder detail” but that would be pretty early to modify in, as well as to cut the neckline lower to add the top “ladder bit”.

This pattern also has Princess seams, like the other view, because it is a relatively simple way to get a good fit around the bust. Now, if you were making a “100% accurate with paper silk and I get the cops called on me because they think I stole it from HoTD’s wardrobe department” cosplay, these would have to be drafted out, because no dresses in the show have Princess seams, most likely because they are a relatively modern fitting technique and the shows in Westeros have historically influenced/inspired costuming. To get the fancy bodice like Alicent’s dress, the easiest way I could think of would be to trace the pattern piece twice, then chop one tracing up into sections with the sections being drawn on the other tracing (so you have a guide on how your puzzle fits together) and remember to include seam allowance if you do this, otherwise you will regret it.

Now this?? This is Daemon. Do not pass go, do not collect 200 dollars. Because most of the men on the show (or at least Daemon, Hardin when he’s not in armour defending his lady love— i mean Alicent, and Aemond) wear something similar to this, it’s a great bass with plenty to work with. The vest comes with pattern pieces for either no skirting or longer skirting, as seen in View B vs View A. Also, fun fact, the jacket under the vest/jerkin? It’s a crop top.

There’s a joke to be made here but I just can’t think of it.

These are McCalls patterns, and I have had fit issues in the past with them. Before picking out and cutting your size, I strongly recommend double checking the finished garment measurements, which should be printed on the back of the envelope. This will save you a lot of trouble and from having to buy the same pattern twice in case you cut out a size too small… I speak from personal experience.

Many way, that’s all folks! Personally, I can’t wait to see what Simplicity comes out with in the next few months (they release their new Halloween patterns in like September or something, and suffice to say I’m gnawing at my drywall), and I am praying for a Green Green dress pattern!

[intheorchards]

Just did a fitting of my Mantua mockup and realised I never posted a picture of my pink stays

They're too late in style for a Mantua... Technically but my only stays suitable for a Mantua are back lacing and spiral lacing up the back is the devil.

Basically been bringing out the mantua because Philip is so little I'm a bit scared of having a bunch of fabric, weights, and rotary cutters out on the floor to cut fabric for other things

Also I really ought to make a 'fitting' shift instead of using my night dresses 🤣

[tinolqa]

just thinking about it but outside of straight-up fitness/“wellness” culture some of the worst, most pervasive fatphobia I’ve personally encountered is in cosplay spaces

I know it’s gotten “better” in that it’s generally seen as vile to run a blog that exists to mock and body-shame cosplayers on here now, with that point of view being pushed back to 4chan.

And it’s gotten “better” in that people will talk up how ~cute~ a cosplayer is if they’re plus-sized but read as femme and are cosplaying a cute/very feminine character. The kind souls of twitter and tumblr will be nice if you’re (not too) fat and cosplaying Sakura Kinomoto or a Pokémon gijinka or a Ghibli heroine.

But somehow it really does not extend to anybody who is insufficiently feminine or who does not read as having a feminine body shape and outfit. Fat masc bodies, fat people who have facial hair, fat people who don’t cosplay cute/dehumanized characters or play up cosplaying as /existing/ fat characters… I don’t see positivity for that. Or kindness. I see the same disgust and derision that I saw a decade ago. Exclusion and de-emphasis and overall making the scene unwelcome.

It’s like… yeah wow decades of making fat masc people daring to have fun and dress up a punchline may have had an overall cultural chilling effect! How many fucking jokes about the Star Trek fandom center on that! How many jokes about LARP and Ren Faires and historical reenactors and conventions are just “haha, look at this fat piece of shit daring to have fun and wear clothing that isn’t a shapeless t-shirt and cargo shorts, I can’t believe he thinks he’s a person who should be looked upon!” Hearing that same joke for decades, getting that same message, most guys will just quash any desire to enjoy costume-related hobbies and wear the t-shirt and cargo shorts. There’s less opportunity for community, for positivity, for even change.

Makes me realize just why I dropped the hobby years ago. Sure, it was money (not enough spare income to spend on supplies or even going to events), it was time (I was lucky if I could get one day on a weekend off at most retail jobs, let alone three, and I had to hoard those days for getting sick), but damn if it wasn’t also feeling like a loathsome eyesore for having the audacity to be a male cosplayer who wasn’t even thin or the right kind of androgynous.

[cinematicct]

Moulin Rouge! (2001)

Directed by Baz Luhrmann, this jukebox musical film stars Nicole Kidman and Ewan McGregor as courtesan/star attraction Satine and poor writer Christian, respectively, in a story about truth, beauty, freedom, and love above all things.

The supporting cast includes: John Leguizamo (who performs on his knees to appear dwarf-sized) as French artist Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec, Jim Broadbent as Moulin Rouge owner Harold Zidler (loosely based on real-life Moulin Rouge founder Charles Zidler) and Richard Roxburgh as the Duke of Monroth.

Among the dazzling performances of a terrific cast, Nicole Kidman and Ewan McGregor both manage to add some extra sparkle to the screen as two lovers who come to realize their mutual relationship is greater than anything in the world.

The story takes place in 1899 Paris during the Bohemian movement. A nightly district of France is the Parisian neighborhood known as Montmartre, where artists, writers, performers and even visitors come together to mingle. The backgrounds are created in visually stunning (and painterly) detail since the film depicts a world of blissful entertainment as opposed to a historic setting, winning an Oscar for Best Art Direction (known today as Best Production Design).

The costumes (which won an Oscar in that category) enhance the bohemian underworld in terms of color and livelihood. Among the embroidered clothing, Nicole Kidman’s wardrobe stands out ranging from sequin outfits to proper evening gowns. It goes to show that while Satine is sensually desirable at the Moulin Rouge, she dresses appropriately after every performance.

However, apart from the debauchery, the Moulin Rouge also has a strict policy that prohibits the performer from falling in love with the customer and vice versa. Furthermore, Satine (later revealed to be diagnosed with tuberculosis) has been arranged to seduce a powerful, antagonistic Duke (who holds the deed to the Moulin Rouge) in exchange for the conversion of the Moulin Rouge into a theater. Christian on the other hand is determined to prove that love can overcome any obstacle by putting on a show.

But on top of all that, the actors’ singing draws you into the bewildering world of contemporary music against the whimsical backdrop of turn-of-the-century France. Every song contains an eclectic blend of modern pop, rock, techno and Broadway show tunes spanning the 20th century. What’s more, the can-can dancers are dubbed the “Diamond Dogs”. The track list includes both solo and medley renditions of: “Nature Boy”, “The Sound of Music”, “Children of the Revolution”, “Lady Marmalade”, “Because We Can”, “Smells Like Teen Spirit”, “Diamonds Are a Girl’s Best Friend”, “Material Girl”, “Rhythm of the Night”, “Your Song”, “One Day I’ll Fly Away”, “Górecki”, “Like a Virgin”, “Roxanne” and “The Show Must Go On”. The film also includes an original love theme (which serves as a secret yet powerful affirmation of love) titled “Come What May”, sung by Nicole Kidman and Ewan McGregor. In addition, a cover version of “Lady Marmalade” performed by P!nk, Mya, Lil’ Kim and Christina Aguilera is heard on the soundtrack. These songs not only reflect the intoxicating frenzy of a nightclub attraction, but they are reinterpreted as an act of creativity by a group of entertainers who appear to be ahead of their time.

Thanks to the visionary style of Baz Luhrmann, we see a groundbreaking spectacle of musicality. Plus, this particular story confirms that despite the complications of show business, the greatest thing ever is just to love and be loved in return. All that said, I recommend this enticing, original film to every lover and hater of musicals.