Hanfu movement is about MODERN ethnic clothing. What is the authentic “han” clothing? Who is going to decide for everyone? There are millions of Chinese around the world. Who could say something and everyone would follow? You? Me? The China government? Come on the moment China government said something it will be on the news that a totalitarian regime is mandating how people should dress.
Korean, Japan, Vietnam and England did not have such a tragic discontinuation of wearing their style when they all have their “modernization” period of pain. Also, have you considered the amount of Chinese involved in the situation? Also the geographical differences, the culture background and the resulted fashion preference of those people? Having only one (1) style of clothing actually is not the norm. Like the Dai people could have very different clothing depending on their villages. And the related Thai women in Thailand have at least... 7 different blouses? And those are modern invention too. Less than 100 years.
I live in a country where wearing traditional clothing, at least for women (pretty sure this is a relic from the colonialism period - men wore the European clothes while the women wore the ethnic clothes to show “fusion”, “respect” etc.), is very normal, even for work. For example, Indians. What is the traditional clothing of an Indian woman? A sari, you may say. But in my experience, most people don’t wear sari to work. I asked my teacher why. She said she did not like showing the waist. I only had one colleague who regularly wears Sari to work. But she is also a priest. Also I am quite sure that she only wears Sari when she is going to the temple on that day. What does the other wear usually? Usually they wear a tunic plus a trousers. There are many many many different types of tunic and I did not follow them. Each type of tunic are most likely came from different region (so the bottom to match is actually slightly different, but again, I did not follow). I remember back in high school, once they showed about 20 different types of Indian clothing, each from different regions, or different kingdoms historically. And that was put together by one (1) schoolmate. I am sure there is much more variants in Indian traditional clothing.
In addition, clothing from each dynasty reflected their characteristics. And modern Chinese needs something that reflect them. So why stick to a dynasty when you have so many to chose from? Looking back at different periods of time was also what people did back in the days (Ming dynasty), but they did not have the technology nor the archeological discoveries that we can access nowadays. Also people from different regions have different needs. Certain styles would be more prominent in certain regions. And those not suitable for people will fall into disuse. Like, quju was rather popular a decade ago, but only a handful of people are into it now, because the construction of the clothing does not match modern needs.
So forming a modern Han clothing is still an ongoing process. It has only been, like, 20 years? It takes time to come to a conscious. Many people just started to wear hanfu recently. It takes time to build up their taste and wardrobe. Historically, it took a few decades for Ming dynasty to settle into their own style. Chill. People will come to a conclusion. Give them time. Give yourself time.
If one don’t want to sit it up one could always wear the cheongsam. Even then there are so many different cuts to choose from. XP There is also non-cheongsam Chinese traditional clothing but people probably don’t recognize them and only really old grannies wear them nowadays. And most of them switched to buttons, at least in my region.
On the other hand, please consider cultivating your own social experience. And only hang out with friends or circles that decided on the style you also liked. I know there are people who are firmly focus on late late Ming style. There are also a lot of events and gatherings that are style-limited. YOU CAN MAKE YOUR OWN CALL. Don’t let the others decide for you. If you wear hanfu, you are one of the movement. Development your own circle if you like certain style. Consider becoming an influencer if you want people to follow your way. (Also, some people are only in for the money and know no shit about hanfu. So beware.)
Lastly, the online filter bubble is actually very strong if one picks the right people to follow. Like, a couple months ago I asked my friend what did she think about the fashion trend this year because I couldn’t see one. She said, definitely heziqun, especially for the newbies. For me, I have seen nearly zero news and updates on heziqun since Qinghuige time because I only followed a selection of people and bots on weibo. Since anyone wearing hanfu as daily wear for a few years knew heziqun is a recent invention (less than 3 years) as the whole structure is ridiculous and tedious to wear, so heziqun isn’t something those people would consider. Therefore I don’t see them on my dash. There were a couple of beidaiqun. Meh. Tang style is a wild place. Don’t go into Tang style if you want 100% historical accurate style. Or don’t even go into general hanfu fashion but only follow that handful of research and reconstruction blogs.
TLDR: There is no one that has the authenticity in Hanfu Movement to decide what specific style people should stick to. Make your own decision and hang out with people of like mind if you don’t want to see a variation of styles appearing in one place.
Rewriting the Saegen Folk, a Chinese-Viking Fusion Culture (WIP)
So, you've seen what cultures look like when they're DONE -- when multifarious stories could live in them. But what about when they're not?
Here's my Saegen culture. They were originally just German-ish Viking-esque peoples and they were BORINGGGGGG and also, I built this whole culture for a different world YEARSSSS ago and then imported it into Yssaia. And at this point, my interests have just shifted at this point and I want to add more of my Chinese heritage (from which, I am very distant but I am interested in getting back in touch!) So, let's start looking at a revamp, shall we?
So, the above is basically what I had from my old world. I mean, I also had a whole law codex that was the equivalent of Hammurabi's Code as well as a Nobility Etiquette Handbook and the start of a story that got re-molded and re-written... But yeah. Here's what we're working with.
I started with the fashion (because Fashion parameters = easier new character design) and reworked it... barely. A little.
As you can see, the men barely changed but women were more changed (also yes, something something, clothes don't have a gender, etc.) One of the biggest things that changed was they now have a hanfu-style undershirt.
But this was a few months ago and I think an aesthetic change isn't the actual problem here... the problem is that the culture doesn't have a good emotional core to which I relate AND the story I wrote about Ymver, their hero, just doesn't resonate with me anymore either.
SO let's start at the basics: Geography & geopolitics. As you can kinda see on the above map, they live near the artic and, in part, under the Upper Continent. Here's another (admittedly, sketchy) map to help illustrate:
That means it is cold and dark. The only sun they get is in the mornings and maybe evenings, with that sliver in Selkie Territory that also gets some sun. So, fashion-wise, I have the right idea with the furs and multiple layers. Food-wise, they're going to probably be pretty reliant on the ocean and that breadbaskety area, since Nouveau Thuille took the river valley... Unless...
Right now, in my head, Saegenheim is just a normal city with brownish pallisades around it... But what if it had underground agriculture? Underground agriculture with some kind of fungi that thrived in the Permafrost? What if there's a whole ecosystem built on these fungi with insects and semi-aquatic animals and such? Now there's an a city that sounds interesting...
A while back I started a story for a class that was loosely inspired by Saegenheim, where Demons were being murdered but no one cared because Demons... I feel like that could work even better with a vertical "class divide" in the city. Very Arcane upper-city, under-city...
You know who else has upper/under cities? Hoyoverse games -- Belobog and, very soon here, Fontaine.
And you know what I just started on? A pre-emptive Fontaine fix-it fanfic called "The Sunken City" lol... Maybe I should take some ideas from that for my Saegenheim re-write....
Also, with how close to the North things are, I think they must see the Endless Ice to the North of them as like... a holy relic of the God of Winter, Asarlai. And given that he is the Father of Humanity in their eyes -- and also, the source of their magic/Sages, it makes sense to live nearby...
So maybe the North Pole of Yssaia is just a giant Ysse Crystal... "Asarlai's Throne"
^^^ This is all just me spitballing from my analysis. Like, you saw, I LOOKED at what I had and then started going "What does this need next? What ideas are inspiring me right now?"
Also also, the Chinese influence is easy to see where it goes now: Chinese culture is a lot about respecting your place in society, respecting authority, the responsibilities of authority, and harmony. (Obviously, it is more complicated than that, but now it's time to go research more!) BUT the way I can still give them the individualism that is the downfall of the North is to have the focus be on families and villages, while being distrustful of Outsiders...
Now, I just gotta look into how the Chinese handled the cold historically and implement some of those techniques...
So now it's research time! But this post has gone on long enough with me rambling. More of this as I do more of this rewrite!
This translation is based on multiple MTLs and my own limited knowledge of Chinese characters. If I have made any egregious mistakes, please let me know.
Chapter Index
Chapter 14 - Lecture
For most people, it was just like any regular Monday afternoon. The temperature was high and there hadn't been any rain in over a week. A black Audi stopped at the entrance of the school's auditorium and really stood out. In the distance, he saw a big red banner at the entrance of the building: "A warm welcome to Professor Chen XX, appraisal researcher from the Palace Museum, for holding a cultural relic appraisal lecture in our school."
The auditorium had been recently built in the past few years. The entrance hall was very magnificent, with a light blue dome and wall, and the entire wall near the gate was made of glass. From the outside, he could see the crowds of people in the hall. Different from the usual modern style, the overall layout of the hall was more reminiscent of ancient designs. There were two large vases with impressions of a Ming Dynasty maid enjoying spring peaches. The promotional posters were framed by carved wooden windows. It was almost like walking into an antique shop.
The air-conditioning in the hall was turned too high and Lin Yan rubbed the goosebumps on his arms as he stood in the queue, staring at the posters to pass the time.
The professor on the poster looked like an unopened file folder, and even the reflection on his glasses looked like the transparent plastic wrapping paper on the file folder. Lin Yan was stumped, and then suddenly realized why he thought he looked so familiar. This person is the editor-in-chief of "Research on the History of Ming Dynasty Clothing". You could see his headshot when you turn to the first page of the textbook. It was said that he was quite famous in both professional research and folk antique auctions. He had probably seen him in a treasure appraisal program. Lin Yan recalled that he hadn't met him during the internship. Maybe because he had been an irrelevant excavation member.
On the other hand, why would someone ask him to participate in the excavation of a Ming Dynasty tomb?
"There are still 20 minutes before the doors open. Please wait patiently in the queue. Our staff will provide you with an introduction pamphlet for the event and free drinks." A sweet female voice came from the lobby intercom. Not far in front of Lin Yan, a tall boy who had been playing on a PSP with his head down turned his head and smiled wryly. He said to the person behind him: "The girl's voice is so sweet."
What's peculiar is that this person is wearing a modified Hanfu outfit, tailored to fit his body but with wide sleeves. With his pimples on his face and the PSP in his hand, he looked very strange. Lin Yan glanced around the room and was surprised to find that not only the PSP guy was dressed up, but many others had certain ancient style elements in their outfits. One girl even had her hair curled, and the ebony crested hairpiece swaying down by her sideburns.
Lin Yan stared, bored, outside the glass wall, and a familiar figure in a blue cloth robe caught his eye.
It was the little Daoist priest, squatting by the flowerbed not far away, feeding a lazy big yellow cat with some ham in his hand. The yellow cat curled up with a comfortable look, and his chubby figure resembled a large snail with a lot of privilege.
As soon as the little Daoist looked up, he saw Lin Yan beckoning to him. He threw the rest of the ham to the yellow cat in a hurry and ran into the hall with his schoolbag on his back. Lin Yan stepped out of line, and the cold surrounding him moved with him, although it seemed a little reluctant.
"At least A-Yan is a living person. You don't know how long you've been dead." Lin Yan couldn't help muttering. The series of events such as the exorcism and giving him talismans made Xiao Yu disgusted with this little Daoist priest. Every time in the past week that he had called A-Yan to ask about sending away spirits, well, his reaction was clear.
"Come here and wait." Lin Yan greeted the little Daoist priest who had just rushed into the hall. "It wasn't eating well, so I brought some ham for it." A-Yan was still holding half of the red plastic container in his hand. His face suddenly flushed red and he looked at Lin Yan with bright eyes.
His arm was squeezed by a cold hand and it pulled him away from the little Daoist priest. Lin Yan was already uncomfortably cold by the air conditioner, so he frowned and pushed down Xiao Yu's hand.
The lingering cold leaned against him, and abruptly shook against him. Lin Yan thought he must be really angry. When he looked up, he saw a group of students dressed in ancient costumes coming out of the golden gate of the auditorium. Unlike the people wearing the modified Hanfu costumes, these dozen or so people wore put-together Ming Dynasty outfits. Boys wore blue or white cloth with trimmed edges and silk scarves on their heads. Girls wore outer coats with gold and jade pendants and outer sleeves with beautiful embroidery. Some blouses and moonflower skirts were plainer for everyday Ming women, and some of them dressed as graceful ladies with big red sleeves. They each held a plate. There were small disposable paper cups inside, which the staff brought out to distribute.
Something wasn't right with Xiao Yu. His whole body was trembling against Lin Yan. Lin Yan was startled. He tried not to move his lips too much and asked him in a low voice, "Did you remember something?" Xiao Yu didn't answer, but Lin Yan remembered when he saw the ghost on the computer screen for the first time, he was not wearing a high hat at all, it was a futou.
"I'll take over, you guys go on break," a clear voice rang out. Lin Yan was shocked. A familiar figure stood in the staff's team, with short hair set against the various pieces of brocade. While distributing black tea, she turned around and laughed with her acquaintances. No matter how she changed her style, Lin Yan would never mistake that it was Weiwei.
Lin Yan wanted to lower his head and pretend that he hadn't seen her, but Weiwei had obviously noticed him. After a second of pause, Lin Yan called out and walked straight over to the buffet table. The colours of the rice farmer outfit she wore were interlaced and she was wearing very little makeup. There is a small Hetian seed around her neck, which is kind of chunky and stiff, which made a very natural look.
"Long time no see, are you here alone?" Weiwei smiled and handed a cup of black tea to Lin Yan. "Do you want to join us?"
Straightforward people like Weiwei never took embarrassing memories to heart. Lin Yan couldn’t do it. He always felt that he could never be friends with his past love affairs. Since they broke up, he did his best to avoid any situation where he might run into Weiwei, whether it was class reunions or birthdays, he always went with someone else. Of course, there were times he couldn't escape her, such as right now. Lin Yan reluctantly raised his head, forcing a laugh.
"No, no, I came with A-Yan." Lin Yan's face felt very hot, and he hurriedly pulled the little Daoist priest to hide behind.
Probably because of the little Daoist's strange reputation, Weiwei glanced at A-Yan in surprise. She quickly adjusted her expression, took a cup of black tea from the plate and handed it to A-Yan. She also gave Lin Yan two laminated pamphlets. Shee said: "This is the biggest activity of our club this semester. I have been busy preparing for more than two months. I'm losing my hair from how tired I am."
"Sounds great." Lin Yan's answer was a bit awkward.
"I hope you like it." She grinned.
A team of staff members rushed forward as they called her name. When they saw Weiwei and Lin Yan standing face to face without speaking, they began to mock: "Hey, is this the guy you used to go out with?" Shu Shengfu gave Lin Yan a once-over, shifting their gaze from the plaid shirt with good texture to the CK label on the jeans. He said, "You know how to pick the lookers. Such a nice little boy."
Weiwei didn't get angry. She simply turned around and said calmly: "What kind of look? This was the man I almost married. It doesn't matter what kind of person he is, he will marry into someone else's family." Everyone's face changed into realization in the shift of tone, and there was a wave of awkwardness. Shu Shengfu had a grimace on his face, and he pat Lin Yan on the shoulder. "So that's who you are. You had such an amazing girl get away from you. Too bad we don't have time to catch up" The words were addressed to Lin Yan, but his eyes kept staring at Weiwei.
Lin Yan smiled and said faintly: "If you want to know my methods, it'll be 100 yuan per lesson. Although you should look at my state now to see how it turns out."
There was another burst of laughter. Weiwei was a little embarrassed. She glared at Shu Shengfu and turned her face to Lin Yan and said with a straight face: "Don't pay attention to them, they're just fooling around. By the way, you two don't need to line up here. There are a few rows of seats reserved for the staff. We all have to be on duty at the door and can’t go in. It’ll be a pity for them to be empty, and it doesn't look good for the photos. Go sit there.” She pulled out two blue tickets from the bottom of the pamphlet tray, which were similar to those in Lin Yan's hand, except that there was a small yellow VIP logo in the upper right corner.
Lin Yan instinctively wanted to refuse, but when Weiwei said that there was a question-and-answer session in the lecture, she was too nervous to sit in the front row and talk directly with the professor. He clutched the pamphlet hesitantly but eventually accepted the tickets.
"However. . ." Lin Yan thought for a second: "I need three seats, can I?"
Weiwei glanced sharply at the girl behind Lin Yan. Lin Yan shook his head with a strange expression: "No, my friend hasn't come over yet."
Weiwei asked the girl next to her for a ticket, She seemed reluctant to ask, but she whispered: "Lin Yan, are you. . ."
A large group of well-dressed girls swarmed behind him, and the one who took the lead was surprised when she saw Weiwei, gesturing to the handsome guy that was in front of her. Weiwei glanced at Lin Yan helplessly. She wanted to say something, but Lin Yan suddenly interrupted her: "I'll go now if that's alright. My friends are still waiting for me."
A group of people huddled Weiwei and she continued to hand out drinks. She was a very social person. No matter where she went, people always flocked around her. Lin Yan was the opposite. Although Lin Yan was popular, he felt more at ease alone as opposed to being in the crowd every day. Lin Yan handed the three VIP seat tickets to the little Daoist priest, and the two walked along the red carpet to the staff seats together.
The backstage corridor was completely different from the front hall. The western-style decoration was magnificent. The gilded flowers float across the wall. After staring at them for a while, they seemed to jump off the wall. Lin Yan stroked the wallpaper with a finger, unsure of what to feel. He was a little embarrassed, a little nostalgic, he didn't know what expression he should wear. He wasn't sure what to do with himself.
His life shouldn’t be like this. Lin Yan looked up at the crystal chandelier on the ceiling. He had felt that the world was splitting apart when he and Weiwei broke up half a year ago. In a normal world, he and Weiwei would have been the ideal couple, standing at the door of their home together to welcome their guests. Here, he walked down the corridor alone in a daze, and fell into an abyss behind the main entrance of the lecture hall, falling endlessly to the ground.
The cold fingers touched the back of his hand. He held his wrist a little harder. His thumb slid into the palm of his hand and opened his fist, giving his hand a light squeeze. Lin Yan paused and sighed, his fingers curling back around the other's hand. It was as if holding Xiao Yu's hand was natural. It was cold, firm and slender, like holding a piece of porcelain. Xiao Yu turned around and wrapped Lin Yan's right hand in his palm. He didn't know why he suddenly felt so calm. He thought it was always good for someone to stand by him through the most embarrassing moments, regardless of whether or not that person had been dead for almost 500 years.
“披袄/ Pī ǎo” :is kind of formal wear. It is said began in the period of Cao Wei(曹魏)period, and was derived from Yiyi(祎衣). Mostly used in winter.
After the High Tang period, women's clothing became larger and larger, and developed into a very wide style in the middle and late period. At the same time, there are many special fashionable ways of dressing, such as opening the short jacket to become a cloak.
[Hanfu · 漢服]China Tang Dynasty Chinese Traditional Clothing Hanfu & Hairstyle Reference to Painted Female Figurines 【佳期阁-锦雀】
Ancient utensils used to cook tea in Tang dynasty unearthed in Famen temple, Shangxi province
1. 鎏金摩羯鱼银盐台
2. 鎏金飞鸿毬路纹银笼子
3. 飞天仙鹤纹茶罗子
4. 鎏金龟盒(BOX)
5. 鎏金人物画银香宝子
6. 金银丝结条笼子
7. 鎏金鸳鸯纹银茶碾子
8. 鎏金伎乐纹银香宝子
[Hanfu · 漢服]China Tang Dynasty Chinese Traditional Clothing Hanfu Photoshoots-【 唐宋煎茶道/Tang and Song Dynasties Cook Tea 】
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[History note about tea culture in Tang Dynasty]
Tea drinking flourished in the Tang Dynasty, from monks and laymen to emperors, all advocated drinking tea. Lu Yu (陆羽: Was a Chinese tea master and writer) expounded great detail the mainstream of tea drinking methods in the Tang Dynasty in "The Classic of Tea/ 茶经 ", and refined the picking, making and drinking of tea. Water, boiled water and decocted tea, and divide the tea into each tea bowl, so that the foam is evenly divided. This process requires a series of specialized tools. It is conceivable that in the Tang Dynasty, tea sets were complex and varied.
The tea set that use in this photoshoots is the imitation of the gilt and silver tea set used by the Tang Dynasty emperor unearthed in the underground palace of the pagoda of Famen Temple. This set of Tang Dynasty gold and silver utensils for cooking tea was mostly enshrined by Emperor Xizong of Tang (AD 873-888). It conclusively confirmed the existence of the imperial palace, court tea ceremony and tea culture in the Tang Dynasty, is also a testimony to the fashion and luxury of tea drinking at the court.